sudden Cut off on KingSong 16s at 35km/h

[Salihdkn]

I was delivering food with my ks16s I have DIY power pads that makes it easier to accelerate and brake but this time I pushed it too hard but there were no beeping neither tilt back before the cutoff. I know I am a person who's been abusing the limits of ks16s doing stairs or jumping with it doing 40+km/h on it but I do try to respect the beeps and this time there were none so I didn't realize it thankfully I had 2 jackets, wrist guards, knee guards, elbow guards and helmet, I have some cuts went to the doctor to get it checked luckily no internal bleeding.

don't be like me respect the limits of the wheel or you'll fall straight on your face and have protection please

[Funky]

Maybe sound was turned off?  

At least if you use EUC-World, if you got sound turned off on phone, or way down. The alarms, etc.. Doesn't come up. 

 

Maybe you speed up right at the moment it would have given alarm. But same time you overpowered, went past it's "limits". Who knows.. Go try riding more 35km/h+ on wheel that is mean to be ridden "safely" till 35km/h. (Not past..) Especially if you got less than full charge of battery.

 

I learned the hard way - when wheel started the "scream" at me. The original built in alarms.

I was like WTF, where are my "quiet" beeps - which i hear at 38km/h.. As i was already going 44km/h.

Edited November 15, 2022 by Funky

[Salihdkn]

On 11/15/2022 at 11:14 PM, Funky said:

Maybe sound was turned off?  

At least if you use EUC-World, if you got sound turned off on phone, or way down. The alarms, etc.. Doesn't come up. 

 

Maybe you speed up right at the moment it would have given alarm. But same time you overpowered, went past it's "limits". Who knows.. Go try riding more 35km/h+ on wheel that is mean to be ridden "safely" till 35km/h. (Not past..) Especially if you got less than full charge of battery.

 

I learned the hard way - when wheel started the "scream" at me. The original built in alarms.

I was like WTF, where are my "quiet" beeps - which i hear at 38km/h.. As i was already going 44km/h.

its exactly what you said I overpowered it same time reaching the limit I always do with full battery and go faster than the limit easily but 55% didn't live 

I don't use etc world no

[Funky]

16 hours ago, Salihdkn said:

its exactly what you said I overpowered it same time reaching the limit I always do with full battery and go faster than the limit easily but 55% didn't live 

I don't use etc world no

EUCworld lets you monitor everything wheel does while riding.. Max Amps, Max speed, How many WATTs used and so on..

Also "better" speed alarms. Like quiet beeps as first alarm. And second alarm is very loud beeps combined with original Kingsong voice alarm. (First alarm is great to know you are riding too "fast". Second alarm is great for SLOW the DUCK Down! Moments.)  As in very windy time you could miss first alarm. But never second one..

In your case i would use said EUCworld.. As it has that "safety margin" alarm. - Which you need!!!! Because you are riding past "safe" speeds. The safety margin starts from 100% and goes down to 0% at 0% wheels powers off. - Your mentioned overpower/cutout... 

I have gotten mine lowest at 17% ever... And have set alarm for it at 20%. It would be perfect for you. As you are lighter and like to ride the wheels limits. You could set the alarm at 10% and wheel would start to beep very noticeably. When it reaches said 10% setting. < Highly recommend!

You can keep riding past 35km/h speed, but when it's get's way to close to 0% -  it will alarm you. (Works little bit differently. As original alarms may "alarm" - to late..)   As you saw it yourself..

Edited November 17, 2022 by Funky

[wehey]

4 hours ago, Funky said:

EUCworld lets you monitor everything wheel does while riding.. Max Amps, Max speed, How many WATTs used and so on..

Also "better" speed alarms. Like quiet beeps as first alarm. And second alarm is very loud beeps combined with original Kingsong voice alarm. (First alarm is great to know you are riding too "fast". Second alarm is great for SLOW the DUCK Down! Moments.)  As in very windy time you could miss first alarm. But never second one..

In your case i would use said EUCworld.. As it has that "safety margin" alarm. - Which you need!!!! Because you are riding past "safe" speeds. The safety margin starts from 100% and goes down to 0% at 0% wheels powers off. - Your mentioned overpower/cutout... 

I have gotten mine lowest at 17% ever... And have set alarm for it at 20%. It would be perfect for you. As you are lighter and like to ride the wheels limits. You could set the alarm at 10% and wheel would start to beep very noticeably. When it reaches said 10% setting. < Highly recommend!

You can keep riding past 35km/h speed, but when it's get's way to close to 0% -  it will alarm you. (Works little bit differently. As original alarms may "alarm" - to late..)   As you saw it yourself..

Does the “Safety Margin” alarm sound through the wheel’s speakers or the app?

Edited November 17, 2022 by wehey

[Funky]

37 minutes ago, wehey said:

Does the “Safety Margin” alarm sound through the wheel’s speakers or the app?

Phone connected to wheel so all alarms goes true wheel?

If you want you can make it so phone alarms you.. (I play it true wheel.)

[wehey]

16 minutes ago, Funky said:

Phone connected to wheel so all alarms goes true wheel?

If you want you can make it so phone alarms you.. (I play it true wheel.)

I don’t ride with the app running but I have set the Safety Margin alarms. 
I guess It won’t work this way eh?

[Funky]

Just now, wehey said:

I don’t ride with the app running but I have set the Safety Margin alarms. 
I guess It won’t work this way eh?

Any alarm set true EUCworld - you need the app running/connected to wheel.

At "fun" rides i simply open it and forget.. As then i'm riding the hardest.

[Salihdkn]

On 11/17/2022 at 4:25 PM, Funky said:

EUCworld lets you monitor everything wheel does while riding.. Max Amps, Max speed, How many WATTs used and so on..

Also "better" speed alarms. Like quiet beeps as first alarm. And second alarm is very loud beeps combined with original Kingsong voice alarm. (First alarm is great to know you are riding too "fast". Second alarm is great for SLOW the DUCK Down! Moments.)  As in very windy time you could miss first alarm. But never second one..

In your case i would use said EUCworld.. As it has that "safety margin" alarm. - Which you need!!!! Because you are riding past "safe" speeds. The safety margin starts from 100% and goes down to 0% at 0% wheels powers off. - Your mentioned overpower/cutout... 

I have gotten mine lowest at 17% ever... And have set alarm for it at 20%. It would be perfect for you. As you are lighter and like to ride the wheels limits. You could set the alarm at 10% and wheel would start to beep very noticeably. When it reaches said 10% setting. < Highly recommend!

You can keep riding past 35km/h speed, but when it's get's way to close to 0% -  it will alarm you. (Works little bit differently. As original alarms may "alarm" - to late..)   As you saw it yourself..

I have an iPhone I would love to use etc world but iPhones don't have it so I have darknessbot

 

[Chriull]

On 11/17/2022 at 4:25 PM, Funky said:

In your case i would use said EUCworld.. As it has that "safety margin" alarm. - Which you need!!!! Because you are riding past "safe" speeds. The safety margin starts from 100% and goes down to 0% at 0% wheels powers off. - Your mentioned overpower/cutout...

 

5 minutes ago, Salihdkn said:

I have an iPhone I would love to use etc world but iPhones don't have it so I have darknessbot

Unfortionately pwm % based alarms are not always too helpfull. Like in your case the internal 88% alarm did not (notable) rise - you already to started out at some relatively high pwm % value and any notable acceleration leads to more or less immediate overlean.

[Salihdkn]

9 minutes ago, Chriull said:

 

Unfortionately pwm % based alarms are not always too helpfull. Like in your case the internal 88% alarm did not (notable) rise - you already to started out at some relatively high pwm % value and any notable acceleration leads to more or less immediate overlean.

I am more careful about it now since it happened I have powers I made at home that's why I can put more power with no problem so it was my fault to push it and for water proofing I taped most places including speaker so I can't hear the "please decelerate" if its not a quiet place or I'm too close to it. the beeping can still be heard but they are right before tailback and now I've set the tailback to 32km/h just to be safe

 

[Chriull]

4 minutes ago, Salihdkn said:

I am more careful about it now since it happened I have powers I made at home that's why I can put more power with no problem

More/stronger batteries?

That would not change (notably) the overlean limit - this depends (mainly) on battery voltage and the used motor.

4 minutes ago, Salihdkn said:

 so it was my fault to push it and for water proofing I taped most places including speaker so I can't hear the "please decelerate" if its not a quiet place or I'm too close to it. the beeping can still be heard but they are right before tailback and now I've set the tailback to 32km/h just to be safe

As mentioned in the other topic it's very safe to ride the ks16s (with batteries roughly above 50%) at 35 km/h - no need for a 32km/h restriction.

It's the high burden (acceleration) at such speeds that's not possible! You will overlean as "easy" at 32m/h or 30km/h! Maybe just a tenth of a second later...

So everything one has to regard is to just comfortably cruise at 30-35km/h and restrict stronger accelerations (burdens) to somewhere below roughly 20 km/h.

[Salihdkn]

39 minutes ago, Chriull said:

More/stronger batteries?

That would not change (notably) the overlean limit - this depends (mainly) on battery voltage and the used motor.

As mentioned in the other topic it's very safe to ride the ks16s (with batteries roughly above 50%) at 35 km/h - no need for a 32km/h restriction.

It's the high burden (acceleration) at such speeds that's not possible! You will overlean as "easy" at 32m/h or 30km/h! Maybe just a tenth of a second later...

So everything one has to regard is to just comfortably cruise at 30-35km/h and restrict stronger accelerations (burdens) to somewhere below roughly 20 km/h.

when you have 75%+ battery on ks16s its not that hard to go over 40km/h and don't notice it also so its a bit hard to know since there's no display on it anyways its snowy already I will definitely not be riding over 20-25km/h

[mrelwood]

15 hours ago, Salihdkn said:

when you have 75%+ battery on ks16s its not that hard to go over 40km/h

Yes it is. The tilt-back is sharp enough that it should cut your attempts short very early. I never succeeded in reaching higher than 36km/h, even for a short while.

I really don’t understand what’s going on here. I’ve never heard anyone be able to reach anywhere near 40km/h on a 16S, even for a short burst. How do you get past the tilt-back?

Edited November 20, 2022 by mrelwood

[Funky]

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Yes it is. The tilt-back is sharp enough that it should cut your attempts short very early. I never succeeded in reaching higher than 36km/h, even for a short while.

I really don’t understand what’s going on here. I’ve never heard anyone be able to reach anywhere near 40km/h on a 16S, even for a short burst. How do you get past the tilt-back?

Very light rider?  I'm so jelly. And built like jelly.

[mrelwood]

2 minutes ago, Funky said:

Very light rider?

Nope, the tilt-back is strictly at 35 even during a free spin.

[Funky]

9 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

Nope, the tilt-back is strictly at 35 even during a free spin.

1 off wheel.. Where the "limits" are put higher than it should be? Again i'm jelly..  

[mrelwood]

2 minutes ago, Funky said:

1 off wheel.. Where the "limits" are put higher than it should be? Again i'm jelly..  

I thought you wanted to have an ample safety headroom??  Raising the tilt-back speed would directly cut into the headroom. Like we’ve learned in this topic as well, btw…

[Funky]

18 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

I thought you wanted to have an ample safety headroom??  Raising the tilt-back speed would directly cut into the headroom. Like we’ve learned in this topic as well, btw…

I'm jelly for him having "faster" wheel. I'm not so high on jelly for safety reasons.  I would never ride anywhere near the top speed of any EUC.. Like i said, i like riding ~40-44 out of 50. Never go past 45!

Edited November 20, 2022 by Funky

[Salihdkn]

17 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Yes it is. The tilt-back is sharp enough that it should cut your attempts short very early. I never succeeded in reaching higher than 36km/h, even for a short while.

I really don’t understand what’s going on here. I’ve never heard anyone be able to reach anywhere near 40km/h on a 16S, even for a short burst. How do you get past the tilt-back?

basically power pads its just way easier to push through without even worrying about the tilt back

[Funky]

Just now, Salihdkn said:

basically power pads its just way easier to push through without even worrying about the tilt back

Genius move.. xD Ignoring said "alarm".

[Salihdkn]

11 minutes ago, Funky said:

Genius move.. xD Ignoring said "alarm".

normally I used to. that time I didn't but battery wasn't as high so probably that now I don't go too fast anymore

tho

[Funky]

9 minutes ago, Salihdkn said:

normally I used to. that time I didn't but battery wasn't as high so probably that now I don't go too fast anymore

tho

The alarms are made for a reason. Anyone who has some sense would not ignore them. (Telling how it is - i won't sugar coat anything.)

Just shows again and again people who ignore the alarms, or like to ride the "beeps" most often crashes. You need to respect the BEEPS! They will save your ass - literally.

Again if you weighed same as me 124kg - you would have fallen multiple times already.

I personally slow down right at the first beep. (That isn't the quiet speed alarm.) Overpower, high speed alarm. Anything..

Edited November 20, 2022 by Funky

[mrelwood]

10 hours ago, Salihdkn said:

basically power pads its just way easier to push through without even worrying about the tilt back

I got a feeling that you should be reminded about something even way more crucial than crashing at full speed:

 If your wheel’s battery starts acting strange in ANY way, doesn’t charge to full, doesn’t charge normally, stops charging midway, your range drops noticeably, you get new warnings while riding, warnings during charging, etc… ANYTHING that’s new. DO NOT CHARGE THE WHEEL until you have figured out what’s wrong. Best to stop riding altogether actually.

 Why? Because the fire risk would  make an astronomical jump, and if you keep using the wheel and charging it with any kinds of tricks or unorthodox methods, the wheel will probably ignite violently at any time.

 If you feel like disregarding this warning, first look on YouTube what an EUC fire looks like. Then have a glimpse here:

 

 

[Funky]

7 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I got a feeling that you should be reminded about something even way more crucial than crashing at full speed:

 If your wheel’s battery starts acting strange in ANY way, doesn’t charge to full, doesn’t charge normally, stops charging midway, your range drops noticeably, you get new warnings while riding, warnings during charging, etc… ANYTHING that’s new. DO NOT CHARGE THE WHEEL until you have figured out what’s wrong. Best to stop riding altogether actually.

 Why? Because the fire risk would  make an astronomical jump, and if you keep using the wheel and charging it with any kinds of tricks or unorthodox methods, the wheel will probably ignite violently at any time.

 If you feel like disregarding this warning, first look on YouTube what an EUC fire looks like. Then have a glimpse here:

 

 

Meh.. I'm not afraid of some little fire. I will keep riding my wheel till it dies.. Or literally burst into flames.

No point exchanging the batteries. It's cheaper to simply buy new wheel. When old one burns down.  

 

 

Was meant as a joke. But some do that. Play with fire - get burned.

Also after each charge one should look at max voltage. If it's the same as before 0.01V difference. - Everything is OKAY. If it drops suddenly by 3-4.2V - you got big, big problems. (The timer for the bomb is set.)

Edited November 21, 2022 by Funky