OliverH Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 I got a KS16 828 Wh yesterday from a friend with shaking/ rattering where the motor doesn't like to start. It doesn't like like abrunde MOSFET- all Infos from my friend. For unknown reason the mainboard was changed with no success. The KS16 is currently apart. Can someone tell me if the Mainboard LED has any fault or status functionality? I'll put all the parts together this evening to see the fault by self, check the correct firmware is installed/ calibrate it, check if there's play in the pedal arms and the last check will be Hall sensors/ cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 The KS16 was on the correct C version (1.20) and I updated it to 1.22 and tried a level calibration. No success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEC Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 This could be related to the motor black round multi-plug (containing both hall sensor wires and all 3 motor wires). Have you check if any of the pins is not bent or snapped off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 1 minute ago, HEC said: This could be related to the motor black round multi-plug (containing both hall sensor wires and all 3 motor wires). Have you check if any of the pins is not bent or snapped off? Different length but looks good. The error happened to the rider while driving uphill. I think it's a short cable or hall sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason McNeil Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Have you checked the wheel-nuts that tightens the motor to the pedal shafts? It could be this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 2 hours ago, Jason McNeil said: Have you checked the wheel-nuts that tightens the motor to the pedal shafts? It could be this. That's the next step. Your talking about the two Inbus (hexagon socket) screws of the pedal arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Is that normal that the screws of the pedal arm are "glued" with silicone rubber? Is there any recommendation for the torque value (using a torque wrench) of the screws? As there's no readable grade on the screw I tend to keep with 25 Nm (8.8 grade screw) and use loctite. Are there any values from Kingsong? http://www.zemo-tools.de/index.php?sprache=de&rubrik=4&code=26 Do I need new inserts for the low pedal arm? Or can they be reused? As I've new arms ready to be mounted I'll use the new ones to assemble the stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 The harness of the motor is fixed in the middle with electrician tape in black and green color. Is this standard from factory? Haven't seen it Sylveres video for replacing the tire tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flass Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 6 minutes ago, OliverH said: The harness of the motor is fixed in the middle with electrician tape in black and green color. Is this standard from factory? Haven't seen it Sylveres video for replacing the tire tube. Mine is (was) fixed with tape, but not in black and green color. I guess this could differ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Just now, flass said: Mine is (was) fixed with tape, but not in black and green color. I guess this could differ... Straight after the harness comes out of the axle it's fixed around the harness with the green and black tape. Looks home made. I didn't talked about that fixation tape to keep the harness in the shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEC Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 37 minutes ago, OliverH said: Straight after the harness comes out of the axle it's fixed around the harness with the green and black tape. Looks home made. I didn't talked about that fixation tape to keep the harness in the shell. Looks like DIY "fix" of damaged cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 4 minutes ago, HEC said: Looks like DIY "fix" of damaged cable I've spoken with the guy. He did it for an unknown reason. I take it away and the harness was not damaged. It was as thick that it looked like a taped solder job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Back to the pedal arms. I pulled out the inserts of the old pedal arm. This doesn't look good, worn on the side. Never ever Have to ask @1RadWerkstatt for replacement for this KS and for our KS 16 as a spare part also. I thought this axle nuts are not good to stay long, but this inserts in the pedal arm are not better or more weak. Does anyone have seen the same symptoms? https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1raP1cqBpH3QVZ1UzF3Q2NfeUE https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1raP1cqBpH3eVBTRDZrcmIwTk0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 After a closer look and speaking with the guy again the story comes up: He had problems with play in the arms. To eliminate play he made soldering points, are this the inserts I posted above? Or do the lower pedal arm has this inserts by factory? @Jason McNeil What do you think? He used the silicone rubber to fix the screws to not come loose - instead of using Loctite. The silicone rubber got between the lower and upper pedal arm and he can't screw them as tight together. The axle looks OK, but the upper pedal arm shows wear and you can see the silicone rubber between the pedal arms halves. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1raP1cqBpH3RzlyVmJheVlFcHc DIY stuff by amateurs. I need something to calm down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xoltri Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Did these inserts go where the pedal arms clamp onto the axle coming out of the wheel? If so mine did not have that. My wheel did have some play that I had to fix as well though, what I did is filed the mating surfaces of the pedal arm so that they fit tighter together. That fixed the issue, I have several hundred km's on it now and have not had the arms come loose anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 3 minutes ago, xoltri said: Did these inserts go where the pedal arms clamp onto the axle coming out of the wheel? If so mine did not have that. My wheel did have some play that I had to fix as well though, what I did is filed the mating surfaces of the pedal arm so that they fit tighter together. That fixed the issue, I have several hundred km's on it now and have not had the arms come loose anymore. Thanks for clarification. This inserts were in the low pedal arm part between the pedal arm and the axle. The new pedal arm seems to have more play between the halves to address the problem you subscribed. So I'll put all together tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason McNeil Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 3 hours ago, OliverH said: To eliminate play he made soldering points, are this the inserts I posted above? Or do the lower pedal arm has this inserts by factory? @Jason McNeil What do you think? KS changed the pedal arm material from aluminum alloy to magnesium about four months back, it looks like yours are suffering from metal fatigue. Do you know how old it is? Can you source the part from 1RadWerkstatt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 48 minutes ago, Jason McNeil said: KS changed the pedal arm material from aluminum alloy to magnesium about four months back, it looks like yours are suffering from metal fatigue. Do you know how old it is? Can you source the part from 1RadWerkstatt? It's a black edition. June or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 I managed to put the new pedal arms on the KS16, pre assembled all together for some basic tests. The case is screwed to the pedal arms, the mainboard is screwed, so all should be fine now (gyro reading should be fine and stable). The KS16 is not shaking as before but it looks like there were two problems: pedal arms with play, fixed now and maybe a faulty winding or hall sensor. I think more about the hall sensor as it moves when it comes over the point. If the KS16 goes over the point where it jumps forward you could roll it, It feels hard. Haven't driven it as I only fixed temporarily the battery packs and the harness isn't final routed. As you can see in the video you need to lean strong forward and than it makes a jump. To test the Hall sensors I like to order some stuff from the electronic shop (5 V power supply, volt gauges, a PCB to solder the stuff on and solder in generic plugs to connect it to any Hall Sensor cable harness so I can use this for other EUCs also. The arrow on the control board shows in the driving direction where the power button is located. The arrows on the motor harness/ control board motor harness matches. If the hall sensor(s) is/are faulty can they be replaced or are they special? https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1raP1cqBpH3QmtDcHRzdDk1Zkk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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