alcatraz Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Hey fellow riders I have a Tesla v1 with lots or black toasty areas around the motor connectors (only). I want to replace these old bullet/banana connectors with something better. I have never been able to even pull them apart, for fixing flat tires etc. I saw a video from speedyfeet where they crimped on new connectors to the motor side only. Two problems. 1. No connectors are actually designed for crimping. 2. I have the choice to choose anything (better) that can handle the current. I've been looking at the banana/bullet connectors in a 5mm size. These have no outer insulation. They require soldering. But I suppose if they're made out of soft copper I could try to crimp them. Althouth it doesn't appear safe as the cable only goes in a few mm. There's also the option of using XT150 connectors. These are rated for high current and have an external housing which seems nice. No more effing around with questionable soft tubing ziptied around the connector. What have you used in the past? Recommendations? I'd avoid soldering if I could but it seems there's no good way around it. Thanks for your input! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Maybe things have changed, but in order to get a "proper" crimp on a crimp-style connector, you used to have to use a special tool designed for that specific pin. If you don't have the special tool, I would trust solder more than just randomly smashing it with something else. But times have changed so... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostnsvt Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 I really prefer the bullitt connectors that are closed at the end. So far I've had two of those male end quadrants fall/break off. Im not sure if these can handle the current, so im just linking them as an example. https://www.amazon.com/E-flite-EC5-Device-Battery-Connector/dp/B001GLYCSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesleigh Gonzales Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) Hey Alcatraz, While I think some riders do fine with crimp style connections, we tend to steer clear of that on the motor terminals. I know it's more hassle but its more secure, worry free, and less impedance to solder the motor wires in to a bullet connector of some kind. The silicone cover is not great so a better plastic housing would be a plus. You could buy a cheap weller 80w solder iron as that's what we use for this application. Edited March 9, 2022 by Lesleigh Gonzales Clarify 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 4 hours ago, Lesleigh Gonzales said: Hey Alcatraz, While I think some riders do fine with crimp style connections, we tend to steer clear of that on the motor terminals. I know it's more hassle but its more secure, worry free, and less impedance to solder the motor wires in to a bullet connector of some kind. The silicone cover is not great so a better plastic housing would be a plus. You could buy a cheap weller 80w solder iron as that's what we use for this application. Thank you. Which connector type would you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) I could go with the exposed bullet connectors and put some heat resistant tubing over. OR go with some kind of XT150 or similar. XT150 is rated for nearly 100A continuous, and 130A temporary. Edited March 9, 2022 by alcatraz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bracky72 Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 You will never find a solder connection in a car or airplane. They can’t handle the vibration. Crimp is the industry standard. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redsnapper Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 Is this a safe crimp method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RagingGrandpa Posted March 9, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) I agree that crimped terminals are better for vibration... but it depends on the wire, the terminal, and the supporting shell. Gotway motor cables are stiff, coarse-strand wires that were never meant to flex during use. And almost all of the available RC hobby bullet connectors are intended for soldered joints and are inappropriate for crimping. Finding 50A-rated crimp terminals in compact sizes is quite a challenge. For the Gotway Tesla motor, I vote MT60 or MR60 (soldered). It's easy to use, and makes disconnecting and reconnecting the motor foolproof. More options below. https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/25914-inmotion-v11-motorcable-mod/?do=findComment&comment=396516 Edited March 9, 2022 by RagingGrandpa 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 These connectors are all gold plated copper so they're soft. If I crimp them I can't use the housing anymore. So I understand why they're the way they are from the factory. Maybe just go that same route then. Hey I might be able to solder them after crimping. That way the resistance goes down. I wonder if there's any point to that. I've also thought about soldering the original ones. It would explain why only 2 of the 3 connectors are toasty. Only those two have high resistance. A bit of solder could maybe fix them all. Hmm.. decisions.... 😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 Thank you all for your comments and time. I really appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesleigh Gonzales Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 13 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said: I agree that crimped terminals are better for vibration... but it depends on the wire, the terminal, and the supporting shell. Gotway motor cables are stiff, coarse-strand wires that were never meant to flex during use. And almost all of the available RC hobby bullet connectors are intended for soldered joints and are inappropriate for crimping. Finding 50A-rated crimp terminals in compact sizes is quite a challenge. For the Gotway Tesla motor, I vote MT60 or MR60 (soldered). It's easy to use, and makes disconnecting and reconnecting the motor foolproof. More options below. https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/25914-inmotion-v11-motorcable-mod/?do=findComment&comment=396516 18 hours ago, alcatraz said: Thank you. Which connector type would you use? We would repair using the standard 4 mm bullet male and female that was mentioned but this means you have to solder the heat shrink which is good untill you have to yoink the motor again for maintenance. https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Female-Bullet-Connector-Battery/dp/B071WK8TS2 Honestly quick disconnect is also a great way to go like what Raging grandpa mentioned. I would go with the MR60 vs the MT60 with bigger terminal cup as getting the stranded wire in the mt60 cup is a bit of a pain. So if you have the extension motor wires from the CB then you could just remove the original connectors at the motor and solder the male/female connector in and be good to go. Tin the wire and the cup (just light tinning/ small fillet in the cup is all that is needed) then add some rosin and reheat the cup till it flows and insert wire. remove minimal insulation to leave about a wires width from the end of the top of the cup when wire is fully inserted. Good to measure before soldering up. HA! Best of luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 3 hours ago, Lesleigh Gonzales said: We would repair using the standard 4 mm bullet male and female that was mentioned but this means you have to solder the heat shrink which is good untill you have to yoink the motor again for maintenance. https://www.amazon.com/Hobbypark-Female-Bullet-Connector-Battery/dp/B071WK8TS2 Honestly quick disconnect is also a great way to go like what Raging grandpa mentioned. I would go with the MR60 vs the MT60 with bigger terminal cup as getting the stranded wire in the mt60 cup is a bit of a pain. So if you have the extension motor wires from the CB then you could just remove the original connectors at the motor and solder the male/female connector in and be good to go. Tin the wire and the cup (just light tinning/ small fillet in the cup is all that is needed) then add some rosin and reheat the cup till it flows and insert wire. remove minimal insulation to leave about a wires width from the end of the top of the cup when wire is fully inserted. Good to measure before soldering up. HA! Best of luck Then nothing would be crimped. Hmm. What about the idea of using the original ones but crimp AND solder to reduce resistance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redsnapper Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, alcatraz said: AND solder to reduce resistance? https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/ says crimp has less resistance... Edited March 10, 2022 by redsnapper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) 10 hours ago, alcatraz said: crimp AND solder Soldering makes the joint more vulnerable to cracking during vibration. Soldering also makes a poor crimp less likely to pull out. My conclusion was: if you have a good crimp (terminal, crimp tool, and matching wire type & size), never solder it. And if you don't, you might as well cheat by turning the crimp terminal into a solder terminal Edited March 10, 2022 by RagingGrandpa 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesleigh Gonzales Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 On 3/10/2022 at 1:18 AM, alcatraz said: Then nothing would be crimped. Hmm. What about the idea of using the original ones but crimp AND solder to reduce resistance? I mean, when it boils down to it the difference in solder vs crimp in this scenario wont make a huge difference as far as resistance. I've done both in my career but soldering is my preference. If you used a proper crimp tool on a terminal that can handle it for crimping then that should be fine. However, if you want to go that route then you may have to forgo the quick disconnector idea. Yes, I vote to crimp and solder, you will never be able to pull them out! HA. Some of the MOTs come from the factory with solder and a slight crimp also so its very doable. Hope that answers your question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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