Cloud Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Does anyone know how to fix a bent rim on the KS14? See picture. i dont think aluminum will react well to banging on it. Any suggestions? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Wow! How did this happen? ps.: i have no suggestion but buying a new motor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 This is a new motor. Not sure how...maybe in transit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battling Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 With an hydraulic press, it will work. Otherwise, you could try with a strong vice. It will help if you put an iron bar between the edges of the rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 13 minutes ago, Battling said: With an hydraulic press, it will work. Otherwise, you could try with a strong vice. It will help if you put an iron bar between the edges of the rim. You are suggesting to slowly bend it back? Do you suggest preheating it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason McNeil Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I've been successful banging a 14C rim back into shape with a padded hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battling Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Yes, slowly and, as for all metals, it's important de preheat it. I use a basic blowtorch like this one Don't forget to use a piece of metal/wood to stop the progression because it's more difficult to straighten it from between the edges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 17 minutes ago, Cloud said: You are suggesting to slowly bend it back? Do you suggest preheating it? Don't what ever you do heat it with the motor/magnets in place, apart from possibly damaging the insulation on the coils neodymium magnets can permenantly lose there magnetism as low as 80 degrees C depending on their composition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 8 minutes ago, Keith said: Don't what ever you do heat it with the motor/magnets in place, apart from possibly damaging the insulation on the coils neodymium magnets can permenantly lose there magnetism as low as 80 degrees C depending on their composition. Makes sense. Well i am not really looking to remove the magnets - its not worth going through that ordeal. I was thinking of using a small torch and preheating locally, but if the magnets can demagnetize at 80c, i dont think i can sufficiently localize the heated area. Might then just bend or bang back in shape... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 They can be made capable of withstanding up to 230C, but if I understand correctly the stronger the magnets the lower the fail temperature tends to be. The EUC designer certainly wouldn't be concerned to use high temperature magnets as they are glued to a damn great aluminium heatsink. Like a lot of EUC stuff I'm aware of it is it because it can be a real concern on my model radio control motors which can potentially get very hot. i believe heating to around 350F (177C) is needed to soften aluminium to help work it, I'd personally just try a soft mallet, exactly as Jason suggests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 If it's a new motor, you could try contacting the courier company to see if they will cover the repair / replacement under damage insurance. If you know a good autobody shop they might be able to fix it for you for a cost. That would be the best bet. If you are the DIYer, I would make sure the non-bent areas are well supported underneath to prevent them from distorting. If you have some woodworking tools you can cut some pieces of wood to the size of the inner rim to slide into the well of the wheel to support the non-bent portions against each other. Some shims and a vice might help bend things back into place. You want to think it through carefully when you apply forces as you don't want the other areas moving when force is applied. If you have one of these sheet metal bending locking pliers it might help as an option: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/8r-locking-sheet-metal-clamp-plier/A-p2911774e Try taping some leather strips to the flat portions on the plier (or use shims) to help protect the metal as you bend it down. I would make sure the bottom flat piece of the plier is supported against the metal/wood pieces supporting the rest of the rim, and apply gentle pressure to the bent section and see how it bends down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blechi Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Wow. This doesn't look good. Is there any part that is still round, concentric and not wobbling in the axial direction? Are these cracked open? If yes, you got yourself a nice piece of scrap metal. Another thing is, that the metal at the outer rim has been stretched by the bending. Simply bending it back without shrinking it will cause deformations in other places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Banging or bending sounds "good" possible but heat no , freight company are responsible if they did it , contact them , you should have a new one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 8 hours ago, Blechi said: Wow. This doesn't look good. Is there any part that is still round, concentric and not wobbling in the axial direction? Are these cracked open? If yes, you got yourself a nice piece of scrap metal. Another thing is, that the metal at the outer rim has been stretched by the bending. Simply bending it back without shrinking it will cause deformations in other places. No not cracked. That was probably a shadowm. The metal was compressed. I know its not possible to make it perfect like a new one but if i coukd get to to the point that i can ride without noticing any vibrations that would be good enough... 5 hours ago, Bjorn H said: Banging or bending sounds "good" possible but heat no , freight company are responsible if they did it , contact them , you should have a new one I will ask if there was any insurance on the shipment, but i doubt this will help. Insurance claims are rarely paid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Were you ever able to repair this rim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 I had 2 of them bent, was able to repair one. Had to use a hand helt torch fed off of a small propane tank to heat up the metal. Used rubber hammer to straighten it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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