Yffisch

Well, maybe I said it wrong. When I said "jumping", I did not mean to perform an artistic jump that some people do. I meant a normal...hmm, what's it called in english...when you go down from the pedestrian road to the car road, there is that stone thing. That's basically what I meant, since in a normal riding day it happens from time to time that you "jump" down from them

I managed to solve it. Here's a before/after picture. The top one, the silicon parts were floating around in the wheel somewhere else. You can see on the left side that the plastic with the metal brick broke and I found the broken parts in the wheel. Since it got broken, the motherboard jumped out of those pockets you mentioned @techyiam Luckily they were not broken and I could put it back there again. I drilled a hole in the plastic and attached that metal piece to the left as you can see. Also I put in the silicon again, but this time I glued them there with glue so that they won't get lost again. The thin silicon fit perfectly fine with some resistance to push it in. But the big one was too small, so I added some layers of tape on the silicon so it got larger and I got some resistance when I glued it as well. I tried the wheel and now I don't have any issues anymore. The angle of the wheel is slightly different than before due to it might not me exactly the same position as before on the gyro. Or maybe because I tried to re-calibrate it yesterday when it was broken. Well, I'll just recalibrate it again. Now I think it will even be more sturdy than before with my fix, but I have to be extremely careful in the beginning to try it slowly day by day until I can trust my wheel again. I'll probably do some jumps to see what it can take before I speed up to normal speed again. And btw, the battery pack said Samsung-48x.

Thanks for all replies! I've already re-calibrated it which did not work. However, the Loose motherboard sounds like the most logical explanation to this. If the motherboard is loose and it only rattle when I go on a road bump, and the gyroscope is on the motherboard, then all puzzle pieces fall together and it's the most likely explanation to this. I'll open up the wheel and take a look soon! I should take the opportunity to get a new wheel though since I think my batteries are Samsung M50L. I have not checked if it's true, but while checking tech specs for Tesla V3, it seems like it's that battery type or another one. I have to check it while opening up the wheel. In case of M50L, the large impact from the wheel might have damaged the batteries severely so that the fire risk has increased. I have not tried to charge it yet before checking the batteries. If I charge it I must make sure it goes to 100%. So getting a new wheel from insurance might be a good idea after all. I've even stopped having my wheel in my apartment since a couple of weeks back because I'm worried about that battery type, I now store it in the bicycle storage where it's stone walls and stone roof and stone floor. So it's probably safer there for the whole building. If my apartment will burn, neighbours apartments might also start to burn. But in the common basement with stonewalls, no apartments will burn so it's safer for everyone, even though it's a common shared place. I also have my flame protective bag over it, which might not help that much, but at least a little....but that was just a side story. I'll open up the wheel and come back with my findings (just for documentation in case other people get the same issues as me).

I had a small accident an hour ago with my wheel. I was crossing a road and a car never stopped so he ran into my, luckily the car only touched me very little and I jumped off my wheel in panic so it kept running straight into the car. So then my wheel was flying a bit and plastic pieces got detached and spread out around the wheel. However, nothing really broke. I could attach all pieces again so it's basically like new, but with scratches everywhere. So, to the real question. It still works and I can ride it as before, but with the difference that every single road bump makes the wheel shake and rattle so it's impossible to use it. It almost threw me off when I first noticed something was wrong (5kmh speed). So when I move it back and forth and it changes direction, I can clearly hear that it shakes a little bit, and when it goes on a bump it goes bananas. Check this video with sound and you will see what's happening. I can not use it anymore because of that. I have tried re-calibrating it but it did not help. And just to mention, I did not do anything wrong. It was the car that did all wrong. I was lucky to have a Police riding behind me on his E-scooter so he stopped and told me he saw everything and he gave me his number and name that I can send to the insurance company if needed.

Yes, now it makes more sense to me. He removed the speaker part to be able to fit the whole pack. I understood it from him like he will keep original and add a 3:rd pack where the speaker is located. But apparently not Yeah, might be since it's so stuffed in there. I think he wrote he would put Samsung 50E, but then I remember he called me and told about some other batteries on the phone that I don't remember. Those stickers was the only thing I could see. I'm still awaiting response from seller so I might ask when he responds.

Does those pictures make any sense to anyone?

I just checked charger with multimeter and got 84.6v. So that means there is nothing wrong with charger.

Well, I remember that guy saying that the cells he was looking for was out of stock, but he said "I can put these instead, they are even better". So could have something to do with that. Although, he has a very good reputation and probably knew what he did. Btw, another question. If I'll plug out the packs to see which one makes the charger turn red (which means I've found the broken one), should I really do this at the same time while the wheel is charging? Or shall I plug/unplug the cables to the blue packs while charging is off, and then start charging it to see what color it will be? It feels a bit risky to keep it charging while plugging in and out those cables?

99.5% of the times, when I charge the wheel I have always charged it to 100% (or at least when charger displays a green light). This specific issue kind of started after not using the wheel over the winter. I left it without use for around 2-3 months, but I charged it once a month anyways. Very soon after that when I started using it again, this happened. I don't know if it's related or not.

When I said 79v, it was the number from my WheelLog app. Not from charger. I will buy a multimeter today and measure output of my charger! I have no tools so I will buy today and see where the problem is. I will not ride the wheel until problems are resolved. Should I leave the wheel charged at 83% as I have it now? Or shall I use it a bit so it's not "fully charged without being used". Since I was reading that if you're leaving your wheel for a long time, keep it around 40%. Ok, I have contacted him now and waiting for response. I checked my app and it has actually done 6300km, but still - it's not 500 cycles. I have this flame proof bag over my wheel now. At least it might save my house from burning down, even though it may be contaminated by the smoke and chemicals etc... https://iwheel.se/products/safe

Well, I think it was supposed to be 1020wh initially, or maybe it was 1200wh. Then seller asked me if I wanted to make it a T3/V3 with 1500wh by removing the speaker and add more batteries. I'll see if I can take of the panels today and check. It's the original charger that has always worked the same so I'm not sure. Maybe I should send the wheel back to the seller for checking it out. Although, it's time for a new one pretty soon anyways since I basically use the same wheel 2-3 years before I switch to a new one. I actually noticed I went up to 7 lights, but some minutes later it was down to 6 again. Like it tried to come up to 7, but battery resisted and spit it out again. Maybe this is something to try? https://support.euco.us/article/256-my-euc-doesnt-charge-to-full EDIT: I just got my WheelLog working and checked. It seems to stay at 83% when battery is full and light is green. I tried to put it on while it's green for another 30 minutes, but it got stuck at 83% and 79.70v

Usually my Tesla V2 (1500wh - some extra battery was added when I bought it to replace the speaker) has had 8 lights shining on the wheel when it's fully charged. I've had the wheel now for 2 years and probably 6300km so battery capacity should of course be reduced. However, now when I charge it to fully charged, it only displays 6 lights maximum. It's almost like 25% of the batteries just got disconnected and everything works as normal with the rest 75% cells. What I'm thinking is that some batteries have "melted", but it's just a guess. Or if those "extra batteries" that were added by the salesman instead of the speaker, somehow got disconnected? I have not opened it up. It's working perfectly fine as it is though, it just feels a bit weaker and less battery capacity. But maybe it's just natural after 2 years to never get back to 8 lights, and it will be even more less every year that pass?

Maybe old info, but your description above with the devils....I just experienced it. When I came to the step to cut off the seal on the sealed cables and remove the battery plastic, I felt I had to give up. Screws and plug out cables is enough for me. Not fiddeling around with glue and pastry and other stuff. Nightmare is approved.

Yes, same happened to me now and today I was trying to make it ready for my tube replacement that I ordered. But I gave up. I may have the V1 without speakers and I felt it was impossible to get that wheel out of the box. I was going to buy a new wheel anyways this spring so I will well this to someone for a cheap price because of the flat tire. Next wheel has to be easier to replace the tubes

Haha, yupp! I have been busy with vacation and moving to the new apartment (so now we are kind of neighbours) That was the strangest thing I've seen today