t0me Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 Find some old school headphones or av cable if you're going to salvage the plug. They used to use more copper in the wires way back when. Using headphones for the source and you'd end up with very light gauge wires with not a lot of insulation between them in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 been watching euc videos all day staying out of the heat and feeling my terminal cancer more lately, but i had a package at the gate and decided to check on the lynxes after checking the tire pressures from the last ride. i took the 66lb one and i knew immediately the tire was low. squeeze test doesn't measure accurately. i made it to my gate and back very slowly and i had about 5psi in the tire. the sidewalls were very warm. that's where wobbles come from. so i added the last of my slime to the tire and rode it to the gate at 35psi. i'll see if that holds. then i checked the 70lb one and it was holding fine at 28, but i put it slightly under 30psi to see how that felt on my paths. i mustered up enough energy for a 2/3rds of a patrol and 30psi was very harsh. i love my lynxes but before u rave about their suspension, put the tire at 32psi, and see what u think. but happy knowing that so many people like the suspension, that means all the other wheels must be worse. takes a bit more effort and skill, but the v13's with that giant knobby at 36psi is more comfortable. my ranking as of today, v13, lynx, s22 and s18 for ranch patrols. pavement doesn't matter. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Hello Guys, Sold my Master V2 this summer that I rode for two years every week. My lynx (50S, 62lbs) arrived earlier this month but without pads I couldn't try it. It's now been nearly two months since I've been up on a wheel due do holidays and forced work from home due to the olympics, so I've tried the lynx with pads carefully today. The build quality is excellent, but I hear a small noise like some clicks when rolling, I think it's the small rubber things that stick out of the tire when new. I can't fault the wheel on torque for accelerating and braking (even though I think it's a bit harder than my master to accelerate) but I can't quite manoeuvre it like I could my master (but I had it for 2 years so...). Making a U turn proves difficult. It is cushy yes, but maybe too much (I haven't touch anything yet suspension wise). Performance seems great, even though I've only done like 5km with it to try it, only went up to 65 km/h but something strange happens, EUC world reads a fairly high PWM usage for 60kph, like nearly 80%? Is there some sort of bug going on with the PWM on the lynx on EUC world? Overall, I don't feel quite right yet on the wheel, even though I do admit it looks amazing and feels overall very solid. But I'm very harsh for like a 6km ride with absolutely no set up effort on my part ahah, I have to do 50km thursday at fairly high speed to go to and from work, I will have a better assesment of the wheel then Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizra6ot Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 12 minutes ago, Timwheel said: but I can't quite manoeuvre it like I could my master (but I had it for 2 years so...). Making a U turn proves difficult. I guess you're used to the Begode pedal turning angle that make the pedals dip forward for years now When Begode released the FW + app update giving the ability to change this setting, I tested the 4/9(no dip/neutral) and it was quite unsettling making a U turn at first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Right maybe... What bugs me however is that I did recharge the wheel after my small trip and it felt like the PWM was over reported by a fair amount... My master had more headroom on EUC world... Worst than that, at the end of a charge my left battery has 0.119v of unbalance (right side 0.049v) and it feels like a whole lot. The first 18 cells of the left battery pack behave the same(around 4.11 at the end of the charge) but the last 18 of those cells are reporting 4.23 and even up to 4.25v for some cells which cuts the charge. Is it normal behavior from a wheel with 8km ? It worries me. Thank you, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skampster Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Take it for a good ride, get it down to at least 50% and just pop it on charge to 100% and let it sit on green for a few and take it out again. The cells will settle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PourUC Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 21 hours ago, Timwheel said: Right maybe... What bugs me however is that I did recharge the wheel after my small trip and it felt like the PWM was over reported by a fair amount... My master had more headroom on EUC world... Worst than that, at the end of a charge my left battery has 0.119v of unbalance (right side 0.049v) and it feels like a whole lot. The first 18 cells of the left battery pack behave the same(around 4.11 at the end of the charge) but the last 18 of those cells are reporting 4.23 and even up to 4.25v for some cells which cuts the charge. Is it normal behavior from a wheel with 8km ? It worries me. Thank you, Tim EUC World and other apps are still bugged in regards to PWM reporting. Field Weakning means you get more speed but the wheel still outputs PWM as if it isn't turned on. It's a bit strange but the internal wheel beeps still work fine with field weakening and when comparing them to EUC World safety margin they don't line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 46 minutes ago, PourUC said: EUC World and other apps are still bugged in regards to PWM reporting. Field Weakning means you get more speed but the wheel still outputs PWM as if it isn't turned on. It's a bit strange but the internal wheel beeps still work fine with field weakening and when comparing them to EUC World safety margin they don't line up. It's not an app problem or field weakening related, the Lynx (and likely Sherman L) overreports the PWM value over bluetooth regardless if high speed mode is on or not, as you observed the internal beeps are fine so it seems like a bug. It seems that around 85-86% it normalizes and becomes more accurate. I wish LeaperKim would fix this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAXi Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 On 9/8/2024 at 7:46 PM, Timwheel said: Right maybe... What bugs me however is that I did recharge the wheel after my small trip and it felt like the PWM was over reported by a fair amount... My master had more headroom on EUC world... Worst than that, at the end of a charge my left battery has 0.119v of unbalance (right side 0.049v) and it feels like a whole lot. The first 18 cells of the left battery pack behave the same(around 4.11 at the end of the charge) but the last 18 of those cells are reporting 4.23 and even up to 4.25v for some cells which cuts the charge. Is it normal behavior from a wheel with 8km ? It worries me. Thank you, Tim I had the same. As far as I understood it's because the charger voltage is too high. If you want to, someone can link you to the quick guide to tune the charger down a bit. However, you can with the latest firmware set the charging voltage lower from the wheel settings. The voltage imbalance happens only at the "slight overcharge" territory and will show balanced cells after riding a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) My charger is out of the box 151.2 exactly. My issue resolved itself after a semi hard ride and a night on the charger, went down to 0.015v which seems way better. However I've been sent a video by leaperkim to force the wheel to equilibrate if I understand correctly, I will share it there later on. I've set up the wheel to my liking, lowered the pedals with the beidou kit (I only do high speed city riding) even though I lived with my master on stock settings for two years. I added a seat but the seating position feels not as natural that on my master (then again two years of muscle memories..). The wheel is very smooth but it makes much more noise than my dear master V2 did. Performance wise, I've not been able to overtorque it yet, even though I could easily overtorque my master under braking. With the lower pedals, it does feel way more agile (but then again, I didn't give it the benefit of the doubt when it came to stock ride height, it seemed to be higher than my master though ?). I did try some suspension settings, rebound and preload definitely work, however damping makes no difference when bouncing in place, like nothing I can feel. So I dialed it back to stock (there was no damping at stock settings, fully anti clockwise). It still feels smooth, maybe I'm paranoid but I really did feel no damping.. Did someone else try it ? Thank you, Tim Edited September 9 by Timwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Just watched the Wrong Way video, interesting, I jump a bit but definitely not huge jumps, I experience a totally different firmware bug related to jumping which is not about pedal dipping. I just mailed LeaperKim about my problem and attached the logs for them as well so hopefully I will get some response on this. Some context I have the .11 firmware, 65% ride mode and 30% assist, I find these settings work great for me on the road, off-road, in the skatepark etc, everything feels great, I have not verified if I get this problem on earlier firmwares. So I jump a bunch in the local Skatepark, there's a pretty tall spine (almost 2 meters) that I climb/jump over, a not as tall but longer tabletop that I jump over and a larger jump that ends into a small slope which you can jump fairly high on and get a soft landing onto the slope, sometimes I do some steep drops on the spine or into the bowl, all this is fine and feels great while doing it, the problem is when I stop. So lets say I do a couple of laps jumping around and dropping and then I stop to rest, a lot of times the pedals are stuck in a backward or forward angle i.e. not flat, the pedals are also suddenly very stiff like they went into super hard mode (a lot stiffer than 100% ride mode 0% assist) and it won't correct itself either, like you can see it slowly adjusting back to normal for a bit but it doesn't fully go back to flat and even riding around on a flat surface it doesn't go back all the time pedals staying super stiff, the fix when this happen is to power the wheel off and on again which fixes it every time. At first I thought it was just some random occurrence but I basically reproduce it on every jump session (I've been to the skate-park multiple times per week past weeks same thing every time). I also ride some pretty technical off-road but I never experienced this while off-roading, it only happens during my jump sessions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 12 minutes ago, Timwheel said: My charger is out of the box 151.2 exactly. My issue resolved itself after a semi hard ride and a night on the charger, went down to 0.015v which seems way better. However I've been sent a video by leaperkim to force the wheel to equilibrate if I understand correctly, I will share it there later on. I've set up the wheel to my liking, lowered the pedals with the beidou kit (I only do high speed city riding) even though I lived with my master on stock settings for two years. I added a seat but the seating position feels not as natural that on my master (then again two years of muscle memories..). The wheel is very smooth but it makes much more noise than my dear master V2 did. Performance wise, I've not been able to overtorque it yet, even though I could easily overtorque my master under braking. With the lower pedals, it does feel way more agile (but then again, I haven't give it the benefit of the doubt when it came to stock ride height, it seemed to be higher than my master though ?). I did try some suspension settings, rebound and preload definitely work, however damping makes no difference when bouncing in place, like nothing I can feel. So I dialed it back to stock (there was no damping at stock settings, fully anti clockwise). It still feels smooth, maybe I'm paranoid but I really did feel no damping.. Did someone else try it ? Thank you, Tim With full dampening it should almost be like locking the suspension out, if you feel no difference at all between lowest and highest setting I would think that something is wrong with it. Normally you don't want any dampening for the most responsive suspension feeling, for EUC use case it's mostly for bottom out prevention (which you don't really need). I wrote a guide how to tune the suspension I don't know if you already saw it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 I did saw it, thank you, and it helped. Did you try full damping on the lynx ? On the master it indeed locked everything, with the lynx it basically does nothing... Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 11 minutes ago, Timwheel said: I did saw it, thank you, and it helped. Did you try full damping on the lynx ? On the master it indeed locked everything, with the lynx it basically does nothing... Thank you It does, something might be wrong with yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) It has 9km the shock makes a really strange noise when goign from sitting on the front bumper, something like water flowing. I did record a video of the noise and the effects of adjustment Be aware, the video is mirrored, I'm indeed adjusting the right side with the blue ring. It feels like it's broken but it's only been used for a single ride, the wheel displays 9km total... It is literraly brand new I'm gutted, it was supposed to be the one. I splashed a lot on this wheel, and it isn't even properly built. Edited September 9 by Timwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duster Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 41 minutes ago, Rawnei said: Just watched the Wrong Way video, interesting, I jump a bit but definitely not huge jumps, I experience a totally different firmware bug related to jumping which is not about pedal dipping. I just mailed LeaperKim about my problem and attached the logs for them as well so hopefully I will get some response on this. Some context I have the .11 firmware, 65% ride mode and 30% assist, I find these settings work great for me on the road, off-road, in the skatepark etc, everything feels great, I have not verified if I get this problem on earlier firmwares. So I jump a bunch in the local Skatepark, there's a pretty tall spine (almost 2 meters) that I climb/jump over, a not as tall but longer tabletop that I jump over and a larger jump that ends into a small slope which you can jump fairly high on and get a soft landing onto the slope, sometimes I do some steep drops on the spine or into the bowl, all this is fine and feels great while doing it, the problem is when I stop. So lets say I do a couple of laps jumping around and dropping and then I stop to rest, a lot of times the pedals are stuck in a backward or forward angle i.e. not flat, the pedals are also suddenly very stiff like they went into super hard mode (a lot stiffer than 100% ride mode 0% assist) and it won't correct itself either, like you can see it slowly adjusting back to normal for a bit but it doesn't fully go back to flat and even riding around on a flat surface it doesn't go back all the time pedals staying super stiff, the fix when this happen is to power the wheel off and on again which fixes it every time. At first I thought it was just some random occurrence but I basically reproduce it on every jump session (I've been to the skate-park multiple times per week past weeks same thing every time). I also ride some pretty technical off-road but I never experienced this while off-roading, it only happens during my jump sessions. when this happens, have you tried turning it off and on again? I'm not trying to joke; for the sake of experimentation, that'd probably tell us a little bit. Like, if it returns to flat after power cycling, then it would suggest the firmware is reacting to the riding in a wacky way. If it stays unlevel after power cycling, that might suggest there is a physical effect happening to the gyroscope, right? From what you describe, it sounds kinda like being dizzy: a bunch of disorienting movement that takes a moment to wear-off. This sounds highly unlikely. However it's worth ruling out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAXi Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) @TimwheelThe liquid noise is normal, I have the same. It's just the oil moving in the suspension. The spring is progressive in Lynx after all, so you might have to really drop from something to feel the difference. I personally didn't put any compression dampening as advised by @Rawnei but rebound dampening makes a huge difference, you should have as much dampening as possible as long as the spring has time to rebound on your rides. If you don't have that, the wheel will feel like a pogo and is dangerous to ride. Maybe lower a bit if you like jumping. Edited September 9 by RELAXi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 2 minutes ago, RELAXi said: @TimwheelThe liquid noise is normal, I have the same. It's just the oil moving in the suspension. The spring is progressive in Lynx after all, so you might have to really drop from something to feel the difference. I personally didn't put any compression dampening as advised by @Rawnei but rebound dampening makes a huge difference, you should have as much dampening as possible as long as the spring has time to rebound on your rides. If you don't have that, the wheel will feel like a pogo and is dangerous to ride. Maybe lower a bit if you like jumping. Thanks for the return. Rebound does work on the other damper, but the blue damping does nothing as you can see in the video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAXi Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Timwheel said: Thanks for the return. Rebound does work on the other damper, but the blue damping does nothing as you can see in the video Hard to say, they might not be 1:1 to adjust. The compression damping might be very subtle and not easily noticeable. I cannot say much more since I have it on zero. Edited September 9 by RELAXi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Just now, RELAXi said: Hard to say, they might not be 1:1 to adjust. The compression damping might be very subtle and not easily noticeable. I cannot say much more since I have it on zero. Could you please try to max it out to see if that makes a difference for you ? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 28 minutes ago, Timwheel said: It has 9km the shock makes a really strange noise when goign from sitting on the front bumper, something like water flowing. The noise is normal that is the oil flowing inside. 20 minutes ago, Duster said: when this happens, have you tried turning it off and on again? I'm not trying to joke; for the sake of experimentation, that'd probably tell us a little bit. Like, if it returns to flat after power cycling, then it would suggest the firmware is reacting to the riding in a wacky way. If it stays unlevel after power cycling, that might suggest there is a physical effect happening to the gyroscope, right? From what you describe, it sounds kinda like being dizzy: a bunch of disorienting movement that takes a moment to wear-off. This sounds highly unlikely. However it's worth ruling out. That is literally what I wrote as the only fix that works. 😅 18 minutes ago, Timwheel said: Thanks for the return. Rebound does work on the other damper, but the blue damping does nothing as you can see in the video Then I think it might be broken, you should contact your reseller about it, it should be covered by warranty, meanwhile since you don't want compression dampening you can still ride as is but would be nice for you if it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timwheel Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 (edited) 1 hour ago, Rawnei said: The noise is normal that is the oil flowing inside. That is literally what I wrote as the only fix that works. 😅 Then I think it might be broken, you should contact your reseller about it, it should be covered by warranty, meanwhile since you don't want compression dampening you can still ride as is but would be nice for you if it worked. Yes I understood it was oil but maybe the flow was different and could point out to my issue... Can someone please tell me if their lynx on max damping is really noticeably damping vs no damping at all ? Thank you EDIT: I've just seen this video. At 8:50, a test is done (it's the Patton but it should behave similarly). Like me, pushing compression damping to the max doesn't make a visible difference to the suspension. I'm starting to feel like either no one noticed that these just don't work ? @Rawnei are you sure your suspension nearly locks up with compression damping to the max ? I'm familiar with the feeling, the master would actually lock... Thank you Edited September 9 by Timwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duster Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 1 hour ago, Rawnei said: That is literally what I wrote as the only fix that works. 😅 Oh, I missed that.... So, wait, does that support my "dizzy" theory??? It's gotta be more complicated than that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skampster Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 3 hours ago, Timwheel said: However I've been sent a video by leaperkim to force the wheel to equilibrate if I understand correctly, I will share it there later on. Please do, I’m interested in seeing this. My L will arrive soon so just in case I need to balance that new wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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