Waulnut Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 (edited) I left my v12 at ~97V for approx two weeks. I recently turned it on to check the battery and the wheel gave me a battery fault warning. One pack seems to have died? The wheel turns on and tilts back due to the fault error. I've always charged my wheels a few hours over for balancing. inmotion app says one battery is disabled. I attached a screenshot. i will open up the wheel to test the voltage for each pack. Just wanted to see if anyone has an idea what this problem might be. I haven't had any issues with the battery before and there is ~1600 miles on this v2 control board. ~~~Update 3/11~~~ I got the wheel up and running. New battery from ewheels. I followed the step in the video below to check voltage of the pack. If it doesn't work, bms is dead I guess. When I plugged in the xt connector, it did create a spark which likely because the cables were charged(?). Otherwise, you can't read the voltage. I unplugged speakers and charged one pack up to get close to the new pack.Without unplugging the speaker, it will cause the alarm to continuously go off, but I'm not sure if accepting the warning on the screen can turn it off. Overall, it was not too bad for battery swap. I did charge the single pack outside just in case. The new battery pack had better wire management with a sleeve. Thanks all for joining this thread and all the help provided. Edited March 11, 2023 by Waulnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 Oh crap. 3.6v on the pack is indeed a failure. Better open it up and measure the leads to verify it isn't a report issue. You should be able to ride with a single pack at reduced max currents (easy riding). If 3.6v is indeed true then that's a LOT of charge that disappeared. Discharging that many watt hours of charge without engaging the motor would have left a mark. Warm/overheated components etc. I'm sort of leaning towards it not being true. Measure the packs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlau Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 (edited) You can try to "enable" the pack: with a spare wire, connect the anode (red wire of the big battery connector) to the red wire of the battery's other, smaller, 2-pin connector for ~30 seconds. I had to do exactly that to get the replacement battery activated (i.e. it measured 3,5V when it arrived, and after this "enabling" procedure, it measured ~95V on the big connector). EDIT: my really broken battery only measured 2,7V, and InMotion kindly sent me a free replacement Edited February 16, 2023 by mlau 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 13 hours ago, mlau said: You can try to "enable" the pack: with a spare wire, connect the anode (red wire of the big battery connector) to the red wire of the battery's other, smaller, 2-pin connector for ~30 seconds. I had to do exactly that to get the replacement battery activated (i.e. it measured 3,5V when it arrived, and after this "enabling" procedure, it measured ~95V on the big connector). EDIT: my really broken battery only measured 2,7V, and InMotion kindly sent me a free replacement Inmotion got back to me and they told me to swap the packs to see if it will work. Sounds like what you have suggested too. Just gotta find the time to sit down and open it now. 14 hours ago, alcatraz said: 3.6v is indeed true then that's a LOT of charge that disappeared. Discharging that many watt hours of charge without engaging the motor would have left a mark. Warm/overheated components etc. Inmotion support did say it might not be battery, which I hope isn't either. Who knows how long my wheel has been in the faulty state since my last ride. There's just so many screws on the v12 😓 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Maybe it's in some sort of transport mode like someone wrote. Well, if somehing could put you somewhat at ease it's that you're not the first one and not the last one. They've had to sort this problem before so hopefully they know a quick way to do it. If it's a safety feature that's malfunctioning, then it's bit ironic. Like, more complexity creates more failure modes. Let's see what they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyc1990 Posted February 19, 2023 Share Posted February 19, 2023 I'm having the same issue with my V12. I only had it for a few hours and I started getting the same error message then my wheel started tilting back when turned on.. I'm also unable to charge it, as soon as I plug it in an alarm sound will start going off and I get a similar error message on the touch screen. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share Posted February 21, 2023 On 2/19/2023 at 12:18 AM, rustyc1990 said: I'm having the same issue with my V12. I only had it for a few hours and I started getting the same error message then my wheel started tilting back when turned on.. I'm also unable to charge it, as soon as I plug it in an alarm sound will start going off and I get a similar error message on the touch screen. Ask your distributor to see what you should do. Mine is out of warranty so I'll just try what I can do fix mine if possible. I just tried to plug mine in today and the alarm was surprisingly loud. I've been procrastinating on working on my wheel since posting and discovery 😓. But I did start taking it apart now. My plan of action is test the batteries then if they are still equal and balanced, I'll swap the battery packs as recommended by ewheels and inmotion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 I finally got around to getting into my wheel. I was not able to check the voltage on the packs with my multimeter. If anyone knows how, let me know. I just stuck the probes into the xt connector, but it only shows 4.4v and 3.6v. My faulty right side was reconnected to the left and vice versa. In the app, right side fault showed up on the left. I did notice a change in the app reading was both packs showed Work Status: Normal. Previously, the faulty right side showed Work Status: Error. But the faulty pack voltage still reads 3.6v and the "good" pack is 95v. I replied to ewheels and inmotion so I'll see what's next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 (edited) I would lean towards BMS protections tripped and disconnected the cells over somehow whole pack drained to 3.6V out of nowhere I think, that would be a much more dramatic event. Either way this would indicate a real problem with the battery pack or some fault with the BMS though, you're probably looking at pack replacement if whatever procedure to reset BMS stuff doesn't work. Edited February 25, 2023 by chanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 2 hours ago, chanman said: I would lean towards BMS protections tripped and disconnected the cells over somehow whole pack drained to 3.6V out of nowhere I think, that would be a much more dramatic event. Either way this would indicate a real problem with the battery pack or some fault with the BMS though, you're probably looking at pack replacement if whatever procedure to reset BMS stuff doesn't work. Ewheels got back to me pretty quick and offered a fair discount for a new pack so I'll just get a new one. Super grateful for ewheels support. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Don't inmotion packs have the ability to turn off the main output? I'd guess it's that. It's stuck in an off position. The cells are possibly fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanman Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 (edited) Either the cells are fine and the BMS is broken (and a reset doesn't help) or at least one of the cells is not fine and the BMS is doing its job. Without the ability to tear apart the pack and diagnose cells and BMS, or replace BMS or individual cells, either way you're replacing the pack. Edited February 26, 2023 by chanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 24 minutes ago, chanman said: Either the cells are fine and the BMS is broken (and a reset doesn't help) or at least one of the cells is not fine and the BMS is doing its job. Without the ability to tear apart the pack and diagnose cells and BMS, or replace BMS or individual cells, either way you're replacing the pack. Yeah. I'm not skilled beyond screws and plugs so that's definitely not something I'll attempt to learn just to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlau Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 On 2/26/2023 at 3:14 AM, Waulnut said: Yeah. I'm not skilled beyond screws and plugs so that's definitely not something I'll attempt to learn just to fix. You can still try this if you've already opened up the wheel: 211_1669625865.mp4 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 3 hours ago, mlau said: You can still try this if you've already opened up the wheel: 211_1669625865.mp4 Cool thanks, I'll give it a try. I didn't completely disassemble out my battery yet so I'll have to find that small wire. For the connection, anything metal works touching red to red? Any precautions needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlau Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 4 hours ago, Waulnut said: Cool thanks, I'll give it a try. I didn't completely disassemble out my battery yet so I'll have to find that small wire. For the connection, anything metal works touching red to red? Any precautions needed? Yes, red to red for ~30 seconds. Don't touch the metal of the wire/tweezer if you can avoid it, ground yourself before you do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 6 hours ago, mlau said: Yes, red to red for ~30 seconds. Don't touch the metal of the wire/tweezer if you can avoid it, ground yourself before you do it. Tried using a tweezer like the vid, not getting the normal read out on the voltmeter 😥. Still seeing 3.8v on the bad pack. Also tried with a paperclip 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlau Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 Well then your battery is really broken, sorry. How much does a new pack cost, btw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted February 28, 2023 Author Share Posted February 28, 2023 11 hours ago, mlau said: Well then your battery is really broken, sorry. How much does a new pack cost, btw? It is $500. I got a good discount courtesy of ewheels awesome support despite my wheel being 1 year out of warranty. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted March 4, 2023 Author Share Posted March 4, 2023 Got my v12 replacement battery. Out of box, got a voltage reading of 97v. I checked my good left pack and did the red-red cable connection so I was able to read the voltage at 95.9V. I'll charge and balance before connecting both packs to the wheel. Hopefully, it won't set the alarm off for charging one pack only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waulnut Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 Updated main post. Wheel is fixed. Unplugged speaker to mute the alarm and charged one pack to get close voltage as the other. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altazin.steve@gmail.com Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 Le 28/02/2023 à 9h45, mlau a dit : Eh bien, votre batterie est vraiment cassée, désolé. Au fait, combien coûte un nouveau pack ? Salut, je viens. D'essayer ta méthode cela n'a pas fonctionné mais le pack qui me,paraissait en état et que j'ai déjà mesuré à 102 volts , je le mesure à un peu plus de 4 volts comme le pack qui a l'air vraiment défaillant , je reste quand même persuadé que cela ressemble plus à une sécurité bms,du pack batterie plus qu'à une vraie défaillance d'un ou plusieurs accumulateurs . Si tu n'as pas d'autre solution à moi,donner (moi ma roue ne s'allume plus et quand je branche le chargeur il,passe rouge à vert toutes les,secondes avec un claquement des haut-parleurs de la roue Bonjour, j'arrive. Pour essayer ta méthode ça n'a pas marché mais le pack qui me semblait en bon état et que j'ai déjà mesuré à 102 volts, je l'ai mesuré à un peu plus de 4 volts comme le pack qui semble vraiment défaillant, je reste quand même persuadé que cela ressemble plus à une sécurité bms, du pack batterie plus qu'à une réelle panne d'un ou plusieurs accumulateurs. Si vous n'avez pas d'autre solution à me proposer (ma roue ne s'allume plus et quand je branche le chargeur elle passe du rouge au vert toutes les secondes avec un clic des haut-parleurs de la roue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted October 29, 2023 Share Posted October 29, 2023 2 hours ago, altazin.steve@gmail.com said: Salut, je viens. D'essayer ta méthode cela n'a pas fonctionné mais le pack qui me,paraissait en état et que j'ai déjà mesuré à 102 volts , je le mesure à un peu plus de 4 volts comme le pack qui a l'air vraiment défaillant , je reste quand même persuadé que cela ressemble plus à une sécurité bms,du pack batterie plus qu'à une vraie défaillance d'un ou plusieurs accumulateurs . Si tu n'as pas d'autre solution à moi,donner (moi ma roue ne s'allume plus et quand je branche le chargeur il,passe rouge à vert toutes les,secondes avec un claquement des haut-parleurs de la roue Bonjour, j'arrive. Pour essayer ta méthode ça n'a pas marché mais le pack qui me semblait en bon état et que j'ai déjà mesuré à 102 volts, je l'ai mesuré à un peu plus de 4 volts comme le pack qui semble vraiment défaillant, je reste quand même persuadé que cela ressemble plus à une sécurité bms, du pack batterie plus qu'à une réelle panne d'un ou plusieurs accumulateurs. Si vous n'avez pas d'autre solution à me proposer (ma roue ne s'allume plus et quand je branche le chargeur elle passe du rouge au vert toutes les secondes avec un clic des haut-parleurs de la roue Please post in English here. Google Translate: Quote Hello, I'm coming. To try your method it didn't work but the pack which seemed to me to be in good condition and which I have already measured at 102 volts, I measured it at a little more than 4 volts like the pack which really seems faulty, I still remain convinced that this looks more like a bms security, of the battery pack more than a real failure of one or more accumulators. If you have no other solution, give me (my wheel no longer lights up and when I plug in the charger it changes from red to green every second with a clicking sound from the wheel speakers Hello, I'm coming. To try your method it didn't work but the pack which seemed to me to be in good condition and which I already measured at 102 volts, I measured it at a little over 4 volts like the pack which seems really faulty, I still remain convinced that this looks more like bms security, of the battery pack more than a real failure of one or more accumulators. If you have no other solution to offer me (my wheel no longer lights up and when I plug in the charger it goes from red to green every second with a click from the wheel's speakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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