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how to avoid sparks when connecting xt60 connectors?


Shad0z
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so i will be getting a new control board for my euc. but since its new the capacitors on the board will not be charged.. is there any way i can charge them? so the xt60 connectors doesnt make a huge spark?

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I used powerful resistors !

As I added to existing capacitors, I added 4x 12000mf  capacitors . In this form, there would be no other way to connect ! :D

( There is a lot of help with aggressive riding on the terrain .In the case of sudden obstacles, the voltage drop is much much lower .)

First, connect through a powerful resistor and wait until the heat in them disappears and only then connect directly !

( I added in parallel the connectors for the resistors )

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18 minutes ago, Raptor said:

I used powerful resistors !

As I added to existing capacitors, I added 4x 12000mf  capacitors . In this form, there would be no other way to connect ! :D

( There is a lot of help with aggressive riding on the terrain .In the case of sudden obstacles, the voltage drop is much much lower .)

First, connect through a powerful resistor and wait until the heat in them disappears and only then connect directly !

( I added in parallel the connectors for the resistors )

Hy Raptor,

Do you have some photos of your capacitor mod?

And then, does it do something to the riding? Or is there just a bit less voltage drop?

I would be happy to learn more....

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21 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

I have changed out new ACM boards 2x and disconnected and reconnected the same boards 5xs during mods. The 1st time was a learning experience and did result in a burnt hand. Once I learned the proper sequence there was never an issue.

You need to connect both battery packs first (no particular sequence) before attempting to connect the packs to the mainboard. During this connection you need to be deliberate (ie: quickly push the male/female connectors together). A spark is generated even if the board capacitors are charged so that is not an issue. If you slowly  insert the 2 connectors together  there will be a larger arc as the electrons jump from one post to the other much like an arc welder. If you quickly insert the connectors a spark will be heard as minimal pop but that’s it.  No cascading of sparks or fireworks. Wear leather gloves if you are concerned. 

I did switch out the XL60s to the XL90 spark arrestor version at a later date but it is not necessary if you don’t plan on performing reconnecting the terminals on a regular basis.  The small sparks emitted during countless reconnections will begin to erode the contacts overtime. The RC industry uses the XL90 spark arrestors all of the time being their packs are  disconnected and reconnected on a regular basis. 

do you have a video? i need a  little more step by step...

 

 

and this part i dont understand...  

"You need to connect both battery packs first"   then after that you say:   "before attempting to connect the packs to the mainboard"

 

connect the batteries.. before conecting the batteries... :blink1: i think i misunderstood something..

2 hours ago, Raptor said:

I used powerful resistors !

As I added to existing capacitors, I added 4x 12000mf  capacitors . In this form, there would be no other way to connect ! :D

( There is a lot of help with aggressive riding on the terrain .In the case of sudden obstacles, the voltage drop is much much lower .)

First, connect through a powerful resistor and wait until the heat in them disappears and only then connect directly !

( I added in parallel the connectors for the resistors )

sounds interesting.. pictures or what resisitors to use and how to install and how to do it?

Edited by Shad0z
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53 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

You need to connect both battery packs first (no particular sequence) before attempting to connect the packs to the mainboard. During this connection you need to be deliberate (ie: quickly push the male/female connectors together). A spark is generated even if the board capacitors are charged so that is not an issue. If you slowly  insert the 2 connectors together  there will be a larger arc as the electrons jump from one post to the other much like an arc welder. If you quickly insert the connectors a spark will be heard as minimal pop but that’s it.  No cascading of sparks or fireworks. Wear leather gloves if you are concerned. 

Good Explanation! Exactly like this i do it on all my maintenance checks....small "Pop" but never any burning spark :-)

 

41 minutes ago, Shad0z said:

connect the batteries.. before conecting the batteries... :blink1: i think i misunderstood something..

He just means first you put together all the paralleled battery packs (you have 2)

And AFTER that, you connect the main plug of both batterys to the Mainboard.

 

 

Edited by US69
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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

Take a look at my video, at 28min 5sec

And here's another view, different wheel

 

i was looking at it before.

"spark time" *pop*

but i think it would be different with a new control board with fully discharged capacitors

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1 minute ago, Marty Backe said:

Not true. First of all, capacitors don't magically maintain their charge indefinitely. Second, when I work on a wheel I first disconnect the battery from the control board and then I turn on the wheel. This fully discharges the capacitors and makes it safer to work around the control board.

now when i think about it. i did same thing when i worked on my wheel... turned it on while no batteries

i dont know why i didnt think about that...

well now nothing to fear! other than waiting. . .

 

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7 hours ago, Shad0z said:

do you have a video? i need a  little more step by step

 

6 hours ago, US69 said:

Good Explanation! Exactly like this i do it on all my maintenance checks....small "Pop" but never any burning spark :-)

 

He just means first you put together all the paralleled battery packs (you have 2)

And AFTER that, you connect the main plug of both batterys to the Mainboard.

 

 

US69 is exactly correct. Connect all parallel packs first and then the packs to the mainboard. At 19.10 into the video you can see what it meant by being ‘deliberate’ in the connection process. There should be no hesitation when connecting the packs to the board.

In the video I have already installed the XL90 spark arrestor so I cheated a bit but as mentioned earlier you will only hear a small pop when using your existing XL60s.

 

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1 hour ago, Rehab1 said:

 

I wished there was an anti spark button to push that would diffuse my wife. She asked is I was was going riding earlier after seeing we wearing my black clothes. I could not lie to her and she was pissed.  I got halfway to the park and turned around as I did not want to face the wrath this weekend.  

i feel sorry for you.. :unsure:

 

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3 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

I did that as well. Ian had a video showing this method as well. 

I wished there was an anti spark button to push that would diffuse my wife. She asked is I was was going riding earlier after seeing we wearing my black clothes. I could not lie to her and she was pissed.  I got halfway to the park and turned around as I did not want to face the wrath this weekend.  

:crying:

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On 4/13/2018 at 10:05 AM, Shad0z said:

ahhh i understand. i just have to be lightning fast when connecting the two batteries to the main board... lets see how that goes...

giphy.gif

 

:laughbounce2: Good depiction!  I found a photo of my hand after the explosion. Looks similar.  I wore leather gloves to connect the packs to the MB after that episode. :cry2:

40755832494_51e2c98feb_b.jpg26597962497_4909ab0d38_b.jpg

 

Edited by Rehab1
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On 4/13/2018 at 5:11 AM, Raptor said:

I used powerful resistors !

....

First, connect through a powerful resistor and wait until the heat in them disappears and only then connect directly !

( I added in parallel the connectors for the resistors )

Something like this approach is the best for the life of the connectors and the capacitors. It can be achieved a number of ways.  The above is simple and works in the field also.  

The reason it occurs is that if the capacitors are discharged to 0V then the will essentially appear as a dead short on the battery. Hence the massive current, through the connector which may not yet be fully seated. Most of the time the capacitors are not at completely discharged so the load is less when first connected. However some people go through great pains to make them zero volts and make the problem of reconnecting the batteries worse.  You will have no issue if you just unplug them and plug them back in.

This issue may get more common if Super Capacitors start being used, which is quite possible with the current crop of high torque motors and the batteries being used. They may fix this in the design however at that point,  but if the caps are just strapped across the input,  this remains an issue, and a softstart will keep you safe, and will be much much better for the capacitors as it is very hard for the wheel owner to know when their capacitors are no longer up to spec.

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