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EUC

Found 16 results

  1. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
  2. I am relatively new to the EUC world (1st post). After my Airwheel X8 bit the dust (battery issues), I bought an KS16S recently and, in general, I am very happy with it. That said, I have not super thrilled with the way the KS computes Battery%. I have one of those rapid chargers that ewheels sells and, basically, the KS app was reporting that the battery was being charged to 100% no matter what settings I put the charger on (two knobs: 1/2/3/4,/ Amps, 80%/90%/100% Charge). Fearing that my charger was not functioning properly and being an engineer, I started collecting and plotting data from the KS App. What I found is that the KS app has a stupidly simplistic formula for going from Voltage to Battery% Charge; >65V 100%. <65v use following linear formula: <65v Batttery% = 0.0666 * BatteryVoltage - 3.33 This is the data taken over about 1000km so I don't think this is a fluke or an unrepresentative data set. If you look at the chart below (or the data below that if you want to do your own curve fit) you can see that the linear fit is beyond doubt; This is how KS is internally computing battery voltage. I don't particularly like this method because it muddles the water with respect to using the ewheels charger as a means to extend my battery life (which is my reason for using that charger -- I don't need the faster charge times, I just want my commuter wheel to go a 2-4X longer before needing a new battery). But at least with this data, I can see that the ewheels charge is doing what it is supposed to do (stop charging at less than 100% charge). So... Yay ewheels? FWIW Data battery% batteryV 98% 64.65 52% 57.83 60% 58.95 99% 64.87 51% 57.58 99% 64.86 57% 58.52 98% 64.68 85% 62.73 31% 54.71 99% 64.87 77% 61.56 42% 56.36 98% 64.74 59% 58.92 35% 55.24 99% 64.84 64% 59.65 99% 64.88 51% 57.71 99% 64.8 8% 51.23 99% 64.91 53% 58.00 99% 64.90 73% 60.94 37% 55.52 100% 66.32 81% 62.14 49% 57.39 98% 64.75 72% 60.83 53% 57.96 28% 54.13 100% 67.83
  3. Interesting synopsis on the history of battery tech...
  4. Since the Tesla side panels open with only 4 screws, I got to thinking: what would it take to charge an extra couple of battery packs, separately from the unicycle? For many use cases, this approach cures a lot of range anxiety associated with the Tesla, without adding weight to the main unit. For example, I might charge batteries at a friendly coffee shop, while draining the installed set by exploring the city. When I run low on juice, just come back for quick swap—back in business. I think it’s just a matter of finding the right adaptors to plug your charger into the battery packs. Does anyone know what parts I would need to accomplish this? Moreover, you could use those newly-freed large capacity battery packs for other things: like charging your laptop, phone, etc. I expect you’d need another adapter for this. Any insight, friends?
  5. https://worldbicyclerelief.org/en/ and there are many other similar bicycle-oriented humanitarian efforts. but we all know, here at least, which of the two to go with instead of wringing his panties along with putin over the AI apocalypse, mr. musk should devote part of his efforts, since batteries are a huge part of his game, to the development and permeation of awesome eucs and charging centers throughout the world!
  6. Cheaper, 3 times more energy dense, unaffected by extreme weather, and longer cycle life? They need to implement these ASAP! https://hypebeast.com/2017/3/john-b-goodenough-glass-battery The 94-Year-Old Inventor of the Lithium-Ion Battery Has Come up With the Next Great Battery Design The efficient, low-cost creation could be the next major breakthrough for electric cars. By T.S. Fox · Mar 8, 2017 in Tech · 12 Comments 475Shares Known for his role in the development of the lithium-ion battery, John B. Goodenough — now an emeritus professor at the Cockrell School of Engineering at the University of Texas, Austin — has come up with what may be the next major battery-related breakthrough: a tiny all-glass design. Developed by Goodenough and senior fellow Maria Helena Braga alongside a team of researchers, the new low-cost, solid-state design is both safer and more efficient than its predecessor thanks to its use of a sodium- or lithium-coated glass electrolyte — one that can store three times as much power as a lithium-ion alternative. Best of all, though, is that the battery can withstand extreme temperatures, charge in just minutes, and offers more than 1,200 charge-discharge cycles — meaning it will last significantly longer than a lithium-ion battery. And the glass design isn’t only cheaper and more efficient — it’s safer, too. Since it doesn’t form the dendrites that accumulate with a lithium-ion battery’s charge-discharge cycle, the glass battery won’t short circuit or burn — a problem that ultimately plagues its lithium-ion counterpart. Ultimately, the technology could be used to store energy from the likes of wind and solar systems and also make electric cars infinitely safer and more affordable. “Cost, safety, energy density, rates of charge and discharge and cycle life are critical for battery-driven cars to be more widely adopted. We believe our discovery solves many of the problems that are inherent in today’s batteries,” said Goodenough.
  7. On the last week of December I drove my fully charged KS16 (840Wh, fw 1.23) for a 4.3 km (2.7mi) to have a drink with my friends. BTW everything happened outside. That evening it was -4 degrees Celsius (24.8 degrees Fahrenheit). In no time four hours passed by - enough for batteries to cool down. On a way home the wheel was performing as usual. Despite the cold it had no problems with inclines and I am 88kg (194 pounds). Half way back I was riding full speed (29-30km/h) on a flat road when I accidently drove into the small hole. The wheel immediately stopped balancing and I crashed hard. Aftermath could be much worse: Few scratches, broken shoulder and ongoing physiotherapy. I have good chances for full recovery in a year time. I could have: predicted the batteries will not perform and drive slower, taken my headlight with me and avoid the small hole, gone with the car, but I did not. I am sorry. I hope my experience can prevent an accident or two.
  8. My hoverboard has 16 (18650) batteries. Is there a good charger that has auto shutoff like the ones used in RC and a battery balance? Most I have seen have a 6 cell limit.
  9. I have a hoverboard with 10" wheels. It has a battery pack with 36v/4.4ah (battery model: ICR18650-20P CHINA DS). I want to upgrade, since the batteries are failing (cheap). I want to replace them with quality 3.7 9800 mAh 18650. Has anyone done this and do you use the same charging cord? I can provide pics if you need to see the hoverboard.
  10. I have just one more pre-purchase question (before I order an IPS 191)... Are they usually assembled with good quality batteries (from Japan / Korea)? And if they have Chinese batteries as standard, is there a "high quality" replacement option?
  11. Hobby Wheel Gadget Factory is proud to present the "Charge Doctor", specifically designed to survey the monowheels' batteries. It's in fact an off-the-shelf USB charge monitor I have hacked and reprogrammed for our use. Specifications Voltage 40.0V - 80.0V Current 0.00 - 3.00A mAh-meter 0-19999 mAh Energy meter 0-999.9 Wh Serial data output for logging at 9600 bauds TTL levels With 3-pin GX16 connectors compatible with Airwheel & clones, TG, iezWay, Gotway, Firewheel... (not on Ninebot One with a different charge plug) Plug & play Price 15€ + 4€ international shipping = 19€, Paypal payment to User instructions First line: voltage and current. Second line: total charge in mAh or Wh, click pushbutton (PB) to alternate between mAh and Wh. Hold PB for 2 s to reset the total charge. PB also enables calibration of the Charge Doctor (see below). Data logger Charge Doctor sends out data every 10s in ascii line format with ',' separator, at 9600 bauds, TTL level Line format: Time (seconds), voltage (0.1V), current (10mA), Wh (0.1Wh) Example: 590,596,193,183 <=> 590seconds, 59.6V, 1.93A, 18.3Wh Data are sent to a PC, MAC or Linux using TTL serial-USB converter dongle (cost < 2 $) and a terminal emulator for disk storage or graphic display (see below for a setup example). Look up "CP2102 USB converter" or "CH340G USB converter" on eBay (avoid PL2303HX chip based dongles which work fine but rather pricky when installing driver). Calibration Voltage is factory (ie by me) calibrated at +-20mV and current at +-2mA. Recalibrate when necessary only if you have an accurate multimeter. Press & hold the pushbutton (PB) for more than 6 s when the second counter is at the corresponding number : 1: decrease voltage gain (about 0,02V per PB click, so you must click 5x to see the number change) 2: increase voltage gain 3: decrease current gain (about 2mA per click) 4: increase current gain 5: reset current offset = 0 (no load) The variable to be calibrated flashes and the change direction is indicated by the display's up or down arrows. The calibration mode ends after 10s of no PB click. Lastest batch of Charge Doctors. Thank you Ironfox for being the first international buyer and for ordering 4 (four !) of them. Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1676.jpg Charge Doctor display, charging a 260Wh empty battery. 1) beginning: V=60.2V, I=2.11A, Charge=29.1Wh 2) near end: V=67.1V, I=0.4A, Charge=230.8Wh 3) end of charge: V=67.1V, I=0.0A, Charge=243.4Wh Notice that it's a generic wheel (TG) battery with Chinese cells, so total charge is only only 243.4Wh, the nameplate "260 Wh capacity" cannot be reached. On the Firewheel 260Wh, with Panasonic cells, I can charge up to 285 Wh. Charge Doctor - PC link using a Serial-USB converter dongle, data logging by terminal emulator puTTY. Only two connexions of the dongle are used: 0V and RxD Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1580.jpg Serial link : blue=0V, orange=Transmit (connect to dongle's RxD) Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1582.jpg More images on the French forum : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/ftopic1000-0.html
  12. Hi all , I needed to increase the really poor range of my generic chinese EUC so I decided for the cheapest way that was adding one more battery to it . It's a 350W motor and originally mounted a 132 w/h and I bought on Aliexpress an equal one -obviously with its BMS- , so now I'm having 264 w/h , still not too mutch but for my entry level EUC will be good. This is my first EUC so next will be a more powerfull one ! I wanted to share with you my mod , which consisted mainly in finding suitable space for the new battery . Firstly I was convinced I would have found place just over the original mounting one , but once I had the new battery in my hands I realized it was impossible . Original Side Covers could be used but one of the two did not stay perfectly closed so at the end I had to prepare and mount a new side cover . I think, after the tests , I will seal the Covers in order to avoid any possible rain/water infiltration .
  13. When do you recharge your Ninebot one? I have an e+. Should I wait to 10% to get the longest battery life? Am I risking shot off do to low power? If I recharges at 45% every time and the battery had I hypothetical 100 cycle life would I get 222 charge cycles? Doe it work something like this? If not how does it?
  14. Is there a reason why it seems just Gotway and King Song sell electric unicycles with big battery packs in them? (granting the euc a long travel distance range) Why are the other manufacturers (Solowheel, Ninebot, IPS, Airwheel, etc.) not installing batteries bigger than the 300's Wh? For me range is top priority, top speed is secondary. I'm sure I'm not the only one. The other manufacturers need to step it up!
  15. I read that batteries should be charged until the 'red' light turns 'green' on the charger then up to another 15 mins optimally! Can anyone shed some light on this recommendation - does excessive charging damage batteries? I connect and turn on, set timer for 50 mins, check 'light' and usually set timer for another 15 mins. If the light is 'green' I unplug [usually], if not another 15 mins. I can't tell whether the light changed a minute after setting the timer or 14 mins!! Don't suppose there is a charger monitor?
  16. Not directly EU related, but interesting because such a high profile project is set back by Lipo reliability issues. http://www.pv-magazine.com/news/details/beitrag/solar-impulse-grounded-following-irreversible-battery-damage_100020176/#axzz3fnwd0h3g Those touchy Lipo packs became slightly overheated, now the plane is grounded until August. The best Li-ion 18650s possess the same energy density as these, but the project was probably planned years earlier & the design decision made.
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