Street tire on KS18XL (Metzeler Sportec 70/90 R14)

[Funky]

11 minutes ago, digithom said:

To be honest, the main reason I've not bought the Michelin is I don't like it's tread pattern, I know this shouldn't keept in consideration but this is, and I don't want another middle choice like the stock but some meant for a specific use. 

In the idea to waste money I'll give a try to the Battlax, not to the Michelin. 

But now it's your time 😁

What will you test? 😀

I don't like again completely smooth like you have chosen. xD

I think ill go with Heidenau K66 still choosing right size 80/80-14 or 80/90-14. And attempt cutting/mounting on my moded 18xl. xD

80/80 same height as 18x2.5 but more wide.. Need to cut ~2-3mm sides. 80/90 sits ~2cm higher (Still searching it's real diameter, when i find it.. I will choose one)

Then i will make a tread trying mount it.. + Same time how i will water prof the 18xl motor, etc..

Edited January 8, 2022 by Funky
Water prof

[digithom]

23 hours ago, Funky said:

I don't like again completely smooth like you have chosen. xD

I think ill go with Heidenau K66 still choosing right size 80/80-14 or 80/90-14. And attempt cutting/mounting on my moded 18xl. xD

80/80 same height as 18x2.5 but more wide.. Need to cut ~2-3mm sides. 80/90 sits ~2cm higher (Still searching it's real diameter, when i find it.. I will choose one)

Then i will make a tread trying mount it.. + Same time how i will water prof the 18xl motor, etc..

I like the K66 you mention, it is not a knobby tire but more a street rain type, it looks very similar to the stock Z10 tire. 

80/80 should be really at the limit of possible tire on 18xl, i think that, like for other tire projected for a wider rim, it will be squeed to a final width of 75-76mm

It is not easy to find this tire here in Italy. 

Let us know about this test 👍

[Funky]

1 minute ago, digithom said:

I like the K66 you mention, it is not a knobby tire but more a street rain type, it looks very similar to the stock Z10 tire. 

80/80 should be really at the limit of possible tire on 18xl, i think that, like for other tire projected for a wider rim, it will be squeed to a final width of 75-76mm

It is not easy to find this tire here in Italy. 

Let us know about this test 👍

Yeah, the info what i found here from asking people 80/80 would be same height as 18x2.5.. 80/90 height is around ~51cm.. If it was closer to 49.5cm. I would have taken 80/90.

I was looking also at : Heidenau K42 < real knobby.

At 80/80 it's around 48cm in diameter and 73mm in width, sides can be cut down to ~67mm.. (If the information is right.) Too knobby for my taste.

[Funky]

Just ordered K66 in 80/80-14 size. In week or so ill probably get it. (Ordered it from different country, saved 10euro. xD) If all goes shit at least less spent..

I wonder if i should mount it first then cut.. Or cut it first angling it so that no "knobs" go past side wall.

Probably better mount it first, then see how much i need to cut, and what angle..

Uninstalled you would not see what angle needs to be cut.

Also i wonder if should make "hot knife" soldering iron + box cutter knife, Or simple box cutter knife will work. (Could take my old slashed bike tire and test)

Edited January 9, 2022 by Funky

[Tawpie]

41 minutes ago, Funky said:

Also i wonder if should make "hot knife" soldering iron + box cutter knife

I've not shaved knobs, but others have with a box cutter, an angle grinder (or dremel), and by running the side of the tire against a concrete curb. It probably depends on how much you need to remove but it's sure to be a tedious operation... there's lots of knobs!

[Funky]

1 hour ago, Tawpie said:

I've not shaved knobs, but others have with a box cutter, an angle grinder (or dremel), and by running the side of the tire against a concrete curb. It probably depends on how much you need to remove but it's sure to be a tedious operation... there's lots of knobs!

Only sides straight cut.. Dremel could be fun, i take i should use wood cutting disk? Will take longer, but i have time..

Angle grinder, could not cut as precise as i need..

Edited January 9, 2022 by Funky

[.....]

I'm a tire slut, but i still run the cheap crap stock tire that came on mine. I think I have the Nike tire but i also have a spare of some other thin walled crap. It just seems to me that the speeds the 18xl sees isnt really going to warm a race tire up to tacky. Even if it does, Im also not sure that slideout on smooth pavement, is that much more likely with a cheap thin tire vs a solid street. Tacky is also not a great thing on an euc. When my sherman warms its tire, it also throws EVERYTHING into the 'wheel well'. My 18xl doesnt do this and its a much more pleasant ride.  Traction is all about contact patch. Yes, a tacky tire can offeset this a little.

At any rate, the profile of this street tire, is WAY more a tight angle than the stock type tires. Add to it that you are pinching it onto a rim, and YES, itll be like riding a razor. The 18xl isnt a heavy wheel either. So now we have a harder sidewall tire with more bias, pinched on a rim, running at mediocre weights. The contact patch is probably almost nill, thru the entire lean. The contact patch on a softer tire, is relying on the tube a little more (for support), and I'd bet the available sag at respectable pressures, creates a wider patch.  I'm sure a street can perform great, but I think the XL is one of those 'honda civic' type machines. Sometimes the basic hardware is 'the right hardware'.

Just my$.02 and it probably boils down to intended use of the wheel, over most other things.

Edited January 10, 2022 by ShanesPlanet

[Funky]

3 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I'm a tire slut, but i still run the cheap crap stock tire that came on mine. I think I have the Nike tire but i also have a spare of some other thin walled crap. It just seems to me that the speeds the 18xl sees isnt really going to warm a race tire up to tacky. Even if it does, Im also not sure that slideout on smooth pavement, is that much more likely with a cheap thin tire vs a solid street. Tacky is also not a great thing on an euc. When my sherman warms its tire, it also throws EVERYTHING into the 'wheel well'. My 18xl doesnt do this and its a much more pleasant ride.  Traction is all about contact patch. Yes, a tacky tire can offeset this a little.

At any rate, the profile of this street tire, is WAY more a tight angle than the stock type tires. Add to it that you are pinching it onto a rim, and YES, itll be like riding a razor. The 18xl isnt a heavy wheel either. So now we have a harder sidewall tire with more bias, pinched on a rim, running at mediocre weights. The contact patch is probably almost nill, thru the entire lean. The contact patch on a softer tire, is relying on the tube a little more (for support), and I'd bet the available sag at respectable pressures, creates a wider patch.  I'm sure a street can perform great, but I think the XL is one of those 'honda civic' type machines. Sometimes the basic hardware is 'the right hardware'.

Just my$.02 and it probably boils down to intended use of the wheel, over most other things.

Well there's also riders weight.. I'm for one very chunky guy, 2x the weight of some "normal riders". So tire could work better for me vs some bean sprout riders. xD

Many people have this K66 tire on 40mm rim. They all loved it.. That's mainly why i wanted to try it also.

[digithom]

On 1/10/2022 at 9:18 AM, ShanesPlanet said:

I'm a tire slut, but i still run the cheap crap stock tire that came on mine. I think I have the Nike tire but i also have a spare of some other thin walled crap. It just seems to me that the speeds the 18xl sees isnt really going to warm a race tire up to tacky. Even if it does, Im also not sure that slideout on smooth pavement, is that much more likely with a cheap thin tire vs a solid street. Tacky is also not a great thing on an euc. When my sherman warms its tire, it also throws EVERYTHING into the 'wheel well'. My 18xl doesnt do this and its a much more pleasant ride.  Traction is all about contact patch. Yes, a tacky tire can offeset this a little.

At any rate, the profile of this street tire, is WAY more a tight angle than the stock type tires. Add to it that you are pinching it onto a rim, and YES, itll be like riding a razor. The 18xl isnt a heavy wheel either. So now we have a harder sidewall tire with more bias, pinched on a rim, running at mediocre weights. The contact patch is probably almost nill, thru the entire lean. The contact patch on a softer tire, is relying on the tube a little more (for support), and I'd bet the available sag at respectable pressures, creates a wider patch.  I'm sure a street can perform great, but I think the XL is one of those 'honda civic' type machines. Sometimes the basic hardware is 'the right hardware'.

Just my$.02 and it probably boils down to intended use of the wheel, over most other things.

Running at low pressures my tire warmed up to 38 degrees

anyway, it is not sticky as you describe and I think it will never be for the missing power compared to a motorbike that is projected for.
I agree with problems you described concerning squeezing a bike tire on a bicicle rim, this changes completely the profile of the tire and ride the new EUC is a bet, you've found the best words "ride on a razor"
Yes, everything can be solved, lowering pressure, re learn to ride, ecc ... but, why ?
What's better than before ?
What's the premium at the end of this work ?
I answer: almost nothing, euc behaves better on pavement, rim is more protected from hit, the feeling on high speed is better even if vibration are appeared.
But the stock tire was running softly, riding was easily, and anyone can ride the euc in a minute.

I'll keep running this tire just to see more, I just ran 60km and I can't express my verdict too early.

 

[Funky]

500km on that tire is needed at least.. To confirm anything. (At least that's what i think.)

Ofc it will be different at start. You have gotten used to the original tire.. At start it may feel really bad, but in time it will grown on you?

After 500km you should change back to original tire and tell us how did it feel. xD I bet after those 500km. At start even original tire will feel a lot different, as you where thinking it was.. Because you will be used to the Metzeler Sportec 70/90 tire by that time.

[digithom]

5 minutes ago, Funky said:

500km on that tire is needed at least.. To confirm anything. (At least that's what i think.)

Ofc it will be different at start. You have gotten used to the original tire.. At start it may feel really bad, but in time it will grown on you?

After 500km you should change back to original tire and tell us how did it feel. xD I bet after those 500km. At start even original tire will feel a lot different, as you where thinking it was.. Because you will be used to the Metzeler Sportec 70/90 tire by that time.

Yes, you're right, but I didn't needed so much km to feel confident with the entire wheel, I passed from ks16s to ks18xl and after 20-30km I was feeling confident, running it at full speed and carving better than ks16s, and I changed the entire euc with a bigger one, this is because there is harmony in the euc.
At the end, you'll be able to ride ever a square tire, but again ... why ?
But I'll wait 300-500 km before decide to revert to stock or try another one, euc are made for fun, and I like to test such things.

Edited January 11, 2022 by digithom

[Funky]

I bet if i will be available to put that K66 on my wheel. (After all cutting etc..) It also will feel awkward first. I mainly wanted bigger, better, more thick tire for safety of rim. Because of my weight.. ~800gram weight gain is worth it. Even if i need to relearn riding. xD At the moment, the original tire is kinda boring to ride, slow, etc.. Maybe K66 will be more twitchy, nimble. <3

[.....]

It only took me about 10miles to acclimate to a street tire on my sherman, and determine the gains and losses over stock. I think that if you ride it for hundreds of miles, you will begin to confuse 'getting comfortable' with actual performance gains. I also noted performances gains/losses on my mten tire within a mile. I havent tried any new tires on my 18xl, so I have no experience or usefull info, aside from generalized and basic. I would suspect that any REAL gains that pertain to a certain persons riding habit, will expose themselves quickly. Especially because we are biased and want to justify the cost and time of doing such swaps. Of course, some tires you need to knock the new layer off them. I've been known to use sandpaper.  Is it a gain if you have to modify your riding habit, to get the gains? Hell, even the word 'improvement' can be very vague. I guess it all depends on what exactly you are looking for. Some may find that a solid casing and riding a razor is exactly what they are looking for. Others may find the opposite. Just because I'm content with my tires, doesnt mean they couldnt be improved upon. Personally, I'm enjoying NOT worrying about it.

Edited January 12, 2022 by ShanesPlanet
typos, because im not ready to open my new keyboard.

[digithom]

Yesterday I went back home from last job trip and today I used my wheel again, I went to job by monowheel.
First impression after 1 week stop, it is still hard to ride, last time, following the idea that 1.1 is too low I rised the pressure from 1.1 to 1.3bar(19 PSI) and the effect is that the wheel is too unstable on carving, you can't even touch the frame without wheel wobbles and, every small imperfection in the road feels you unstable, even if you don't loose the control, the feeling is not the best.
So, before start the trip back home after work I decided to low again pressure, I was having pressure indicator with me but, just to try to measure it, I dropped the pressure down to 0,95bar (13,7 PSI), I told myself "you if 1.1 is better than 1.3, why don't take a tour a 0,95. just to try".
I wish I'd tried it sooner 
It is now soft, similar to the stock, it is stable, and I can ride easily, stable on carve, and on speed up and brake doesn't even mention to wobble, this aspect is better than stock.
Even at this very low pressure, the rigidity added by sidewalls is more than enough to hold my weight and at the same time soft, stable and easy to ride.
The only missing feature respect to the stock tire is the immunity to longitudinal tracks on ground, the stock one behaves a little bit better.
Up to now I can't say that replace a good stock tire with this Metzeler result in an improvement of the wheel, but it can be considered a good replacement and a way to reinvent the 18xl.
Now I can ride safely and I no longer feel fear to ride under critical stability conditions so, I'll report again my experience after more km 
 

[digithom]

I've ridden my euc with this tire for more or less 200km, and it is time to sum up ...

I changed the tire searching for a more robust street tread instead of the light bicycle provided as stock but I'm realizing that this feature is in reality the "problem" to fight with.
When the euc is running on a flat surface, the perfect condition, everything seems perfect but when the road is inclined to one side, you suddenly feel your euc trying to tilt strongly.
On my first time, I was really scared !
Imagine, you're running straight and suddenly, euc wants to tilt and carve, you're not trained to detect a so small changing of inclination of the road.
This is given by the hardness of the tread, it is hard to deformate and keeps his shape, this result in a push on one sie of the tire when it is running on a side inclined surface, resulting in a tilt of the euc.

The stock wheel instead is softer ad deformates under the weight and the contact point with ground is most near to the center respect to an hard tread tire and tilt effect is a lot reduced.

 

Yes, lowering the pressure make the hard tread tire to behave more similar to the stock one but at a certain point it is to low to ride (and you would low down it more), tire warms up, it is noisy and requires more energy from motor, even more, it is no longer able to save rim from hit on steps or obstacles. 
I'm talking of inclined road as a static analysis but, on riding, every shape change of the road provocates this phenomenon dynamically with the result that on high constant speed carve wheel tends to wobble at every detail on the road.

Two tricks to solve (better say workaround) this are:

1) keep legs near to euc body, so that every time it tries to tilt, you'll be able to maintain it straight pushing the leg instead to search the balance with the feet.
2) it is better to carve strongly than doing it smoothly, split a long carve in multiple small but strong carve, it is almost impossible to maintain an high speed carve without that the wheel wobbles under the continuous shape change of the road.

Even if I can now handle the euc with this tire, I have to admit that it is more difficult to ride and I'm shure that with this kind of training I'll feel like superman is If reinstall the stock tire.
This tire required me to relearn to ride my euc and trained me to a better euc control, my conclusion is that there is no reason to prefer those kind if tires to the stock one.

Edited January 23, 2022 by digithom

[Funky]

Can't wait to test mine k66 tire. My roads are only flat.. I can't seem to think of any incline around me, to test what you're saying. xD

Simply you have to fight your wheel on that leg where you are turning.(Putting more weight on one leg) vs original tire you simply could ride on both legs? Right?

As i'm 2x your weight, i maybe won't notice it "so much"

 

Edited January 23, 2022 by Funky

[digithom]

14 hours ago, Funky said:

Can't wait to test mine k66 tire. My roads are only flat.. I can't seem to think of any incline around me, to test what you're saying. xD

Simply you have to fight your wheel on that leg where you are turning.(Putting more weight on one leg) vs original tire you simply could ride on both legs? Right?

As i'm 2x your weight, i maybe won't notice it "so much"

 

don't look at my pictures in a static way, think dinamically, every small defect of the road, every small stone under the tire, every hollow of the road are basically a rapid change of the inclination, and the euc will suddenly react rapidly and vigorously.
With the euc behaving in this way, you'll see that the road is not flat as you suppose.
I suggest you to start very slowly, and appositely search these conditions in order to be prepared to what I mean, I had the chance to fight with this on my first 10 meters out of my house, I were lucky, I din't expected to have to solve problems like this, everybody warned me about wobble on braking, but it never wobbled and anyway wobble is a joke compared to euc self driving to manage 

Edited January 24, 2022 by digithom

[Eucner]

17 hours ago, digithom said:

The stock wheel instead is softer ad deformates under the weight and the contact point with ground is most near to the center respect to an hard tread tire and tilt effect is a lot reduced.

Actually the contact point doesn't move that much, if all. The off-center red lines are slightly in wrong places.

17 hours ago, digithom said:

lowering the pressure make the hard tread tire to behave more similar to the stock one 

The cone effect makes the tire on inclined surface to go uphill. This is a counter force to the moment you presented. At the lower tire pressure this phenomenon is greater. An other thing to consider is the crown radius. The original tire's sectional shape is round. The Metzeler is oval due to 90% aspect ratio. This makes the crown radius and thus also the moment distance in your second drawing bigger.

Here is a link to more info on same subject.

 

[digithom]

1 hour ago, Eucner said:

Actually the contact point doesn't move that much, if all. The off-center red lines are slightly in wrong places.

The cone effect makes the tire on inclined surface to go uphill. This is a counter force to the moment you presented. At the lower tire pressure this phenomenon is greater. An other thing to consider is the crown radius. The original tire's sectional shape is round. The Metzeler is oval due to 90% aspect ratio. This makes the crown radius and thus also the moment distance in your second drawing bigger.

Here is a link to more info on same subject.

 

Did you tried yourself ?
A lot of people reported me theory they've never tested personally, there is a big difference between legend and facts.
Wheel doesn't behave as described, it doesn't ride uphill but wants to go downhill, it sticks to your leg with the intention to tilt in the direction I've drawn, it isn't tracking the highest point of the road, but the lowest.
Yes, even with the stock tire, the contact point is slightly out of center, in fact, even with this tire you feel the same sensation, but a lot reduced.
A wider wheel, with a 80 aspect ratio, would result in a more far contact point from center point, I can bet it will be even worst.
When I realized this, I remembered the description of the bahaviour of the Z10 that has a 4" tubeless tire, it act in the same way ...

Edited January 24, 2022 by digithom

[Eucner]

1 hour ago, digithom said:

Did you tried yourself ?

Off course I've tested it. It doesn't matter if you tilt the tire or ground. The angle between ground and tire creates a cone effect. Without this effect you would be limited to yaw steering. I'm pretty sure you are also tilting the wheel to steer, as we all do.

1 hour ago, digithom said:

Wheel doesn't behave as described, it doesn't ride uphill but wants to go downhill, it sticks to your leg with the intention to tilt in the direction I've drawn, it isn't tracking the highest point of the road, but the lowest.

There is two steering forces in opposite directions. Where the wheels goes and how forcefully, depends on the magnitudes of these forces. Tire pressure and geometry has a huge impact on this, as you have also found out.

Now, could you tell me why the red lines in two of your drawings doesn't go through the middle of contact points?

[digithom]

2 hours ago, Eucner said:

Off course I've tested it. It doesn't matter if you tilt the tire or ground. The angle between ground and tire creates a cone effect. Without this effect you would be limited to yaw steering. I'm pretty sure you are also tilting the wheel to steer, as we all do.

 

I'm not talking about test a carve by tilting the wheel and experiment the cone effect, but to have personally tested an hard tread tire on your euc ... if yes, which one ? on which euc ? this comparison could be very interesting.
I say this because I've the impressione that you've not figured what I'm trying to explain, and I know it is not easy to tell without video or images.
Wheel is not trying to carve under the cone effect you explain, but tilts right and left on every even small change of shape of the road, it is like if it is alive and wants to ride himself without your control, the worst is when you get a small stone or a scratch, the soft stock tire would have absorbed it while the hard one climbs over on a single and small point of contact, you can bet it will not be on the center line and, here again the quick tilt of the entire monowheel.
Insisting on ride you learn how to handle this, but it still is a more difficult way to ride compared to the stock tire.

Quote

Now, could you tell me why the red lines in two of your drawings doesn't go through the middle of contact points?

 drawings are made by hand just to explain, they are not perfect, but forces involved are like explained.
I could make a better and precise drawing using a cad if this is useful.

Quote

The Metzeler is oval due to 90% aspect ratio. This makes the crown radius and thus also the moment distance in your second drawing bigger.

Unfortunately I've not any photo of the stock tire when it was mounted on the rim, so I can't compare side by side the two tires, but I have the impression that they are very similar, I could say that Metzeller has a smaller crown radius compared to stock, width 70 is reduced to 64 due to the narrow rim, so it doesn't have the shape shown in the photos.
I'll shot some now ...

and look compared to the stock, stock one is not on the rim, but it is very similar.

I think we can say that the shape can't be so different to make this difference I'm describing.
Width and height are identical, also shape is not so different, we could say that stock has a higher crown radius (so it should be worst) but it will be the same as Metzeler when installed and inflated, what other parameter can be taken in to account ?
 

 

[.....]

On 1/23/2022 at 2:30 PM, digithom said:

I've ridden my euc with this tire for more or less 200km, and it is time to sum up ...

I changed the tire searching for a more robust street tread instead of the light bicycle provided as stock but I'm realizing that this feature is in reality the "problem" to fight with.
When the euc is running on a flat surface, the perfect condition, everything seems perfect but when the road is inclined to one side, you suddenly feel your euc trying to tilt strongly.
On my first time, I was really scared !
Imagine, you're running straight and suddenly, euc wants to tilt and carve, you're not trained to detect a so small changing of inclination of the road.
This is given by the hardness of the tread, it is hard to deformate and keeps his shape, this result in a push on one sie of the tire when it is running on a side inclined surface, resulting in a tilt of the euc.

The stock wheel instead is softer ad deformates under the weight and the contact point with ground is most near to the center respect to an hard tread tire and tilt effect is a lot reduced.

 

Yes, lowering the pressure make the hard tread tire to behave more similar to the stock one but at a certain point it is to low to ride (and you would low down it more), tire warms up, it is noisy and requires more energy from motor, even more, it is no longer able to save rim from hit on steps or obstacles. 
I'm talking of inclined road as a static analysis but, on riding, every shape change of the road provocates this phenomenon dynamically with the result that on high constant speed carve wheel tends to wobble at every detail on the road.

Two tricks to solve (better say workaround) this are:

1) keep legs near to euc body, so that every time it tries to tilt, you'll be able to maintain it straight pushing the leg instead to search the balance with the feet.
2) it is better to carve strongly than doing it smoothly, split a long carve in multiple small but strong carve, it is almost impossible to maintain an high speed carve without that the wheel wobbles under the continuous shape change of the road.

Even if I can now handle the euc with this tire, I have to admit that it is more difficult to ride and I'm shure that with this kind of training I'll feel like superman is If reinstall the stock tire.
This tire required me to relearn to ride my euc and trained me to a better euc control, my conclusion is that there is no reason to prefer those kind if tires to the stock one.

Come to think of it... My pirelli on my sherman tends to track the slope of the road a little more than my knobby did. Im not wasting brain cells to even figure out why. It could be multiple small differences. I must agree tho, my larger euc does like to follow the tilt of the road and its especially noticeable when going higher speeds down a very straight path. SOmetimes I find myself leaning quite a bit to one side, simply to offset the angle. If the wind happens to align with the grade, I have had times where I simply could NOT reach top speed, as I was having to lean too far to simply stay on the straight but angled road.

One of the things I like most about my 18xl, is that its NOT designed to be high performance. I treat it like a basic Honda civic, and I havent any reason to put race tires on a civic.

[digithom]

6 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Come to think of it... My pirelli on my sherman tends to track the slope of the road a little more than my knobby did. Im not wasting brain cells to even figure out why. It could be multiple small differences. I must agree tho, my larger euc does like to follow the tilt of the road and its especially noticeable when going higher speeds down a very straight path. SOmetimes I find myself leaning quite a bit to one side, simply to offset the angle. If the wind happens to align with the grade, I have had times where I simply could NOT reach top speed, as I was having to lean too far to simply stay on the straight but angled road.

 

So, you're confirming me that even another euc behaves in the same way, this is a good news ...
I like to waste brain cells solving problems, it is also my job 
 

Quote

One of the things I like most about my 18xl, is that its NOT designed to be high performance. I treat it like a basic Honda civic, and I havent any reason to put race tires on a civic.

My intentions was not to transform my ks18xl into a race euc, I agree with you that his nature is different, I only wish to improve his stability using a more serious tire than the bicycle one they provide as stock, but I have to admit that I missed the target.
I could also revert to the sock tire and the game is over, but euc is more a toy than a necessity, so why don't explore things ?

 

[Funky]

Maybe because of height 70/90 is around 50mm? C-1448 was 54mm. Same time it's side walls are a lot (i mean a lot) thicker? My K66 tire was like 5x thicker.. So it compress less.. Same as you would be riding tire filled full of rubber, it doesn't want to change form.

There's also could be 2x weight = gyro effect? Rock hits disturbs it some how and euc feels it a lot more?

Dam i want to test my wheel so much now. lol

Edited January 24, 2022 by Funky

[.....]

25 minutes ago, digithom said:

I could also revert to the sock tire and the game is over, but euc is more a toy than a necessity, so why don't explore things ?

 

If it aint broke, don't fix it?

I dont think the 'game is over' should be a concern. There's always the chance youll find comfort in being content, and shifting your focus to something like...  "how many kids laying flat, can I jump over?"   I get it tho, I used to always try and farkle EVERYTHING. I must just be getting old nowadays, as I find it refreshing when something is good enough. Its so rare that something works as intended, I kind of rejoice and leave it be, when it happens. The Euc game is one of these things where "if it aint broke, dont fix it", truly applies. Such a crapshoot to find a good reliable ride, I damn sure aint messin with it, if i do. My sherm is a little more purpose oriented and a street over knobby on it, made good sense to me. My mten was worsened by tire upgrade, tho longevity may outrank the drawbacks. Im currently running the Nike tire on my 18xl. I have a spare tire sitting here of similar but not same. Tbh, I am not looking forward to using it. I'm sure itll be fine, but its different. For now, I really don't notice any stability issues at all. Of course, they dont sell the tire I have on it, so I wil be forced to change... i f*cking hate that. Being my first wheel and dedicated all rounder, my 18xl is like an old pair of boots. New boots are nice, but man do these old ones feel comfy as is..

Best of luck in your end decision. It is cool to try things and I guess you never know until you do.

Edited January 24, 2022 by ShanesPlanet