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Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh


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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

Well I'm looking at the same light as Al Alcatraz, the Arctic 3.1, I am just contemplating how to mount it on the Sherman S also, would need to design something and it would be a very tight fit.

Depending on what the final word on power specs look like and form-factors available, I've been toying with a few different mounting ideas and options as well...

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28 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said:

Depending on what the final word on power specs look like and form-factors available, I've been toying with a few different mounting ideas and options as well...

I have no problem designing mounts and 3D printing it, the issue is that the Arctic 3.1 is about as wide as the stock light and it has the mounting at the bottom, meaning you need to translate the side mounts to the bottom one and there's not a lot of room to work with.

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10 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

I have no problem designing mounts and 3D printing it, the issue is that the Arctic 3.1 is about as wide as the stock light and it has the mounting at the bottom, meaning you need to translate the side mounts to the bottom one and there's not a lot of room to work with.

drill a hole on each side and add rubber gasket?  

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12 minutes ago, unicycle bunny said:

drill a hole on each side and add rubber gasket?  

Sure, go ahead and do that and tell us how it went. 👍

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37 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

I have no problem designing mounts and 3D printing it, the issue is that the Arctic 3.1 is about as wide as the stock light and it has the mounting at the bottom, meaning you need to translate the side mounts to the bottom one and there's not a lot of room to work with.

I'm not sure if they would be feasable to print (unless you have a metal printer, in which case - awesome!), but considering that I'd like to keep using the exiting mounting-posts...

I've been thinking along the lines of fabricating a pair of "Reducer Brackets" (i.e. - bent steel, or milled aluminum)  to step-down the mount...still just rough thoughts at this point...(applies to side-mount, but same concept can be applied and modified to allow for bottom-mounted lights)

Edited by Cyberwolf
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1 minute ago, Cyberwolf said:

I'm not sure if they would be feasable to print (unless you have a metal printer, in which case - awesome!), but considering that I'd like to keep using the exiting mounting-posts...

I've been thinking along the lines of fabricating a pair of "Reducer Brackets" (i.e. - bent steel, or milled aluminum)  to step-down the mount...still just rough thoughts at this point...(applies to side-mount, but same concept can be applied and modified to allow for bottom-mounted lights)

I would design with the intention of printing it in TPU so durability wouldn't really be a problem, you can do a lot of clever things with TPU and still keep it stable, i.e. light wont bounce around. 😉

Space is the only concern, would have to position the light differently for those side screws+nuts to fit.

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Just wanted to have a ride update after 670 miles of riding.

I switched to street tires after mile ~140, and the difference is huge for street riding. Other than that, no issues at all!! Motor bolts were all torqued to spec and had loctite (i got it from ewheels so maybe they do it themselves?).

Only issue I have is the rubber flap not closing and the water resistance issues I noted and added a fix here

 

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1 hour ago, Al Alcatraz said:

I got that info from fellow riders who already dealt on the ShermanS with LeaperKim's ill-conceived headlight. 
 

Judging a headlight only by the specs can be misleading. For example, comparing the Arctic v3.1 side by side with the standard lamp, the contrast in favor of the Arctic is so stark you would never guess that there is only a difference in 2 watts.
Also, I’ve found myself using the daytime running light most of the time. I am a bit surprised how much more attention I get in traffic (pedestrians are looking intriguingly on it‍🤩) because at first I was keen to have it just for the cool look. 

1315152341_IMG_2955(1).thumb.jpeg.431498ae8611783162cd4d2932f72f05.jpegIMG_2957.thumb.jpeg.aeeb00fe695a847679ff1a0a53105444.jpeg

I saw now that you have it mounted upside down, won't that affect the cutoff angle?

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2 hours ago, Al Alcatraz said:

I got that info from fellow riders who already dealt on the ShermanS with LeaperKim's ill-conceived headlight. 
 

Judging a headlight only by the specs can be misleading. For example, comparing the Arctic v3.1 side by side with the standard lamp, the contrast in favor of the Arctic is so stark you would never guess that there is only a difference in 2 watts.
Also, I’ve found myself using the daytime running light most of the time. I am a bit surprised how much more attention I get in traffic (pedestrians are looking intriguingly on it‍🤩) because at first I was keen to have it just for the cool look. 

1315152341_IMG_2955(1).thumb.jpeg.431498ae8611783162cd4d2932f72f05.jpegIMG_2957.thumb.jpeg.aeeb00fe695a847679ff1a0a53105444.jpeg

Looks sweet, i think to buy it for Sherman S...should fit also for that or? 

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32 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

Looks sweet, i think to buy it for Sherman S...should fit also for that or? 

I think a strip placed across the front bumper per Al Alcatraz’s post is possibly the best and easiest to execute solution, the Arctic light is appx 94mm wide at its widest point on the outer edges, tapering back to 92,75mm, though the gap between the bumper inner sides on mine appears to measure 93mm, so it may or may not squeeze in, according to how you may decide to fix it.  I haven’t gotten round to removing the original light yet to check fully. The bracket for adjustment is on the bottom of the Arctic light, as shown, whereas the original light is held in place by bolts and nuts passing into the sidewalls of the light housing.

No issues to fit into the original Sherman as there is plenty of space in between the bumper bars.

IMG_1381.jpeg

Edited by Freeforester
Additional info.
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21 hours ago, unicycle bunny said:

please share a link if you'll find a suitable light? too many spooked grandmothers last night jumping left and right... 

You make that sound as though it's a bad thing :)

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7 hours ago, Rawnei said:

I saw now that you have it mounted upside down, won't that affect the cutoff angle?

But this light is symetrical, isnt it? So doesnt matter?

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11 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

But this light is symetrical, isnt it? So doesnt matter?

It has a beam shape and a cutoff at the top of the beam, no?

I found this Russian review and they suggest you flip the lenses if you mount it upside down:

https://www-ixbt-com.translate.goog/live/flashlight/samaya-populyarnaya-svetodiodnaya-fara-dlya-elektrotransporta-obzor-arctic-v31.html?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

Edited by Rawnei
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7 hours ago, onkeldanuel said:

Looks sweet, i think to buy it for Sherman S...should fit also for that or? 

The Sherman is a little bit narrower. 
Here is a photo of the ShermanS with an Arctic attached to it. It’s from a fellow rider herein Moscow. 
IMG_0331.thumb.jpeg.74371f030932c8196c9c8f80d56e43e4.jpeg

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3 minutes ago, Al Alcatraz said:

The Sherman is a little bit narrower. 
Here is a photo of the ShermanS with an Arctic attached to it. It’s from a fellow rider herein Moscow. 
IMG_0331.thumb.jpeg.74371f030932c8196c9c8f80d56e43e4.jpeg

Oh could you ask him for how he mounted it? I want to do something similar, about to order 2 of these.

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What is your voltage after a full charge? My display sasys 126.6v. This seems too high. Also noticed the charger cycling on and off at the very end. The voltage going up to 126.8 turning off, dropping below 126.6 which turns the charger on again. Video of the phenomenon. Anyone seen this? Could this be a faulty charger? 

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33 minutes ago, Hismajestycxplod said:

What is your voltage after a full charge? My display sasys 126.6v. This seems too high. Also noticed the charger cycling on and off at the very end. The voltage going up to 126.8 turning off, dropping below 126.6 which turns the charger on again. Video of the phenomenon. Anyone seen this? Could this be a faulty charger? 

I would not be overly concerned about what you are seeing.  The on and off is cell balancing.  It will go solid green once balanced.  It isn't uncommon for the display to be off.  Best thing to do is use a multimeter to measure pack voltage.  You can then adjust the display voltage.  I think the adjustment range is something like +/- 1.5v.  

 

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13 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I would not be overly concerned about what you are seeing.  The on and off is cell balancing.  It will go solid green once balanced.  It isn't uncommon for the display to be off.  Best thing to do is use a multimeter to measure pack voltage.  You can then adjust the display voltage.  I think the adjustment range is something like +/- 1.5v.  

 

I got a multimeter. The charger reads 127.5v. I do not know where to put the pins for the battery though. 

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Be aware that reading 127.5V vs 126V is only 1.2% off. Unless you're certain your multimeter is higher accuracy than this (i.e. has a calibration certificate stating so), you're essentially betting your multimeter is better than what they calibrate the chargers with at the factory. If it's not, you could be adjusting the charger to a lower (or higher, in some cases) voltage than the nominal 126V.

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1 hour ago, dycus said:

Be aware that reading 127.5V vs 126V is only 1.2% off. Unless you're certain your multimeter is higher accuracy than this (i.e. has a calibration certificate stating so), you're essentially betting your multimeter is better than what they calibrate the chargers with at the factory. If it's not, you could be adjusting the charger to a lower (or higher, in some cases) voltage than the nominal 126V.

mine is 129.4

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