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RS 19 good wheel to learn on?


RhoadsNRoses82

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'Inmotion Direct' might just be just a name used by the seller on Amazon.

 

https://www.amazon.com/sp?ie=UTF8&seller=A2RP7PV4Z4OVW7&isAmazonFulfilled=1

Inmotion Direct

4.5 out of 5 stars
 

Detailed Seller Information

  • Business Name:xiangganglexingyundongkejiyouxiangongsi
  • Business Address:
    • jiulongwangjiaomidundao610hao
    • helihuoshangyezhongxin1318-19shi
    • hongkong
    • hongkong
    • 999077
    • HK

 

Some of the reviews are a bit concerning.

 

v11 unicycle turned off completely as I was riding didn't die because it was at 68% I was thrown from the unicycle where I broke my wrist and fractured my left knee had surgery yesterday. The v11 completely malfunctioned turning off causing my injury. I have proof as well please help me I was so excited about the product, and now I'm traumatized Read less
By Kenneth on May 6, 2022.
Message from Amazon: This item was fulfilled by Amazon, and we take responsibility for this fulfillment experience.
 
 
this item is not in new condition
By Amazon Customer on February 5, 2022.
Message from Amazon: This item was fulfilled by Amazon, and we take responsibility for this fulfillment experience.
 
   
 

The item is great but it ask for an update of the firmware and now it will not turn on. I plan to reorder again as soon as the refund comes.

By James D. Allen on December 25, 2021.
Message from Amazon: This item was fulfilled by Amazon, and we take responsibility for this fulfillment experience.
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8 minutes ago, enaon said:

both the 16x and the 18xl used to over report speed. latest batches however have a true top speed of 31, and a bit less torque.

How can i check if i got "real" speed? If i use euc world which speed should be real one - gps or wheels?

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6 minutes ago, Paul A said:

 

Maybe check if EUC world or GPS records a correct distance.

Ride a known distance, and see what the two readings are.

last ride i did ~9km.

gps - 9.3km

euc - 9.8km

2kph difference in speed seems.

Edited by Funky
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2 minutes ago, Paul A said:

Still need to ride a specific distance to determine which reading is correct.

They both could be incorrect.

Perhaps one lap of a 400 meter running track.

Using 2/3/4 speedometer apps, and see at what speed the alarms kicks in - also would work?

 

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29 minutes ago, Funky said:

How can i check if i got "real" speed? If i use euc world which speed should be real one - gps or wheels?

On the 18xl, one way is to check model reported, the new 18xl reports as 18LH on the bt info. Or maybe use EW's gps speedometer to check if you are at ~31mph or ~27 GPS when the wheel reports 31.

Edited by enaon
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7 minutes ago, Paul A said:

Don't odometers on cars work on the number of revolutions of the wheel?

Though changing tyre size, or even the wearing down of the tread, might have an effect on the accuracy.

yes, but in the case of some models, like th ks18xl, it was quite off. 
this means that if  new and an old 18xl's are riding side by side, the old will report going 31, and the new will report 26.5. The new one is faster. 

Edited by enaon
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15 minutes ago, enaon said:

On the 18xl, one way is to check model reported, the new 18xl reports as 18LH on the bt info. Or maybe use EW's gps speedometer to check if you are at ~31mph or ~27 GPS when the wheel reports 31.

There was 1-2mph difference. GPS normally was slower.. I guess "alarm" are triggered from euc speed not GPS. I figure GPS speed are the "more" accurate one.

16 minutes ago, Paul A said:

How does the alarm determine when to sound the alert?

The alarm might be using a speed measurement device/sensor/reader that is not accurate?

IDK. :D Thought using multiple aps, to see what speed they show, when euc triggers the alarm.

11 minutes ago, Paul A said:

Don't odometers on cars work on the number of revolutions of the wheel?

Though changing tyre size, or even the wearing down of the tread, might have an effect on the accuracy.

Well i got "bigger" tire on my 18xl. So..

 

Hey admin could i ask a favor? Could you make a "new" tread to move this conversation over. So we can take this over somewhere else. Don't want to keep stealing this tread with my questions.. I'm sorry for being a naughty boy.

Edited by Funky
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5 hours ago, EF95 said:

Is there a way to tell if the v11 i get is from the newer line or previous line?

If it were a KS I'd say that the date of manufacture shows up in the KS app (and EUCWorld) in the 'details' section. It might be there on IM wheels as well.

The issues I've heard are: bad batteries, necessitated a firmware update to prevent fires. And missing screws. V11s from all batches have had what I consider more than their fair share of MOSFET failures, these typically happen fairly early on into the ownership if they're going to happen (ride with fear full gear for the first 500 km!). If the newest firmware is installed and it doesn't scream at you to please repair when you plug it into the charger, you should be over the battery hurdle. A quick (haha) disassembly will reveal missing hardware, or loose hardware.

Personally, wheels are such a crap shoot these days that I wouldn't be any more worried about it than anything else. Which sucks, but it's kind of the way it is.

Edited by Tawpie
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Side note on wheel speed vs. GPS speed:

These are both valid speeds (or can both be wrong). The real track a wheel goes (with carving and weaving and whatnot) is always going to be a bit longer than whatever track, made from a series of straight line segments, a GPS measurement will produce. Have you ever seen how rough and inexact these GPS measurements are? Of course it's underreporting the speed then.

Naturally, a wheel's alarm always goes by wheel speed (as measured by tire rotations), because that is the only information available to the wheel.

Which one is your "real" speed is up to you to say.

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34 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Side note on wheel speed vs. GPS speed:

These are both valid speeds (or can both be wrong). The real track a wheel goes (with carving and weaving and whatnot) is always going to be a bit longer than whatever track, made from a series of straight line segments, a GPS measurement will produce. Have you ever seen how rough and inexact these GPS measurements are? Of course it's underreporting the speed then.

Naturally, a wheel's alarm always goes by wheel speed (as measured by tire rotations), because that is the only information available to the wheel.

Which one is your "real" speed is up to you to say.

So if i have bigger diameter tire than "original", i would be correct to assume that that tire would go faster vs smaller diameter tire? If both where going same motor power "watts".

Bigger tire = more speed, or is that wrong?

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If:

Original tyre has a circumference of 1 meter.

Bigger replacement tyre has a circumference of 2 meters.

 

Then with one revolution, the wheel thinks/states the rider has travelled 1 meter.

The real distance travelled is 2 meters.

 

Would take more power to rotate a bigger wheel one rotation.

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1 hour ago, Funky said:

So if i have bigger diameter tire than "original", i would be correct to assume that that tire would go faster vs smaller diameter tire? If both where going same motor power "watts".

Bigger tire = more speed, or is that wrong?

Yes. Speed = RPM times tire circumference, so the wheel gives you its speed depending on the tire size it expects. If the real tire is bigger, you're going faster in reality.

You'll need more power to turn a bigger tire at the same RPM, though. So you can't go faster for free (wind resistance also doesn't care and grows with speed anyways).

To get back on topic (maybe), everything with EUCs is somehow a mess. Even wearing down a tire is going to lower your real speed (a tiny bit) but not what the wheel tells you the speed is. We ride anyways, and 99.999% of the time everything is great;)

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  • 1 month later...

I know I was pushing it, but my new model KS 16X has been up to 33.7mph without cut-out and on a full charge with pedals tilting back.

I have held at 28-30mph for about 3/4 mile without issues. I know other people have had cut-outs at lower speeds, but mine seems to be doing just fine.

My 16X is at my Boss's house right now as he is in EUC training.

Regardless of the wheel, you need to get to know your particular wheel even if it is the same model and series at another's.

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18 minutes ago, Magman116 said:

I know I was pushing it, but my new model KS 16X has been up to 33.7mph without cut-out and on a full charge with pedals tilting back.

I have held at 28-30mph for about 3/4 mile without issues. I know other people have had cut-outs at lower speeds, but mine seems to be doing just fine.

My 16X is at my Boss's house right now as he is in EUC training.

Regardless of the wheel, you need to get to know your particular wheel even if it is the same model and series at another's.

And sooner or later you will kiss the ground. You will see. You can ride 5000miles like that and one day it will fail you. Each time you hit those 30mph it's like gambling - one day you will win. :D Some are more lucky than others.

Edited by Funky
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31 minutes ago, Funky said:

And sooner or later you will kiss the ground. You will see. You can ride 5000miles like that and one day it will fail you. Each time you hit those 30mph it's like gambling - one day you will win. :D Some are more lucky than others.

I totally agree and have to be prepared every ride for the inevitable. I don't get on the 16X much anyway since I got my RS HS. No matter what, I always fully gear up before every ride, even the short ones.

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18 minutes ago, Magman116 said:

I totally agree and have to be prepared every ride for the inevitable. I don't get on the 16X much anyway since I got my RS HS. No matter what, I always fully gear up before every ride, even the short ones.

Meh when i don't have to hurry anywhere. I just wear wrist guards and go under 20kph speeds. More like running speeds, simply enjoying slow ride.

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It is nice to have the freedom to choose to do what we feel is right for ourselves without having someone else's opinions forced on us.

It is not my place to say what anyone should be using for personal safety, it is personal.  Just because I wear all my gear doesn't mean everyone else should regardless of how I feel about it. It is a personal choice.

I feel the same way about these wheels.  Manufactures should allow the user to choose what they feel is safe for them even if it means they crash. Crashing is personal too based upon choices you make. We should have things like standard profiles for wheels to choose from, then the more advanced options where we can customize the performance/safety as we see fit.

Gotway/Begode is the closest thing to that now, but still not really.  It would be nice to an app/wheel that allows tuning of things like phase current, tilt-back, alarms, speed limits, PWM control and many many other things. I don't see that happening anytime soon.

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