Sherman S Disassembly Findings, Thoughts, and Ownership Log

[onkeldanuel]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

Yup normally there is no slack.

I disassembled my last wheel (the S22) 25 times  last half year and was hoping for the SS to not have to but i guess its something a little loose (perhaps a bolt, perhaps a clamp) 

[onkeldanuel]

Now i disassembled and am glad the motorbolts are fine it seems (all tight), also the clamps are not broken , on one side the clamp was mounted pretty offcentered so will see, perhaps some alignment problem or its some plastik clonking from the kickstand assembly or something like that....

[onkeldanuel]

https://streamable.com/ts4wi9

 

Here is the Video where you can here the clonk noise 

It makes this noise when riding over grass and also pushing by hand....clunk noise only appears when little suspension movement is happening...also when lift/unload the wheel by hand , its a little little slack clunk noise, its louder in reality/hard to get on Video....this clonk clonk...

 

I think its from suspension stanchion itself or not?

Edited June 3, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, onkeldanuel said:

https://streamable.com/e54tfz

It would help if we would see what exactly you were doing at each moment. All I can say from that is that yes, there is a bit of play somewhere.

 

Edited June 2, 2023 by mrelwood

[onkeldanuel]

15 hours ago, mrelwood said:

It would help if we would see what exactly you were doing at each moment. All I can say from that is that yes, there is a bit of play somewhere.

 

There ya go, new video....only these clonk....its much louder and i mean much louder in reality and like i said at small/initial/last suspension movement and at unloading....

Today i changed the tire and while at it also the motorbolts, aligned everything as good as i can and tightened everything good down....Clamps are also ok and not broken....

 

At this point i suspect at least one Fork stanchion itself (maybe the rebound one) 

https://streamable.com/df1bqj

Edited June 3, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, onkeldanuel said:

There ya go, new video....only these clonk....its much louder and i mean much louder in reality and like i said at small/initial/last suspension movement and at unloading....

Today i changed the tire and while at it also the motorbolts, aligned everything as good as i can and tightened everything good down....Clamps are also ok and not broken....

 

At this point i suspect at least one Fork stanchion itself (maybe the rebound one) 

https://streamable.com/df1bqj

It almost sounded like the coil spring is loose with no preload?

[onkeldanuel]

Now my best try of an Video, i figured out now which exact movement reproduces best, again louder in reality, as the camera comes near you hear the clonk somewhat good...

https://streamable.com/gx1mez

Edited June 3, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[onkeldanuel]

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

It almost sounded like the coil spring is loose with no preload?

I would say something like that kind of sound yes, please listen to the new video i posted in the last post , its somewhat clearer there when the camera comes closer

 

But i testet preload also, doesent change much, perhaps its getting worser a little, will test with max preload...the Videos are with Zero preload tho 

Edited June 3, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[techyiam]

19 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

i testet preload also, doesent change much, perhaps its getting worser a little, will test with max preload

As you are increasing preload, are you seeing proportional decrease in sag?

[onkeldanuel]

13 minutes ago, techyiam said:

As you are increasing preload, are you seeing proportional decrease in sag?

I testet full preload now on both sides individual and together...Yes, preload works, gets much more springi then...also sag decreases 

 

But Zero change in the clunking , exaktly the same

[techyiam]

2 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

I testet full preload now on both sides individual and together...Yes, preload works, gets much more springi then...also sag decreases 

 

But Zero change in the clunking , exaktly the same

That rules out what I had in mind then.

 

[onkeldanuel]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

That rules out what I had in mind then.

 

And what exactly do you think is the problem? Spring inside one stanchion is loose ?

Edit: ah ok ypu mean thats not the cause...

Edited June 3, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[MrMonoWheel]

It's been a long time since I've posted, here's an update.

As of today, my Sherman S has reset itself to factory 6 times. It happens at random mileages and charge levels. I contacted the seller on AliExpress and they told me leaperkim says it will be fixed in a firmware update (which they have been saying since the OG Sherman). Meh.

Now for the wheel itself. It's been running strong without any other issues since I cleaned up the motor and put in SKF bearings. I converted it to tubeless which  was extremely easy and I'm currently running the stock tire as tubeless despite it being designed for tubes only. I have a Michelin pilot street 2 and a shinko 244, so I'll throw one of those on soon. The ride with tubeless is way nicer, I honestly didn't expect it to be so different. Riding off-road is night and day due to the extra tire flexibility and lower pressure potential. 

GT King sent me a care package with the updated trolley handle, pedals, buzzer, etc. I installed the new trolley handle and it's so much more comfortable than the original. More rigid too.

Aside from all this, it still has the same clunking from inside the shock(s). Haven't bothered to open up the shocks to take a look as it hasn't gotten worse.

In the meantime I've also purchased an S22 for the GF and installed the CNC rollers today. Excellent little wheel.

 

[Rawnei]

21 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

It's been a long time since I've posted, here's an update.

As of today, my Sherman S has reset itself to factory 6 times. It happens at random mileages and charge levels. I contacted the seller on AliExpress and they told me leaperkim says it will be fixed in a firmware update (which they have been saying since the OG Sherman). Meh.

Now for the wheel itself. It's been running strong without any other issues since I cleaned up the motor and put in SKF bearings. I converted it to tubeless which  was extremely easy and I'm currently running the stock tire as tubeless despite it being designed for tubes only. I have a Michelin pilot street 2 and a shinko 244, so I'll throw one of those on soon. The ride with tubeless is way nicer, I honestly didn't expect it to be so different. Riding off-road is night and day due to the extra tire flexibility and lower pressure potential. 

GT King sent me a care package with the updated trolley handle, pedals, buzzer, etc. I installed the new trolley handle and it's so much more comfortable than the original. More rigid too.

Aside from all this, it still has the same clunking from inside the shock(s). Haven't bothered to open up the shocks to take a look as it hasn't gotten worse.

In the meantime I've also purchased an S22 for the GF and installed the CNC rollers today. Excellent little wheel.

 

That sucks, which firmware are you on atm?

[onkeldanuel]

1 hour ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I converted it to tubeless which  was extremely easy and I'm currently running the stock tire as tubeless despite it being designed for tubes only

How have you managed the initial sealing of the tire? With zipties or something? 

Also i have this clunking from inside the suspension i guess and will open it up next week...organiced SKF Oil and Dustseals for it already and also have contacted my reseller,  now wartung for response from Leaperkim 

[techyiam]

6 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

How have you managed the initial sealing of the tire? With zipties or something? 

I heard of people using a ratchet strap around the tire circumference to get the tire bead to move closer to the rim to limit the air leak.

I use a high volume air compressor and air nozzle to seat the tire bead on the rim. You need to remove the valve stem core first.

[onkeldanuel]

23 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I heard of people using a ratchet strap around the tire circumference to get the tire bead to move closer to the rim to limit the air leak.

I use a high volume air compressor and air nozzle to seat the tire bead on the rim. You need to remove the valve stem core first.

Yeah, i already mounted an K66 (TL Tire) on an S22 tubeless and that worked like a charm without anithing at first try, but i tried an Shinko 241 also and had absolut Zero Chance(Tubetype)...

Now for the Sherman S i have the 241 with an tube but would love to run this tire tubeless thats why i ask 

[techyiam]

41 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

Now for the Sherman S i have the 241 with an tube but would love to run this tire tubeless thats why i ask 

I see. I don't own a Sherman S, so I don't have that exact experience.

[mrelwood]

4 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

The ride with tubeless is way nicer, I honestly didn't expect it to be so different.

Is this with the same pressure, or while utilizing the lower pressure potential?

I ask because back when I tried a tubeless setup on my MSX, I didn’t feel any difference on flat ground, and the difference over curbs and roots was very small. They were of course tested with the exact same pressure (and same tire) to get a fair comparison.

[MrMonoWheel]

7 hours ago, Rawnei said:

That sucks, which firmware are you on atm?

I'm on whichever the latest is as of 4 days ago.

 

6 hours ago, onkeldanuel said:

How have you managed the initial sealing of the tire? With zipties or something? 

I just sprayed starter fluid in the tire and ignited the vapor with a blowtorch. Immediately seated. On the S22 I converted there was no issue and it seated with a normal air compressor.

 

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Is this with the same pressure, or while utilizing the lower pressure potential?

I ask because back when I tried a tubeless setup on my MSX, I didn’t feel any difference on flat ground, and the difference over curbs and roots was very small. They were of course tested with the exact same pressure (and same tire) to get a fair comparison.

At the same pressure the tire just has a better feel to it. It's hard to explain, but I experienced the same feeling on my tubeless mountain bikes. It has a more connected feel to whatever surface I'm on. Furthermore, let's say I air it down to 24psi for a trail. Tubed 24psi felt kinda mushy but tubeless 24psi feels much more connected and grippy.

I guess the best way I can put it is you have a more connected feeling and better feedback in general. Plus there's literally no reason not to go tubeless on an EUC so I just convert all of mine.

[mrelwood]

2 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I just convert all of mine.

Nice that you have found something that works for you. I changed mine back and definitely don’t have plans of doing it again.

[onkeldanuel]

13 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I just sprayed starter fluid in the tire and ignited the vapor with a blowtorch. Immediately seated. On the S22 I converted there was no issue and it seated with a normal air compressor.

With an tube type Knobby like the kenda? I done it on the S22 with an TL Tire as well, even with an handpump but was absolute unable with an Shinko 241 with compressor on the S22...

Edited June 9, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[techyiam]

54 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

7 hours ago, onkeldanuel said:

How have you managed the initial sealing of the tire? With zipties or something? 

I just sprayed starter fluid in the tire and ignited the vapor with a blowtorch. Immediately seated. On the S22 I converted there was no issue and it seated with a normal air compressor.

You know on the can there are warning labels as to NOT to place a flame close to it. No, not you. You use the starter fluid to create a miniscule air-fuel explosion to create a quick high pressure expansion inside the tire. Gutsy move. 

1 hour ago, MrMonoWheel said:

At the same pressure the tire just has a better feel to it. It's hard to explain, but I experienced the same feeling on my tubeless mountain bikes. It has a more connected feel to whatever surface I'm on. Furthermore, let's say I air it down to 24psi for a trail. Tubed 24psi felt kinda mushy but tubeless 24psi feels much more connected and grippy.

I also find that I can use lower tire pressures on a tubeless tire to better effects. However, it depends on the tire. Ride quality varies a lot from tire to tire.

[onkeldanuel]

So today i disassembled my shocks because of terrible clunking , now im waiting for todays delivery of Oil and Seals to reassemle and see how it works out....one thing i noticed that on the rebound side the oil looks good/normal coloured but on the compression side it looks terrible grey-black (2. and 3. picture you see the Black oil

After 100Km , basically new

 

Edited June 12, 2023 by onkeldanuel

[Rawnei]

50 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

So today i disassembled my shocks because of terrible clunking , now im waiting for todays delivery of Oil and Seals to reassemle and see how it works out....one thing i noticed that on the rebound side the oil looks good/normal coloured but on the compression side it looks terrible grey-black (2. and 3. picture you see the Black oil

After 100Km , basically new

 

Could you measure approx how much oil that is?