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knocking noise


DPowell

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I'm getting a knocking noise when I rotate my wheel.  I was rolling around in the neighborhood trying to get some practice in and when I get close to home, I pull up in the driveway and I'm hearing a knocking noise.  Like something is bouncing around in the wheel cavity.  I opened up both sides of the euc case (gotway RS), nothing is loose.   I'm not too eager to jump in the guts of the wheel without some input on the noise.

Anybody know what that noise is?

 

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I had similar problem, it happened on my first bigger ride with new RS HT after about 7-10 km. I sent video with very similar noise to MyEwheel, they contacted Gotway (Begode) just to be sure and problem is bearing, which is needed to be change.

My serial number ends with 91, I ordered in mid-september (it took reaaaly long to get the wheel). Great communication and service from MyEwheel, but unfortunately I'm without my new EUC for some time.

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On 12/8/2020 at 7:52 PM, DPowell said:

I'm getting a knocking noise when I rotate my wheel.  I was rolling around in the neighborhood trying to get some practice in and when I get close to home, I pull up in the driveway and I'm hearing a knocking noise.  Like something is bouncing around in the wheel cavity.  I opened up both sides of the euc case (gotway RS), nothing is loose.   I'm not too eager to jump in the guts of the wheel without some input on the noise.

Anybody know what that noise is?

 

I think its related to the alignment of the individual magnets in the motor. I just got my RS a few days ago too and everything was smooth until i bumped it into a pole pretty hard. within 10 min of that, this same sound started. I checked beneathe both of the side panels and nothing seemed dislodged or whatever, but the sound was still there....so i took off the shell entirely, and ran the wheel on the ground using just the pedal hangers, and the sound was still there. took off the pedal hangers then, the motor cover, and looked inside the hollow bore motor and again, found nothing. note: at this point, the stator "sticks" to one side of the rotor, and you cant even turn the wheel without a lot of friction. i think in a perfect magnetic alignment, the rotor/stator assembly would be physically separated throughout their inner and outer circumference. i hope thats not confusing. long story short, i put everything back together and the sound was gone finally. took it out for a ride and the sound stayed gone. then i took it to work and encountered some bumpy terrain and the sound did return a bit intermittently, but definitely not as severe. 2 rides after that, no sound again. the excess cable thing that a few ppl have mentioned here seems like....hmm...no. it mightve worked for them, but i tried the same and pulled out a few cm of power and data cabling, but to no avail..anyway, take it apart and see if that helps (all you need is an allen key set, and some flathead screw drivers - for the motor covers, be careful not to put the screwdrivers too deep, otherwise ull mess up the insulated wires - windings, and a small philips head screwdriver. there are many tutorials showing how. check out EUC Bros on youtube), or email ewheels.com assuming thats where you got it, and see if they can help....keep us updated, hope it works out!

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14 hours ago, StealthPhoenix said:

I think its related to the alignment of the individual magnets in the motor. I just got my RS a few days ago too and everything was smooth until i bumped it into a pole pretty hard. within 10 min of that, this same sound started. I checked beneathe both of the side panels and nothing seemed dislodged or whatever, but the sound was still there....so i took off the shell entirely, and ran the wheel on the ground using just the pedal hangers, and the sound was still there. took off the pedal hangers then, the motor cover, and looked inside the hollow bore motor and again, found nothing. note: at this point, the stator "sticks" to one side of the rotor, and you cant even turn the wheel without a lot of friction. i think in a perfect magnetic alignment, the rotor/stator assembly would be physically separated throughout their inner and outer circumference. i hope thats not confusing.

It makes perfect sense to me. Certainly, the sounds I have heard from videos posted sound much more like a magnet/coil collision than a loose motor cable/blob of silicone, which to be perfectly honest are nothing more than red herrings IMO.

The stator will always stick to one side without any central axis location. No motor will be perfectly matched in magnetic force throughout it's circumference so that's not really an issue. I still think theres a clearance issue even with the axis in place though.

It may be that the bearing outers are not tight enough in their recesses which allows them to move a little after a crash/knock which may possibly run the stator out of alignment. I'm not 100% on whether this is possible as I've never stripped an RS, but this knocking problem did not exist on pre-hollow motors and the RS bearing replacement video I saw didn't seem to require a lot of heat to free the bearing from it's interference fit.

Either that or maybe Begode are running tighter tolerances between stator and magnets than they used to, so tight that occasionally they clash. Maybe the bearings are just really poor quality and it's the race faces/bearing surfaces themselves which are out of round/pitted. It's a bit of a guess at the moment but my money is on one of the above.

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On another thread here there was a pic of too much white silicone on the small board where the motor wires and hall sensor wires connect. This can migrate down and touch the coils while they are spinning. He cut off the excess and it fixed the knocking. I was going to do the same but Jason at eWheels had one left in inventory and swapped me out a new one. 70 miles on the replacement and no knocking so the newer batch wheel seems to be ok. 

I don't think this knock is bearing related, the bearing make a grinding noise. 

Does your knock get smoother the faster you go? Mine was almost gone at 25mph and imperceptible at 35.

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1 hour ago, Flying W said:Does your knock get smoother the faster you go? Mine was almost gone at 25mph and imperceptible at 35.

Yes, it was getting smoother with speed. On low speed, it sometimes felt stronger and overall pretty strong. It disappeared for a few minutes just to return again.

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On 12/11/2020 at 8:14 PM, StealthPhoenix said:

I think its related to the alignment of the individual magnets in the motor. I just got my RS a few days ago too and everything was smooth until i bumped it into a pole pretty hard. within 10 min of that, this same sound started. I checked beneathe both of the side panels and nothing seemed dislodged or whatever, but the sound was still there....so i took off the shell entirely, and ran the wheel on the ground using just the pedal hangers, and the sound was still there. took off the pedal hangers then, the motor cover, and looked inside the hollow bore motor and again, found nothing. note: at this point, the stator "sticks" to one side of the rotor, and you cant even turn the wheel without a lot of friction. i think in a perfect magnetic alignment, the rotor/stator assembly would be physically separated throughout their inner and outer circumference. i hope thats not confusing. long story short, i put everything back together and the sound was gone finally. took it out for a ride and the sound stayed gone. then i took it to work and encountered some bumpy terrain and the sound did return a bit intermittently, but definitely not as severe. 2 rides after that, no sound again. the excess cable thing that a few ppl have mentioned here seems like....hmm...no. it mightve worked for them, but i tried the same and pulled out a few cm of power and data cabling, but to no avail..anyway, take it apart and see if that helps (all you need is an allen key set, and some flathead screw drivers - for the motor covers, be careful not to put the screwdrivers too deep, otherwise ull mess up the insulated wires - windings, and a small philips head screwdriver. there are many tutorials showing how. check out EUC Bros on youtube), or email ewheels.com assuming thats where you got it, and see if they can help....keep us updated, hope it works out!

Thank you for the detailed reply.  I didn't want to go too deep into the brand new wheel without some input from the reseller (ewheels.com).  They just gave me a shipping label and I sent it back.  I've read many posts about bearing issues and the knocking noise, I just figure I'd avoid that stress and go with something that has been out awhile and has gone through a few revisions.  So I'm waiting on a KS 16x to be shipped back to me.  I'll try a faster wheel later on, once I get some experience on these legs.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I have an issue with my MSP HT. Strange sounds appear when riding forward-backward and on stronger acceleration deceleration.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MwJLzCN0SLk3-dwYIzcOEPM_ZHgAObN7/view?usp=sharing

Any idea what was problem (and solution)?

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