Daniel Clopton

Okay, so I followed common recommendations for calibrating PWM and settings alarms on my EX30 and CP using DarknessBot on my Android phone. I followed this procedure: - Charge wheel to 100%. - Perform lift cutout test while watching PWM readout in the app. - Use the PWM correction feature to adjust up or down. - Perform another lift test to confirm cutout at 100% PWM per readout on app. - Adjust sound setting for PWM at 70%, 80%, and 90% to alert through my BT headset. So, this is where my question comes in. After riding the wheel a while and hearing no alarms (fine), I stopped to do another free spin test. By this time my battery was somewhere down around 40%. Now the PWM readout showed 61% max when the wheel cutout. I suppose that makes sense since there was less available power to drive the motor. Doesn't that mean though that my wheel would have cutout before ever reaching my first alarm at 70% PWM? If true, that would defeat the purpose of the calibration and alarms. What am I missing?

It's actually really good to see the low speed characteristics of this wheel in an urban environment. As someone who lives in a big city, I spend a good portion of my time riding slow and weaving through pedestrians. It looks like this wheel would handle that kind of riding well. Especially compared to the Master Pro, which is the only other real long range suspension wheel candidate right now. I can't really count the V13 in that category for me since I've decided that 3.5kWh and higher is what I want for my next wheel.

Because they know their customer base.

I was just thinking about the topic of free spin speed. I believe there is an inherent flaw with that data point in comparing wheels. It is entirely dependent on wheel diameter and proper speed calibration. If you get a slightly lower free spin speed on an 18" wheel it may actually be better than a higher free spin speed on a 22" wheel since the 18" wheel actually has to rotate faster. We should be thinking in terms of free spin RPM.

Anyone can design a high speed EUC in the US, and make a one off in their garage. Passing regulations for mass production is a different story.

Okay, all these EUCs are made in China. You obviously aren't comparing them to Chinese made motorcycles. If you were then you'd be calling all Chinese vehicles toys. If you want better quality then we need some US or German made wheels. Unfortunately, they are banned in Germany, and would likely be limited to under 15mph if made in the US. Now, how about we get back to the Sherman S. Any fresh news?

Depending on your personal situation you may be right. If you live on a farm then an EUC is just a novelty. I live in a city though. A motorcycle or scooter is subject to the same rules of the road as a car. On a motorcycle it used to take me upwards of 45 minutes to move five city blocks during rush hour. You could try lane splitting, or riding in the bike lane, but cops would ticket you for that. On an EUC I can go from one end of the city to the other in under 15 minutes no matter the traffic conditions. If an EUC is just a toy, then so is my house and car since all three serve vital functions in my day to day life.

I agree about having a headlight with a hard cutoff. I don't like blinding oncoming cyclists. Bike paths in my area get really dark at night, and oncoming headlights can cause people to not see hazards. I think most EUC lights (both front and rear) are only really good for being seen by others. The lights are too low to the ground to illuminate uneven terrain well without casting shadows, they are useless on a steep descents, the beam distance is too short on a steep accents, they blind oncoming traffic, and the light doesn't project into turns. There is a solution for all these problems. Get a helmet light. I bought a Lumintop B01 for my helmet. It has a hard cutoff due to the downward facing LED and reflector. It only outputs 900 lumenax (turbo), but the beam is so well shaped that it's actually plenty of light. Couple the lower power consumption with a 21700 battery, and this light will run for hours on high. The best part is that I can have the beam where I'm looking at all times, and it only cost me about $50 total for the light and a descent GoPro mount. https://lumintop.com/product/b01/

Ive got a Fenix 5X Plus. I've got the current version of Wheellog from Google Play store. I've got the Wheellog app installed on my watch from the Connect IQ store. I've checked the Garmin watch option in the phone app. I've opened everything in the correct order. Why am I still seeing nothing but zeros on the watch app?

From my own testing I don't think it's a "soft" pedal issue. Before updating the firmware the motor was over controlled at low speed. I think that was the source of my wheel shaking violently when slowing to a complete stop. The PCB may have been just snug, and only just loose enough to exaggerate the issue. Now that I've updated the firmware the behavior when stopped just seems to be that the motor has play between two positions of the coil and stator. That is probably what fixed the violent shaking. The wheel is firm once at speed and doesn't feel like soft pedals at all.

You need to download & install this Engineers App (link below) When it prompts you to login, please use username=eWheelsLLC password=[removed] Change the orientation of the screen to landscape mode Press the 'Bluetooth off' button at the top to connect to the Wheel Select the option to upgrade firmware From the list choose the 18LH firmware, be careful to select the right one, the moment you press the firmware, it will immediately start transferring that firmare to the Wheel. Have a great day, Jason https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ug0Uc5dHlQx6ofnj5R8SR5ZFmmtpMXiG/view i think it might appear That worked great! Thanks for the link and info!

I sent my wheel in to be repaired and they updated the firmware to the new 18LH version. It works much better now. Today though I did another motor change on a second 18XL and I can't find any information on how to update to the new firmware. I have both the standard Kingsong app as well as the Kingsong Debug app. Neither one gives me a new firmware option. Where do I find this mysterious new firmware?

Mine was so bad I ended up sending it to Jason for testing. I haven't tried the new firmware, but I'm sure Jason will try everything.

I tightened everything. Nothing was loose in the wheel. Plus, this problem only appeared when above 65% charge. I'm thinking it's that side loaded firmware Jason mentioned that may be the issue.

I did the new motor swap last week on my first batch 18XL. It's just as loud as the previous motor with the distinctive Kingsong whine still present. The main difference with the new motor is that now when I slow down to a stop the whole wheel shakes uncontrollably. No my PCB was not loose, and I did recalibrate horizontal after the replacement. My own observations between my 18XL V1 and my friends V2 is that his is much quieter, and his firmware is different as well. In the KS app it shows as V1.1 or such. Mine is V1.13. I'm wondering if the old PCB is incompatibile with the 2200W motor. I sent my wheel back to Jason at eWheels for testing. Hopefully I'll find out what the issue is since I have one more 18XL V1 waiting on a new motor. 20191122_100349_1_640x360_20191125001420.mp4