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Fire prevention


JonasJ

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I read some in the fire history thread.

Would love for us to gather what we know that will prevent fire in the battery/lower the risk for fire in the battery.

 

What it seems like from what I read. This is mainly questions though for you more knowledgeable, I'm very new to this.

- Don't do battery modifications.

- Don't charge when you've just come home from a ride, wait an hour or so. Is this about letting it reach room temperature?

- If you've had a crash, the battery is susceptible for fire, so change battery pack?

- Store out of reach from flammable materials.

- To high or to low temperatures?

- If you don't charge it to 100%, make sure to do that a least one out of ten times.

 

What else do we know?

Edited by RagingGrandpa
(clarified title)
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2 hours ago, JonasJ said:

- Don't charge when you've just come home from a ride, wait an hour or so. Is this about letting it reach room temperature?

For extreme conditions like winter, yes. But more commonly to let the battery chemistry to settle down.

2 hours ago, JonasJ said:

- If you've had a crash, the battery is susceptible for fire, so change battery pack?

The batteries are well protected on most wheels, so it would need a pretty tragic crash to damage them. Any kind of water intrusion avoidance is much more important.

2 hours ago, JonasJ said:

What else do we know?

- Whenever the wheel stops charging to the full original voltage (+/- 0.5V), react and inspect immediately!

- If the wheel alerts for a voltage difference between the packs, watch the voltages like a hawk. 0.5V difference is normal, 1V is uncommon, and above 2V is alarming. Stop riding and charging, and investigate!

- Don’t ride in the rain unless you are certain about your wheel’s water protection levels.

- Don’t store a wet wheel on it’s side. The water can seep and drip into the batteries.

- Don’t try to charge faster than 0.5C rate (for example 10A on S22), or what your wheel and it’s connectors are rated for.

- Don’t brake hard (or for long) on full battery.

- Avoid the traditional GotWay/Begode 900Wh battery packs like plague!

Edited by mrelwood
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3 hours ago, JonasJ said:

- If you don't charge it to 100%, make sure to do that a least one out of ten times.

 

What else do we know?

Why not charge to 100% ?

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I don't charge until hours before I ride, especially in winter/cold conditions... And I just bought several fire blankets on Amazon to cover lithium fire to try to prevent spreading of the fire, spray water on blanket if you can....you can not put out a lithium fire... 

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4 hours ago, Robse said:

Why not charge to 100% ?

Charging only to 80% improves the overall battery life so that your range has dropped to 70% only after 60 000 km instead of 40 000 km (depending on the battery size).

 Whether that’s important or not depends on whether you plan to ride that far on your specific wheel. But never charging to 100% might kill your wheel as soon as 2000 km, which has already happened to one forum member.

More about 80% charging:

 

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Hey guys I normally never post anything... so thanks in advance for any help!

I have a batch 1 Begode Master from Eevees. Around 2000kms on it total.

So I got one out of the 4 battery packs that is consistently less voltage than the other 3. And this is only after I had a failed/ burned out motherboard from manufacturer defect of some kind. (The unit shut off on its own and wouldn't turn on and BMS from one pack(not the one in question) buzzed constantly... Happened about 10 seconds after taking a break and sitting down on a bench. Thankfully didn't happen going 60kph!) I found the varistor burned out upon inspection.

Anyways, eevees kindly sent me a new v3 board and display under warranty.

It's not a huge difference in voltage... But for example, if the 3 packs are 28.88v after a ride then one will be 28.77v

And also it won't charge to max voltage... I've left it to balance for like 4-5 hours after green light but I'm only getting up to around 131-132 volts max.

(It actually always charged to exactly 134.4v before this.)

I personally balanced all packs to be exactly the same to 2 decimal points with a high quality Snap-on multimeter and then either charged them, or balanced them to the lowest pack by discharging the other 3, and then went for a ride... And the one pack will always be different. After I charge or go for a ride right after balancing.

So I'm thinking the burned out motherboard perhaps affected the battery pack.

 

 

Should I be concerned is my real question and whats the advice if any ???

 

Thank you in advance!

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1 hour ago, captainproton said:

So I got one out of the 4 battery packs that is consistently less voltage than the other 3.

I think that 0.1V is too little to matter. We’ve seen way larger differences in Begodes many times already.

1 hour ago, captainproton said:

BMS from one pack(not the one in question) buzzed constantly

This sounds a little concerning. I’m not sure of all the situations when the Begode BMS starts buzzing, but I would think that none of them are trivial. Undervoltage for example can be quite harmful for the battery.

1 hour ago, captainproton said:

I'm only getting up to around 131-132 volts max.

I’m no expert on the modern Begodes, so we’ll have to wait for better answers. But to my understanding the previous charge board introduced this feature of not charging to full, and the latest one charges further but bleeds the packs down to around 131V.

 But if you didn’t replace the charge board, I guess it’s possible that the voltage measurement circuit on the new mainboard is just that much out of whack.

 Now let’s wait for more knowledgeable answers on the matter... :lol:

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1 hour ago, captainproton said:

And also it won't charge to max voltage... I've left it to balance for like 4-5 hours after green light but I'm only getting up to around 131-132 volts max.

Mine doesn't charge to max anymore either after nearly 2000 miles, but then it never did as I recall. Best I ever got was 134.0, and now I am lucky to get 133.2v.

And of course that is compounded if you have the newer charge boards which do 'phantom discharging' voltage bleed when the charger is not connected. The answer to that is to top up an hour or 2 before you ride, but it's mildly annoying that it happens anyway... electricity is expensive, and I want to hold on to all of it once I've got it !

Edited by Cerbera
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What should be at the top of your list is to simply charge to 100% every time and check that it stays at that (same) voltage after you disconnect the charger. This is how you detect a failure.

The other points in your list are examples on how to prevent failures. They help but failures can happen even if you follow all these points.

That's why early detection is important. 

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7 hours ago, Funky said:

Once/Twice a month quick power circle to check battery voltage. You lose about 1% over 4 months.

1% of what? Capacity? Sounds reasonable, although it varies hugely by other steps you take to preserve the battery.

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43 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

1% of what? Capacity? Sounds reasonable, although it varies hugely by other steps you take to preserve the battery.

1% of charge, when wheel is not in use. Of course it also varies hugely which wheel you have and if it doesn't have that dredged vampiric drain.

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