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Extremebull Commander Pro (134.4v,3600wh,suspension)


Greg X

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I feel like that may become a priority upgrade moving forward or it will come standard with higher speed wheels. I was just watching someone comparing the v13/Master Pro (U-Stride?) and they mentioned using the v13 handle as a brake and adjusting to the Master Pro without one.

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Anyone try a tire change on this wheel yet? I am down to the point where I'm disconnecting the motor phase wires and they have heat shielding on them they aren't like soldered to the board are they? Cause I don't want to go through the hassle of removing the heat shields to get at them if they are soldered down I won't mess with that

Edit: Nevermind I realized how I can do it without removing the motor wires. Still seems like that would be a pain if you ever do need to remove those

IMG20230520223942.jpg

Edited by Garzal
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15 minutes ago, Garzal said:

Anyone try a tire change on this wheel yet? I am down to the point where I'm disconnecting the motor phase wires and they have heat shielding on them they aren't like soldered to the board are they? Cause I don't want to go through the hassle of removing the heat shields to get at them if they are soldered down I won't mess with that

Edit: Nevermind I realized how I can do it without removing the motor wires. Still seems like that would be a pain if you ever do need to remove those

IMG20230520223942.jpg

yes. the tire change is a real b****.

Mainly because you cannot take any shortcuts or you'll pay for it with time and frustration. In other words, you have to practically disassemble the entire wheel and reassemble when done

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9 minutes ago, BKW said:

yes. the tire change is a real b****.

Mainly because you cannot take any shortcuts or you'll pay for it with time and frustration. In other words, you have to practically disassemble the entire wheel and reassemble when done

Did you have to remove the motor wires from the board? Seems like I should be able to do it by removing the left shock and just leaving the motor wire there but that little plastic guard/frame seems like it's going to be annoying...

IMG20230520230616.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Garzal said:

Did you have to remove the motor wires from the board? Seems like I should be able to do it by removing the left shock and just leaving the motor wire there but that little plastic guard/frame seems like it's going to be annoying...

IMG20230520230616.jpg

The motor wire I did not have to remove from motherboard area

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What tire are you replacing it with? I replaced the stock knobby with a kenda 340A, which I cannot for the life of me get it seated properly on the rim, which then causes wobbles when rotating. I wonder if the inner diameter of the kenda 340A is too big for this rim? I think most the street tires you see on these things are k340a, so idk...

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Am I missing something? I removed the bolts bolting the sliders to the motor and the shock doesn't drop out? Do I just need to pull harder or is it held in some other way?

IMG20230520231924.jpg

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1 minute ago, Garzal said:

Am I missing something? I removed the bolts bolting the sliders to the motor and the shock doesn't drop out? Do I just need to pull harder or is it held in some other way?

IMG20230520231924.jpg

Mind didn't either. It's supposed to stay in. This is why I said skipping steps causes more time and frustration.

In my case, I simply took the tire off the way you have the euc in the picture above. Once tire was off the rim I slid the tiee and tube down the motor and under and out from the suspension rod part. I never disconnected the motor cable.

Anyway, good luck dude. I literally spent like 8 hours today messing with this I'm done with thinking about it for now lol

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12 hours ago, Garzal said:

Am I missing something? I removed the bolts bolting the sliders to the motor and the shock doesn't drop out? Do I just need to pull harder or is it held in some other way?

IMG20230520231924.jpg

the shock are connected with a braket, the braket is attached to the top part. to remove the shocks you need to detach the braket from the top.

then you can access two small screws that holds the shocks.

 

anyway as already said you don't need to, once you have removed the side panels and disconnected the motor from the hub just slide it out and change the tire. (of course you need to free the motor cable)

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Every now and then I get tiny jitter/shakes from the Commander Pro. For instance, I'll notice when having the wheel still, and it'll feel like it's twitching lightly a couple times, then stopping, then doing it again. Tonight I noticed it when I pushed the commander pro kind of hard riding (it started twitching in increments after).

The twitches aren't bad but noticeable. When I turn off the EUC and turn it back on they are gone, however.

I know this is often linked to the motherboard based on what I've seen from others. Any ideas?

Edited by BKW
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1 hour ago, BKW said:

Every now and then I get tiny jitter/shakes from the Commander Pro. For instance, I'll notice when having the wheel still, and it'll feel like it's twitching lightly a couple times, then stopping, then doing it again. Tonight I noticed it when I pushed the commander pro kind of hard riding (it started twitching in increments after).

The twitches aren't bad but noticeable. When I turn off the EUC and turn it back on they are gone, however.

I know this is often linked to the motherboard based on what I've seen from others. Any ideas?

any video ?

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2 minutes ago, EMA said:

any video ?

it's pretty subtle, but next time it happens i'll try to capture it on my phone and will post it

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On 5/25/2023 at 10:41 PM, EUC Sharkman said:

Hey all! Finally got around to riding around my CPro on my street. I'm excited to take it out for its first 50+ mile ride. Here's my current setup:

 

Pads - Stock, but cut, separated, and placed where I like them

Riding Mode - Medium

Compression and Rebound - tuned for 240 lbs 

Tire - Stock Knobby, 28 psi out of 32 max

 

Coming from the EX20S, this wheel felt more compact, lighter, nimbler, and well balanced. It felt familiar and easy to ride from the start, with no learning curve required. Turning felt great even on the stock knobby, so much that even though I ordered a Kenda 340a I may just keep the knobby for now. Acceleration felt effortless and braking was quite strong. I have my pedals tilted forward 6 degrees on my EX20S to help accelerate and keep speed without constantly leaning forward but I didn't feel like I would need to do that for this wheel.

 

I have not tried seated riding yet but I have a seat ready. Just need to figure out a decent way to secure it.

 

Display is white but admittedly I didn't look at it once while I was in motion.

 

CNC pieces are great! Had to be careful not to rip out the wire for the tail light but it went well. CNC trolley handle is very secure and due to my long orangutan arms, it didn't feel too low.

 

All in all, great first impressions and super happy. I feel confident that I could fare pretty well on this wheel for any of my past rides on my current wheels, and then some. Also, I love the look! I wouldn't mind getting a quality glossy paint job on these metal sides.

 

More impressions as I get more miles!

 

Great to hear. I will say after my trials and tribulations to get the tire changed having a street tire on this wheel is totally worth it. Waaaaaay better than the cst stock tire. But I totally get not wanting to go through the hassle of changing it. Just chiming in to say it's worth it.

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There are two buttons on the Commander Pro. One turns on the EUC and the other, as far as I know, is only for transport mode?

What's the function of the second button next to the power button? I hear it is a kill-switch function, but when I tried to lift the wheel while pressing that button pretty sure the motor didn't disengage.

buttonpicture.JPG.4c268b7c04fcf7450e4ed4a4d31d7fd8.JPG

 

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2 hours ago, BKW said:

There are two buttons on the Commander Pro. One turns on the EUC and the other, as far as I know, is only for transport mode?

What's the function of the second button next to the power button? I hear it is a kill-switch function, but when I tried to lift the wheel while pressing that button pretty sure the motor didn't disengage.

buttonpicture.JPG.4c268b7c04fcf7450e4ed4a4d31d7fd8.JPG

 

Isn't it for the front light?

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3 hours ago, BKW said:

There are two buttons on the Commander Pro. One turns on the EUC and the other, as far as I know, is only for transport mode?

What's the function of the second button next to the power button? I hear it is a kill-switch function, but when I tried to lift the wheel while pressing that button pretty sure the motor didn't disengage.

buttonpicture.JPG.4c268b7c04fcf7450e4ed4a4d31d7fd8.JPG

 

I think it's a double tap to disengage and single tap to re-engage. 

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13 hours ago, BKW said:

There are two buttons on the Commander Pro. One turns on the EUC and the other, as far as I know, is only for transport mode?

What's the function of the second button next to the power button? I hear it is a kill-switch function, but when I tried to lift the wheel while pressing that button pretty sure the motor didn't disengage.

buttonpicture.JPG.4c268b7c04fcf7450e4ed4a4d31d7fd8.JPG

 

it's the lift switch ;)

double click to disengage motor, click again to resume normal riding

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 Ms Crusher is an EX30 owner, and she gave a very positive review on the Commander Pro. I have been waiting for someone to give this perspective since watching Dawn's own review on the EX30, and my very brief ride on the EX30. 

 

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18 minutes ago, techyiam said:

 Ms Crusher is an EX30 owner, and she gave a very positive review on the Commander Pro. I have been waiting for someone to give this perspective since watching Dawn's own review on the EX30, and my very brief ride on the EX30. 

 

Yeah, I’m definitely not regretting this purchase, especially for the price. The more I ride it the more I like it. It’s better than the Sherman max because it has everything that the SherMax has and more (suspension, 134V, magnesium shelling, strong trolley, price, etc). I was hesitant to say that at first, but it’s just true now that I own both

Edited by BKW
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5 hours ago, EUC Sharkman said:

I also think the Sherman S isn't a bad wheel either, but it doesn't have the cool "HT & HS" 2 in 1 factor that the 134v Begode/EB wheels provide.

While agreeable in theory, I haven’t heard anyone mention the ShermS torque or top speed to be lacking. I seem to remember 80km/h as the max speed in high speed mode.

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