MTurcotte

Question to All: - What is the LED0, LED1, LED2, LED3 settings do on the Begode Master? (when I try different settings, I do not see any difference in the way the tail light works). (if it does not do anything, then I wonder why Begode left this setting available) (perhaps it works only on other Begode wheels that have decorative LEDs) I have 1200 miles on my Master that I received in Late July. I love it, amazingly stable with an upgraded tire (stock tire is trash, too soft for that heavy wheel). One more thing: Stock pads are way too limiting for this heavy wheel. To use your Master fully, you need power pads that holds your back leg properly (for breaking and turning) and front pads to stabilize your climbs, give you a manor boost in acceleration, turning and stability. ( I completely removed the top stock pads, FYI). I was using small pads because I was experimenting. But I lost one. I am now waiting to receive Grizlla Pads (for large wheels). I chose Grizlla because they are soft and reasonably priced (compare to expensive clark pads). Thanks you for helping me figure things out 🙏

Thank you EMA 🙏. Could you please let me know where tou go this information ? Please 🙏. I have so many follow up questions like wire size? what limits the power to 20W? How much is the front light consuming? where does this power come from? Is it limited by wire siE? relay? Transistor? motherboard trace/line/wire? Connector? etc… I like that I have 12V available, but ideally, I need to have my front light lit at the same time as my back lights so having you source might allow me to dig further (before I actually open my wheel and reverse engineer the front light system). Thanks, Michel

Question to all: -> Does anyone knows the VOLTAGE of the Begode Master FRONT LIGHT ? Does anyone knows how many amps it draws? How big the wise is (like in AWG) ? Why do I ask: I am planning to add/install a ‘Police Car’ very bright, always on tail light (https://www.ebay.com/itm/354279217604?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=csdx2zr8rew&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=S5OzuvqmQVe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) I will install a buck converter if I have to, but would prefer keep it simple if I can use the power (and the convenience of the front light switch) of the existing front light If I have to use a DC-DC con-DC converter, I am thinking of using: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325148966318?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dyzbuaeaQu-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=S5OzuvqmQVe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (I will have to add a serial resistance to keep the input voltage below the 120V limit of the DC-DC converter. Question: -> Does anyone have a suggestion on a DC-DC converter that would accept input voltages of 134V and output of at least 30W ? Michel

Question to all: - I received my Begode Master in July. I enjoy it very much. The question is: why do I get beeps at exactly 30 mph? Here are my settings: Alarm setting = Turn off level 1 alarm Tilt back speed = 36mph Power alarm = 70% Maximum speed reminder = 62mph When it beeps, it is always at 30 mph exactly, always on flat (or going slightly down) and always on constant speed (very little variation). The battery level seems irrelevant varying between 45% and 90%. Is it because the tilt-back ‘anticipates’ that I am getting close to the 36 mph setting? and start warning me at 30 mph? When I do a firmware update, I select ‘Master c01’ because this was the only option available when I originally got the Master, but now there are many other names I could select on the firmware update list including many non ‘Master’. They should only list the firmware update that my wheel can work with. This is improper practice from Begode. Michel

I weight about 160-165 and I standardized the stock suspension setting at 240-250 lbs. This makes the wheel go down by less than 1 inch when I get on it. I also tried removing all dampers (the knob on the suspension). Going through small rocks (a rough gravel road), I got tired of the vibration. I added about 1.5 turn on the damper and it felt much better. Those dampers are design to reduce specific ‘frequencies of oscillation’ depending on the damper knob adjustment. The less damper you add, the higher the frequency it will absorb. Michel, engineer

Bug in Darknessbot I was using the app Darknessbot (on iOS) and it worked fine on my old Rockwheel 16 inches and also on my new Begode Master (I believe I have v1.5, with 3 capacitors but no fan). About one month ago, there was an app update and since then Darknessbot does not show any data from the Begode Master. I waited for Darknessbot to make another update thinking it was a bug, but even though there was an update of Darkness bot about 2-3 weeks ago, it still fails to update any data about my master. Here is the actual behavior: a) Load Darknessbot b) Select my Master (using the same name as when I use with the Begode app (which works fine) c) After selecting the Master in Darknessbot, I got the main display that shows all the data like speed, max speed, temperature, Milage, etc. But ALL DATA show a spinning wheel like it is waiting from the wheel to send the data. All the boxes that is supposed to contain the data do not show any data and show a spinning array in each of the boxes. Except for Outside temperature and the compass (which I think comes from the phone instead of the Master). The question is: does anyone else also have this problem? is there a work around? I tried uninstall it, re-installing it, reselecting Begode Master and I always get the same result on my iPhone 5s, iPad Air 2 and iPad Pro. Anyone can help me understand if I am alone with this problem? Michel

Question for everyone: 1) Bug in Darknessbot I was using the app Darknessbot (on iOS) and it worked fine on my old Rockwheel 16 inches and also on my new Begode Master (I believe I have v1.5, with 3 capacitors but no fan). About one month ago, there was an app update and since then Darknessbot does not show any data from the Begode Master. I waited for Darknessbot to make another update thinking it was a bug, but even though there was an update of Darkness bot about 2-3 weeks ago, it still fails to update any data about my master. Here is the actual behavior: a) Load Darknessbot b) Select my Master (using the same name as when I use with the Begode app (which works fine) c) After selecting the Master in Darknessbot, I got the main display that shows all the data like speed, max speed, temperature, Milage, etc. But ALL DATA show a spinning wheel like it is waiting from the wheel to send the data. All the boxes that is supposed to contain the data do not show any data and show a spinning array in each of the boxes. Except for Outside temperature and the compass (which I think comes from the phone instead of the Master). The question is: does anyone else also have this problem? is there a work around? I tried uninstall it, re-installing it, reselecting Begode Master and I always get the same result on my iPhone 5s, iPad Air 2 and iPad Pro. Anyone can help me understand if I am alone with this problem? Michel

You can always replace the Master headlight by a stronger one. You have to double check the voltage for sure, but I would also check the size of the wire that goes to the light and make sure the wire is big enough for a new light you are planning to install (you can use one of those wire size to amp table).

I had my Master for about 1.5 months and I did notice the lights have 3 settings: 1) Off 2) Very dim until you speed up (automatic) 3) Flashing (bright) Yes, the dim (setting #2) is VERY dim. And I only did ride about 5 minutes at night (in automatic dimming setting) and I was pleasantly surprised to see how much they lit (I was expecting mediocre). Michel

It is hard to be certain for us viewers that this sound does not come from the wood beams under the wheel. But if this sound comes from the Master, I would look into replacing the motor.

I am confused with those board versions. From what I know, there is a control board v1.0, v1.5 and v2.0. According to a previous post, the difference between v1 and v2 can be determined by the number of capacitors on the control board (as shown in the illustration below) What I do not understand is that user Wgm said On 7/3/2022 at 6:15 PM: “Switched to V2 control board and it's totally different. Way more easy power…” But the v2 control board is supposed to be NOT COMPATIBLE with the v1 board (v2 boards expect 67V (134/2V) battery packs). Question to user ‘Wgm’ (and all others who might understand more than I do): -> Do you mean ‘Switched to v1.5’ ? instead of v2 control board? -> If you really mean switched to v2, did you change your battery packs? Question for everyone: -> How do we recognize if I have v1.5? is it really the presence of a fan? The comment above from Wgm suggest there should be a real difference between v1 and v1.5? My understanding is that v1.5 does not have a fan; it might be v1 without any fan connected or it might be a different board. My goal is to understand if I have a board that can be switched to a better board without the need to replace the battery packs. Michel T., confused

This 10,368W is misleading when read on its own. Indeed, the data (https://electro.club/track/45676?time=1656855501.986&csv=1) shows a wheel that cut-off and crashed. You can see the Amperage breaching 90A from time 15:38:20.345 @ 93A up to 15:38:21.785 @ 98A. The current remained above 90A for 1.44sec and was followed by a cut-off (0A). Then from 15:38:22.204 until 15:38:23.057 when the gps speed went from 72 (kmph) to 2.4 (a hard crash in 0.853 sec). My point is: the wheel is incapable of those kinds of powers and 1.44 sec of this excess was allowed before the circuitry decided to abort this abuse before hardware damage. Hardware damage in those situations are usually melted metal or wire insulation preventing shorts. Please do not think this wheel is capable of 10.3 kW. Its motor is rated 3500W which the wheel might be able to sustain. It is common for electric motors to allow peaks sometimes of twice its rated power for a few seconds (7000W in our case). This is common when a motor starts spinning. Conclusion: This wheel cannot handle more than 90A. If you try… you will crash. I do not know how the motherboard is programed, nor the wire size of the entire wheel, but we know the wheel spec: 3500W motor with a battery of about 110V (under stress) which gives us 3500W/110V= 31.8A. So this wheel is designed for about sustained 30A and I am sure allows peaks of 60A and 90A but for short durations… above that it cuts-off. Michel

Does anyone knows what the 3rd wire of the battery packs is used for? Obviously 2 wires are used for power. But what is the 3rd wire used for? Data? Status? Failures? Balancing? anybody knows? Anybody have seen the answer to this question anywhere? Michel

200A-220A must be a mistake. That wheel cannot handle that much power (that would be above 23232W = 116V x 200A). The motor on this wheel is rated 3500W. 3500W with 116V is 30A. 200A would melt any normal wire in a fraction of a second.

When I look at the cell spec: https://e2e.ti.com/cfs-file/__key/communityserver-discussions-components-files/196/INR21700_2D00_50E-Cell-Specification_5F00_V1.0_5F00_180711.pdf For a wheel with 4 series of cells in parallel, I find: continuous of (4 x 9.8A) = 34A. 34A x 116V nominal (32s x 3.63V) = 3900W (continuous cell capacity). And a peek cell capacity of (4 x 14.7A) = 58.8A. Which is 6821W (116V nominal x 8.8A). I might be wrong, but as far as I know, this wheel beeps and does cut off. It has a spec motor of 3500W (spec: http://www.begode.com/productinfo/770685.html). Those 3 facts (motor spec and battery spec mixed with beeps and designed cut offs), I like to think (and optimistically hope) that Begode did ‘the right thing’ and implement those beeps and cut offs according to the cell spec (and BMS and wiring around it) and I would think the cell are protected and will not be abused. It is hard to know for sure, considering Begode lie (about range, capacity and who knows what else), but I will trust that the beeps and the cut off will make sure the 3900W/6821W the battery cells can provide will be well above what the beeps and cut offs are implemented. That is an 11% margin protecting the battery cells (3900W cell nominal /3500W motor. with a peak of 6821W cell peak / 3500W motor = 195%). What does this all mean? I feel comfortable believing the Begode Master wheel is designed to protect its cells and will not let them run out of their limits and therefore will unlikely damage those cells and keep the risk of fire very low even if this means cut offs will occur to protect the wheel. You have a good point saying the wheel BMS is not as smart as solar system battery packs. And I will revise my suggestion to fully charge the wheel more often than every 50 cycles. And now we will be guessing (for a lack of guidance from Begode) and we should fully charge our wheels like for slow riders maybe every 20-30 cycles and every 2-3 months minimum. And for fast rider, it does depend how much you push your wheel. If you abuse it like an horror movie with regular beeps and cut offs, then a full charge could be at every charge in those extreme insane limits. I bought this wheel because I was riding my Rockwheel close to its limits (22 mph) way too often. I did not trust that Rockwheel S16 and I wanted a wheel that has way more capacity than I need so I could feel safe and not be cut off again. I do not plan to have any cut offs ever with my Master. And all the rides that I have plan have a variety of range from 5 to 45 miles with a handful around 45-50 miles. I will charge my wheel usually to 90% when I know I only need 50% range. I will charge to 100% every month or so or when I exceed a 35-40 miles planned ride. Good luck to all of us and let’s keep our limbs in good standing. Michel