RagingGrandpa Posted May 30, 2023 Share Posted May 30, 2023 (edited) On 5/7/2023 at 5:40 PM, RagingGrandpa said: 1A: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804212304296.html " Car LED Bar Worklight 4000LM Offroad Work Light 12V 24V Auto Light " Received a few of these; I like them. The light includes a blinking mode, which you can enable or disable by rapidly turning the light off then on from the Sherman control panel. A bonus. The mounting tab is ~1cm narrower than the Sherman bracket, so you'll need a stack of washers to space it out, no big deal. These have no second "running light" circuit, so the second headlight connector circuit on Sherman becomes free for connecting other low-draw marker lights if desired. I used these, which seem cheaply made, but work nicely. Edited May 30, 2023 by RagingGrandpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathieu Tech Moto Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 I did a video comparison test on my Sherman-S of this exact light, this can be a good replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted November 30, 2023 Share Posted November 30, 2023 Dunno if you guys saw the mount I designed for the Sherman S and the light I used, it's a very good light, much brighter than stock light, does not blind if angled correctly, low beam high beam. On Sherman S the beeper sits on the light as well so if you want to keep the beeper function can't just replace light alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 On 5/7/2023 at 5:40 PM, RagingGrandpa said: Did some digging... these seem to hit AE best by searching "4 work light" (as in 4-inch) 1A: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804212304296.html " Car LED Bar Worklight 4000LM Offroad Work Light 12V 24V Auto Light " Hello. I keep having issues with the lights on my sherman max, and I am going to buy this 1A headlight. What connectors/jacks do I need to wire these things together to make them compatible to plug into the Sherman? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 (edited) Break open (unscrew) your old broken light, and take the power cable from it. Check pinout, solder/crimp, seal, done. Sadly, as you can see below, most of the alternative lights fill up the space around the rollbar and make it difficult to use the bar as a grab handle for lifting the EUC... Some people use special spacers to move the light forward of the bar, opening the gap again. It's just metal, modify as desired. On 2/1/2022 at 1:53 AM, Number1stunner said: Edited January 24 by RagingGrandpa 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Just now, RagingGrandpa said: Break open (unscrew) your old broken light, and take the power cable from it. Check pinout, solder/crimp, seal, done. I'm not sure if it's the power cable from the old headlight that is the issue. I'm assuming it's something inside the light that is the issue. The main beam went out, but before it was the red blinkers that went out and the main beam worked.... so I don't know what is going on. I have also tried two different wires from the motherboard to the headlight jacks and same issue. What I've noticed though is the main light might come on for a split second or two but then quickly turns off. Probably an issue with the headlight itself I'm assuming, not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 They do fail... I think it's more likely the light, than the controller. When you dismantle your old light and remove the cable, do a resistance check on each of its 3 circuits while wiggling the cable and connector, to confirm integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 (edited) 3 minutes ago, RagingGrandpa said: They do fail... I think it's more likely the light, than the controller. When you dismantle your old light and remove the cable, do a resistance check on each of its 3 circuits while wiggling the cable and connector, to confirm integrity. OK, thanks. Yeah, I want to open the light up but I need those star bits to loosen the screws and I need to buy some first. I'll do that check as you mentioned when I open it up. Any concerns on this new light causing any issues like overdrawing too much power or doing any weird things to the EUC? I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electronics.. Edited January 24 by BKW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 2 minutes ago, BKW said: Any concerns on this new light causing any issues like overdrawing Yeah, better to stay at or below the original light's current draw (1.6A). Above that, people report mixed results. Some controllers seem to tolerate more current than others... Try the 1A light, it's bright, cheap, ez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Just now, RagingGrandpa said: Yeah, better to stay at or below the original light's current draw (1.6A). Above that, people report mixed results. Some controllers seem to tolerate more current than others... Try the 1A light, it's bright, cheap, ez. OK. If I'm below the original light's draw of 1.6A I should be fine? 1A seems like a safer choice, even over the original in this case? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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