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EUC

Found 10 results

  1. 2 KingSong 18XL Batteries *USED* l 84v Moving need them gone ASAP. Please send offers, can go together or separately. 714.348.9962 text/call or email listed below. Mbrittany7217@gmail.com Ty!
  2. With winter coming on I am curious if anyone has ever tested how much power/range is lost when the temperature is below freezing. Does anyone know of a range test that was done in warm weather and then again in cold? Is it a minor difference (like 5%) or a major difference (like 25%)?
  3. Hi all! I'm coming up on the ~2,000 mile mark on my MCM5 and I think it's about time to do a serious sweep through of the wheel to make sure everything checks out as it should. I had the idea to do this and create a thread that can be a sort of go to for other members looking to check out their wheels, but it's also to help me understand a few things I'm not sure of. The goal here is to allocate all of the information associated with wheel maintenance so that it saves everyone lots of time when it's their turn to do the same! Keep in mind that this is a work in progress and will undergo many formatting changes and additions to the info found here. A lot of what you'll find has been taken from info supplied by other people and keep in mind that everything you read is probably not supplied by an expert, although there's bound to be a bunch of info that is! Tire Replacement/Maintenance The Tire/Tyre Sizing Guide! [Pulled from the Tyre Thread made by @Smoother ] Additional Tire Resources Fixing a "Hop" in your Ride, turning the tire to face the right direction, and verifying the bead is properly seated - Thanks to @ShanesPlanet The Tire Slime Guide! - @Marty Backe THE Tyre Thread with tons of info on tires courtesy of @Smoother The Complete Bike Tire Size Guide also found in the above thread thanks to @Smoother Repairing an MSX without replacing the wheel! Entirely in french but some decent info courtesy of @stephen Snow Chains?! - @tudordewolf Cracks in shell, new shell strip placements? Link I used for MCM5 disassembly Battery Testing! Some basic troubleshooting steps if you think you may have battery issues or just want to check out how your batteries are doing! If using an app to check our your voltage other settings, make sure the app is set to your wheels proper specs. I made this mistake and its a simple check! Using a multi-meter (linked below), check to make sure your charger is outputting the advertised voltage! Copied from a post below (credit to Chriull & Raging Grandpa)... First check the charger no load voltage. Then the fully loaded battery output voltage (to act as a... control of the voltage measurement on the mainboard). If this is ok it ought to be one of the battery packs. Separate the packs and try to charge them individually - in most cases only one is bad. To do this, unplug and charge up one of the packs. Then test. Do the same for the other! Replace the bad one with a new one - and ensure they have as good as the same voltage when reconnecting! If one is experienced enough one can replace the bad cells of the bad one instead of getting a new one. But since one most presumably has no possibility to do proper cell matching this repaired pack will not last as long. But it will be much cheaper... (see the link on testing out different cells below for more info) Description of BMS & Battery relationships "It's slightly more complicated: your BMS ("Battery Management System," a circuitboard contained in the pack) is detecting that some cells are 'full' and is stopping the charging event. When this happens, the indicator light on your charger will go 'green' - but the pack voltage never got near 84V." - RagingGrandpa How to replace a battery pack! "(Pack replacement)..It's quite simple- the pack is a module that can be unplugged from the EUC. Plug in new pack, close up the plastics, done" - RagingGrandpa Testing out difference cells... "If this is all brand-new to you, I don't recommend doing it... save yourself a few skin burns. But to answer your question: we suspect you have some cells at 0V. To confirm it, you would need to measure the voltage of each cell... but in all cases, pack replacement is the answer." - RagingGrandpa A thread that goes into much more depth or testing different cells Supplies needed/Voltage Tester Etekcity MSR-R500 Multi-meter recommend as an entry level and budget friendly option by RagingGrandpa Flukes Digital Multi-meters recommended by a (mechanic?) as a higher end very reliable option - ShanesPlanet This thread goes into the dos and don'ts of using multi-meters! -Chriull Where to sell old battery cells/any other old or damaged parts? "Or better yet, leave it alone and sell the whole damaged pack "for parts" in our classifieds here." - RagingGrandpa Water Proofing Spraying dielectric spray on charging port, USB ports, power button and, if one is so inclined to do so, connectors/electronics inside the wheel - @travsformation Recommended Dielectric Spray - Thanks to @travsformation Supplies [Thinking something similar to the Badger Kit for the OneWheel?] Guide Pedal Replacement? Grip Tape Replacement? What else?
  4. Courtesy Wired and their sister pub Ars Technica: The long-term goal is high-energy EVs, but the first stop will be small devices. By this time next year, Berdichevsky plans to have the first lithium-silicon batteries in consumer electronics, which he says will make them last 20 percent longer per charge.
  5. Hobby Wheel Gadget Factory is proud to present the "Charge Doctor", specifically designed to survey the monowheels' batteries. It's in fact an off-the-shelf USB charge monitor I have hacked and reprogrammed for our use. Specifications Voltage 40.0V - 80.0V Current 0.00 - 3.00A mAh-meter 0-19999 mAh Energy meter 0-999.9 Wh Serial data output for logging at 9600 bauds TTL levels With 3-pin GX16 connectors compatible with Airwheel & clones, TG, iezWay, Gotway, Firewheel... (not on Ninebot One with a different charge plug) Plug & play Price 15€ + 4€ international shipping = 19€, Paypal payment to User instructions First line: voltage and current. Second line: total charge in mAh or Wh, click pushbutton (PB) to alternate between mAh and Wh. Hold PB for 2 s to reset the total charge. PB also enables calibration of the Charge Doctor (see below). Data logger Charge Doctor sends out data every 10s in ascii line format with ',' separator, at 9600 bauds, TTL level Line format: Time (seconds), voltage (0.1V), current (10mA), Wh (0.1Wh) Example: 590,596,193,183 <=> 590seconds, 59.6V, 1.93A, 18.3Wh Data are sent to a PC, MAC or Linux using TTL serial-USB converter dongle (cost < 2 $) and a terminal emulator for disk storage or graphic display (see below for a setup example). Look up "CP2102 USB converter" or "CH340G USB converter" on eBay (avoid PL2303HX chip based dongles which work fine but rather pricky when installing driver). Calibration Voltage is factory (ie by me) calibrated at +-20mV and current at +-2mA. Recalibrate when necessary only if you have an accurate multimeter. Press & hold the pushbutton (PB) for more than 6 s when the second counter is at the corresponding number : 1: decrease voltage gain (about 0,02V per PB click, so you must click 5x to see the number change) 2: increase voltage gain 3: decrease current gain (about 2mA per click) 4: increase current gain 5: reset current offset = 0 (no load) The variable to be calibrated flashes and the change direction is indicated by the display's up or down arrows. The calibration mode ends after 10s of no PB click. Lastest batch of Charge Doctors. Thank you Ironfox for being the first international buyer and for ordering 4 (four !) of them. Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1676.jpg Charge Doctor display, charging a 260Wh empty battery. 1) beginning: V=60.2V, I=2.11A, Charge=29.1Wh 2) near end: V=67.1V, I=0.4A, Charge=230.8Wh 3) end of charge: V=67.1V, I=0.0A, Charge=243.4Wh Notice that it's a generic wheel (TG) battery with Chinese cells, so total charge is only only 243.4Wh, the nameplate "260 Wh capacity" cannot be reached. On the Firewheel 260Wh, with Panasonic cells, I can charge up to 285 Wh. Charge Doctor - PC link using a Serial-USB converter dongle, data logging by terminal emulator puTTY. Only two connexions of the dongle are used: 0V and RxD Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1580.jpg Serial link : blue=0V, orange=Transmit (connect to dongle's RxD) Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1582.jpg More images on the French forum : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/ftopic1000-0.html
  6. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
  7. I am relatively new to the EUC world (1st post). After my Airwheel X8 bit the dust (battery issues), I bought an KS16S recently and, in general, I am very happy with it. That said, I have not super thrilled with the way the KS computes Battery%. I have one of those rapid chargers that ewheels sells and, basically, the KS app was reporting that the battery was being charged to 100% no matter what settings I put the charger on (two knobs: 1/2/3/4,/ Amps, 80%/90%/100% Charge). Fearing that my charger was not functioning properly and being an engineer, I started collecting and plotting data from the KS App. What I found is that the KS app has a stupidly simplistic formula for going from Voltage to Battery% Charge; >65V 100%. <65v use following linear formula: <65v Batttery% = 0.0666 * BatteryVoltage - 3.33 This is the data taken over about 1000km so I don't think this is a fluke or an unrepresentative data set. If you look at the chart below (or the data below that if you want to do your own curve fit) you can see that the linear fit is beyond doubt; This is how KS is internally computing battery voltage. I don't particularly like this method because it muddles the water with respect to using the ewheels charger as a means to extend my battery life (which is my reason for using that charger -- I don't need the faster charge times, I just want my commuter wheel to go a 2-4X longer before needing a new battery). But at least with this data, I can see that the ewheels charge is doing what it is supposed to do (stop charging at less than 100% charge). So... Yay ewheels? FWIW Data battery% batteryV 98% 64.65 52% 57.83 60% 58.95 99% 64.87 51% 57.58 99% 64.86 57% 58.52 98% 64.68 85% 62.73 31% 54.71 99% 64.87 77% 61.56 42% 56.36 98% 64.74 59% 58.92 35% 55.24 99% 64.84 64% 59.65 99% 64.88 51% 57.71 99% 64.8 8% 51.23 99% 64.91 53% 58.00 99% 64.90 73% 60.94 37% 55.52 100% 66.32 81% 62.14 49% 57.39 98% 64.75 72% 60.83 53% 57.96 28% 54.13 100% 67.83
  8. Interesting synopsis on the history of battery tech...
  9. Since the Tesla side panels open with only 4 screws, I got to thinking: what would it take to charge an extra couple of battery packs, separately from the unicycle? For many use cases, this approach cures a lot of range anxiety associated with the Tesla, without adding weight to the main unit. For example, I might charge batteries at a friendly coffee shop, while draining the installed set by exploring the city. When I run low on juice, just come back for quick swap—back in business. I think it’s just a matter of finding the right adaptors to plug your charger into the battery packs. Does anyone know what parts I would need to accomplish this? Moreover, you could use those newly-freed large capacity battery packs for other things: like charging your laptop, phone, etc. I expect you’d need another adapter for this. Any insight, friends?
  10. https://worldbicyclerelief.org/en/ and there are many other similar bicycle-oriented humanitarian efforts. but we all know, here at least, which of the two to go with instead of wringing his panties along with putin over the AI apocalypse, mr. musk should devote part of his efforts, since batteries are a huge part of his game, to the development and permeation of awesome eucs and charging centers throughout the world!
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