Maintenance Mega Thread!

[nickysneids]

3 hours ago, travsformation said:

Wow, excellent idea for a thread, @nickysneids! Very comprehensive, thanks for taking the time to compile this!

For now, the only additions I can think are:

Tires:

• Sliming one's tires: Guide by Marty

Waterproofing:

• Spraying dielectric spray on charging port, USB ports, power button and, if one is so inclined to do so, connectors/electronics inside the wheel

Thanks for the info! I'll add that in. Do you have any recommendations on the dielectric spray you have used or know of? I'll find a buy option an provide a link.

Edited May 11, 2020 by nickysneids

[travsformation]

1 hour ago, nickysneids said:

Thanks for the info! I'll add that in. Do you have any recommendations on the dielectric spray you have used or know of? I'll find a buy option an provide a link.

I bought mine on Amazon Spain (can't find it on Amazon.com), it's Nanoprotech's liquid electrical insulation. I bought it based on the reviews stating that, unlike some other dielectric sprays, it was non-corrosive to plastics and seemed to permeate well without being greasy. The closest thing I could find on amazon.com was CRC's Contact Cleaner and Protectant, which seems to be very similar in that it's non-greasy, and claims to be non-corrosive, but there are a few reviews stating it can be corrosive to certain plastics, so it's worth using with care.

[nickysneids]

19 minutes ago, travsformation said:

I bought mine on Amazon Spain (can't find it on Amazon.com), it's Nanoprotech's liquid electrical insulation. I bought it based on the reviews stating that, unlike some other dielectric sprays, it was non-corrosive to plastics and seemed to permeate well without being greasy. The closest thing I could find on amazon.com was CRC's Contact Cleaner and Protectant, which seems to be very similar in that it's non-greasy, and claims to be non-corrosive, but there are a few reviews stating it can be corrosive to certain plastics, so it's worth using with care.

Thanks for the links, I found the Nanoprotechs insulator on Ebay but it was kinda hard to find! (Here's the link)

[Legend27]

I would probably not recommend to use Tube Sealant from Slime in your tubes. I would look for alternatives.

I have been in contact with Slime and have gotten confirmed that the sealant can damage unfinished rims which most of our EUC's are. I'll throw in the email for you to read the answer yourself  

I use the Tube Sealant myself and have notice the my rim has gotten slight discoloration some places.

This is the sealant I contacted slime about: https://shop.slime.com/collections/tube-and-tubeless-sealants/products/tube-sealant-16-oz-2-bikes?variant=45263496904&fbclid=IwAR0BDJZq59G7pbmpP3otN4enjKMHQodl45-aFxXIUsGv1ef1CnC58_OLnWM

Here is an example of how bad it can get. It's not an EUC, but the rim is made of aluminium like most of our rims.

 

[travsformation]

1 hour ago, Legend27 said:

I would probably not recommend to use Tube Sealant from Slime in your tubes. I would look for alternatives.

Eating away at the aluminum...wow! But that must be from direct, long-term contact with the rim, inside the tubeless tire of a motorcycle, right?

On an EUC, as the Slime PR said, the slime is contained within the inner tube, and punctures would be either on the outside or sidewalls, so any slime seeping out of the inner tube would probably barely protrude outside the puncture hole and then dry up; or be trapped between the inner tube and the interior side of the tire, so I don't see much reason for concern. 

If it were a bursted tire, a snakebite, a slit tire...that's a different story...I doubt many people would just leave it like that for long enough for it to do any damage to the rim, but it's good to know that if you use slime and your tube bursts/slits, etc., it's a good idea to remove the tire and tube and clean the rim as soon as possible. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Legend27]

16 minutes ago, travsformation said:

But that must be from direct, long-term contact with the rim, inside the tubeless tire of a motorcycle, right?

I don't think this specific case was a tubeless tire. I think it was a tire with a tube that had slime in it. That would at least make the most sense to me, as otherwise I don't see how they could have used the wheel without the rim already being completely eaten up.

However I can confirm that it does affect our rims. I've uploaded a photo of my rim. It has some discoloration quite a lot of places. Like you said, I also think it must be in long-term contact with the rim before it starts to eat away the aluminium. No idea how it has gotten to my rim though, but it happen.

Should probably mention that I can't confirm 100% it has been caused by the slime, but I don't see any other options.

 

[.....]

Ive been using dielectric grease on connections for ages. I just buy a tube of it every 10-15yrs, from napa. I typically put it in the female ends of connectors and it spreads when you connect them together. I've also been known to use it on the connector shell itself. It gets used on cars, bike, trucks, audio gear and euc's. I've never tried a spray, so I cant comment on it.

A thick solution of dish soap and water, makes a great rim lube when mounting tires.

Some valve core tools are made as valve caps, should you want to store it on your euc.

McGuires Scratch X, makes a great polish to freshen up white shells.

Aluminum can strips can be used to tighten up pedal rods holes.

Blue loc-tite (or equivalent) thread locker is your friend (or enemy if you use it in the wrong places)

Let your unicycle dry right side up and be mindful of compressed air. Sensitive electronics are typically at a higher point.

Tires with less tread are more prone to puncture.

Let your batteries cool from use before recharging if possible and vice versa.

Ride baby Ride. An unused wheel for long extended periods, is similar to letting a car sit. Not good for the battery or for moving parts.

DO NOT use thread locker liquids near plastics unless specifically designed for it... You have been warned.

 

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by ShanesPlanet
added loctite warning

[nickysneids]

On 5/15/2020 at 9:24 PM, ShanesPlanet said:

Ive been using dielectric grease on connections for ages. I just buy a tube of it every 10-15yrs, from napa. I typically put it in the female ends of connectors and it spreads when you connect them together. I've also been known to use it on the connector shell itself. It gets used on cars, bike, trucks, audio gear and euc's. I've never tried a spray, so I cant comment on it.

A thick solution of dish soap and water, makes a great rim lube when mounting tires.

Some valve core tools are made as valve caps, should you want to store it on your euc.

McGuires Scratch X, makes a great polish to freshen up white shells.

Aluminum can strips can be used to tighten up pedal rods holes.

Blue loc-tite (or equivalent) thread locker is your friend (or enemy if you use it in the wrong places)

Let your unicycle dry right side up and be mindful of compressed air. Sensitive electronics are typically at a higher point.

Tires with less tread are more prone to puncture.

Let your batteries cool from use before recharging if possible and vice versa.

Ride baby Ride. An unused wheel for long extended periods, is similar to letting a car sit. Not good for the battery or for moving parts.

DO NOT use thread locker liquids near plastics unless specifically designed for it... You have been warned.

Thanks for all of the tips! I'll integrate into the main thread in a bit.

[Boogieman]

Was about time to replace the tyre, 4000km does take its toll when you mount 95Kg driver on a tiny bicycle tyre :-) (tesla original 2.125" cheng shin) but on goes a seemingly slightly more narrow 2.125 Kenda (its more narrow if i flatten the "wear area") so im guessing i will go from "turn on a dime" to "turn on a needle head" (but with even more wobbles :-) )