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Ksmack

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    Colorado
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    KS16X, KS-S18, V8F

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  1. Does that mean my S18 can climb a 60 degree slope according to Inmotion measurement methods? Awesome! I have no reason to upgrade.
  2. I don’t have much experience with Nylon. I do know with ASA/ABS I need a brim printing in an enclosure to stop warping. There was also some shrinkage. With PETG warping wasn’t an issue and very little shrinkage. i imagine with ASA or PETG you could get away printing with a 20% infill. I would still bring the bracket that joins everything at 60% though. This piece is doing a lot of work.
  3. I think you could definitely print it lighter than what I did. I was a bit paranoid about making sure the panels were beefy enough to handle jump pads for jumps and tumbles at the bike park. I haven’t t done any extensive testing, but I imagine nylon would work with less infill. It would just take some testing. Even with ASA I imagine you could get away with adding a perimeter wall and reducing the infill. With my settings I think the two panels used about 1.5kgs of material. It definitely ways more than the original shell I think, but that was a bit flimsy. I could have made the panels thinner, but that makes it harder to use the heat inset screw holders. I’d recommend printing some smaller test parts to see how those work with less infill. I’d love to know how it turns out!
  4. What about 6kg of titanium? That should be super light.
  5. I finally got some time to publish my S18 fairing/side panel design. You can find it here. It is an involved print, but has transformed the wheel for me. After 400 miles of winter riding everything is holding up well. https://www.printables.com/model/422481-kingsong-s18-side-panel-and-fairing-replacement
  6. I checked with them. This is apparently the new tube they use. I think I’m just going to send the motor back to them and have them do it for me. Only so many hours in the day…
  7. It is time to replace my 16X tire with another H-666. I have changed my S18 tire before without issue, but am stuck with the 16X. The issue is getting the valve in with the new tube. I have a V12 tube that ewheels is sent me but the valve stem has a different angle than the original. I can’t get it in the rim opening no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions before I send the wheel back to ewheels to get the tire replaced? In the photo you can see the difference in tube angle. I can’t use the old tube as it is ripped.
  8. Lol. I’m working on getting them up on Thingsverse.
  9. Here is a video I saw about this sometime ago. This is what got me thinking about designing and printing my own fairings.
  10. My solution is not ideal, but has held up for nearly 2000 miles. After figuring out what shim set works best (not perfect, but best) I start by tightening the bolts on the non-motor wire side to about 80-90% while doing my best to keep the rim centered in the wheel well. Then I switch to the other side and tighten this bolts in a cross pattern to 80-90%. I then tighten the two bolts closest to the motor on the non-cable side to about 95% followed by the two bolts furthest from the axle. I switch to the other side and do the same thing. Every time I switch I try to make sure the motor stays in the center. Doing this iteratively (it can take hours) I can get 7 out of the 8 axel screws fully tightened and on of them just short of tight and have the sliders move freely. I haven’t noticed any major vibrations from this. I bought my wheel new and the sliders were pretty sticky from the factory due to misalignment.
  11. I haven’t gotten around to posting the files yet as I still have some small tweaks to be made. I’ll probably put it up on Thingsverse or printables. There are a lot of parts to print!
  12. I know you can achieve most of this with the cutting board trick, but I really wanted to redesign things. It is way more functional and has a bit of a mad max vive to it with the silver screws. This is my first major printing project. I’m surprised at how tough the shell is compared to the original. Definitely an upgrade in impact performance. I haven’t put on the rear bumpers yet.
  13. Here are some photos. I decided to make the shell out of a series of smaller prints so that everything fit on my print bed. It is printed out in ABS. There is a center panel held in by 6 screws. When performing a tire change or servicing the sliders this is the only panel that needs to come off. The rest of the shell stays intact. At the front and back on the faces are screw in attachment points. I used threaded heat inserts. I’ve got a custom front bumper that also acts as a very stable stand. At some point I might make a TPU front handle/bumper. I printed out so Grizzla pad clones as well. Everything fits together nicely. Also, there is much better protection for the sliders. It is harder for dirt to get in there, but it is still pretty easy to lubricate them.
  14. Agreed! I finally got so fed up with the shell/fairing on the S18 that I just designed and 3d printed my own. I can’t believe how much better it feels and runs. No more weird creaks and groans. As a bonus, it is far more protective and has lots of external threaded attachment points. The case makes the wheel even thinner overall. It actually is thinner than my V8f’s widest point!
  15. Nice! What is Marty style? How fast were you going? Around 20mph? Getting 37 miles is a pretty decent result.
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