MrMonoWheel

I have had the same issue as this since my wheel was new. I bought a shinko 244 to throw on as someone in my group runs one on his Sherman S, but due to the crooked wheel it doesn't fit. I have no idea wtf to do.

So today I tried to install the shinko 244 and had some issues. On my Sherman S it seems the rim is designed in such a way that tires can stretch over the inner shoulder and get a proper seal, but the inner shoulder of the S22 rim is a bit smaller so almost nothing is seating. I decided to cleanly wrap 3 turns of gorilla tape on the shoulders of the rim and now the tires seal perfectly with a nice "POP". Gonna throw some tire slime in it just in case there's any tiny leaks (couldn't find any with the soapy water). Weird that it's designed this way, but at least it's fixable.

Yeah regarding the tube tire on a tubeless rim, my main concern is the construction of the tire, not so much it's ability to lock into the rim. As mentioned, tubeless tires have a different internal construction to handle holding air and also seem to be a bit more durable. Apparently a dude in my local group has a shinko 244 on his Sherman S and runs it tubeless, and he says it even tells you on the sidewall that it's a tubeless tire. IDK why it would say this when the website says it's tube type, but I'll give it a shot today when they arrive!

Well after riding the Michelin pilot street 2 I can say it's not for me. It makes the wheel feel like it's always pulling vertical, putting some weird strain on my hip joints while trying to turn. I got a CST 186 to throw on and run tubeless (same setup as my Sherman S) but on the S22 it doesn't work tubeless. The inner rim lip diameter is a bit short so the tire doesn't have to stretch (and seal) over it. I have a set of shinko 244s coming but realized they aren't tubeless rated either so they probably won't work. For now I reverted it back to tubed with the CST and it's fine. Disappointed though. Any good 50/50 knobbies that I can run tubeless on the S22?

I'm on whichever the latest is as of 4 days ago. I just sprayed starter fluid in the tire and ignited the vapor with a blowtorch. Immediately seated. On the S22 I converted there was no issue and it seated with a normal air compressor. At the same pressure the tire just has a better feel to it. It's hard to explain, but I experienced the same feeling on my tubeless mountain bikes. It has a more connected feel to whatever surface I'm on. Furthermore, let's say I air it down to 24psi for a trail. Tubed 24psi felt kinda mushy but tubeless 24psi feels much more connected and grippy. I guess the best way I can put it is you have a more connected feeling and better feedback in general. Plus there's literally no reason not to go tubeless on an EUC so I just convert all of mine.

So if I go off a jump or curb where the wheel is allowed to fully extend it won't do it? I do that kinda thing fairly often.

It's been a long time since I've posted, here's an update. As of today, my Sherman S has reset itself to factory 6 times. It happens at random mileages and charge levels. I contacted the seller on AliExpress and they told me leaperkim says it will be fixed in a firmware update (which they have been saying since the OG Sherman). Meh. Now for the wheel itself. It's been running strong without any other issues since I cleaned up the motor and put in SKF bearings. I converted it to tubeless which was extremely easy and I'm currently running the stock tire as tubeless despite it being designed for tubes only. I have a Michelin pilot street 2 and a shinko 244, so I'll throw one of those on soon. The ride with tubeless is way nicer, I honestly didn't expect it to be so different. Riding off-road is night and day due to the extra tire flexibility and lower pressure potential. GT King sent me a care package with the updated trolley handle, pedals, buzzer, etc. I installed the new trolley handle and it's so much more comfortable than the original. More rigid too. Aside from all this, it still has the same clunking from inside the shock(s). Haven't bothered to open up the shocks to take a look as it hasn't gotten worse. In the meantime I've also purchased an S22 for the GF and installed the CNC rollers today. Excellent little wheel.

Original tire was a 2.75-14 Chinese knobby, new tire is an 80/90-14. Since it doesn't have knobs it's not taller however it does have a nicer round profile, seems a little wider. I'm planning on throwing the same tire on my Sherman S (also converted to tubeless).

😂 I had already started writing this before I saw that so I just left it in. It is strange that it makes this sound though. Can it not be fixed?

I recently picked up an S22 for the GF to ride since the V11 wasn't enough wheel for her after a month. Suspension didn't budge when I got it and ewheels sent me a free CNC roller set. Installed it today and I'm blown away by how good it feels. Only problem now is there's some clacking noise at full extension. I also converted it over to tubeless and threw on a Michelin pilot street 2 in 80/90-14. Haven't gotten to ride it yet but I'm looking forward to it. I gotta say it's probably the nicest looking wheel I've had thusfar.

This just reminded me, yesterday I was riding home from beach (about 25 miles) maintaining 35-45mph the entire time. Had headphones in so I didn't hear beeps, but when I got home I realized the wheel was beeping whenever I'd go up past 40. I'd say I'm a lucky bastard.

Not sure if you know the background, but I ended up shitting out my wheel bearing from a 300ft cruise down the beach in dry sand and then washing the wheel with a hose. I swapped in an SKF bearing and found the inside of the motor housing to be completed corroded (not from my activities). To test this I pressure washed the wheel and motor before taking it apart to see where water was coming in from, and it was bone dry. This indicated that the corrosion was from something during production. Anyway, the RTV seal on the motor halves was not great, so I replaced that with some good RTV. I then ditched the watery silicone paste they used under the bearing dust covers and used Lucas marine grade wheel bearing grease. I've been using this for years and it's never let me down. Then as I put the wheel back together I used RTV on all the possible ingress points; motor wire where it leaves the motor, the area where the motor wire enters the motherbosrd housing, and the motherboard housing cover itself. I've also checked all the bolts and nothing is loosening up despite my rather aggressive riding, so that shows the loctite was a good call. Recently I've been messing with the suspension settings to see if I can get a bit more support for going down stairs and stuff. The preload doesn't really seem to do much, but the damping adjusters make a big difference. The stock settings were 6 clicks out on the left, 9 on the right. And for preload I measured it by the flat faces of the hex, so 1 face would mean I turned it enough to get the next flat face facing forward. For both the left and right they were at 50 faces out from full tight.

You know the beeper itself has its own connector you can just unplug?

Back with an update. After all the fixes I did a while ago (motor corrosion cleanup, better waterproofing, etc) the wheel has been running like a top. It's put through it's paces daily and is going strong. Regular beach rides, washing with hose, offeoading, lots of stairs, it takes it all. No issues with the SKF bearings and everything is staying tight. Fantastic wheel once all the kinks are worked out. I gotta read through this thread and see what updates have come through. That replacement tail light seems like something I'd buy when it's in stock, the original one is trash. Now if they can develop a V11/13 style headlight I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Im dead tired so I haven't reviewed all the replies in this thread yet, but from the video it seems the wheel simply was over torqued, even if just for a split second. That current spike is more than enough to overwhelm the electronics. I don't see an issue.