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IPS a130 12" with LG HG2 Battery Cells = Peak 2000W power


Jason McNeil

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Although only a 12" Wheel, the IPS a130 has some interesting characteristics:

  1. At 8.5kg, it's extremely light
  2. It's well constructed
  3. The control-board seems identical to that installed in the higher end Wheels like the Lhotz, 121, etc.
  4. Also fairly cheap

I wanted to experiment to see the effect on this feather-weight, if the standard factory supplied Chinese batteries (of good quality, but not the best) were substituted with the top-performing LG HG2, on paper capable of 20A sustained power. Would this little Wheel see a dramatic improvement over the standard version? Could the control-board cope with this up-rated output? How would it compare to the baseline? What would the output limits be? 

Using the Eagletree vlogger between the battery pack & control-board, I did an artificial test of holding the wheel down with my hands, & push away & back again as hard I could. Uploading the results, I surprised to see a reading of 2000W, with the voltage dropping to 51v.

Next up will be accelerating up a hill until finding the cut-out point, testing under low-battery condition, comparing to the standard 132Wh pack, etc....  

IPS a130.png

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Iv'e had one of these for a while.It is surprising how well it does with my 200lb 6' frame.I can get it up to about 10 mph and it does surprising well on inclines.I added another 132wh pack to double the range and add the extra power margin for safety and am quite pleased with it considering I paid $ 250 for it shipped.It is a great "travel wheel" because of it's small size.I can fit it in my saddlebag when I do a roadtrip to Vegas on my motorcycle and wheel on the strip with it etc.

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24 minutes ago, jrkline said:

added another 132wh pack to double the range and add the extra power margin for safety

Cool, how did you fit another 132Wh pack to it, externally? IPS have the BMS embedded on the control-board, & a reverse diode on the charging port, so it's a bit tricky to do. 

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1 minute ago, Jason McNeil said:

Cool, how did you fit another 132Wh pack to it, externally? IPS have the BMS embedded on the motherboard, & a reverse diode on the charging port, so it's a bit tricky to do. 

The battery pack is internal.I opened it up to add the LED voltmeter mod I found here on the forums because I hate the blinking IPS power button gage and realized that with a little modding of the interior,I could reposition the control board to give me just enough room for another 132wh  pack connected in parallel.It is a tight fit but works perfectly and gives the wheel a good 10 mile range(as long as I keep the tire up at around 50 psi).

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For unicycle lithium Ion battery pack for samsung 16s1p 60v 2.2ah                                                                                                                                                                                               The battery packs I use are these off the shelf 132wh type.I use these because of the on battery bms and slim profile.

5 hours ago, trya said:

@jrkline have you built the extra battery pack yourself or used some off-the-shelf? if you happen to have any pictures showing your customization - they will be appreciated :)

       Unfortunately,when I did the mod,I didn't take pics.The next time I split the case,I'll be sure to get pics.

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6 minutes ago, jrkline said:

For unicycle lithium Ion battery pack for samsung 16s1p 60v 2.2ah                                                                                                                                                                                               The battery packs I use are these off the shelf 132wh type.I use these because of the on battery bms and slim profile.

       Unfortunately,when I did the mod,I didn't take pics.The next time I split the case,I'll be sure to get pics.

Wow cool, so the extra battery fits inside the case? This makes me want to get a whhel like that even though i am a fan of huge batteries due to my weight. But a travel wheel like that...hmm..what if one keeps the spare battery separate, can one take the wheel on the plan and a spare battery separately on the plane also and then assemble at the destination? 

Or perhaps one doesnt have to keep it separate, as noone will realize there is a second battery inside? 

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7 hours ago, trya said:

@jrkline have you built the extra battery pack yourself or used some off-the-shelf? if you happen to have any pictures showing your customization - they will be appreciated :)

Here's some pics of how the wheel looks now.

20160329_202856-1.jpg

One of the things I had to do to get the extra battery to fit is relocate the power plug and button from the top of the unit to the side

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1 hour ago, Cloud said:

Wow cool, so the extra battery fits inside the case? This makes me want to get a whhel like that even though i am a fan of huge batteries due to my weight. But a travel wheel like that...hmm..what if one keeps the spare battery separate, can one take the wheel on the plan and a spare battery separately on the plane also and then assemble at the destination? 

Or perhaps one doesnt have to keep it separate, as noone will realize there is a second battery inside? 

The wheel is so small that to remove the batteries requires splitting open the case.Not really an option for airline travel with this wheel.Also,due to the cheap spontaneously combusting scourge of hoverboards,most airlines won't allow any euc type batteries whether in the wheel or out.If you did want to try the removable battery option for plane travel,I would get a wheel with the swappable battery option such as the Kingsong 14b or the Huaxni H1 (my first wheel) or mod an existing wheel to make the batteries easy to access such as I did here when I modded my IPS Kahuna from 260wh to 520wh.

Screenshot_2016-03-29-19-54-49.jpg

20151216_221603-1.jpg

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What mosfets are on the control board? It might be an issue if they used weaker ones on the assumption the battery could not supply high currents. The 12 inch motor may actually be better than the larger wheels, less wire means lower resistance and the higher rpm means it spends more time at a speed suited to electric motors.

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