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Hal Farrenkopf

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About Hal Farrenkopf

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  • Location
    Sarnia Ontario Canada
  • EUC
    V10F

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  1. I alternate lifting my heal on one side and toe on the other when I start to get cramps/ numbness. This way you can maintain your speed and ride.
  2. Make sure the 40 amp fuse isn’t blown.
  3. The white piece is Teflon that is used as a friction disk so that the pedal will stay up. Take the removed rod and put it in the side that doesn’t have the Teflon piece in it and give it a whack with a piece of wood hitting it straight on. It should come out.
  4. Insulation slows the transfer of heat. If you have enough insulation and no air transfer, you can slow the rise of temperature of the wheel. I’ve left a cooler in the back seat of a car with ice and bottled water in it with blankets completely covering it up and there was still ice in there at the end of the day. If you need to leave your wheel in your hot car often, build yourself an insulated container to put your wheel in that is also near air tight. That 2” thick rigid blue foam insulation has an R10 rating. (5 per inch). So if you double it to 4”, you get R20. And to even slow the rise in temperature more, fill the inside space with room temperature strong water bottles that don’t leak so that the mass inside is larger so that it can absorb more heat without increasing its temperature as much. You can also do something like this video if you can find suitable sized coolers and containers.
  5. I posted to Facebook and went looking for the post and they are still there. And I think they are here now too. just in case it is Facebook doing this after 1 month, here is my Facebook link to the photos. https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=851418262038558&id=100015111764656&set=a.809913862855665
  6. I did this to my battery over the existing heat shrunk plastic wrap battery covering. That existing cover seemed to completely seal the battery and I had no sign of any water in my V10f- I never rode in rain or through water. Water condensation occurs when humid air is cooled. Completely sealing the battery doesn’t allow movement of air into the battery for that to happen. I did consider drilling holes in the bottom of the compartment holding the electronics since there were possible water entry locations but likely only when it gets submerged and not likely when vertical riding in rain.
  7. Cover it with an insulating material so it doesn't absorb heat. Bubble wrap and blankets? Anything to keep it at its put in the car temperature. Avoid sun hitting it too.
  8. As long as it is clear laquer and not silvery coloured solder between the legs of the mosfet, it is fine to leave it alone. It’s a protection from moisture.
  9. Sarnia Ontario with an Inmotion V10F
  10. I know this is late for most people who had the V10 / V10f waterproofing the battery but I finally got around to do it. (I never rode in rain or through water so I had no water on the battery or battery compartment) I didn’t like the supplied 2 piece plastic shells to retrofit the weatherproofing so I used the method used for weatherproofing outside RF cable connectors. Vulcanizing rubber tape with electrical tape. I wrapped the battery first with electrical tape which wasn’t really needed since the batteries had a plastic wrap already - first wrap on RF connectors makes it easier to remove later than trying to remove the rubber from its surface. If there wasn’t a plastic wrap the I would first wrap it with electrical tape. Wrap the entire battery with the Vulcanizing rubber tape as demonstrated in the photo. The rubber is activated by stretching it before it is placed on the surface and last wrap of the rubber - stretch it as you wrap it. It will stick together and bond forming a waterproofed shell. Wrap around the wires exit locations too. Any gaps there must be filled in with RTV Silicone after the final wrap of electrical tape. The electrical tape sticks extremely well to the rubber tape and makes a rugged surface that won’t split or rip and protects the rubber tape. I used only one roll of vulcanized rubber tape and one roll of electrical tape.
  11. Yes, I reused the Teflon and fasteners from the INMOTION pedal so it works exactly the same.
  12. That fuse holder on the pc board looks like it was heating up and arcing because it was likely not a tight connection. Loose fittings generate heat, arcing and melts/disintegrates the metal.
  13. After waterproofing the battery and replacing the mosfet heat sinking to mica insulators with paste, I wanted to increase the existing heatsink external heat transfer. I had this idea long ago but recently found a material that was readily available - vinyl step edging. All that was required was cutting it to shape, drilling a hole that was snug to the screw head and some black rtv silicone. As the wheel turns, it would fan air over the heatsink. There is very little clearance between the motor cover and heatsink except for the top part of the heatsink where the wheel screw heads are. I added fins to all the heads except the one by the valve. I haven’t done any analysis of performance but I know that it will increase air flow over part of the heatsink and likely all of it is improved. It’s vinyl and flexible just in case something gets caught in the wheel. The orientation is important in that aspect so that anything that gets caught will bend the vinyl flat or pulls it off. It’s only rtv’d at the screw head. As always, do at your own risk because there is an increased risk of things getting stuck in the wheel causing the wheel to stop turning suddenly.
  14. Here is my V10f with gotway pedals.
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