alcatraz

Raise those braking pads to increase leverage and reduce force needed.

Sure it's more power. The heat is generated by the current in the motor windings. If the current stays the same, running a 168v wheel's motor at 210v equals more power.

Is it possible you swapped the left/right covers? That could also be it. That they aren't identical.

That means that the bearing spacing could have been altered. Not necessarily by you but by the rotor change that the covers bolt onto. There shouldn't be any axial play after the covers are bolted. It is usually taken out by a shim between the bearings and the "axle". Behind the bearing that is. Is it possible there was one and it fell off when you had the covers off? It's the same diameter as the bearing inner diameter, and is sometimes very thin, much less than a millimeter. Like a disc basically.

I'm amazed at people who don't slow down even when they're given way, be it by green light or vehicle waiting to cut in front. How do you know someone won't cut in front? The traffic rules won't save your life.

I'd also like to make a tiny point for you guys. If you fit a heavy duty tubeless WIDE tire, you won'r get all the comfort that a softer non tubeless tire gives you. Not even close. It'll feel more like a hard pumped 2.125in tire when it comes to comfort (regardless of air pressure). If you're a heavier rider looking to get more handling, grip, safety, mileage etc, sure run the tubeless. If your aim is comfort, stay away from it.

I know noone asked but I'll just report that on the MCM5 v1 a 2.5in tire (cst non tubeless) fits if you trim the shell a little with a dremel. The modification is just around the footrest area and does not require you to take the wheel apart or raise it = easy mod.

Did you open the motor to replace the rim or is it bolted on externally? Check for clearance between valve/tire and shell. Touching should leave scratches or at least lack of dirt. It helps to have a dirty wheel when looking for contact.

For anybody that wants to ride an msx a ton of km, check all the mosfet bolts that they're tight. Those components need proper cooling.

I'm north of 16000km on my msx and my dream is to pass 25000-30000km.

That's interesting. The practice is seen as clever but in this case it might have made things worse.

Higher voltage means more power, but not more maximum torque. (power = speed, torque = acceleration/heavier rider) So you can raise the speed limit on existing motors without increasing the motor's weight. (Provided there's enough torque to balance the rider.) Whatever torque you have at low speeds a high voltage upgrade will extend that torque to higher speeds. I call it stretching the power curve. I'm not an engineer but this is my understanding.

The use of nominal voltage is actually quite annoying when buying chargers. It can be very confusing. "72v and 84v are the same."

Is it possible that dropping off curbs and going down stairs is how you move the tire off center?

How sure are you that your cells are balanced? The balancing currents provided by the stock bms' aren't designed to take out larger imbalances so it's important to charge to 100% frequently. Especially with older packs. It will impact your safety margin because the voltage sag will be greater with unbalanced cells. Let's say you have most groups at 3.7v and two groups at 3.5v. When you accelerate the higher groups keep up but the lower two dip down below 3.0v.