Chriull Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) 14 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: Well I did this last night: zero voltage at these locations! I assumed it was because the wheel is powered off but perhaps not..? The power button is just a signal for the μC to start up the wheel- it has to be up and running all the time (hopefully in some sleep mode). So if the μC has no supply voltage the whole wheel cannot be powered on or used. What you know by now - the pcb's are well supplied by the battery voltage. There are many/some DC/DC converters. There are 15V, 5V and 3.3V rails on the pcbs - none of them has any voltage. Did you see any more labels on the PCBs? There could be a main DC/DC converter generating the 15V. And the other voltages are derived from this. Or every converter starts from the next higher voltage, etc, etc... However - a fault exist between the incoming battery voltage and the 15V, 5V and 3.3V rails. You should follow the path of the battery voltage to the DC/DC converter(s) one after another, analyze the schematics with the help of the datasheets. Measure input and output voltage of the converters and find the (first) faulty one. Or something else within this chain causing the trouble... Edited August 2, 2022 by Chriull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 Sure I could do that, but with these symptoms is the conclusion that the motherboard is fried? Not sure that I can replace micro components myself in a way that is satisfactory and safe. I would probably be more comfortable just replacing that component for a couple hundred bucks versus risking a face-plant due to my poor soldering skills. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 12 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: Not sure that I can replace micro components myself in a way that is satisfactory and safe. Even if you had to tools and expertise, there's little assurance that you'd be successful. Best to replace the entire board. You want to have checked the "duh" things like the switch, wiring, connector contacts, battery-voltage-gets-where-it-is-supposed-to-get stuff first so you don't find yourself with a new board that doesn't fix the problem. The advantage a service center has over shade tree mechanics is they (usually) have stock of all the replacement parts on hand so if it's not this, they can quickly change that and see if it works. Our process is a bit slower, and trial and error can get costly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) Unfortunately, the nearest EUC service shop in my country (that I'm aware of) is 1,850km from my house... I guess I'll keep searching for voltage on the motherboard to figure out what's gone Pete Tong..? Edited August 3, 2022 by macgyvercanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) I currently have a V11 opened up for surgery myself, but my problem is a bad MOSFET, which I plan to try my hand at replacing instead of a $300 driver board. I think you've ruled out driver board since you don't have the resistance to spinning, and charger not going red when plugged in would point to either main board or batteries. Did you get to see a battery voltage when you probed the XT90 connectors after disconnecting them? I was able to read mine at 82.2V on both sides. Motherboard individual components is not going to be easy to track down and might be impossible to fix well without professional stuff if it's not fuses or connectors or one of the big caps. It looks like the boards are actually pretty cheap on Aliexpress if you don't mind the long wait. time. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803578550898.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6dab6aaeUBruv7 Edited August 2, 2022 by chanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Sam Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 Sadly my v11 died to mosfets as well They seem fragile on InMotion wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 Quote Did you get to see a battery voltage when you probed the XT90 connectors after disconnecting them? Yup! I'm seeing ~78V on each battery at the XT90 connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) Quote It looks like the boards are actually pretty cheap on Aliexpress if you don't mind the long wait. Wow that one on AliExpress is a v2.1 board and mine is v0.7!! Edited August 2, 2022 by macgyvercanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 I don't know how much stock to put in the AliExpress photos. What I do know is the boards are $50 there and $200 from the US retailers I checked, not sure what the deal is there. Driver board prices are much closer. Side note, I ordered 10 replacement MOSFETs from here https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/IPP023N10N5 and I only expect to need a couple for this repair, willing to try my hand at repairing some other boards or shipping out my extras if anyone is interested. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 OK I've ordered a replacement motherboard... next episode of this saga will happen in 6 to 8 weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 19 hours ago, macgyvercanada said: Well I did this last night: zero voltage at these locations! I assumed it was because the wheel is powered off but perhaps not..? You did not check the small battery on the board till now, did you? Could be that all dc/dc converters are turned off and only the battery powers the μC while waiting for the power button to be pushed. 14 hours ago, macgyvercanada said: Sure I could do that, but with these symptoms is the conclusion that the motherboard is fried? Not necessarily - as long as no fault is definitely found everything is just an assumption... 11 hours ago, macgyvercanada said: Wow that one on AliExpress is a v2.1 board and mine is v0.7!! You checked the pictures if connectors, placement, etc is still the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post chanman Posted August 13, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted August 13, 2022 (edited) Some update on my end, soldering new mosfets was a failure, old mosfets did not want to come out cleanly, problem being the design is to dissipate the heat in that area quickly I guess so desoldering the pretty big areas was not going smoothly with the tools I had. Good news is I was able to source a new driver board and put that in and the wheel lives again! Going to finish reassembly tomorrow and do a proper test drive. Edited August 13, 2022 by chanman 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Begodecrashtestdummy Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 On 7/7/2022 at 1:49 PM, macgyvercanada said: Hi all. I just finished up a mid-afternoon commute to the office on my V11. Beautiful day, lovely temperature, smooth ride. I got to the door, hopped off, popped the trolly handle and used my keycard on the door. As I waved to a co-worker the wheel... died. No sounds or anything, just dead. Now there's zero sign of life when I hit the power button. Has anyone come up with a troubleshooting checklist for this sort of issue? I did check the electrical connector between the saddle assembly and the body; seemed fine. Not sure where to go from there.... help! Do your batteries have safety fuses ?? Mine has 30 amp fuses on each battery and when they happen to blow your wheel will not power on .I lost the capacitors on the motherboard which must have sent a power spike towards the batteries luckily the safety fuses blew instead of the batteries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 On 8/25/2022 at 7:03 PM, Dosingpsychedelics said: Do your batteries have safety fuses ?? Mine has 30 amp fuses on each battery and when they happen to blow your wheel will not power on .I lost the capacitors on the motherboard which must have sent a power spike towards the batteries luckily the safety fuses blew instead of the batteries Well the wheel's still showing decent voltage at both capacitors so I don't think it's battery-related. Anyway, the new mobo arrived yesterday and I'm going to get that installed tonight! Will keep y'all posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted August 29, 2022 Author Share Posted August 29, 2022 Today I replaced my old v0.7 motherboard with a new v2.1 motherboard from Aliexpress. Quote You did not check the small battery on the board till now, did you? No I did not. But while I'm here... I checked the voltage on the old on-board battery and it reads at 2.47V. It's spot-welded and laquered into place and the tab is covering the manufacturer's stamp, so I'm not sure what the voltage is supposed to be. I suppose I could cut it out of there... The less-interesting side of the new board features what appears to be a 5.5V 1.0F capacitor in the top right corner. The opposite side of the v2.1 board looks pretty much the same as the v0.7 one. Plugged in the replacement board, then plugged in the first battery connector. The board immediately popped on some green LEDs and made some electronics'y sounds... much like the sounds a wheel makes when it's stationary and trying to self-balance. This was not expected. It sounded like the wheel was on. I righted the wheel but it wasn't actively self-balancing, plus the headlight & fan were off, etc. I plugged in the other battery connector, righted the wheel, and held down the power button.No response. Drat. Plugged in the killswitch cable and tried again. Nada. I then set to examining the green LEDs. They are labeled D5 and DS201 on the old board (if I'm looking at the right components). Both remained on after disconnecting both batteries from the new board with some erratic blinking, so they had some feed from the capacitor(s) but not sure why they wer glitching out. Unfortunately I can't find any reference to their purpose on the internet. TLDR; replaced my V11 motherboard and all I got was this crappy light show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 (edited) Light show is a good thing I think, at least being on or blinking regular anyway. Did you try to connect via bluetooth and/or plugging in the charger at some point? Edited August 30, 2022 by chanman 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Lights on but power button not pressed and not connected to charger: suspect Not self balancing: it's a new motherboard, might it be in transport mode? Power button doesn't turn it off: also suspect Can you connect to it with the IM app when the light show is going? That might provide some clues. At least the motherboard is partly alive. But I think it's a bad replacement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 On 8/29/2022 at 9:37 PM, Tawpie said: Lights on but power button not pressed and not connected to charger: suspect Not self balancing: it's a new motherboard, might it be in transport mode? Power button doesn't turn it off: also suspect Can you connect to it with the IM app when the light show is going? That might provide some clues. At least the motherboard is partly alive. But I think it's a bad replacement. Well this was good advice. I reconnected the batteries and booted up the IM app, which connected right away. The wheel was indeed in transport mode, but when I unlocked it I got this diagnostic error. Womp womp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Hmm, assuming you have everything connected up correctly I'd take that at face value I suppose. Interesting if there's a failure in the driver board not MOSFET related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Make sure your firmware is up to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 2, 2022 Author Share Posted September 2, 2022 57 minutes ago, Paradox said: Make sure your firmware is up to date. Firmware was indeed up-to-date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 2, 2022 Author Share Posted September 2, 2022 (edited) The battery connectors just arced upon connection... that can't be right, can it? The motherboard is getting powered-up as soon as the first battery gets connected. That can't be right either. The power button... it does nothing!! Edited September 2, 2022 by macgyvercanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 16 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: Firmware was indeed up-to-date. When you replace a board it may have an older firmware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 (edited) 22 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: The battery connectors just arced upon connection... that can't be right, can it Neither of my KS wheels arc when I connect the batteries, but there may be large value input caps on your board that are getting charged up upon connection. Can you unplug the power button? Then if it still powers up I'd be back on the phone with our reseller. If it doesn't power up you'll still be on the phone with them cuz the button is broke but… Edited September 2, 2022 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 2, 2022 Author Share Posted September 2, 2022 8 hours ago, Paradox said: When you replace a board it may have an older firmware. The replacement board came with up-to-date firmware. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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