InMotion V14 riders : Share Your Tips, Tricks, Modifications, Upgrades, Hacks, Setups & Feature Requests

[Punxatawneyjoe]

6 hours ago, Funky said:

V13 had it's motherboard exposed to elements/water.. Great wheel?

No it didn't. The raptor controller sits inside the top of the wheel, furthermore all of its electronics are encased in a waterproof coating as with all of the electronics inside the v13 so it wouldn't matter if it were mounted on the outside of the wheel. Great wheel, absolutely. I have a batch 2 wheel and after sorting out a few minor bugs, three thousand miles later it runs superbly at 55mph down the road and i have had to do 0 maintenance.

7 hours ago, Funky said:

Great wheel? V12 had "speed up" bugs.. Where it would toss off it's rider - great?

This only happened on a few units, not a wide spread problem and whiny ass wrong way made a big deal out of it because he's a little girly man and was but hurt after his spat with Inmotion. The other 50k wheels sold were fine.

7 hours ago, Funky said:

V11 is a nightmare to work with - great..

I'm not even sure what you mean by this but if you meant work on then that's not entirely true, although challenging you can remove the tire from it in about 15 minutes if you know what you are doing and i have over 4k miles on mine with no problems and forward n bak has over 10k miles on his....and guess what, it's a waterproof wheel so yeah, great.

[Funky]

2 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

No it didn't. The raptor controller sits inside the top of the wheel, furthermore all of its electronics are encased in a waterproof coating as with all of the electronics inside the v13 so it wouldn't matter if it were mounted on the outside of the wheel. Great wheel, absolutely. I have a batch 2 wheel and after sorting out a few minor bugs, three thousand miles later it runs superbly at 55mph down the road and i have had to do 0 maintenance.

This only happened on a few units, not a wide spread problem and whiny ass wrong way made a big deal out of it because he's a little girly man and was but hurt after his spat with Inmotion. The other 50k wheels sold were fine.

I'm not even sure what you mean by this but if you meant work on then that's not entirely true, although challenging you can remove the tire from it in about 15 minutes if you know what you are doing and i have over 4k miles on mine with no problems and forward n bak has over 10k miles on his....and guess what, it's a waterproof wheel so yeah, great.

There's YouTube videos showing that water/dirt gets onto V13 motherboard. Do you think i would make up some bullshit? (Maybe it was prototype?) Yes it is coated with waterproof spray.. But still. Wheel well has some kind hole or something. That lets some spray past it right around motherboard.

Meh i don't care about rest. As i'm not interest in wheels that are over 55lbs. Good/Bad - they are Bad to me. Many have said V11 is shit and i think it's also just that. V12 is 65lbs and 16" wheel. To heavy for what it is. So again bad in MY yes. Everything i'm saying is coming from MY viewpoint. You and other can disagree with it! 

That's the thing - everyone can like or dislike what they want.. Everyone has their own head on shoulders and can think for themselves.  

[Punxatawneyjoe]

10 minutes ago, Funky said:

There's YouTube videos showing that water/dirt gets onto V13 motherboard

Try doing this to any other wheel...

Yes, still working great.

[Funky]

10 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Try doing this to any other wheel...

Yes, still working great.

Again - from wheel well, not from top.

And? I ride in very heavy rain storms almost every 3rd day in fall.. (Rain storm where your undies get moist in 2-3 minutes standing in rain.)

- working great. (And my wheel has zero waterproofing. Only motor is silicon shut. Doh i'm using "water cap" over wheel it self..) 

 Don't get me wrong - if it's working as indented - then that's just great.

Edited May 24 by Funky

[Christian90s]

I can say the V14 is suoer waterproof. Ive soaked it and no issues. I probably wouldnt buy without it being waterproof as I was it after every ride.

[Frolic0415]

On 5/24/2024 at 7:51 PM, Punxatawneyjoe said:

This only happened on a few units, not a wide spread problem

https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/30388-v12-ht-issue-sudden-tilt-back-and-acceleration/ + heaps more reports on Facebook and Reddit, definitely a widespread problem with the V12 HT that still isn't fixed.

[Funky]

I give that Inmotions makes amazing wheels from hardware viewpoint.. They look like artworks. But software wise they lacking. (At least i think the speed up happens because of software, who knows. Same for V14 cut-out's that happened at start. They fixed that right?)

Would have been what i wanted to say, before i looked into V14 disassembly video..  At least they are better than KingSong, that's for sure!

But again - that's only my viewpoint.

Edited May 25 by Funky

[MegaObi]

just got mine with 50s cells - super fun wheel - acceleration is amazing

 

[miketunes]

On 5/19/2024 at 3:03 PM, Punxatawneyjoe said:

No, these ones will though...:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SN3SFD3?  If you get the same shock you have to remove the plastic bushings it comes with.

washers here...:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5GWXJHK?

Ok, I'm in the process of changing the shock but got a bit confused.  I removed/lost the plastic bushing that came on the original shock, do I need those?  I was thinking the bushing go on the sides instead.  How do you remove the plastic bushing from the fox float? 

 

What's the correct order to connect the pin, seems like it would be pretty loose with just 6 washers.  
3x metal washers <> bushing <> 3x metal washers?  

 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

8 hours ago, miketunes said:

I removed/lost the plastic bushing that came on the original shock, do I need those?

Yes the black plastic spacers are needed. The bushings that you remove are the white ones that are currently in the new shock, then 1 of the new brass bushings you bought go in place of the white bushings making the shock loop fit snug on the shaft. But you definitely need the black plastic spacers that came with the original shock to space it side to side then just a few washers to make it snug.

Edited May 31 by Punxatawneyjoe

[Punxatawneyjoe]

8 hours ago, miketunes said:

How do you remove the plastic bushing from the fox float? 

I drilled them out, make sure the drill is just large enough to drill the plastic and not the metal.

[miketunes]

7 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Yes the black plastic spacers are needed. The bushings that you remove are the white ones that are currently in the new shock, then 1 of the new brass bushings you bought go in place of the white bushings making the shock loop fit snug on the shaft. But you definitely need the black plastic spacers that came with the original shock to space it side to side then just a few washers to make it snug.

Thanks - Is this what I need - 2 sets(1 for each side)?
https://www.ewheels.com/product/inmotion-v14-slider-pipe-bushings-set/

[Punxatawneyjoe]

1 hour ago, miketunes said:

Thanks - Is this what I need - 2 sets(1 for each side)?

I don't know about those but there should have been black plastic spacers on each end of the original shock one slides inside the other and they distribute the force evenly over the bolt so it's not focused in one small area, the originals look different than what you have pictured. Where are the ones that came off with the original shock?

It just occurred to me what those are you have pictured. They are the rubber slider stops nothing to do with the shock.

Edited May 31 by Punxatawneyjoe

[miketunes]

2 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I don't know about those but there should have been black plastic spacers on each end of the original shock one slides inside the other and they distribute the force evenly over the bolt so it's not focused in one small area, the originals look different than what you have pictured. Where are the ones that came off with the original shock?

It just occurred to me what those are you have pictured. They are the rubber slider stops nothing to do with the shock.

Not sure, I don't recall seeing the ones on top.  I think the bottom one flinged across the room somewhere when I was pulling the pin out, had to use quite a bit of force.  I'll email ewheels and inmotion to see if I can get the part from them.  

[Punxatawneyjoe]

Also it looks like you had the shock in upside down. The top (adjuster side) goes up by the tail light.

[miketunes]

I'm working on changing the tire now, and a bit lost on what to do from here.  Do I just need to undo those 4 screws in the middle - or get to the top of the orange power wire somehow?  Pedals are off on both sides, but batteries on just one side.  What kind of adhesive do I need to re-attach the batteries?  I was watching this video, but it goes pretty quick at the end: 

 

Also I think I found the missing shock part, will try that again.  

[Punxatawneyjoe]

7 hours ago, miketunes said:

I'm working on changing the tire now

You only need to remove the one battery on the wire side to gain access to the wire clips to give you some slack to pull the tire out. You don't even need to remove the pedal bracket it's just the 4 hub bolts on each side then the wheel slides out. I replaced my ferring plate 2 sided tape with velcro on each side so it's easy to pull off and put back on, i would suggest the same. If not you can use 3m™ 2 sided tape to stick it to the batteries. Make sure you pull up the trolley handle when trying to put the pedal brackets back on, it will remove tension on the spring.

[miketunes]

21 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

You only need to remove the one battery on the wire side to gain access to the wire clips to give you some slack to pull the tire out. You don't even need to remove the pedal bracket it's just the 4 hub bolts on each side then the wheel slides out. I replaced my ferring plate 2 sided tape with velcro on each side so it's easy to pull off and put back on, i would suggest the same. If not you can use 3m™ 2 sided tape to stick it to the batteries. Make sure you pull up the trolley handle when trying to put the pedal brackets back on, it will remove tension on the spring.

Ok, I already removed a one battery on one side.  So remove those 4 middle bolts, flip over, remove battery on other side, then remove last 4 bolts?

You think the 3m 2 sided tape is strong enough?  Whatever was on there before was much stronger I had to pull with all my might to remove it.    

[Unventor]

1 hour ago, miketunes said:

Ok, I already removed a one battery on one side.  So remove those 4 middle bolts, flip over, remove battery on other side, then remove last 4 bolts?

You think the 3m 2 sided tape is strong enough?  Whatever was on there before was much stronger I had to pull with all my might to remove it.    

I used 3M dual lock instead. You can find demo YouTube videos on how it works. It is stronger than velcro yet easier to remove or unlock if done the right way. Note this comes in different 'mushroom" sizes depending on needs. 

This one show how it works yet not produced by 3M.

 

[miketunes]

So use 3m velcro to attach the Velcro sheet?  Wouldn't that side stick out further than the side that has adhesive since I only took off 1 battery?  Or do you mean go ahead and pull off all the batteries and use 3m as a replacement for the included velcro panel?  

[Punxatawneyjoe]

25 minutes ago, miketunes said:

So use 3m velcro to attach the Velcro sheet?  Wouldn't that side stick out further than the side that has adhesive since I only took off 1 battery?

The 3m is double sided tape, that is what the ferring panel is attached to the batteries with. You removed 2 batteries because i don't see any left on that side. I was just suggesting you remove both plates and remove the original 2 sided tape and replace it with Velcro on both sides because then you won't need to peel off all the 2 sided tape off and replace it every time you change a tire.  You can use duel lock instead of Velcro as @Unventor suggested but IMO it's overkill. Velcro doesn't move at all, not even a little bit. You could probably hang a 40lb weight off of one side using Velcro.

[miketunes]

46 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

The 3m is double sided tape, that is what the ferring panel is attached to the batteries with. You removed 2 batteries because i don't see any left on that side. I was just suggesting you remove both plates and remove the original 2 sided tape and replace it with Velcro on both sides because then you won't need to peel off all the 2 sided tape off and replace it every time you change a tire.  You can use duel lock instead of Velcro as @Unventor suggested but IMO it's overkill. Velcro doesn't move at all, not even a little bit. You could probably hang a 40lb weight off of one side using Velcro.

Ok let's pause on Velcro for moment.  Not sure next step to change the tire. I still have 3 batteries attached.   Go ahead and remove all 4 batteries? Then the 4 black screws on each side?  Do I need to detach the orange wire somehow?  

[Punxatawneyjoe]

17 minutes ago, miketunes said:

Ok let's pause on Velcro for moment.  Not sure next step to change the tire. I still have 3 batteries attached.   Go ahead and remove all 4 batteries? Then the 4 black screws on each side?  Do I need to detach the orange wire somehow?  

The rim/tire is bolted to the frame by 8 bolts, those eight bolts remove the rim/tire. In order to be able to slide out the tire you need to undo the clips on the wire so you have some slack. In order to do that you just unbolt 1 battery (you don't even have to disconnect it). You don't need to remove the pedal hanger,you don't need to remove the other battery, you don't need to remove the battery lower bracket. Just the 8 central hub bolts and 1 battery so you can unclip the motor wire for some slack. No you aren't disconnecting the orange motor wire just undoing a few clips  that hold the wire against the frame. There should be enough (slack) st that point to remove the rim/tire from the frame so you can change the tire....with the wire still attached to it.

So undo the 4 bolts in the center and flip the wheel over and undo the 4 on the other side then flip it back and slide out the rim/tire

Edited June 3 by Punxatawneyjoe

[Unventor]

59 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

The 3m is double sided tape, that is what the ferring panel is attached to the batteries with. You removed 2 batteries because i don't see any left on that side. I was just suggesting you remove both plates and remove the original 2 sided tape and replace it with Velcro on both sides because then you won't need to peel off all the 2 sided tape off and replace it every time you change a tire.  You can use duel lock instead of Velcro as @Unventor suggested but IMO it's overkill. Velcro doesn't move at all, not even a little bit. You could probably hang a 40lb weight off of one side using Velcro.

Well there are 3 reason why I prefer the 3M dual lock. This is in random order.

It is easy to clean. (I got cats and that just mess up velcro very easy with hair). 

Once you understand the locking and unlocking of the dual lock heads, it is easy to remove. When you attract things it has a noticeable clicking sound as it interlock the heads.

It does not attract mud or water or dust. And it is possible to rinse. It might not apply to all applications but I view still as a benefit.

Yes there are downside to it. Mainly costs. But also it doesn't have a 'soft side' on the other have you don't have 2 different parts so it is easier to apply as you need. With velcro I always end up with using a bit move of the soft side.

 

 

 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

2 minutes ago, Unventor said:

Well there are 3 reason why I prefer the 3M dual lock

good reasons, all of them. I wasn't saying not to use it, i was just saying in my opinion its overkill. Did you also use it to attach the pads to the fairing plate?