blerti zhuta Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Hello riders, i have this issue with my master whenever i turn on my wheel and try to push it forward or backwards it starts shaking violently and i am not sure why and hope anyone to shed some light into the problem. Here is a brief history of the wheel. I got the wheel December of 2022 from E-rides and there was an issue with the bluetooth module not connecting to the phone which i managed to fix with their assistance by just cleaning up the silicone and since then the wheel has been fine apart from having to open the wheel and reconnect the bluetooth module from time to time because it was loose after removing the silicone until about a month ago where the wheel started tilting back at about 10 km/h for not reason but after disconnecting the batteries it started working fine again until now. I have contacted E-rides to try to determine the issue of why it is shaking and they are stating that maybe there is a short circuit in the mainboard from the lights so what i have tried so far is removing the light connectors and the issue hasn't been resolved but it instead wasn't turning on at all , after a couple of tries it now turns on but still shaking .. so please help with any suggestions that you have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 This can be a sign of a loose control board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 (edited) Shaking wheels usually means motherboard / IMU is not being held perfectly still /fixed in its box. Does your mainboard seem firmly affixed, and are all the bolts holding it down nice and tight ? There should also be a gel pad between first and second board layers to help ensure that vibrations don't make it up to that top board either. Earlier versions of the Master (including mine) didn't have that, so when it happened to me after a service disassembly I had to pump a load of silicone between boards 1 and 2 to fix it. Edited April 20 by Cerbera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerti zhuta Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 I have checked the 4 screws of the board and they are very tight as for the top board there is no gel pad in between but there is silicone on the pins that are connecting it to the board underneath and it looks pretty sturdy, i can try and remove the top part of the board and try to apply more silicone but if it gets in the pins i am afraid it will cause even more trouble. Do you think maybe it could be a software issue of some sort? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 Does the wheel still balance? Is the tire rotating freely/normally when the wheel is off, or does it seem "locked"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 23 minutes ago, blerti zhuta said: Do you think maybe it could be a software issue of some sort? Probably not. If you do decide to silicone the boards you don't need to take the top one off to do it. You can just get the power board out of the way and squirt it in the gap that reveals. I didn't enjoy that 'heath-robinson' approach, but was following advice from a wheel tech, and it did indeed fix my problem. Though we should note that it sounds like my issue wasn't anywhere near as severe as yours though - I had sporadic vibration but it was at least ridable. The more severe the shakes are usually the more something is moving around. If it's not in your mainboard compartment I am not sure what else to suggest... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerti zhuta Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 So the movement that it is doing is basically when i try leaning forward the wheel does not balance for about 10 degree angle and then suddenly goes back to blancing furiously and i haven't tried riding it because i don't want to cause any damage to it , the tire doesn't seem to have any resistance while spinning when it is off. Does the silicone need to be a specific sort or just a regular one might just do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 I think your board is just in the process of dying and you need a new one. That's usually the explanation for "unexplained crazy behavior". I don't think any silicone can fix this, this would only help when the board is very very lightly loose and would therefore slightly move. 10 degrees is way way way beyond that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerti zhuta Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 3 hours ago, Cerbera said: Probably not. If you do decide to silicone the boards you don't need to take the top one off to do it. You can just get the power board out of the way and squirt it in the gap that reveals. I didn't enjoy that 'heath-robinson' approach, but was following advice from a wheel tech, and it did indeed fix my problem. Though we should note that it sounds like my issue wasn't anywhere near as severe as yours though - I had sporadic vibration but it was at least ridable. The more severe the shakes are usually the more something is moving around. If it's not in your mainboard compartment I am not sure what else to suggest... Do you have any pictures or video of your mainboard that you can share? Maybe i can replicate what you have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted April 20 Share Posted April 20 39 minutes ago, blerti zhuta said: Do you have any pictures or video of your mainboard that you can share? Maybe i can replicate what you have done. I was hoping I could do better than that and show you a video of my tech guy actually doing it, but I think it went up unlisted, and damned if I can find the link to it now... Here's a pic of the gel pad in newer Masters and where it sits between boards... What you do is carefully remove the power board (orange arrow) slightly lift the 2 big capacitors that are in the way and then squirt the silicone directly into the small gap behind them, between the 2 boards (green arrow). Unlike in the photo below, you should move your display board out of the way completely - the silicone is going between the layer under that and the one under it. The pad is by far the more 'professional' solution if you can get one, but I went the squirty way, and mine's been fine for over 6 months now... Hope that helps ! Cerbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerti zhuta Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 Cerbera thanks for taking the time to explain it in detail , i just checked and my mainboard actually has those gel pads so i am not sure if filling that void with silicone will make any difference.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 6 minutes ago, blerti zhuta said: Cerbera thanks for taking the time to explain it in detail , i just checked and my mainboard actually has those gel pads so i am not sure if filling that void with silicone will make any difference.. I agree. This would suggest your problem is something else, but I am afraid that puts us back to square 1, because I have no idea what else it could be ! :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 (edited) Just for shit's and giggles.. Have you tried recalibrating your wheels gyro? In APP where you need to have wheel completely in level position - it turns off/on.. Have you tried that? Also are there any loose screws around the part that hold upper EUC body onto suspension/pedals? Also my understanding that "gel" pad is so board don't vibrate while going over bumps? Or for what? (In case it is just that - it needs to be snugly fitted in there.. Otherwise the board still can vibrate.. Adding a dab of silicone may actually help.) I personally would remove the board make that "gel" pad thicker by simply smearing some layer of silicone - let it try - then put it all together. Otherwise if you simply "PUSH" silicone in there, it will stick to those capacitors? Meaning you will have problems in future, if you ever want to remove the board. Or simply add very small dab of silicone - that can be easily cut, if you ever need to remove board. Edited April 21 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerti zhuta Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 No i haven't tried recalibrating the wheel but today i updated the firmware and the update was done just fine but still the same results the wheel is still shaking and it scares the s**t out of me when it does that , there are no loose screws i have double checked all of them i am not sure what else to try .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 (edited) 12 minutes ago, blerti zhuta said: No i haven't tried recalibrating the wheel but today i updated the firmware and the update was done just fine but still the same results the wheel is still shaking and it scares the s**t out of me when it does that , there are no loose screws i have double checked all of them i am not sure what else to try .. Update is an update. Try recalibration.. (One doesn't mean other.) Or "hard" reset - idk how it's done on Begode wheels.. (Trying easy things first is the best, before going in wheel itself.) Edited April 21 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 A loose board doesn't mean the bolts holding the board are the only problem. There can't be any play between the board and the motor. Anything and everything between the motor and the control board can be loose. So start by checking/tightening all the axle bolts, frame bolts, board compartment bolts. Check for cracks too. If all the bolts are tight there might be a crack somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerti zhuta Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 I took the mainboard to an electrician and what we found out was that one of the pins that attach the upper board and the lower board was completely detached and if anyone has a detailed blueprint of the master v2 mainboard please feel free to post it here. So the 1st right pin of the black plastic that i am holding is detached and i am guessing that is causing the issue but if anyone has any suggestions please comment. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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