Cerbera Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 (edited) After pre-ordering a while back, my Master rolled off the production line a couple of days ago, and now sits in port awaiting its 6 weeks at sea while they get it over to the UK. After what is already seeming like a painfully long and unbearable exercise in delayed gratification I am resolved to have everything ready for it the moment it arrives, and having watched all the teardown vids so far I have decided I need to improve / finish some stuff before mine hits the trail. most notably those rather weak-looking plastic battery cases, and that rubbish rear light. I have spent most of my remaining budget on upgraded armour for me, so can't afford some custom metal cases right now, so am looking for suitable and affordable ways to protect those batteries a bit more than we get as standard. My first thought is <2mm adhesive metal plates on the outward facing surfaces, on to which I can mount my velcro for the pads, and possibly some extra corner reinforcement strips as well, as those pesky rocks are bound to find the corners first in any sort of crash or drop. The pads will go over the top of those, stuck with velcro, and any areas not covered by leg pads will get baby bumper strip for an extra level of cushioning. I figure I can probably leave the inside facing surfaces as they are. I want the metal plating to cover the small black screws on the battery packs to further hinder rain ingress there. What do we think about this plan overall ? Flaws, better ideas etc etc ? Secondly, I am hoping some kindly soul who already has a Master could provide me with the dimensions of the battery packs so I can order my pre-cut metal sheets in advance of getting the wheel. I was planning to get it from these guys, who offer a bewildering array of different types of metal plating, and maybe to get the Stainless steel flat plates of all the various other options offered, which I hope should provide the most flat and suitable surface for sticking stuff to, both sides, whilst also not rusting or corroding. I've already got some industrial strength velcro for the outward pad facing sides, but very happy and grateful for any recommendations you may have about what sort of adhesive pads might be best to stick the plates to the battery cases in a way that a) has a stronger bond than the velcro I'll be putting on the other side of it, and b) might be weak enough to break away from the plastic casing should that ever expand due to a battery catastrophe ... I'm sure 3M do something suitable, but what ?! I am not having many great ideas about how I can stop that rear light just crumbling to dust at the first sign of trouble - I see a lot of people have removed it altogether, but if there was a reasonable way to strengthen it, then I figured you guys might know, or have ideas... Cheers everyone CBR Edited July 8, 2022 by Cerbera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Brahan Seer Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 14 minutes ago, Cerbera said: I am not having many great ideas about how I can stop that rear light just crumbling to dust I am thinking of using clear Heli-tape or MTB frame protector tape to put over an area like this. I don't think it would necessarily stop it breaking per se but would keep it all together if it does crack. Cost ranges from £10-30. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted July 8, 2022 Author Share Posted July 8, 2022 (edited) I think that's a good plan, Seer. Probably that, and then some additional baby bumper on top of it I reckon - initially I was thinking just on the sides, but then I remember how invisible that light is in daylight, wonder who it's for anyway, and rather come to the conclusion that I don't particularly care if it is completely obscured by foam ! Edited July 8, 2022 by Cerbera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul g Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 On 7/8/2022 at 5:45 PM, Cerbera said: After pre-ordering a while back, my Master rolled off the production line a couple of days ago, and now sits in port awaiting its 6 weeks at sea while they get it over to the UK. After what is already seeming like a painfully long and unbearable exercise in delayed gratification I am resolved to have everything ready for it the moment it arrives, and having watched all the teardown vids so far I have decided I need to improve / finish some stuff before mine hits the trail. most notably those rather weak-looking plastic battery cases, and that rubbish rear light. I have spent most of my remaining budget on upgraded armour for me, so can't afford some custom metal cases right now, so am looking for suitable and affordable ways to protect those batteries a bit more than we get as standard. My first thought is <2mm adhesive metal plates on the outward facing surfaces, on to which I can mount my velcro for the pads, and possibly some extra corner reinforcement strips as well, as those pesky rocks are bound to find the corners first in any sort of crash or drop. The pads will go over the top of those, stuck with velcro, and any areas not covered by leg pads will get baby bumper strip for an extra level of cushioning. I figure I can probably leave the inside facing surfaces as they are. I want the metal plating to cover the small black screws on the battery packs to further hinder rain ingress there. What do we think about this plan overall ? Flaws, better ideas etc etc ? Secondly, I am hoping some kindly soul who already has a Master could provide me with the dimensions of the battery packs so I can order my pre-cut metal sheets in advance of getting the wheel. I was planning to get it from these guys, who offer a bewildering array of different types of metal plating, and maybe to get the Stainless steel flat plates of all the various other options offered, which I hope should provide the most flat and suitable surface for sticking stuff to, both sides, whilst also not rusting or corroding. I've already got some industrial strength velcro for the outward pad facing sides, but very happy and grateful for any recommendations you may have about what sort of adhesive pads might be best to stick the plates to the battery cases in a way that a) has a stronger bond than the velcro I'll be putting on the other side of it, and b) might be weak enough to break away from the plastic casing should that ever expand due to a battery catastrophe ... I'm sure 3M do something suitable, but what ?! I am not having many great ideas about how I can stop that rear light just crumbling to dust at the first sign of trouble - I see a lot of people have removed it altogether, but if there was a reasonable way to strengthen it, then I figured you guys might know, or have ideas... Cheers everyone CBR I was about to open a subject similar to yours. You said you can’t afford custom metal casing for battery packs. Do you know anybody doing that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) Just a thought. I know the battery casing looks flimsy, it is. But thusfar, even with a number of hull loss incidents (term stolen from airplane accidents, where the plane is totaled), the batteries and rims are about the only thing not getting destroyed. I am certain the big foam bumper-cushion-pads are helping—perhaps doing what you can to retain them in your new pad setup might be sufficient? Edited July 10, 2022 by Tawpie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul g Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 5 hours ago, Tawpie said: Just a thought. I know the battery casing looks flimsy, it is. But thusfar, even with a number of hull loss incidents (term stolen from airplane accidents, where the plane is totaled), the batteries and rims are about the only thing not getting destroyed. I am certain the big foam bumper-cushion-pads are helping—perhaps doing what you can to retain them in your new pad setup might be sufficient? @Tawpie Even so, you need better water resistance for batteries, and especially I would never trust those flimsy cases from “Begode, the artist formerly known as GotWay” (citation here from Hsiang?) 😄 And no doubt, the top of the wheel needs some form of custom protection as well. Some extruded Al casings for batteries would be great, but that extrusion head is expensive to order, and could only be made by someone with a lot of money and a lot of costumers. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 Here's a idea - simply buy different/better euc. I personally would not buy a wheel, where i can see already from day 1 a problem happening in future. Spending extra 200-400$ for custom protection is so dumb. The wheel should have had a better casing from the factory. But no.. We have those flimsy things. Even if you put "corner" protection and plates.. Over time the place where screws are, it will crack anyways. Simply bad design and nothing more. Yet people still buy shit. Same as S22 sliders.. Enjoy repairing that shit 2 times a year - at least. But i digress. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 C'mon, the wheel can do 100km/h and offroad like crazy. They're going to have to settle for a level of protection that an average user is going to need. It shouldn't be hard to protect the corners though. To the OP I'd like to say that if you plan on dropping the wheel dozens of times you are going to crack the frame sooner or later. Make sure to order spare parts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted July 11, 2022 Author Share Posted July 11, 2022 (edited) 21 hours ago, Tawpie said: Just a thought. I know the battery casing looks flimsy, it is. But thusfar, even with a number of hull loss incidents (term stolen from airplane accidents, where the plane is totaled), the batteries and rims are about the only thing not getting destroyed. I am certain the big foam bumper-cushion-pads are helping—perhaps doing what you can to retain them in your new pad setup might be sufficient? I agree - I haven't seen any big stacks of that wheel so far where the batteries do get mangled other than a bit of case scuffage, but I imagine its only a matter of time before the massive weight of that wheel comes down on a pointy rock at just the wrong angle, and then suddenly everything's on fire ! I just thought the metal plate thing would be relatively easy and cheap to do, and might add a level of extra resistance to the equation... 15 hours ago, Paul g said: Even so, you need better water resistance for batteries, and especially I would never trust those flimsy cases from “Begode ...and indeed that's the other reason. Plating the batteries would allow me to completely cover those screws that we know do let in water after use in heavy rain unless we make some extra effort to stop that. I don't think we have to even make that much effort - tape would probably do it, but it's just a nice extra thing I'd get if I did go the plates way. 14 hours ago, Funky said: Here's a idea - simply buy different/better euc. Too late ! I know a lot of people have had terrible problems with their Gotway's in the past, and ropey design / manufacturing has definitely contributed to that or been entirely at fault there. But I think they do learn from past mistakes, and take on rider feedback, sometimes even from batch to batch, and I think I see a general improvement in their designs, component choices and assembly procedures over time as well... Also, and I may have just been lucky, but my MS3 has been extremely reliable over the 5 years I have ridden it almost daily, which has made me trust them a lot more than I originally did, such that I am willing to give them another go (and 2.5K) for another one of their wheels. And I don't believe there IS another machine that can do quite what that one does, which is why I am prepared to spend a little time of my own just adding some final additions to help its longevity along a bit ! 11 hours ago, alcatraz said: To the OP I'd like to say that if you plan on dropping the wheel dozens of times you are going to crack the frame sooner or later. Make sure to order spare parts. I really don't plan on doing that ! And as I understand it spare parts (other than battery packs and control boards) for that machine are simply not available so far !! If anyone knows differently please let me know ! But I do live in the UK, where rain is a big thing, and I know there will invariably be falls along the way as I build trust in it, and test its abilities (and also mine on it !) so think I should probably do something to improve things. Cheers everyone CBR Edited July 11, 2022 by Cerbera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted July 11, 2022 Author Share Posted July 11, 2022 On 7/10/2022 at 10:04 AM, Paul g said: You said you can’t afford custom metal casing for battery packs. Do you know anybody doing that? I did find these guys, who don't have a minimum order quantity, and there are lots of companies that will just do you plain metal sheeting, and cut it up for you into custom sizes - I think I put a link to one of them in my OP. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c5flybyu Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 (edited) The whole fairing and seat cover from Clark looks pretty great! https://clarkpads.com/collections/fairings/products/begode-master-complete-seat-bumper-fairing-system Edited July 14, 2022 by c5flybyu 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 (edited) 49 minutes ago, c5flybyu said: The whole fairing and seat cover from Clark looks pretty great! https://clarkpads.com/collections/fairings/products/begode-master-complete-seat-bumper-fairing-system Ofc it's great. There's no doubt about that. What isn't great, is that the wheel needs extra protection worth ~400$. On top of it's price. If money is not a problem, go buy it and be done. - I would do that. Doh that is full combo. They also offer: Begode Master - Seat & Bumper Combo (Fairing & Pads Not Included) $179.00 Begode Master - Fairing & Bumper System (pads not included) $199.00 < If you don't need a seat.. Edited July 14, 2022 by Funky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c5flybyu Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 2 hours ago, Funky said: Ofc it's great. There's no doubt about that. What isn't great, is that the wheel needs extra protection worth ~400$. On top of it's price. If money is not a problem, go buy it and be done. - I would do that. Doh that is full combo. They also offer: Begode Master - Seat & Bumper Combo (Fairing & Pads Not Included) $179.00 Begode Master - Fairing & Bumper System (pads not included) $199.00 < If you don't need a seat.. 100% Agree. It's expensive and isn't great that Begode made such a beast of a wheel that's so fragile. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.