supergadgetman Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Hello All, I've recently discovered the amazing world of EUC's and bought myself a fairly new V10F. As in fairly new, it wasn't even setup in the inmotion app yet and had no mileage on the clock when I set it up. It hadn't been registered either. Took about a week to get to train myself to ride and on my second ride I was 1 mile in when I came to a stop at a stop sign and it shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I tried multiple presses with the power button. The battery was fully charged the night before so I know it wasn't dead. I also noticed the wheel wouldn't roll freely anymore with the trolley handle. It had resistance to it which made it hard to push so I had to carry it home a mile in my arms. I opened it up and saw that the 40amp ATM fuse was blown on the main board so I replaced it, put everything back together, pressed the power button and heard the fuse pop again before the power on sequence even finished. I took it back apart and put in a new fuse, but this time I didn't plug the motor back in. I powered it on and it stayed powered on while telling me to "Please Repair!" Since it sensed the motor wasn't plugged in. I also noticed that when I manually turned the wheel it spun freely again while it was unplugged from the main board. I powered it back down, plugged in the motor then powered it back on and immediately the fuse got smoked again. I also felt resistance again when I manually spin the wheel. At this point I do not know if it is a bad motor or bad control board. I do not want to replace one and find out it's the other. Any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated. Sorry about the long post TIA! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chriull Posted May 11, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted May 11, 2020 Welcome! 5 minutes ago, supergadgetman said: also felt resistance again when I manually spin the wheel. At this point I do not know if it is a bad motor or bad control board The resistance is a sign of blown mosfets. They are shortening the motor and by this the resistance is gone once the control board is disconnected from the motor. So the control board has to be changed. The motor should most presumably have survived this. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supergadgetman Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 3 minutes ago, Chriull said: Welcome! The resistance is a sign of blown mosfets. They are shortening the motor and by this the resistance is gone once the control board is disconnected from the motor. So the control board has to be changed. The motor should most presumably have survived this. Thanks for the quick reply! I need to get back on this wheel asap. I have all types of electric bikes, scooters, minipros, but no feeling like riding this V10F. I'm wondering if there is a way to check warranty status with the serial? I do not see the option on the inmotion site. I figure it's worth a try since the wheel is so new. I also read something about a bad batch of V10s that shipped with bad motors, that's why I wasn't sure of it was the motor or the board. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 7 minutes ago, supergadgetman said: I'm wondering if there is a way to check warranty status with the serial? I do not see the option on the inmotion site. Warranty should be with the reseller and the receipt would help (as i am used to this within my country)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 10 minutes ago, supergadgetman said: that's why I wasn't sure of it was the motor The motor could maybe have a fault, too. But normally they are one of the strongest part dying last. 10 minutes ago, supergadgetman said: or the board. You did some visual check? Mosfets can be hidden a bit between the board and the heatsink - in most cases a dead mosfet has clear visual signs. You also checked for molten insulation of wires and short circuits? Ps.: Sorry for this many questions - remote diagnosis can be fault prone, although you described very obvious symptoms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hal Farrenkopf Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 There is a short between 2 of the 3 wires of the motor which is causing it to be hard to manually turn when it is plugged into the main board. As mentioned above, blown Mosfet or short between the 3 wires on the board are the fault. There are 6 Mosfets, 2 per wire going to the motor. Might be easiest to just replace the board if you are not electronically knowledgeable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, Hal Farrenkopf said: a short between 2 of the 3 wires of the motor Good point. And that type of motor fault should be diagnosable with a cheap multimeter at home (compare resistance of each phase), if it's so significant that it's blowing fuses. Edited May 12, 2020 by RagingGrandpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hal Farrenkopf Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said: Good point. And that type of motor fault should be diagnosable with a cheap multimeter at home (compare resistance of each phase), if it's so significant that it's blowing fuses. Not in the motor. In the 3 wires of the motor connector of the board. Motor rotates freely when disconnected from the board. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hal Farrenkopf Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Here is what the mosfets and traces look like for the V10f. I used mica and heatsink paste to secure the mosfets instead of the pad and paste they used. Original heat sinking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 The Use of an Bulb can help seeing faulty currents, mosfet burned may be the problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 On 5/14/2020 at 1:13 AM, Hal Farrenkopf said: Here is what the mosfets and traces look like for the V10f. I used mica and heatsink paste to secure the mosfets instead of the pad and paste they used. Original heat sinking. "I'm not seeing pictures" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hal Farrenkopf Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 4 hours ago, Cody said: "I'm not seeing pictures" I posted to Facebook and went looking for the post and they are still there. And I think they are here now too. just in case it is Facebook doing this after 1 month, here is my Facebook link to the photos. https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=851418262038558&id=100015111764656&set=a.809913862855665 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreeRide Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Have not seen the OP return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj warren Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 Hey guys I have a similar issue but noticed it was two of the wires coming from motor that shorted each other out (somehow they were exposed a little and must have touched.) My fuse is blow and I'm curious how I can replace the battery fuse. It appears to be built into the control board 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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