jugon666 Posted September 17, 2023 Share Posted September 17, 2023 (edited) On 7/7/2023 at 11:37 PM, Rawnei said: So I did a 1000km checkup and part swapping on my Sherman S, this is after 1000km with some really gnarly off-road, light jumping and plenty of stairs so suspension had to work for it. General checkup Check if non-stock motor screws are ok Replace oil seals with SKF oil seals Measure stock oil and replace it Check on the stopper General Checkup: Wheel is in great condition, nothing to complain about, no abnormal wear or tear. It's pretty easy to work on the Sherman S including shock maintenance. Check if non-stock motor screws are ok: When I first got the wheel I swapped screws from the stock screws to M6x20mm 12.9 grade steel screws using no spacers only loctite, I'm happy to report they are still as tight and none of them were loose, so normal M6 screw + loctite works great. Since they are steel screws I also sprayed some Corrosion X on them when first installing them, you can still see a layer of it. Replace oil seals with SKF oil seals: I had a bit of stiction in my shocks, when riding it wasn't something really noticeable that I was thinking about but I wanted to swap to SKF Showa seals which supposedly have longer lifespan and lower stiction by design and I can report that this is true, now my shocks have 0 stiction, I can move my wheel very smoothly up and down by pressing with my hands, I haven't ridden enough yet to really determine what difference it makes in practice but I am sure there will be a sublte one at least. When installing new oil seals it's important to install the "lips" on the seals faces "inwards" towards the shock or oil will leak, the purpose of these lips is to prevent leaks as pressure from the oil will push them outwards toward the stanchion, this wasn't obvious to me I had to watch a youtube video explaining the importance of this. SKF seal kits contain one seal and one wiper per kit so you will need 2 of them, for reference these are 37x50x11mm same as stock. Measure stock oil and replace it: I've seen reports of FastAce shocks having varying amount of oil from factory so I wanted to measure it and also replace it with new 5W fork oil. The right shock measured 150ml The left shock measured 140ml Now there is a margin of error as some oil will drip out and I didn't wait patiently to drain every last drop into the beaker so it's safe to assume that there was around 150-160ml of oil in my shocks from factory, I re-filled them with new 165ml of 5W fork oil. I know that some people put 200ml of oil in the Patton but I can't work out how that makes any sense as Patton shocks should be 1cm shorter and thus contain less oil, I plan on doing the same thing on Patton in the future and will measure oil there also. Fork oil from Biltema: Check on the stopper: I can't say how effective the stopper is but it's sure is "stopping" it had some deformations meaning there is impact so there's that, it's TPU so hopefully it dampens that last bit of stroke a tiny bit and enough to be purposeful. Hi, could you tip me which store you purchased the skf fork seals for the sherman s from? I was not able to find that specific model online. Thanks in advance. Edited September 17, 2023 by jugon666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted September 17, 2023 Share Posted September 17, 2023 1 hour ago, jugon666 said: Hi, could you tip me which store you purchased the skf fork seals for the sherman s from? I was not able to find that specific model online. Thanks in advance. If you google "SKF Showa 37mm" you will get many results, I bought them from https://www.rg3scandinavia.com/produkt/skf-seals-kit-oil-dust-showa-37mm/ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jugon666 Posted September 17, 2023 Share Posted September 17, 2023 4 minutes ago, Rawnei said: If you google "SKF Showa 37mm" you will get many results, I bought them from https://www.rg3scandinavia.com/produkt/skf-seals-kit-oil-dust-showa-37mm/ Thank you very much that was helpful ✌ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jugon666 Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 On 1/6/2023 at 10:43 PM, MrMonoWheel said: Replaced the Phillips screws with stainless button head hex screws. The heads on these are 7.22mm vs the stock 6.57mm so it's a tight fit but they fit. The only place they aren't gonna fit is the screws that hold together the ratchet mechanism but I don't care about those since I removed the mechanism in the first place. I'm trying to find some with smaller heads that use a 3mm hex instead of 2.5mm but for now these are good.   Something to watch out for is that the plastic they make the motherboard cover out of is very soft and thin around the screws. This causes it to easily deform and split when tightening, even when not making the screws very tight. I've resorted to just snugging them up till I see the cover make contact with the metal, and relying on threadlock to keep them in place. I really wish this was made from metal.  Hi! I am looking to replace the stock phillips screws from the top plastic cover for sherman s as the head are starting to strip for some of the screws. I stumbled upon your post and it seems like a good solution. Would you remember the specific model of hex screws that you used? Or the link where you ordered those online from if applicable? Many thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthraksi Posted April 4 Share Posted April 4 Haven't taken my wheel apart yet, but probably will soon have to. Are the bolts of high enough quality that there is no need to replace them with stronger ones? If some are suggested to be replaced, which ones? Also regarding waterproofing. Im thinking about making a pass on the controller cover and battery covers with silicone just in case. Any other spots that are suggested to go through? The suspension holders have holes in them which are probably wise to cover with tape or something just in case. Is there anything for the motor itself? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jugon666 Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 9 hours ago, Anthraksi said: Haven't taken my wheel apart yet, but probably will soon have to. Are the bolts of high enough quality that there is no need to replace them with stronger ones? If some are suggested to be replaced, which ones? Also regarding waterproofing. Im thinking about making a pass on the controller cover and battery covers with silicone just in case. Any other spots that are suggested to go through? The suspension holders have holes in them which are probably wise to cover with tape or something just in case. Is there anything for the motor itself? For making the sherman s rainProof I only sealed the top cover that is practically all that was required. I have tested it under quite heavy rain. No problems at all  1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 10 hours ago, Anthraksi said: Haven't taken my wheel apart yet, but probably will soon have to. Are the bolts of high enough quality that there is no need to replace them with stronger ones? If some are suggested to be replaced, which ones? Also regarding waterproofing. Im thinking about making a pass on the controller cover and battery covers with silicone just in case. Any other spots that are suggested to go through? The suspension holders have holes in them which are probably wise to cover with tape or something just in case. Is there anything for the motor itself? The charge ports are the weak spot, even with the rubber flap/gasket water will seep in there, that is why I designed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6292996 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthraksi Posted April 5 Share Posted April 5 (edited) 5 hours ago, Rawnei said: The charge ports are the weak spot, even with the rubber flap/gasket water will seep in there, that is why I designed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6292996 Oh yeah also planning on adding silicon to the charge ports as well. That does not really solve the issue of water getting in there, but it keeps it from going into the controller department. The charge ports are "cold" afaik so getting them wet without plugging anything into them should not be an issue? Unless you get really unlucky and short them with only water. But if I find someone willing to print that cover for me, might as well slap that on there as well. I already have a lot of your 3d printed accessories for the sherman s (bumpers, pedal risers, suspension adjusters and extended mudguard) which saved me quite a lot of money instead of buying them directly somewhere else, thanks for that! Edited April 5 by Anthraksi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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