Inmotion V13 Speculation

[CrabChampion]

On 3/31/2023 at 8:55 PM, mrelwood said:

The “Fancy mode” On the V13 requires 700km ridden, a signed liability waiver, and a manual application. This month two of the many that applied were chosen. In my understanding if all goes well, next month some new guys will be chosen again.

 There’s conflicting information flying around about what the Fancy Mode actually includes though. Some even say that the speed limit would be removed altogether, but that sounds so un-Inmotional that I’m expecting it to be a speed limit moved up to 100km/h or something like that.

One of the chosen guys with fancy mode is actually local to me. He said the mode includes no more tiltback at 90kmh. More torque from the bottom end all the way to the top end so the wheel is more responsive and should get a higher average speed. The beeper is now much louder. So they basically made the wheel a-la begode style. But he says he highly doubts that this firmware will be released to the public

[novazeus]

16 minutes ago, Cobaltsaber said:

One of the chosen guys with fancy mode is actually local to me. He said the mode includes no more tiltback at 90kmh. More torque from the bottom end all the way to the top end so the wheel is more responsive and should get a higher average speed. The beeper is now much louder. So they basically made the wheel a-la begode style. But he says he highly doubts that this firmware will be released to the public

they can keep the higher speed, but i'd like more torque. but it's fine the way it is if they'll kill the pop up ads linked to amazon. 

[HEC]

18 hours ago, novazeus said:

i hope bob yan reads this forum and he stops with the pop up’s pimping his scooter. i start out in a good mood but then get pissed off after a dozen attempts of trying to close the pop up, and when i finally close it, i lose part of the connection to the wheel. still connected but mph is no longer working. please, no commercials in the app. just try to make it work correctly please. ur pissing off people!

I never used Inmotion (or any other manufacturer's) app for actual riding, only to update firmware or to set the advanced custom settings like side LEDs patterns or custom sounds. For everything else I'm 3rd party, currently EUC World (and prior that Wheel log).

Edited April 2, 2023 by HEC

[HEC]

7 hours ago, novazeus said:

they can keep the higher speed, but i'd like more torque. but it's fine the way it is if they'll kill the pop up ads linked to amazon. 

Wild guess, but (apart of switching to alternative app), perhaps turning off the internet while riding, or at least blocking it for Inmotion app, will block the adds? I haven't seen the single add to pop up on mine so far, but I'm nit really using it while riding either. 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

Ok so, 236 miles and I'm not very exited about the factory Yuanxing tire. So i took mine apart again to change it and have discovered a few things. First off the dampening shocks are leaking oil. (already) So they suck, it's to bad i was enjoying the suspension. I took my v11 for a ride the other day and couldn't believe the difference. It was like a kids toy, felt super sketchy at 32mph. Anyway, i also noticed that the wheel hub has a raised edge around where the bearing race seats. This edge is digging into the slide rails. It looks to me like an edge left over from the casting and the hub is not exactly round so it's hitting in only a few spots. I am wondering if i should grind the lip off on either side but i will wait to see what Inmotion says. The bolts were not loose and there doesn't seem to be any end play in the shaft. Still was using the original bolts and the contact pattern on the angle looks fine. There is also no wear in the recessed area on the slide or deformation on the rail holes. So i don't think it was moving around on the shaft. Now maybe a few grooves in the slide rails aren't the end of the world but since the wheel weighs 115lbs and goes 55mph, i would think this is a bit of an oversight. The tolerances should be better on a $4k wheel. I looked back on the disassembly vids and you can see it there also.... I will let everyone know how this turns out and add an abridged version to useful information when we find a solution.

 

[Josiah]

21 hours ago, A High Roller said:

The washer is still stuck on the wrong side of the case.

Hey sorry this is so stressful.  I’ve got some issues with mine also.  Need to replace the shocks that I damaged during motor bolt swap and also have a bad driver board.  Still waiting on parts.

If you want dm me and we can work remotely on them together.  Also we can follow @Punxatawneyjoe’s tips and tricks.  I’ve got some other ideas also.  Like maybe wrap or just scrunch some duct tape around the shaft/body to hold it steady while you loosen the bolt.

Don’t give up. 
 

[Josiah]

Just got the board!  Might go for the swap soon. 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

22 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Just got the board!

That looks like an oftly big box for just the control board.

[Josiah]

Do you think I’ve got the wrong part?  This is the raptor controller. 
 

Edited April 2, 2023 by Josiah

[Josiah]

Raptor controller is also caulked down.

also just noticed why it was hard to set the top cover back.  I was pinching the left charging cable.

Edited April 2, 2023 by Josiah

[Josiah]

I had to carefully and lightly razor the clear silicone around the perimeter of the board in order to remove it, and the underside looks like it had some type of soft non curing sealant or grease as well.

[Cerbera]

Just now, Josiah said:

soft non curing sealant or grease as well.

That might be thermal paste for heat transfer. Important to check that before you install new one, as you can't just plonk the new one down on top of it - you need a new layer of thermal paste ! If IM were clever they would have put some in your box with the Raptor ! If not, it'll be the same stuff you use in PCs for the processor fans and you can buy syringes of it.... you'll be needing a large one !

Edited April 2, 2023 by Cerbera

[rebeuc]

1 minute ago, Cerbera said:

3 minutes ago, Josiah said:

soft non curing sealant or grease as well.

That might be thermal paste for heat transfer. Important to check that before you install new one, as you can't just plonk the new on down on top of it - you need a new layer of thermal paste !

That absolutely looks like thermal paste to me

[Josiah]

new board is in.  I might redo this with more past and sealant soon.  Also this 12 amp mini with low speed and torque settings really helped.

[rebeuc]

1 minute ago, Josiah said:

new board is in.  I might redo this with more past and sealant soon.

Make sure to monitor your board temps for a while to make sure the heat is dissipating correctly

[Cerbera]

Just now, Josiah said:

new board is in.  I might redo this with more past and sealant soon.  Also this 12 amp mini with low speed and torque settings really helped.

Careful !!! If you turn on a PC without new layer of thermal paste it will instantly fry the processor, or result in immediate shutdown...........

The results on the wheel may take longer to show themselves but are orders of magnitude more disastrous, so I am duty bound to recommend you don't ride that until it has got the new paste. That is NOT an optional thing.

Edited April 2, 2023 by Cerbera

[Josiah]

I think this is the wire path that I messed up before now it’s behind the metal retainer post and the plastic hold down.

[rebeuc]

Just now, Cerbera said:

Careful !!! If you turn on a PC without new layer of sealant it will instantly fry the processor, or result in immediate shutdown.

This is generally not true with modern processors, though it is still a really bad idea to not have proper transfer. It may or may not be fine, and the existing leftover paste may or may not be enough. It takes time for the mosfets to heat, and one can monitor in the app to make sure the board isn't getting too hot.

(FWIW modern processors will generally downclock substantially but still work to some extent, but yes not something I would do and it can lead to damage)

[Josiah]

Can I get thermal paste at an auto part store?

[rebeuc]

Just now, Josiah said:

Can I get thermal paste at an auto part store?

I'm not sure if you can find it at auto stores, but I know PC-type stores would have it. (Microcenter if you have one near you, best buy might, certainly Amazon has it)

I don't think you need to be too picky on brand (PC enthusiasts will often swear by one or the other, but for something like this especially with that sheer amount involved I would probably go by the less expensive option)

[Punxatawneyjoe]

That's what i was afraid of when i saw the box, that absolutely is thermal paste and needs to have the exact same amount put back. I mentioned it to jason when he sent me the same board without it. You could easily end up with a hot spot and fry something if you don't use the same amount.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

31 minutes ago, Josiah said:

 I was pinching the left charging cable.

That cable tucks behind a plastic tab on the controller so that doesn't happen. there are 2 of them, one for each side.

you can see it in this picture it's a plastic dowel, the wire goes between that and the controller.

[Josiah]

Installed the controller, but it did not fix the problem.  I’ll go back and add thermal paste before riding. I also looked under the power button at the board there and I don’t see any sign of corrosion. Not sure why power button still acting weird and the motor won’t engage.
 

 

Edited April 2, 2023 by Josiah

[Punxatawneyjoe]

13 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Installed the controller, but it did not fix the problem.

Very sorry to hear this, my problem was the motherboard. It's the board under the board in the picture. I thought that was what they were sending you but evidently they did the same thing they did to me. i didn't honestly think the raptor controller was bad but i changed it anyway and it didn't help me either. On the bright side you now have a replacement raptor controller like me... I know it is frustrating, Hopefully Jason has the motherboard in stock, mine had to come from Inmotion. The display board in the picture looks fine, but i'm no expert. I think the problem with those was solved before we got ours.

[novazeus]

5 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Very sorry to hear this, my problem was the motherboard. It's the board under the board in the picture. I thought that was what they were sending you but evidently they did the same thing they did to me. i didn't honestly think the raptor controller was bad but i changed it anyway and it didn't help me either. On the bright side you now have a replacement raptor controller like me... I know it is frustrating, Hopefully Jason has the motherboard in stock, mine had to come from Inmotion. The display board in the picture looks fine, but i'm no expert. I think the problem with those was solved before we got ours.

yeah, i hate hearing about these problems as well. i'm glad inmotion is stepping up with trying to help fix their product.

i would like to know, if u have any idea what is causing these wheels to be rebuilt. 

not saying ur wheels are abused, but used differently from the way i use my v13, ie no jumps, no stairs, no rough handling at all. my v13 is strictly a pavement wheel. no offroad at all. do u think the v13 isn't robust enough for the treatment it's getting? although that demo wheel has been through hell and i don't think it's had controllers and motherboards replaced.