My Tesla V3 got hit by a car and is now shaking on all small bumps?

[Yffisch]

I had a small accident an hour ago with my wheel. I was crossing a road and a car never stopped so he ran into my, luckily the car only touched me very little and I jumped off my wheel in panic so it kept running straight into the car. So then my wheel was flying a bit and plastic pieces got detached and spread out around the wheel. However, nothing really broke. I could attach all pieces again so it's basically like new, but with scratches everywhere.

So, to the real question. It still works and I can ride it as before, but with the difference that every single road bump makes the wheel shake and rattle so it's impossible to use it. It almost threw me off when I first noticed something was wrong (5kmh speed). So when I move it back and forth and it changes direction, I can clearly hear that it shakes a little bit, and when it goes on a bump it goes bananas.
Check this video with sound and you will see what's happening. I can not use it anymore because of that.
I have tried re-calibrating it but it did not help.

And just to mention, I did not do anything wrong. It was the car that did all wrong. I was lucky to have a Police riding behind me on his E-scooter so he stopped and told me he saw everything and he gave me his number and name that I can send to the insurance company if needed.

 

[Funky]

Loose motherboard.. (Maybe the "posts" where the board was screwed onto are broken.)

Broken shell around pedals "L" hangers.. (The shell that was screwed onto pedal "L" hangers now are "loose" and it can move around.. Making whole euc body shake. Even small play may make big shakes! As whole euc body is now moving around, not holding onto pedals.)

 

Those are my first two things that pop into mind. And most often is the problem.

Ohh - you could try recalibrating whole wheel.. Maybe it fixes it? (Could not hurt trying it - before opening the wheel.) It got hit onto "head", so simple recalibration may fix it.  

Edited November 23, 2023 by Funky

[Cerbera]

1 hour ago, Yffisch said:

And just to mention, I did not do anything wrong. It was the car that did all wrong. I was lucky to have a Police riding behind me on his E-scooter so he stopped and told me he saw everything and he gave me his number and name that I can send to the insurance company if needed.

...and you were lucky to have been in Sweden, where law and cops are much more sensible than over here. A similar thing happened to me a few months back, where a car suddenly pulled out of a hidden side drive right in front of me, saw me at the last minute and slammed on the anchors causing me to twat into the side of him. Unfortunately I was still on my wheel at the time, at least until the inevitable unplanned dismount that shortly followed !  Glad you got away without the impact yourself !

If the police over here in the UK had seen that I would have been in some trouble I imagine, even though, like you, I was 'none at fault' in that accident. but luck was on my side and British 'politeness at all costs' instilled in 99% of us  meant we could all go on our merry way unscathed and almost 'positive' about the encounter...

In an unrelated accident, where my wheel had a mini-crash and fell over it suddenly started making what I can only describe as 'vibration noises', and indeed, it was the motherboard which had come fractionally loose and had the tiniest amount of play in it, and one bolt that held it in place was not threaded correctly so wasn't holding it down.

I had to do a rather caveman-stylee primitive fix and tipped a load of silicone in between the boards to dampen the vibration, tightened the remaining screws that were there, and that has fixed it for me so far.

So I would concur that is perhaps the first thing to check. Then pedal hangar bolts, motor connection bolts and perhaps a general tightness check all over...

Edited November 23, 2023 by Cerbera

[Scubadragonsan]

Maybe you can get a new wheel since it was the driver of the car's fault and police is your witness. What's small claims court in Sweden, if any?

[Yffisch]

Thanks for all replies! I've already re-calibrated it which did not work. However, the Loose motherboard sounds like the most logical explanation to this. If the motherboard is loose and it only rattle when I go on a road bump, and the gyroscope is on the motherboard, then all puzzle pieces fall together and it's the most likely explanation to this. I'll open up the wheel and take a look soon!

I should take the opportunity to get a new wheel though since I think my batteries are Samsung M50L. I have not checked if it's true, but while checking tech specs for Tesla V3, it seems like it's that battery type or another one. I have to check it while opening up the wheel. In case of M50L, the large impact from the wheel might have damaged the batteries severely so that the fire risk has increased. I have not tried to charge it yet before checking the batteries. If I charge it I must make sure it goes to 100%. So getting a new wheel from insurance might be a good idea after all.
I've even stopped having my wheel in my apartment since a couple of weeks back because I'm worried about that battery type, I now store it in the bicycle storage where it's stone walls and stone roof and stone floor. So it's probably safer there for the whole building. If my apartment will burn, neighbours apartments might also start to burn. But in the common basement with stonewalls, no apartments will burn so it's safer for everyone, even though it's a common shared place. I also have my flame protective bag over it, which might not help that much, but at least a little....but that was just a side story. I'll open up the wheel and come back with my findings (just for documentation in case other people get the same issues as me).

[techyiam]

35 minutes ago, Yffisch said:

However, the Loose motherboard sounds like the most logical explanation to this. If the motherboard is loose and it only rattle when I go on a road bump, and the gyroscope is on the motherboard, then all puzzle pieces fall together and it's the most likely explanation to this. I'll open up the wheel and take a look soon!

If the controller board is loose, then the board/heatsink or the inner plastic shell got deformed or damaged. In the Begode T3, the controller board is secured down primarily by sandwiching it a slot in the inner shell, and squeezing it in a place with a piece of silicone block. That block is stuck in there pretty good. It will not come loose on its own.

The cells should be LG M50LT. There are no known fires with this cell online, except for the furious fire of one S20 in NYC ridden at the time by U-Stride.

Having said that, if a wheel has got into a serious accident, then precautionary measures need to be taken regardless of cells used.

[Yffisch]

I managed to solve it. Here's a before/after picture. The top one, the silicon parts were floating around in the wheel somewhere else. You can see on the left side that the plastic with the metal brick broke and I found the broken parts in the wheel. Since it got broken, the motherboard jumped out of those pockets you mentioned @techyiam

Luckily they were not broken and I could put it back there again. I drilled a hole in the plastic and attached that metal piece to the left as you can see. Also I put in the silicon again, but this time I glued them there with glue so that they won't get lost again. The thin silicon fit perfectly fine with some resistance to push it in. But the big one was too small, so I added some layers of tape on the silicon so it got larger and I got some resistance when I glued it as well.

I tried the wheel and now I don't have any issues anymore. The angle of the wheel is slightly different than before due to it might not me exactly the same position as before on the gyro. Or maybe because I tried to re-calibrate it yesterday when it was broken. Well, I'll just recalibrate it again. Now I think it will even be more sturdy than before with my fix, but I have to be extremely careful in the beginning to try it slowly day by day until I can trust my wheel again. I'll probably do some jumps to see what it can take before I speed up to normal speed again.

And btw, the battery pack said Samsung-48x.

 

Edited November 24, 2023 by Yffisch

[techyiam]

48 minutes ago, Yffisch said:

I'll probably do some jumps to see what it can take before I speed up to normal speed again.

I don't recommend it, but it is your wheel and your body.

(1) When the controller board mount is not damaged, the silicone piece could be really jammed in there. There was a lot of squeezing force applied by the silicone block. By the looks in the photo, it doesn't appear that rigid. The heatsink plate is actually deflected slightly in the middle in the original design. Additionally, the grip of the silicone block on the two sides is tremendous. Over time, the surface of the silicone becomes very high friction tacky, almost sticky. Hence, with high normal force and high coefficient of friction, that controller board wasn't going anywhere.

(2) The pedal hanger mounting area where the inner shell mounts onto the hangers, is quite fragile. It can crack there quite easily. I think jumping is a bad idea.

48 minutes ago, Yffisch said:

And btw, the battery pack said Samsung-48x.

Thanks for sharing. Good to know that some Begode T3's have the Samsung 48X cells.

Edited November 24, 2023 by techyiam

[Yffisch]

13 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I don't recommend it, but it is your wheel and your body.

(1) When the controller board mount is not damaged, the silicone piece could be really jammed in there. There was a lot of squeezing force applied by the silicone block. By the looks in the photo, it doesn't appear that rigid. The heatsink plate is actually deflected slightly in the middle in the original design. Additionally, the grip of the silicone block on the two sides is tremendous. Over time, the surface of the silicone becomes very high friction tacky, almost sticky. Hence, with high normal force and high coefficient of friction, that controller board wasn't going anywhere.

(2) The pedal hanger mounting area where the inner shell mounts onto the hangers, is quite fragile. It can crack there quite easily. I think jumping is a bad idea.

Thanks for sharing. Good to know that some Begode T3's have the Samsung 48X cells.

Well, maybe I said it wrong. When I said "jumping", I did not mean to perform an artistic jump that some people do. I meant a normal...hmm, what's it called in english...when you go down from the pedestrian road to the car road, there is that stone thing. That's basically what I meant, since in a normal riding day it happens from time to time that you "jump" down from them

[Cerbera]

4 hours ago, Yffisch said:

I meant a normal...hmm, what's it called in english...when you go down from the pedestrian road to the car road, there is that stone thing.

Yeah, that's a 'little hop' down a kerb, which is very different from a jump, and should cause you no problems...

For reference, bumping UP one of those is more of a jump (but still not really as EUC doesn't really leave ground) but is specifically called 'bonking' (not to be confused with the 'other' meaning of that !) in EUC circles...

Edited November 25, 2023 by Cerbera

[alcatraz]

Nice work fixing this. Community support in action!