Convienient Method of Testing EUC Battery Health (after accident or pierodically)

[on one]

I checked the forums for a FAQ on this but I didn't find one. Please help me create one or direct me to the existing thread. Thanks.

[mrelwood]

Good thread.

If you own a V13, S22 or Z10, you can monitor battery pack health directly from the individual cell group voltages. If you don’t, some aspects of battery pack health can be determined by watching the maximum voltage the wheel charges to.

 Further than that, it probably gets rather tricky.

[Chriull]

8 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Further than that, it probably gets rather tricky

Euc world calculates the battery packs internal resistance after some riding.

This should be another indicator. With temperature wise increased values in winter time.

Logging the charging from time to time should show such, too. The relation of cc stage to cv stage changes over time - for the same charge current, of course.

As one can estimate the battery capacity from the log.

After an accident some thorough visual inspection should be done. Every denting makes a cell potentially unsafe. As loosened weldings are bad.

[Seba]

EUC World has two features that are helpful for monitoring and managing battery health. First is the charger control feature that allows you to use supported smartplug to control your charger, so you can terminate and disconnected charger at the end of charging or balancing phase (or earlier, at certain battery level, but this is not recommended). It also will create a graph that shows key charging parameters and log data in CSV file. Charging voltage and current curves gives a good insight to how battery works.

Second feature, as @Chriull wrote, is calculation of battery circuit resistance for certain wheels, other than Begode and Veteran. BCR is a good measure of battery state, especially with time. Soon EUC World will add option to show how BCR changed with time for your wheels.

[alcatraz]

Visually inspect control board, packs, internal compartments for contamination. Even if you don't drop your wheel I'd suggest to do this every 1000km or so.

Ensure bolts are tight. Ensure cooling of the mosfets is adequate. If they don't contact the heatsink properly, then it's a cutout waiting to happen.

Check that the wheel charges to the same voltage level as reported in euc world when the wheel was new. 

Edited June 2, 2023 by alcatraz

[alcatraz]

Packs can have impact damage, where heatshrink has worn off. 

Packs can start to corrode, you'll see some stuff growing under the heatshrink. The surface isn't smooth anymore. 

Packs can overheat in certain places. You'll see deformed or melted heatshrink. Burn marks.

Motor cables, battery cables can be charred if they're overloaded. Look for this.

Edited June 2, 2023 by alcatraz