Popular Post techyiam Posted January 15 Popular Post Share Posted January 15 (edited) 15 hours ago, MandatoryFun said: As someone with a batch 2 preorder, it's worth considering maybe waiting for batch 3 now. I definitely don't want to have to take apart the motor. If you really want to be safe, it is best to wait until owners from batch 2 or 3 have confirmed that they got a new motor, and the issue has been resolved. I have to agree that opening up a brand new motor does sucks. Edited January 16 by techyiam 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t0me Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 The question is, at what stage in batch 1 did the motor supplier change motors from the hand picked ones that did not exhibit the problem? Is it really a 3-5% issue? How many Lynx's does that relate to? I'm a looooooong way from my supplier. I'm wondering if I should be pre-empting the issue with them, to likely save both of us some expensive extra shipping costs, as I won't be pulling apart the motor of a brand new wheel myself, even if I can. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 i want a lynx too, but i don't want to have to buy another lynx a year later to figure out how to fix the first one, kinda like i had to do with the s22 and v13. i'm not complaining. i have lots of money invested, but i have 5 about as perfect of wheels u can get for what they were designed to do. and considering i hated my s22 and listed it for sale until it did some weird shit and i would never forgive myself if i sold a wheel to somebody, knowing it had some quirks, and they got hurt(welcome to the world of wheels, esp king song)so i just kept riding it. battery packs way out of balance, charge only to 92%, a real lemon. took it all apart, and replace the sliders, and used the new charger that came with the new wheel, and now the packs are perfect. the suspension amazing. oh yeah, a few trips to king song soft tuner. like, how do u know how bad the original s22 was until u compare with the latest version s22pro? when i saw how good the pro was, that gave me incentive to make my amateur better. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 36 minutes ago, t0me said: The question is, at what stage in batch 1 did the motor supplier change motors from the hand picked ones that did not exhibit the problem? Is it really a 3-5% issue? How many Lynx's does that relate to? I'm a looooooong way from my supplier. I'm wondering if I should be pre-empting the issue with them, to likely save both of us some expensive extra shipping costs, as I won't be pulling apart the motor of a brand new wheel myself, even if I can. Unless you don't mind taking apart the motor and performing the work, and you are in a big rush to get the Lynx, I would not chance it. You have a V11 and a V8 to ride in the meantime. Also, getting a later batch usually gets you more fixes, other than the one you know about. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t0me Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Just heard back from E-Riderz. Their first batch of Lynx's... is post the rest of the worlds first batch, so the ones they have coming (first to AU I believe) will include the copper spacer. Yup, I promised myself I would never get a batch 1 again (after waiting a long time for the V11 to come in - even if mine has been perfect)... and then I succumbed to peer pressure and the burning desire for an upgrade from my (beloved) V11. No regerts ;-) 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyss Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 (edited) 5 hours ago, t0me said: Is it really a 3-5% issue? How many Lynx's does that relate to? If this issue is the bearing moving, then it'll be a mechanical issue that will get worse and worse. It may not impact all lynx's right away, but as you use the lynx more the fault will occur. Most likely only 3-5% lynxes have been used enough for it to be a issue. Not sure how much of a issue it'll be in normal riding though. I had a sliding bearing on my Sherman that I ended up using green loctite to sort out. Didn't have any issues just a knocking sound. Another local rider with a Sherman max has the same knocking sound too. Edited January 16 by Eyss 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onkeldanuel Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 (edited) 2 hours ago, Eyss said: If this issue is the bearing moving, then it'll be a mechanical issue that will get worse and worse. It may not impact all lynx's right away, but as you use the lynx more the fault will occur. Most likely only 3-5% lynxes have been used enough for it to be a issue. Not sure how much of a issue it'll be in normal riding though. I had a sliding bearing on my Sherman that I ended up using green loctite to sort out. Didn't have any issues just a knocking sound. Another local rider with a Sherman max has the same knocking sound too. Spacer + green loctite is the way....knocking disappears to then...relatively easy but some work and unfortanatly like rawnei mentioned there things could go wrong too Edited January 16 by onkeldanuel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post novazeus Posted January 17 Popular Post Share Posted January 17 fyi 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco_LUE Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 3 to 5% of the motors? I would love to know the failure rate of "Mercedes" car. As long as the failure does not drop you, I think it's not THAT severe. Sherman S bearings had the problem with water ingress in the early days and it wasn't that problematic in the end but we all felt scared when Mr. Wrongway showed the sound of his rusty bearing on his review unit. And he finally purchased one later on. Let's see what happens. At least we are all aware of the situation. Ride safe guys and pay attention to any symptoms. I really doubt Leaperkim will let something like this ruin his reputation after all the effort they are making day by day 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post o u euc 2 Posted January 18 Popular Post Share Posted January 18 (edited) On 1/16/2024 at 4:06 AM, onkeldanuel said: Spacer + green loctite is the way....knocking disappears to then... Absolutely. I actually made the video posted above, and now I'm worried the other side will start slipping in the future. My bearing appeared to be spinning in the hub, not sliding on the shaft. The sleeve in the hub was oversized probably .004". In that first picture Leaperkim sent, the red lines represent where the spacers should be placed. One on the shaft for the inner race to set against, and a big one in the hub to set against the outer race from that side (Or maybe it means either/or? Don't know why it would HAVE to be on both sides of the bearing). My worry about that configuration is if your spacer is a little too thick you'll be putting a side load on the bearing. The spacers should all be on the shaft IMO, and locktite for the sleeve in the hub. This would need done on both sides. One idea I had to figure out how thick the spacers need to be, that I used to use in making molds, was to put some clay between the bearing and the hub, then take the hub back off, and measure the thickness of the clay. That is if I couldn't get measurements using a straight edge, or some other way, then the smashed clay option works in a pinch. Edited January 18 by DumbWheel 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Evans Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 yeah, i was surprised at how easily that outer race came out of its housing. in my experience that is usually a very tight fit requiring heat to expand the cover so the bearing can be removed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post techyiam Posted January 18 Popular Post Share Posted January 18 9 minutes ago, Steve Evans said: yeah, i was surprised at how easily that outer race came out of its housing. in my experience that is usually a very tight fit requiring heat to expand the cover so the bearing can be removed. Hmm. If the main culprit is due to poor QC of machining the motor hub for proper interference fit between the bearings outer race and the motor hub, then adding a spacer seems like just a bandage fix. It still won't be as stable and durable as with a proper interference fit. What great shame that this type of issues have spread across a few euc's from several makes. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 (edited) 37 minutes ago, DumbWheel said: My worry about that configuration is if your spacer is a little too thick you'll be putting a side load on the bearing. The spacers should all be on the shaft IMO, and locktite for the sleeve. Now that I think about it, at least in my case. If both bearings are seated against the stator, if I just put loctite in both hubs, then there's no way for the motor to move side to side, and no slipping, or rocking in the hub either. I think this would be the simplest fix, without spacers. When the bearings go bad, I will have to heat the hubs to get them off, but I guess that's normal anyways. Edited January 18 by DumbWheel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I haven't machined Magnesium alloy, but the machine marks in the hub were pretty thick, and widely spaced, like a rough machining job, not a finish job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 54 minutes ago, DumbWheel said: Absolutely. I actually made the video posted above thank u so much from the rest of us clamoring for information about this wheel. for whatever reasons, as u know as owner of several wheels, buying one sight unseen is a very difficult gamble. until the day comes when we have a dealer willing to do the work u have done, we will all still be clueless on making our buys. i know i wish ur lynx was perfect out of the box and i know lots of people looking at it are disappointed that these issues are coming up. my first s22 and v13 were crap also, and my v13 had been gone over by jason's former lead tech, at least that's what jacob nelson told me. and if he was the lead tech, nice guy on the phone, but obviously not suited for his role as owner, shipping me out a wheel with a leaking tire, suspension not even hooked up or installed properly, so that does make u wonder if they did the motor bolts correctly. haha, knowing jason's rep on the forum among members, i thought i was in good hands. not! i know i can build anything or fix anything, i've been doing it for over sixty years, but it takes time, and that i can't make or build. while i absolutely love watching other people work on wheels, ans if i had the time and facilities, it would be a great fun hobby like in 1999 when i started building rc helicopters which are much more difficult/complex to build correctly than a wheel, haha. look, i'm a contractor. i built and sold the finest most expensive homes ever built on this planet, and they were guaranteed forever, against defects in material or craftmanship, for arthur rutenberg homes, professional builder of the year, 1984. i used the best naterials and subcontractors i could find. if a house ever had a defect, haha, thinking about it makes me laugh, if i had sent them a part and told these millionaires and billionaires to fix it, haha, their next call would have been to their attys. hell, if a lightbulb went out, i'd replace it. i'm very demanding for perfection, because my customers would accept nothing else. before building houses, 5 years putting in vault doors, safery deposit boxes, bullet resistant windows, safes, atm's etc etc, anything to keep humans from stealing from other humans or harming them, for diebold inc, canton ohio.did that 19-24, and all my shit was perfect, had to be. i've never bought products directly from chinese manufacturers, all the thousands of dollars i spent on their stuff in the 90's was thru home depot and the like. i expected, for example, a 1 in 5 failure rate on these cheap $5 door knobs. so before i'd do the lock out on a house in the ghettos i was building the first ever on this planet energy efficient, low incone homes for the poorest among us, so i'd sit in front of the tv with these cheap chinese locks, and since i'm obviously a locksmith as well, and fix the ones that needed fixing. why? because i could buy ten of these door knobs for $50 and one schlage like i put in my million dollar houses cost $50 each, and they worked like shit too, if not perfectly installed. none of this matters to the customer. i sold them the house. it's my responsibility to make it right, not the customer. the right thing to do would be recall all these units after sending out brand new units that were built correctly. inmotion did a botch recall where they pulled back all their v10's and then sent me back somebody else's banged up v10 circa 2019. if u don't teach ur sub thru his wallet, he'll never learn, just saying. and this is why when i figure out how to make a wheel work for me, i buy multiples. i don't have all the time in the world like my snowed in neighbors. if my knee wasn't banged upm i'd be out riding now. hobbying is fun if u have the time, i'm coming up on 70, ten years past a terminal cancer diagnosis, so if i can buy time, sign me up. for me, these are just tools like a makita circular saw, nothing more. i wish they were built as good as makita circular saws. i've mowed my paths, the coyotes are in full hunting mode, a knee compression brace is coming today, so hopefully i can start crisscrossing my pastures doing surveillance. it's my job! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Yeah, I'm trying not to be upset about it, but I'm with you. Buying the most expensive wheel in the world shouldn't include me having to work on it, or even sending it in to be fixed. I only did it myself cause I wanted to see exactly what I bought. From now on it will be tried, and true, tested wheels. No more over priced batch 1's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 1 minute ago, DumbWheel said: Yeah, I'm trying not to be upset about it, but I'm with you. Buying the most expensive wheel in the world shouldn't include me having to work on it, or even sending it in to be fixed. I only did it myself cause I wanted to see exactly what I bought. From now on it will be tried, and true, tested wheels. No more over priced batch 1's. i've done batch one on at least 4 wheels now, and definitely as of late, these later batches are what first batch was suppose to be. u don't want to put a sub out of business by correcting them, however, it is their job to make sure their product is reliable before boxing up and shipping out. if a sub can keep making mistakes and continue to eat, that's what they'll do. it's human nature. but this is where we are at in this wheel world now. if there was something else i could use, i would! i don't keep track of all my lost time fixing king song's, 9bot, inmotion mistakes. what is encouraging, is seeing that they are fixing their mistakes in later batches, but don't necessarily announce them. right now, losing a calf to coyotes is like burning ten one hundred dollar bills. plus emotionally devastating. and i think i have lost two already. my visibility to the coyotes in my fields slows down their predation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 9 minutes ago, novazeus said: right now, losing a calf to coyotes is like burning ten one hundred dollar bills. plus emotionally devastating. and i think i have lost two already. my visibility to the coyotes in my fields slows down their predation. Yes. I was raised on a farm. Breeding season is coming on for the coyotes. I hope your calves do OK. That's terrible to lose your babies that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 and yeah, haha, waterproofing is important as well. as much as i try to avoid wet roads, when amazon hire drivers who can't read or speak english, and u have to dash down to ur gate to flag down the bozo, and then he screws around with his phone, while we're standing in the rain. it wasn't raining when i set out. typical florida. so now my diy s22 pro is drip drying hopefully in it's keter garage. it didn't get soaked, just a drizzle. my apt developer is such a sweetheart and they brought me smartones water because i asked them to on a previous site walk. today they just did it on their own volition and kindness. so the burley wagon isn't just for wheels. actually, all this water might have been heart stopping/ hard stopping on a wheel. oh yeah, in the background is the new cut thru i made for my rideout wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PourUC Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 On 1/13/2024 at 9:01 PM, novazeus said: thanks so much. it's been like pulling teeth to get information on this tire. and it was installed tubeless? with rim glue? whatever that is. so, if the lynx weighs 90 pounds rolling, if u use the 20% allowance rule for braking, 230 pounds times 20% or 230 pounds minus 46 pounds. the lynx and it's tire at max pressure cold should perform as designed for a rider weighing 184 pounds suited up. this math isn't mine, it's the motorcycle tire experts theory. but it makes sense to me. but riders have been riding deflated tires since 2017 and riders have been wobbling off since 2017, and yet this stoner, has never had wobbles until his tire was going flat. do what u want. ignore the math. these sidewall markings aren't suggestions. if u can't ride on a properly inflated tire, deflate ur tire and go SLOW! ur not ready to go fast. when u can balance on a hard tire, properly inflated, ur ready. You are simply wrong. For years in the motorcycle community it has always been go with bike manufacturers ratings not the tyres. Then adjust as needed. I feel like this needs to be said a few times per year. EUCs are not the first vehicle with tyres. All this stuff has been looked over before for different vehicles. Tyres are not made of cheese. As long as you are not over pressurizing them, they are fine. You don't need to ride at 40psi with this tyre if you don't want to. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 fyi https://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/about/tire-load-rating-tire-load-range/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Rawnei Posted January 19 Popular Post Share Posted January 19 Guys lets keep this thread about Lynx and not turn it into yet another tire thread. 🙏 4 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Rawnei Posted January 19 Popular Post Share Posted January 19 (edited) Recieved my BD seat this week, soft and robust, put some Velcro on it to make it less slippery and spray painted the metal parts black. Now I just need the wheel. 😁 Edited January 19 by Rawnei 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Adding that velcro was a nice touch! I really like the seat. The weather is horrible here, but I'm hoping to get a couple days to ride mine next week. After my teardown, and the loctite thing I'm eager to take another 50 mile gravel road test ride. I'll probably make an update video. I'm upset with myself for not doing both sides while I had it apart, and I never got a good shot of the shock model #. I'm not going to do the other side unless it starts making noise. I really like the wheel. Only ridden it a few days, 109 miles, but it's a breeze to ride. It's only slightly wobbly do to being so light with so much power, I think. I got wobbles when I got nervous, or when breaking, but nothing scary, easy to correct. I only got to 42mph max, fastest I've ever gone tho! I only found 3 things I didn't like 1- the missing spacers 2- the left mudguard mount has the cable hole in it, and funnels sand onto the outer bearing seal, which grinds away at it. 3- motor/tire, and battery box clearance is almost non existent. 1/4" between tire and bat box. 3/16" between motor hub and box. Rocks getting in there is a real issue. I've had some bad scrapes already, and felt it when one rock went through. I wouldn't call this an off road wheel if it can't handle small gravel, but it sure is good on the highway. Still ill be using it mostly on gravel roads. Guess I'll take my chances, and report in my future videos, 😆 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 18 minutes ago, DumbWheel said: 2- the left mudguard mount has the cable hole in it, and funnels sand onto the outer bearing seal, which grinds away at it. I suggest putting some tape over the holes (from the inside when wheel is disassembled), I did that both on Sherman S and Patton works great. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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