Question about installing new motherboard - anything special I need to do beyond just installing?

[BKW]

Let me say this first, as it's important. I received a motherboard for my KS16X that's USED, and the person that sent it to me wasn't sure if it was functional since he got it off someone as well. This may be the reason why it didn't work as intended when I turned it on, but I'm just trying to see if it might be something else. So ignore the fact that the motherboard might be the issue for now...

Assuming the motherboard is working:

After installing this used motherboard on my KS16X outside, I went to turn it on and the only thing that turned on was the headlight. I also had to hold the headlight for the headlight to stay on. The motor never engaged or anything. It was basically a flashlight until I took my finger off the power button.

I never installed a new motherboard before. Is there something special I need to do to make it work? Perhaps something to do with transport mode? Or perhaps some app configuration? Or should I expect if I install a working motherboard the wheel should simply work without doing anything else?

Just trying to get some insight into this in case I'm missing anything.

Thanks

 

[alcatraz]

I'd ensure that the motor spins freely with the cables disconnected (isn't internally shorted) and it does so when connected (powered off) too (board isn't shorted).

I'd get a couple of board pictures including my old I'm replacing and ensuring the motor cable color coding is the same on all of them. If not I'd investigate before powering anything on. The wires can't be wrong even for a split second or damage is done.

If it still doesn't work I'd check for transport mode etc. Try to connect bluetooth and do a diagnostic. 

It might need repairs. (Which isn't impossible. I'm riding on a board that 5000km ago the manufacturer said they were unsuccessful at fixing it. I gave it to someone else and they fixed it.)

[alcatraz]

What's difficult is getting it repaired in a country where repairmen are liable for the stuff they touch. In those countries noone wants to be responsible for potential injury. It's really stupid because the best people won't take the job so you're left with dodgy people or getting a new board.

If you can get a pro to do you a favor and just do it "privately" then that's probably a job well done.

[BKW]

11 hours ago, alcatraz said:

I'd ensure that the motor spins freely with the cables disconnected (isn't internally shorted) and it does so when connected (powered off) too (board isn't shorted).

I'd get a couple of board pictures including my old I'm replacing and ensuring the motor cable color coding is the same on all of them. If not I'd investigate before powering anything on. The wires can't be wrong even for a split second or damage is done.

If it still doesn't work I'd check for transport mode etc. Try to connect bluetooth and do a diagnostic. 

It might need repairs. (Which isn't impossible. I'm riding on a board that 5000km ago the manufacturer said they were unsuccessful at fixing it. I gave it to someone else and they fixed it.)

Thank you for your response.

I see how these things can be difficult to diagnose, as it can be many things.

Upon installing this used motherboard, I noticed a semi-cut cord that seemed to lead somewhere towards the motor. I'm assuming this cord was semi-cut when I put the top on. I reconnected the wires to the same cord (same color wires), and then that's when I tried to turn on the wheel and only the headlight came on as I mentioned. This could be part of the problem, but if the wires are re-connected properly here I don't see why it could be unless I shorted something somewhere else. Once again, it could also be the used and untested control board.

Btw, the control board was version 1.5, as was my previous KS16X control board. However, I think the used control board is slightly older version of the 1.5 version I had initially.

Here are the pictures to semi-cut wire before I reconnected them:

[alcatraz]

It doesn't looked like that pinched cable is a part of the motor or that it got shorted.

Can you tell us how your old board died? 

There should be three thicker motor wires somewhere, and a small set of 5 (motor hall sensor). The hall sensor wire looks like it's at the bottom right in your pictures.

If you've got a hall sensor damage that could also explain why a good board doesn't work. We don't really know. 

[BKW]

On 3/6/2024 at 9:28 PM, alcatraz said:

It doesn't looked like that pinched cable is a part of the motor or that it got shorted.

Can you tell us how your old board died? 

There should be three thicker motor wires somewhere, and a small set of 5 (motor hall sensor). The hall sensor wire looks like it's at the bottom right in your pictures.

If you've got a hall sensor damage that could also explain why a good board doesn't work. We don't really know. 

The same person who sent me the "possible non-functioning KS16X control board" is going to send me another KS16X control board that he says works. I'll go ahead and install that when it gets here and I'll report back.

What led me to think something was wrong with my original KS16X control board was that (A) it was giving me an "over-current" warning, and (B) at one point when I was diagnosing it, it violently shook and blew a fuse. I thought I ruined it due to rain, but it might have been not working because that cut wire I showed in the picture. Unfortunately, I cut the control board wires on the original KS16X board for scraps, so if it wasn't bad before, now it is (this is before I knew of the severed wire shown in the picture).

[alcatraz]

I don't want to alarm you but if you have a failing motor or hall sensor (inside the motor) it could kill healthy control boards.

I'd still try it but I'd note the symptoms carefully and if I saw them again I'd avoid riding and try to figure it out before something else fails.

[BKW]

UPDATE:

Alright, so I got the second KS16X control board installed today. The person who sent me this board said it works, so I believe him (long story).

I installed everything correctly. I took it outside the apartment complex early in the morning to try and beat the crowds. The only plugs I left unplugged was the motor wire and the two battery wires. I made sure the power is completely drained by holding the power button with the plugs still unattached. While in an empty lot, I then proceed to first hook up the motor cable, then the two battery wires, then I turned it on.

Everything turned on, and seemed fine, but the motor didn't engage. I turned on the kingsong app and briefly looked over the metrics. Everything on the app seemed to read OK (good temps, good battery, the amps were drawing low, no beeps, firmware said it was up to date, etc). I was very nervous due to my recent experiences with EUCs, so I did not do a longer diagnostic check, so it's likely I might have missed something, but from what I could tell everything seemed fine. I didn't want to push my luck and decided to try a full-diagnostic at a more ideal time and location in the near future.

Once again, the only thing that didn't engage or turn on was the motor. I rolled it back-and-forth gently a couple feet, and the motor still not engaging.

Now, I remember before the KS16X went down I was having issues with the killswitch not re-engaging the motor at times, so it might have been the killswitch, not sure. I didn't think of that at the moment.

A quick reminder: prior, before the KS16X went bad, it was reading "over-current" and the amps were incredibly high and the wheel had a low rumble feel and sound to it. The day it died I remember I turned it on, the wheel started to violently shake, then it blew a fuse

Perhaps the motor needs to be calibrated? Maybe it's the killswitch not re-engaging? Any ideas or suggestions?

P.S. I did spin the wheel while on its side with my hand before turning it on today. I did this to see if the motor was seizing, and it turned fine; no resistance. Also, the pinched cable in the previous picture seemed to be the wire to the right speaker, so nothing serious there. The new control board also sent me a good wire too, so all the wires are good now.

Edited March 15 by BKW

[Paradox]

1 hour ago, BKW said:

Maybe it's the killswitch not re-engaging?

On the 18XL you can turn off the lift switch in the app. Not sure about the 16x though. Easy to try.

[BKW]

UPDATE:

Good news. I'm assuming the KS16X just needed to be powered on again after a little bit of time since last update installing the new motherboard (perhaps to recognize it had a new board installed(?)). I did nothing different this time when I went to do my quick diagnostic outside this morning, and everything turned on and the motor was engaged as normal. I looked at the diagnostics and everything was reading "normal", amps low, cool temps, all lights working, music, etc.

I remember reading somewhere after my last update that when installing a new motherboard sometimes it just needs to be turned on and off a couple times, so this is why I'm assuming it just needed a couple turn on/offs to recognize the new board? I looked at the diagnostics closer and pretty sure the overall mileage changed since installing new motherboard, as well as things like the serial number and the motherboard model name both on the app and on the bluetooth readings.

I quickly calibrated the wheel and decided to do a few deliveries on it over the next few hours. Everything is running smoothly. Last check was the charging aspect, and as I write this I have it charging next to me and everything reading normal.

 

   

Edited March 16 by BKW