Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh

[Rollin-on-1]

4 hours ago, Rawnei said:

One thing that comes to mind is loctite, did you take off the cover yourself at some point prior and used loctite when re-assembling? Loctite and plastic don't mix well it makes plastic brittle.

This is a very good point.  I wish I had paid closer attention, but I believe the screws had loctite on them already.  I did put loctite on during reassembly.  This could very well be what happened.

[Freeforester]

If the loctite got onto the plastic, all bets would be off, but having said that I’d imagine you might get a goodwill replacement, if you ask them nicely.

[Rawnei]

2 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

This is a very good point.  I wish I had paid closer attention, but I believe the screws had loctite on them already.  I did put loctite on during reassembly.  This could very well be what happened.

The Loctite already on the screws from factory shouldn't be a problem, it's the curing process that damages the plastic, I've made that mistake before as well.

Edited July 14, 2023 by Rawnei

[Uras]

10 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Or they just did it because they could.

business will always charge what they can, that's it. There is no other magic formula - it's just finding the limit of what most folk will pay.

[Barefooter]

FWIW...   Patton was delivered today...  After unboxing it my old guy brain was telling me maybe the jump from a V8S to a Patton is too much.. 

However, after a few minutes mounting, tight turns and slow riding are pretty much like on the V8S.  Not total control yet so there are times i take off through the grass for bit but that will get better soon.  Transition to backwards riding is going to take some practice.  That's the only time the weight of the Patton is evident other than when i miss a dismount and have to grab it..

The complementary power pads eWheels provided are going to take awhile to get used to.  As are the spiked pedals.

I haven't adjusted the suspension yet but so far it's really smooth.

 

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, Barefooter said:

After unboxing it my old guy brain was telling me maybe the jump from a V8S to a Patton is too much.. 

However, after a few minutes mounting, tight turns and slow riding are pretty much like on the V8S.

I had a similar experience jumping from a V12 to an Abrams. As it turned out, It wasn't as crazy bad had I anticipated. 

At the time of my V12 purchase, which was about a year earlier, I had an opportunity to jump on an Abrams. At that time, I thought the Abrams would be a bridge too far for me. It was way too big and heavy.

On the Abrams, what took me a while to get comfortable with were free-mount on a steep incline, and tight maneuvering on a slope, going up or down.

[Flygonial]

Tried a local’s recently acquired Patton, ended up feeling a bit more squirrelly than I expected though it’s a lot of fun at low speed. The wide tire wants to stay up a lot more than the Shinko I’m used to. I definitely didn’t spend enough time on it to really give informed thoughts on the ride feel myself though it certainly felt zippy and solidly built.

It kept up with a fast group ride mostly paced over 30 mph just fine, often hitting 40 or holding the high 30s. Its owner doesn’t want to take it out that often on those sorts of rides for the sake of cruising stability but for that night he was gapping the Master Pro off the line.

[techyiam]

3 hours ago, Flygonial said:

Tried a local’s recently acquired Patton, ended up feeling a bit more squirrelly than I expected

Holy moly, it doesn't sound like anybody in US cities who want to be in the fast group can bring a wheel that isn't capable of 50+ mph anymore. 

I guess there weren't many S22 Pro's in the fast group.

To the euc manufacturers, more speed please for the US market.

[Hellkitten]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Holy moly, it doesn't sound like anybody in US cities who want to be in the fast group can bring a wheel that isn't capable of 50+ mph anymore. 

I guess there weren't many S22 Pro's in the fast group.

To the euc manufacturers, more speed please for the US market.

We had a guy show up on an air wheel tonight for a group ride. We had to leave him behind at the first block. Poor dude. 
My friend has had the Patton a few days now and said it might be his favourite city wheel. 

Edited July 15, 2023 by Hellkitten

[jimjam.nyc]

I just received the Patton "seat" and side pads from Wheel Riders Store Ali Express. I believe its the same one some others got on here. While I feel like this is expensive for what it is, the side covers for the suspension caps are really worth it. The seat looks nice and is not terrible.. better than sitting on the plastic.

If you have an ability to print or have the money to buy the side pad parts.. It makes a huge difference on the comfort level as far as the top edge of the wheel digging into your leg is concerned. The little bit of extra grip and comfort go a long way for anyone who is having issues with the top edge of the Patton hurting their legs.

Just wanted to add my opinion to the list of people who got these covers/seat for the Patton

[Rollin-on-1]

46 minutes ago, jimjam.nyc said:

I just received the Patton "seat" and side pads from Wheel Riders Store Ali Express. I believe its the same one some others got on here. While I feel like this is expensive for what it is, the side covers for the suspension caps are really worth it. The seat looks nice and is not terrible.. better than sitting on the plastic.

If you have an ability to print or have the money to buy the side pad parts.. It makes a huge difference on the comfort level as far as the top edge of the wheel digging into your leg is concerned. The little bit of extra grip and comfort go a long way for anyone who is having issues with the top edge of the Patton hurting their legs.

Just wanted to add my opinion to the list of people who got these covers/seat for the Patton

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the flip up part of the seat and how it impacts the convenience of the trolley handle.  I trolley my wheel many times each day, so the flip up seat part is my biggest hesitation.

[stizl]

1 hour ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the flip up part of the seat and how it impacts the convenience of the trolley handle.  I trolley my wheel many times each day, so the flip up seat part is my biggest hesitation.

Also having this seat kit, the flip up seat completely covers the trolley handle and also makes the rear grab handle difficult to use, especially when wearing wrist guards, as it effectively more than doubles the diameter of the bar. The rear seat probably won’t fall off under any riding conditions, but it is held on by a friction fit with the foam, so it isn’t very secure laterally and it rotates around when trying to use the rear grab handle with it on.  

I personally can only see me leaving the rear seat on if doing a long distance street ride without much action.  The front seat by itself is quite small and a bit awkwardly forward for me at 5’9”, but better than nothing and may help protect the display screen from impacts.

I also think the topside pads are the best part of the kit. I would have happily bought them alone. During my first bumpy trail ride with them, I did lose each one at some point and had to backtrack to pick them up, as my knee pads would catch the lower edge and pop them off. I started to try to secure them with Velcro underneath, but then the flush fit to the top of the battery boxes is lost.

I ended up reinstalling the baby bumper foam over the seams where the side pads meet the boxes and they haven’t come off in the ~100mi of mixed conditions riding since. If they come off again, I’ll add Velcro to the sides of them and use the baby bumpers to hold them down.  

Edited July 15, 2023 by stizl

[stizl]

On 7/13/2023 at 1:33 PM, dycus said:

Great post!

I'm wanting to get a Patton and trying to decide which suspension to go for, based on my geared weight (~140lb).
One would think they'd be able to just calculate their sag based on their weight, the known weight of the Patton, and the suspension spring rate. However, this gives wildly inaccurate numbers!

For your example, you said your 175lbs + the Patton's ~67lbs sprung weight (guessing the motor is ~10kg based on ecodrift's measured 13kg Sherman-S motor) and 66lb/in springs resulted in 25mm sag with no preload. But if you actually calculate it:
175lb + 67lb = 242lb
242lb / (66lb/in * 2) = 1.83in (46.6mm), 86% more than you actually measured!

Where is the discrepancy? Are the coils actually higher spring rate than advertised? Your measurements suggest the springs are actually 119lb/in each!

Additionally, your weight is right at the threshold where Leaperkim suggests you should get the 58/62lb suspension, yet with the 66lb you're actually in the right sag range of 15-30%.

Seems like I should be going for the 62lb suspension despite Leaperkim's recommendations. Assuming a similar 1.8x spring rate factor, the 62lb springs may be more like 112lb/in, which would give me ~12-24mm sag (15-30%).

Good points.  I think the discrepancy may be the amount of preload that the springs already have as installed even with the preload adjusters fully backed out. The wheel sits solidly at the top of its travel under its own weight. 

I just turned it on, placed a 50lb weight on top, and it didn’t sag at all. I may later extend this experiment when I have time and add weights until it sags, but I’ll need to cut and weigh a piece of wood to span the grab bars, as I don’t want to damage the plastic top cover with too much weight.

I’ve yet to experience any noticeable bottom-outs even having backed the compression off to only 2 clicks from fully open and having done many ~1ft drops on trails. In hindsight, I probably would have been fine with the 62lb version, although I live in a very rocky and rooty area, so the additional pedal clearance gained from residing higher in the travel versus the additional comfort of a softer spring may still be worth it in my case. 

[jimjam.nyc]

2 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the flip up part of the seat and how it impacts the convenience of the trolley handle.  I trolley my wheel many times each day, so the flip up seat part is my biggest hesitation.

Like @stizl said. It hinders the use of the back bar for sure. I havent found too much issue with accessing my trolley handle to be honest. The seat flips up pretty easily and the trolley handle works fine. There is a minor inconvenience in accessing it. If you have bulky wrist gear it may be more of an issue.  If you are the type that will be annoyed by even having to take an extra step to pull up the handle, then maybe pass on this. 

I am small and am still getting used to the sitting position on the patton. I had a pretty high up and back leaning seat on my V12, so standing to sitting was so much easier.. but i am starting to get used to it.

I havent had the side pads fall off yet, but i am not riding trails or even too much of a crazy rider. So I can really say anything about how well they will stay attached.

 

 

[Cyberwolf]

3 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the flip up part of the seat and how it impacts the convenience of the trolley handle.  I trolley my wheel many times each day, so the flip up seat part is my biggest hesitation.

 

47 minutes ago, jimjam.nyc said:

Like @stizl said. It hinders the use of the back bar for sure. I havent found too much issue with accessing my trolley handle to be honest. The seat flips up pretty easily and the trolley handle works fine.

I'll echo the comment that I haven't noticed the rear flip-up seat causing any real issues, and really like the side padding. Flipping it up to use trolley handle is a complete non-issue.

I have had the flip-seat fall off a few times, but that's no suprise since my riding still sucks (first time ever on a wheel was last week) and I've spilled more than a few times (mostly on grass), but it just pops right back on.

I also haven't had any issues with access to the rear bar with seat on, despite the wider grip required, and up until last night (first time on pavement -  spent 45 mins cruising around neighborhood around 11pm when the Sun wasn't trying to make me spontaneously combust), every practice session has involved physically lifting the wheel to waist-height so I could get it in the jeep - with the rear seat attached...

One other thing I have noticed and was curious about - the odometer is showing more miles than I think can be accurate (not sure but doesn't seem like I rode that far)...Anyone else notice that?

Finally, haven't adjusted suspention yet, but feels pretty good with default settings so far (confirmed I'm at ~225 lbs w/ gear)

Edited July 15, 2023 by Cyberwolf

[Barefooter]

14 hours ago, Barefooter said:

Transition to backwards riding is going to take some practice.

Here's what I'm shooting for...  NOPE

 

[jimjam.nyc]

9 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said:

 

One other thing I have noticed and was curious about - the odometer is showing more miles than I think can be accurate (not sure but doesn't seem like I rode that far)...Anyone else notice that?

 

The wheel speeds/distance are usually bit off on all wheels. Funny enough I find the Patton to be more accurate than other wheels I have had. This is my first leaper kim wheel so I was pleasantly surprised with it being off by so little. lol

I think you can expect 5-10% difference on speedometer and odometer depending on the wheel.

I did contact Ewheels about Phantom battery drain. I am draining about .1 or .2 volts per day that its not in use. But they said that seems to be normal especially on the higher voltage wheels. Not sure if anyone else has this.. or if this is a leaper kim thing as well.. I think I heard begodes do the same and maybe KS wheels.

[dycus]

1 hour ago, stizl said:

Good points.  I think the discrepancy may be the amount of preload that the springs already have as installed even with the preload adjusters fully backed out. The wheel sits solidly at the top of its travel under its own weight. 

I just turned it on, placed a 50lb weight on top, and it didn’t sag at all. I may later extend this experiment when I have time and add weights until it sags, but I’ll need to cut and weigh a piece of wood to span the grab bars, as I don’t want to damage the plastic top cover with too much weight.

I’ve yet to experience any noticeable bottom-outs even having backed the compression off to only 2 clicks from fully open and having done many ~1ft drops on trails. In hindsight, I probably would have been fine with the 62lb version, although I live in a very rocky and rooty area, so the additional pedal clearance gained from residing higher in the travel versus the additional comfort of a softer spring may still be worth it in my case. 

Aah, that makes sense! There seems to be roughly ~112lbs of preload in your case, then (with preload in the stock position).

I guess regardless of anything else, the important thing is the sag you can achieve within the adjustment range, which seems perfect for you with the 66lb. And most people report going one spring rate higher than recommended and it being the right choice. I'm also intending for the Patton to be my new trail wheel, so a little higher pedal clearance would be good. Seems like the 62lb for me!

[Cyberwolf]

On 7/15/2023 at 8:02 AM, stizl said:

I also think the topside pads are the best part of the kit. I would have happily bought them alone. During my first bumpy trail ride with them, I did lose each one at some point and had to backtrack to pick them up, as my knee pads would catch the lower edge and pop them off. I started to try to secure them with Velcro underneath, but then the flush fit to the top of the battery boxes is lost.

 

Similar thing happened to me today, lost one of the side pads...

Bummer because I didn't notice it missing until I got home; went back looking for it, but no luck...

Probably gonna have to go without for a while, as even if I decide to buy an entire kit for just the one piece (not too likely), the first one took over a month to arrive...

That said, if I could buy just the side pad (or even just a pair of side pads) and didn't have such a long shipping delay, that order would go in today, and I'd stick them on with double-sided ultra thin "arts & crafts" fabric tape...

Edited July 16, 2023 by Cyberwolf

[CalebKale]

Just went for my first serious off-road adventure tonight. Patton crushed the trails/pump track/jump track. Jumps were amazing - incredibly easy to send and soar through the air. It's truly a pleasure to ride.

I'm at 134 miles with a 66lb.

Zero major issues so far with the wheel, even after multiple people full sent the jumps. First ever minor issue appeared on the ride, beeper stopped working (it was beeping super super short), but the problem manically vanished by the end of the ride.

No, my battery did not magically pop out of the bottom of my chassis even after 3 dozen jumps or so. 😁

[Rawnei]

On 7/9/2023 at 11:00 PM, Al Alcatraz said:

The headlight the LeaperKim Patton deserves!

This is the Arctic v3.1+

Does not stick out because it fits perfectly between the the batteries above the wheel.

A red 3 phase switch has been installed on the bottom of the lamp by an electric scooter workshop. They assured me that it is water resistant.

The headlamp has an integrated daytime running light that consumes only 3.8 watts.

I like the orange/yellow look but there is also a version with white/blue light.

The main light consumes 20 watts. Not much more than the regular lamp.

However, the difference is like day and night. The light of the LEDs is spread by the lenses evenly and has a clear cut-off line. 

I am extremely happy with the result. I've tested it now for almost a week and had no complains from pedestrians.

 

I'm thinking of doing the same, on the stereo plug which is which? (positive, negative, beeper)

[Al Alcatraz]

23 hours ago, Rawnei said:

I'm thinking of doing the same, on the stereo plug which is which? (positive, negative, beeper)

I took the stereo plug together with the cable from the original headlight.

But in case you want to use your own stereo plug I found this instruction useful:

The yellow cable in this example is in the original cable white. It's obviously for the beeper.

Edited July 21, 2023 by Al Alcatraz

[unicycle bunny]

On 7/20/2023 at 1:35 AM, Rawnei said:

I'm thinking of doing the same, on the stereo plug which is which? (positive, negative, beeper)

please share a link if you'll find a suitable light? too many spooked grandmothers last night jumping left and right... 

[Rawnei]

21 minutes ago, unicycle bunny said:

please share a link if you'll find a suitable light? too many spooked grandmothers last night jumping left and right... 

Well I'm looking at the same light as Al Alcatraz, the Arctic 3.1, I am just contemplating how to mount it on the Sherman S also, would need to design something and it would be a very tight fit.

[Cyberwolf]

@Al Alcatraz - Where were you able to find power specs for the stock light and power/driver (18W) which was mentioned previously?  I was looking for that info, but couldn't find it...

I haven't had any free time to work on this yet, but as I couldn't find documented power specs, I'm planning to:

1.  Temporarily route an intermediary cable betwen jacks on light and wheel, allowing me to a) - easily grab line-voltage with multimeter, and b) - use a Hall sensor to measure 'actual' draw (amperage) from the light.  This should give me real-world power metrics.

2.  Find the best light I can which falls below the previously identified top-draw, and go from there.  If needed, I may try something more powerful but with a current-limiting circuit inline, but haven't got there yet - just know that I need ALL the lumens!

Edited July 21, 2023 by Cyberwolf