macgyvercanada Posted September 2, 2022 Author Share Posted September 2, 2022 8 hours ago, Tawpie said: Can you unplug the power button? Then if it still powers up I'd be back on the phone with our reseller. If it doesn't power up you'll still be on the phone with them cuz the button is broke but… I don't think that's the issue... The wheel isn't really powered on, eg: isn't self-balancing, no lights, no fan, etc. It's just the motherboard that's being activated as far as I can tell. But to be more certain, I did unplug the power button from the mainboard and... no change in behaviour.Another item of note: with the replacement motherboard installed, once the battery gets connected I now get some resistance when rotating the wheel. Did I blow a MOSFET?? I mean, consider that my wheel failed while being gently trolleyed through an office building doorway at perhaps 2 km/h... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 9 hours ago, Tawpie said: Neither of my KS wheels arc when I connect the batteries, but there may be large value input caps on your board that are getting charged up upon connection. Mine 18xl "sparks" each time i connect first battery pack. As the caps are completely empty. (I see lightning and it does little "Phop" sound effect.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 (edited) 26 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: Another item of note: with the replacement motherboard installed, once the battery gets connected I now get some resistance when rotating the wheel. Did I blow a MOSFET?? I mean, consider that my wheel failed while being gently trolleyed through an office building doorway at perhaps 2 km/h... How much "resistance" aka magnets catching magnet. Or like "breaking" would be activated? Much harder to spin, verses when you didn't have the batteries connected? Just a quick question.. Are you 100% sure you connected everything back to the new motherboard as it SHOULD be?? Is there even no 0.0001% chance of doing something wrong? Edited September 2, 2022 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 2, 2022 Author Share Posted September 2, 2022 58 minutes ago, Funky said: How much "resistance" aka magnets catching magnet. Or like "breaking" would be activated? Much harder to spin, verses when you didn't have the batteries connected? It's a mild resistance, not as strong as braking. I can test a bit more later; was in a hurry this morning. 59 minutes ago, Funky said: Just a quick question.. Are you 100% sure you connected everything back to the new motherboard as it SHOULD be?? Is there even no 0.0001% chance of doing something wrong? Never 100% sure, but this ain't rocket appliances. Things got re-plugged in reverse order to their unplugging. I'll 2x check later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 3, 2022 Author Share Posted September 3, 2022 There's no extra resistance when plugged in vs. unplugged, and the bit of 'cogging' I felt was from the nubs on the tires (duh). It certainly looks to me like everything is connected properly; I checked all the plugs on the mobo. Anything else I could consider before I order a new driver board..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 5, 2022 Author Share Posted September 5, 2022 (edited) Last call for thoughtful words of wisdom before I drop $330 CAD on AliExpress...EDIT: I've also noticed that you can buy the driver with the backplate ($410 CAD) or without ($330 CAD). Is it worth $80 to avoid messing around with the backplate?EDIT 2: Just found Tips for Switching Control Board (Driver Board) - InMotion V11 on YouTube Edited September 5, 2022 by macgyvercanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 (edited) Check this out. Maybe helps? Do you really need to contact the Inmotion it self, when changing mobo? Edited September 5, 2022 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, macgyvercanada said: EDIT: I've also noticed that you can buy the driver with the backplate ($410 CAD) or without ($330 CAD). Is it worth $80 to avoid messing around with the backplate? If you poke around my posts, I've been very very concerned about the V11 and V12's technique for attaching to the heatsink... if the price diff gets you a control board that's already mounted to the heatsink, it's a good spend of 80CAD. IM tried sending replacement V12 boards without the heatsink and quickly determined that they really needed to do the assembly at the factory—do it myself people were likely to screw it up. I am assuming that "backplate" means the heatsink though. Find the driver board replacement videos and verify that there isn't another thing mounted to the driver (I think there is). If the ali backplate is NOT the heatsink, I'd save the money because that other plate isn't a big deal other than getting the thermal pad/goop on properly. Oops. You're buying the main board, not the driver (brain fart, apologies). I wouldn't spend extra for that backplate! Edited September 5, 2022 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 5, 2022 Author Share Posted September 5, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Tawpie said: Oops. You're buying the main board, not the driver (brain fart, apologies). I wouldn't spend extra for that backplate! Well, no... I already bought and installed the motherboard; see previous posts. EDIT: There's not much consistancy in naming these parts, even on Ali Express. For reference I'm calling the top-layer board the motherboard and the one mounted below with all the MOFSETS and big capacitors I am calling the driver board. Let me know if I'm off-base here Edited September 5, 2022 by macgyvercanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 ok... if you're replacing the driver board, choose the option to get one with the heatsink attached. It's my personal opinion that mechanical alignment issues between the MOSFETs and the heatsink can induce unwanted stresses in the MOSFETs, potentially leading to early failure. Getting everything properly lined up and screwed into place without stressing the MOSFET leads is something that I believe needs to be done at the factory, using tooling. It's not something I would want to have done at home! It surely is possible to do it yourself, many have been very successful. But for 80CAD, I'd get it 'pre-done'! Any chance an onshore supplier can get you one? Then you might have warranty protection. The Ali price doesn't seem that great to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 5, 2022 Author Share Posted September 5, 2022 (edited) 7 hours ago, Funky said: Check this out. Maybe helps? Yeah, if nothing else it prompted me to screencap the status screens from the app. Not much registering, which I suppose is to be expected if the driver board isn't communicating. From what that video is saying, I am now wondering if that is intentional by Inmotion to limit the damage done by idiots like me from ordering & installing counterfeit parts..? After all that, I think my next step is to cut out & replace the battery from the old motherboard...EDIT: The battery is epoxied onto the board and coated with laquer and spot-welded to the tab... and I don't think it's going anywhere. Might it be possible to... charge it? Edited September 5, 2022 by macgyvercanada 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 That's so messed up it's like, crazy. 80C temperatures? No possible way. 0V on both batteries, obviously not correct but they are also disabled so I'd guess the main board isn't communicating with them. I wouldn't buy a driver board until you're sure your main board is actually working, and from the looks of those screenshots and since you've double and triple checked that everything is plugged in properly I'd say "it's not working—properly". I don't suppose the diagnostics page has anything interesting does it? This might be something to call/email InMotion directly on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 5, 2022 Author Share Posted September 5, 2022 I figure 80'C is some default, since it's reading the same on every sensor. And yeah, the diagnostics page shows a comms error to the driver board; I posted a screenshot on Thursday Sept 1st. I sent emails to Inmotion earlier today, we'll see what they say but my wheel isn't under warranty. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 13, 2022 Author Share Posted September 13, 2022 (edited) UPDATE: Been emailing back and forth with Inmotion. I explained the issue, directed them to this thread, and sent screenshots from the IM app. So far their reply has essentially been, "Sounds like it's broken, you should ship it out for repairs". Yeah... thanks. Edited September 13, 2022 by macgyvercanada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted September 13, 2022 Share Posted September 13, 2022 (edited) Lame. Well if you're going for a new driver board I think I would try to buy from a local distributor instead of aliexpress, that should get you some more reliable contacts for troubleshooting or returning if it doesn't solve the problem, and a quicker delivery time. I didn't get the choice of with or without heatsink, just came with it. There's some extra disassembly steps to take off the headlight and taillight assemblies so you can get to the heatsink screws, without it you can simply undo the mosfet screws and swap the boards, but you have to be careful in doing so and making sure the thermal contacts are all good and also not shorted to the heatsink. Edited September 13, 2022 by chanman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted September 18, 2022 Author Share Posted September 18, 2022 Hall sensor? Met a electric scooter repair enthusiast the other day who suggested that a hall sensor wired in backwards might cause the mobo behaviour observed, eg: on as soon as connected to battery. Is that... sensible? And how/where can that be tested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted October 12, 2022 Author Share Posted October 12, 2022 UPDATE: After some emails with Inmotion they sent me to the dealer who sold my wheel to its original owner. Nobody seems to interested in exploring this remotely, and I don't really feel like boxing up the wheel and shipping it 6,000km to the dealer. So while shopping around for driver boards I found this video of a fella whose wheel also died at low speed. He started off with a driver board replacement and got sorta the opposite symptoms that I have: Driver board lights up (mine is dead) Mainboard is dead (mine lights up) Power button still works (mine doesn't) Can't connect to the app (I can) Logical leap says that I should be good if I replace the driver board, so I've ordered the part. Will keep you posted... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Begodecrashtestdummy Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 31 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: UPDATE: After some emails with Inmotion they sent me to the dealer who sold my wheel to its original owner. Nobody seems to interested in exploring this remotely, and I don't really feel like boxing up the wheel and shipping it 6,000km to the dealer. So while shopping around for driver boards I found this video of a fella whose wheel also died at low speed. He started off with a driver board replacement and got sorta the opposite symptoms that I have: Driver board lights up (mine is dead) Mainboard is dead (mine lights up) Power button still works (mine doesn't) Can't connect to the app (I can) Logical leap says that I should be good if I replace the driver board, so I've ordered the part. Will keep you posted... Do your batteries have 30amp safety fuses that protect the batteries ??I have a different wheel and did a swap cuz I blew two capacitors on my main board and couldnt figure out why it wouldn’t then power up or even spark when I reconnected the battery to the xt90 connector . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 Quote Do your batteries have 30amp safety fuses that protect the batteries ??I have a different wheel and did a swap cuz I blew two capacitors on my main board and couldnt figure out why it wouldn’t then power up or even spark when I reconnected the battery to the xt90 connector . The 30A fuses on the original mainboard were fine, and the driver board is still getting amps from both batteries; definitely sparky when they get connected. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboFixIt Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 21 minutes ago, macgyvercanada said: batteries; definitely sparky when they get connected. That does happen a lot it's called "arcing" there's way's to work around it but seems like it's not something that's really being looked at very much. I noticed this happen a lot with the s22's, I have worked on a few of them and they all have this issue with the "arcing" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEUCMan Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 9/2/2022 at 3:38 AM, Funky said: Mine 18xl "sparks" each time i connect first battery pack. As the caps are completely empty. (I see lightning and it does little "Phop" sound effect.) This used to happen to me with older scooters. So, I developed the habit of praying a little before plugging in any chargers. "Dios te salve, María, Llena eres de gracia ..." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 7 hours ago, MrEUCMan said: "Dios te salve, María, Llena eres de gracia ..." My poor english equivalent: "oh mighty machine…" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post macgyvercanada Posted October 25, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 25, 2022 SUCCESS after the replacement of the driver/control board!! I ordered a board mounted to a new heat sink and, despite the amount of wheel disassembly required to access the heat sink screws, I'd still recommend replacing the whole thing rather than trying to remove and re-mount the board onto the old heat sink. The old v1.0 board is on the left, and the new v2.0 board is on the right: As others have suggested, I highly recommend labelling all wires while disassembling the electronics: The one issue I ran into is that the holes for the brass posts weren't totally aligned, and required some gentle persuasion to get them screwed-in. One of those posts didn't appreciate my methods and the threads broke off, but the motherboard seems stable enough with only the three remaining posts holding it. Once assembled I ran a few tests to make sure it was balancing, that I was getting good voltage, etc... and then I took 'er on a 10km test ride! Still had to tweak a few settings through the app but she's running perfectly once again! It's not easy to find guides on V11 electronics repairs, so I will post some of the web resources that I'd used to figure out this repair process. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 (edited) Very nice, FYI if the motherboard standoff is eating at you it should be a generic and replaceable part, not quite sure of the size, I think M3, so something like this should have you covered. https://www.amazon.com/Csdtylh-Male-Female-Standoff-Stainless-Assortment/dp/B06Y5TJXY1 but you might be better off measuring the length and width to be sure. Edited October 25, 2022 by chanman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macgyvercanada Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 As promised, some additional repair resources: Inmotion France - maintenance tutorials Downloadable PDF guides for repairs to various Inmotion wheels. The only V11 guide was for motor replacement, but this is still a decent resource. I found this in: Unventor's Big Guide Collection EUCO's How To: Replace V11 Control Board Has some good info but glosses over a few of the important pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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