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1.2.7 malfunction


Tatertot

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I was riding my unit home and right as I got to my driveway, the unit turned itself off and sent me flying while also flying into my ill puppy :(. To say the least, I spilled my taters everywhere. I tried turning the unit back on, but it won't respond. The battery was at around 85-90%. I came to a pretty rough stop was slowing down pretty quickly, but no more than I usually do. When I try rolling the unit while it's turned off, it feels rough like the wheel is catching on something. When I plug it into the charger and try turning it on, it beeps once, but there is no response from the unit besides that. It doesn't try balancing itself or anything like that-- I just get a single beep. The main board smells like something burned but I'm scared to open it up because I don't want to void the warranty. The most I've done is disconnect the battery because I'd rather it not start a fire in my house tonight while everyone is asleep. What do you guys think happened here? I don't think I stopped TOO hard-- it definitely wasn't harder than I've stopped before and I didn't even come to a complete stop, I was just slowing down a bit before climbing my driveway (it's not that steep). 

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14 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

The problem is that the motor might also be damaged. So in that case, even if Ninebot sends a replacement motherboard,like in the below link, it might eventually fry again. 

http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/1571-ninebot-one-advance-bms-and-repair-workshop-shut-down-problem/#comment-16409

It seems like most 9bots have been working great 3-4 months and then dies. I wonder if it's hw or software problems or both? 

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Just now, Viktiga said:

It seems like most 9bots have been working great 3-4 months and then dies. I wonder if it's hw or software problems or both? 

And people who were affected and who complain are looked at as if they have a personal vendetta against Ninebot. :huh:

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21 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

And people who were affected and who complain are looked at as if they have a personal vendetta against Ninebot. :huh:

In a way I can understand them. Hell, I would have been one of them but my bot died:D. Probably because there is so "few"(?) problems compared to other brands (until they die;)).

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You can take the covers off of the battery and control board without voiding your warranty.  The warranty void stickers are over a couple of the screw holes for taking off the side panels for getting to the wheel.

Pull out the light rings and unplug them.  Remove the two screws for each cover (the pads) on both sides.  

Unplug the battery and plug it back in after a few seconds.  With the ninebot on it's side, turn it on.  It should power up and start beeping.  Stand it up and as it engages the motor control circuit, it will shut down if it detects a problem.

If the board shut down trying to engage the motor control circuit, check the rotation of the wheel.  Does it rotate with resistance?  If so, unplug the motor from the control board.  This plug is tucked into the top of the heat sinks and no additional disassembly is required.  Now check if the motor rotates freely.  If it does, the issue is likely to just be the control board.  

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7 minutes ago, Cranium said:

You can take the covers off of the battery and control board without voiding your warranty.  The warranty void stickers are over a couple of the screw holes for taking off the side panels for getting to the wheel.

Pull out the light rings and unplug them.  Remove the two screws for each cover (the pads) on both sides.  

Unplug the battery and plug it back in after a few seconds.  With the ninebot on it's side, turn it on.  It should power up and start beeping.  Stand it up and as it engages the motor control circuit, it will shut down if it detects a problem.

If the board shut down trying to engage the motor control circuit, check the rotation of the wheel.  Does it rotate with resistance?  If so, unplug the motor from the control board.  This plug is tucked into the top of the heat sinks and no additional disassembly is required.  Now check if the motor rotates freely.  If it does, the issue is likely to just be the control board.  

This post should be pinned and we should make a WIKI for trouble shooting detecting the damage of the Ninebot One since so many new people join the forum just to get advices about their burned units.

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28 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

This post should be pinned and we should make a WIKI for trouble shooting detecting the damage of the Ninebot One since so many new people join the forum just to get advices about their burned units.

We can also ad a quick how to claim warranty/open the unit up and 1-2-3 steps with pics. Maybe include the accident report  file to save some valuable time and also a pre-written e-mail asking for code for changing serial. I only have a Android so maybe someone with an Iphone can do screenshots too?

@FORWARD california

Wouldn't be cheaper for Ninebot to just send a shitload of control boards to the dealers in the US & EU? Faster service times, cheaper freight etc?

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Tatertot,

You mention in your original post above that " When I try rolling the unit while it's turned off, it feels rough like the wheel is catching on something".  I suspect that the motor may be damaged based on this description.  If you take a look at this video from Speedyfeet, Ian Sampson is describing how to fix a problem when you get a scraping sound by using a washer over the axel.  Although this is not related to a fix for your issue the important part of this video is that Ian does talk about how careful you need to be when banging gout the little lead lugs using a screwdriver an hammer as the impact/shock could damage the motor.  Ian goes on to say that if, when you put the unit back together and spin the wheel, you hear a knocking noise this likely indicates that the motor has been damaged.  Watch the video from 12m 50s for 30 secs and then at 15:00 for 20 secs this is where he mentions the cause and then the symptom.

Not great if it is the motor but it is a single component replacement and 45min job to replace.   It does however cost £240.00 on the Speedyfeet website so not cheap !

Anyway HTH's

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When the wheel feels rough (if you roll the unit on the ground it feels that there is a stop every few centimeters and the faster you roll it the stronger the stops are) there is a shortcut between two of the three wires that go to the motor. (usually one or more defect mosfets).

My board is a 1.3.1 version and there are 12 N-channel mosfets on two heatsinks ( 75nf75 in an TO-220 case).  One of the mosfets on the lower heatsink was defect.

In the meantime I got a new board from Ninebot after nearly 5 weeks. See here: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/2053-nb-e-dead-controller-and-ninebot-service/

Because I´m waiting for the unlock code since Nov. 27th. I ordered some of the mosfets and replaced all six on the lower heatsink. (to replace only the defect one is nearly impossible because you don´t have direct access to them.  I was not sure whether this "repair" would work, because there could be damaged some more components.

But I was on the lucky side.  With replacing the defect Mosfet I could turn the wheel without any stops and after completing the Ninebot it worked again :-)

I did a 15 Km ride without any problems (before the ride I updated the old board to Firmware ver. 1.3.0)

As soon as I get the code for the new board I will change the boards again, because on the repaired board the waterproof layering has to be renewed.

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Nice update Infornix - good to know that what could seem to be a motor failure (mechanically) can still be related to the control board!.

I wonder if you can just buy the boards water proof silicone layer as a spray or something.   I noticed mine starting to peel away the last week and with the winter upon us would be nice to not have to worry about water getting into the circuitry. 

**Just answered my own question - waterproof silicone based spray

 

 

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51 minutes ago, Infornix said:

My board is a 1.3.1 version and there are 12 N-channel mosfets on two heatsinks ( 75nf75 in an TO-220 case).  One of the mosfets on the lower heatsink was defect.

I just bought 25 of 75NF75's with TO-220 casing from Aliexpress for around 6€ (with free shipping) last month... although I don't have a Ninebot, but I plan on using them to build a 3-phase motor controller.

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3 minutes ago, esaj said:

I just bought 25 of 75NF75's with TO-220 casing from Aliexpress for around 6€ (with free shipping) last month... although I don't have a Ninebot, but I plan on using them to build a 3-phase motor controller.

I like the sound of that but have no idea what it means - is there a warp core magnetic field constrictor in there somewhere ;-)

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7 minutes ago, Thumper0511 said:

I like the sound of that but have no idea what it means - is there a warp core magnetic field constrictor in there somewhere ;-)

They're the mosfets ("metal oxide semiconductor field-effect transistors") used to build the half-bridges that drive the Ninebot motor. Just in case someone has a Ninebot-board where some of them have burned, you can do like @Infornix and replace them yourself while waiting for a replacement board. Be sure to get some thermal padding too (the metal "back"-part of the mosfet needs to be electrically insulated from the heatsink, as it acts as one of the pins, drain I think?).

EDIT: Datasheet for anyone interested:  http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00002771.pdf

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easj, thank you for the explanation - it's nice to know how these things work and that these types of workarounds are possible.  I must say that, although I don't get into the electronics to the level detail you have described here and in previous posts, it is nice to be able to just take the whole unit to bits, put it all back together, get on a head off for a ride. When you see it as a bunch of parts cleverly stuck together but easily serviceable it all becomes less of a black art and just clever tech :-)  Wish they'd sort these firmware updates out though - it's not nice to hold you're breath every time you upgrade (even if you don't jump in first).... anyway that's for a different thread :-)

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@Infornix, how did you get the MOSFETs detached from the heatsink?  Mine appeared to have used a thermal epoxy and I couldn't get them detached with just my fingers.  I stopped short of using a mechanical device to pry them though.   I am going to replace all of mine to see if that fixes my other board as well.

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1 hour ago, Thumper0511 said:

easj, thank you for the explanation - it's nice to know how these things work and that these types of workarounds are possible.  I must say that, although I don't get into the electronics to the level detail you have described here and in previous posts, it is nice to be able to just take the whole unit to bits, put it all back together, get on a head off for a ride. When you see it as a bunch of parts cleverly stuck together but easily serviceable it all becomes less of a black art and just clever tech :-)  Wish they'd sort these firmware updates out though - it's not nice to hold you're breath every time you upgrade (even if you don't jump in first).... anyway that's for a different thread :-)

My understanding is still fairly superficial, but I try to improve all the time... ;) And I have been wrong in my best guesses more than once :D There are people in these forums with much more deep insight into the finer details of the circuits and working principles.

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Wow I just called Ninebot China and the people there doesn't seem to know about my issue. I told them that their engineer ( which is now in Pakistan for whatever reason) already approved (last Nov 19) my replacement burned motherboard and battery (at firmware 1.2.7)  and is no longer responding to my emails. The only reply i got was they will send my message to that engineer. So I guess I have to wait and wish among the stars that someday this engineer will remember his promise. Good job Ninebot! :wacko:

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@Cranium, I removed the Mosfets with gentle force and a lever between the Mosfets.  If you install the new Mosfets, be sure that they are proper isolated against the heatsink (check with a multimeter).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received my new board today and installed it, thanks to FORWARD California for helping me through this process and everyone else who chipped in their knowledge! FORWARD Cali has been on top of things since the start and they've helped me pretty quickly which I appreciate :).

When I turn the unit on, the motor gets no power. Do I have to verify the serial number in the app? Once I go there, it asks me for a verification code... would I get this code from my reseller or any authorized distributor or would I have to talk to a ninebot one engineer and get the code from them?

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You can get the verification code from ninebot directly and/or from your reseller. Some here made the experience that ninebot is very slow an processing requests, so if you have a dedicated reseller you could have chances to get the code quicker. Just try both ways?

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