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A new i5 style EUC potentially coming this year!


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6 minutes ago, dongsoo said:

Oh another thing. We want some way to open the pedal without crouching down!!. 

I use 1cm^2 of the usual baby padding attached to the shell to create a spacer between shell and pedal (as it can be seen here at the top middle of the pedal). Like this, I can reliably unfold the pedal with the shoe.

Edited by Mono
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tire price is negligible but efforts to change tire is a major hassle.

U can change even car tire by simply ordering it online, go to shop, and pay 20 bucks extra. 

I recharged v5f's battery as soon as it got depleted (after couple of turn back on, go a little more cycle).

 

 

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Just now, dongsoo said:

So i recommend to stop using the  battery when its under 10% to be safe.

Do people actually ride their EUC's that low? Most people will charge their wheel, when battery drops around 40-50%.

Just now, dongsoo said:

Thats what i am doing now, hoping they read it.

Good joke - they don't.

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2 minutes ago, dongsoo said:

tire price is negligible but efforts to change tire is a major hassle.

On the V8 line it's OKish. You have to understand how to do it, but then it doesn't take that long. Getting to the tire takes less than 10 minutes. I never personally checked what a shop would charge.

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6 minutes ago, Mono said:

I use 1cm^2 of the usual baby padding attached to the shell to create a spacer between shell and pedal. Like this, I can reliably unfold the pedal with the shoe.

Good idea

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1 minute ago, Funky said:

Do people actually ride their EUC's that low?

No. Also, low charge status doesn't lead to battery depletion unless it is below 0%.

Edited by Mono
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If manufacturers would listen to riders - they would have stopped making shet long time ago.. 

We are getting only NOW "waterproof" wheels (somewhat). Which was needed 10 years ago.

Edited by Funky
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12 minutes ago, Mono said:

I use 1cm^2 of the usual baby padding attached to the shell to create a spacer between shell and pedal (as it can be seen here at the top middle of the pedal). Like this, I can reliably unfold the pedal with the shoe.

My ks18xl small ankle padding does the same job. :D Also my aftermarket pedals can be regulated how much they close. When i close them - they open little bit. (Can be changed how much they open or stay closed.)

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1 hour ago, Funky said:

If manufacturers would listen to riders - they would have stopped making shet long time ago. 

Or making more, depending on who they were listening :rolleyes:

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4 hours ago, Funky said:

If manufacturers would listen to riders - they would have stopped making shet long time ago.. 

We are getting only NOW "waterproof" wheels (somewhat). Which was needed 10 years ago.

Hm.. This trend seems to be created by market demand.  They want fast powerful wheels to show off.  Look at S2. Its more advanced than any wheels now, but Segway closed their factory right?  

 

Btw, my v5f mysteriously charged to full 100% today. Idk why. Maybe warmer weather. 

Anyway I retracted the bid for s2 from ebay. Hehe. 

My next wheel is s2 or begode mini.  I really wanna fly to other country with this.  I am not interested any big wheels.  Its dangerous and u need to suit up to ride that fast.

And like I said, small wheels without trolley is no no. 

Why would anybody want to carry this stuff on backpack ??   Only case I can think of is these students in Asia who wanna ride bus with it.  I know city buses in Korea is more strict on carryon size and weight.  

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, Mono said:

Or making more, depending on who they were listening :rolleyes:

I mean they literally are doing that. Making toys/clown wheels or monster motorcycle wheels. Those monster motorcycle wheels look amazing and sweet.

And then we have. Basketball.. Wheel with 180wh.. 2 wheelie.. Why they can't take the same design of those monster euc's and simply shrink them down? Half motor size, battery, everything... And most important weight.

Edited by Funky
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10 hours ago, Mono said:

I use 1cm^2 of the usual baby padding attached to the shell to create a spacer between shell and pedal (as it can be seen here at the top middle of the pedal). Like this, I can reliably unfold the pedal with the shoe.

Do you catch this with your foot, at what point, is there a video to see your action? I thought you had to grab the second pedal with your hand because you have to bend down to open a first pedal, but I want to try to change my habit.

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I have seen a couple of the well known Youtubers who always wanted bigger, faster and heavier wheels starting to change their minds on the subject. After years of riding and the experience of dozens of wheels, they are starting to say the sweet spot is somewhere in the midrange, wheels that can be lifted with one hand, that have reasonable speed and range, without being excessive..wheels that are easy to live with.. Lightweight but practical and reliable wheels, with a compact and attractive form and a speed of 25/30kmh and a range of 25 Km would be very good as a commuter tool. A modern KS14 or Inmotion V5. A practical, easy to use Honda Civic type wheel for urban commuting… The speedy wheel you keep for weekends.

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11 hours ago, varamontelo said:

Do you catch this with your foot,

No, I catch the pedal where it is most convenient, at the front top, with the foot. The padding is just a spacer.

11 hours ago, varamontelo said:

at what point, is there a video to see your action?

No, I have seen other riders doing it on YT, but I can't find an example currently.

11 hours ago, varamontelo said:

I thought you had to grab the second pedal with your hand because you have to bend down to open a first pedal, but I want to try to change my habit.

I rarely touch my pedals with my hands anymore, mainly/only when I lift the wheel sideways into a trunk.

Edited by Mono
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53 minutes ago, Nostris said:

I have seen a couple of the well known Youtubers who always wanted bigger, faster and heavier wheels starting to change their minds on the subject. After years of riding and the experience of dozens of wheels, they are starting to say the sweet spot is somewhere in the midrange, wheels that can be lifted with one hand, that have reasonable speed and range, without being excessive..wheels that are easy to live with.. Lightweight but practical and reliable wheels, with a compact and attractive form and a speed of 25/30kmh and a range of 25 Km would be very good as a commuter tool. A modern KS14 or Inmotion V5. A practical, easy to use Honda Civic type wheel for urban commuting… The speedy wheel you keep for weekends.

I still would want the max speed to be around 40kmh.. For safety reasons. I don't really feel comfortable riding 30kmh, if wheel max speed is 30kmh..

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11 hours ago, varamontelo said:

Do you catch this with your foot, at what point, is there a video to see your action? I thought you had to grab the second pedal with your hand because you have to bend down to open a first pedal, but I want to try to change my habit.

I think YOU din't noticed the second padding hiding behind the pedal itself. Ahh green grass hopper look closer. (You can see it little bit popping out at very top of pedal. Don't look at the big pad on wheel shell..)

As for opening - you slide your dirty shoe against wheel shell downwards motion - till the foot catch the pedal side and then you fling it open like trying to engage old motorbike. 

 

(You simply don't close the pedals all the way "close". Leave little gap between euc shell and pedal - so you can catch pedal with feet and open it. If pedal is completely closed - almost smooth with euc shell. You can't catch and open it with feet.)

Edited by Funky
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1 hour ago, Mono said:

No, I catch the pedal where it is most convenient, at the front top, with the foot. The padding is just a spacer.

No, I have seen other riders doing it on YT, but I can't find an example currently.

I rarely touch my pedals with my hands anymore, mainly/only when I lift the wheel sideways into a trunk.

Thanks a lot.

Edited by varamontelo
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On 3/18/2024 at 7:03 AM, varamontelo said:

Do you catch this with your foot, at what point, is there a video to see your action? I thought you had to grab the second pedal with your hand because you have to bend down to open a first pedal, but I want to try to change my habit.

Forgot to mention: the second pedal goes often down only after I drove off. From trolleying to wheeling it is like: 1) stop and unfold the right pedal with the right foot 2) put the right foot on the right pedal 3) push the trolley handle in (for which I have to bow down and for which, on the V8 models, it is much more practical to have the right foot on the pedal) 4) drive off and 5) unfold left pedal with left foot where I also expect that I may not succeed first try in which case the kick motion is sometimes a safeguard. When I unfold both pedals before to drive off, I usually use the right foot for both pedals.

Edited by Mono
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On 3/17/2024 at 4:01 PM, Mono said:

No. Also, low charge status doesn't lead to battery depletion unless it is below 0%.

I thought it was widely agreed that depleting lithium batteries to significantly below 20% capacity shortens their lifespan when compared to keeping them between 20% and 80%.

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1 hour ago, RooEUC said:

I thought it was widely agreed that depleting lithium batteries to significantly below 20% capacity shortens their lifespan when compared to keeping them between 20% and 80%.

It's a commonly rumored myth, but apparently not true. Cycling (and/or storing) at low charge status does very little depletion. Only deep discharging is a problem. The regular charge depletion happens mainly between 80% and 100% state of charge, not between 0% and 20%. These are respective data I gathered from an Android battery management app:Screenshot2024-03-19at16_01_51.thumb.png.f91f1f7b9612991213a6d4f79183248b.png.

We can see, for example, that charging from 0=60% costs less than 0.1 depletion cycle for this 0.6 cycle charge, that is, it increases the available battery charge cycles until end of life by more than a factor of six. It's virtually the same factor for any cycling within 0 and 60%. Charging from 0-80% costs 0.2 cycle (20%), which is still a 4 fold increase of cycles. Charging from 80%-100% costs 0.8 cycles which means 0.8/0.2=4 times fewer cycles until end of life when always charging this range only.

Edited by Mono
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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Mono said:

It's a commonly rumored myth, but apparently not true. Cycling (and/or storing) at low charge status does very little depletion. Only deep discharging is a problem. The regular charge depletion happens mainly between 80% and 100% state of charge, not between 0% and 20%. These are respective data I gathered from an Android battery management app:Screenshot2024-03-19at16_01_51.thumb.png.f91f1f7b9612991213a6d4f79183248b.png.

We can see, for example, that charging from 0=60% costs less than 0.1 depletion cycle for this 0.6 cycle charge, that is, it increases the available battery charge cycles until end of life by more than a factor of six. It's virtually the same factor for any cycling within 0 and 60%. Charging from 0-80% costs 0.2 cycle (20%), which is still a 4 fold increase of cycles. Charging from 80%-100% costs 0.8 cycles which means 0.8/0.2=4 times fewer cycles until end of life when always charging this range only.

So it is a very widely believed myth after all.  Thanks.  Now I have one less thing to worry about when using and storing my RC model batteries.  If this is true, I should be able to lower my under-load LVC and get a couple more minutes of flight time with no negative effects.  As for EUCs, e-skates and e-bikes, for years I've made a real effort to avoid riding when the battery is super low because I was under the belief that doing so repeatedly would reduce to some degree, the lifespan and/or capacity of my batteries over time.  It's something that's stated so often in the RC hobby scene and by mobile phone enthusiasts. 

Edited by RooEUC
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