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Found 13 results

  1. During the past month, we have sent out some V11 for review and testing. One of the frequently asked question is that if we can denoise the sound of the fan. After received the feedbacks about the noise of the fan on Inmotion V11 EUC, we noticed that most of the compaint is about the sound when it's stationary. During cruising in high speed, the sound of the fan is not noticeable. To solve the problem, we will launch a new function on the app to kill the sound at July 18th, 2020. "Fan Denoise" Function On When it's activated, and the V11's stationary. Brightness Level of the Headlight: Above 40%, the brightness level will be adjusted to 40% automatically. Meanwhile, the fan will stop. Below 40%, the brightness level will stay at the same level. Then, the fan will stop. "Fan Denoise" Function Disabled When you open the headlight, the fan will be activated no matter in what condition. If you guys have any better suggestion, pls comment below to share your thoughts or join our Telegram group chat with other passionate riders. Come and Join us: https://t.me/Inmotiontelegram
  2. New to the forum as well as the EUC world. I just purchased my first EUC the mten3 and it arrived today. I am in the process of learning to ride and understanding my wheel. I am having a difficult time figuring out why the headlight keeps coming back on after I shut my wheel down completely. I shut the wheel down and everything looks fine than approximately 10-20 minutes later it is back on at a very low intensity but it is on. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Hi I just got a KS-N1-B for my wife who can't ride euc. Basic question: How do you turn the headlights on? I've tried turning it on in the dark in case they are automatic like my 18L. I can't see a switch anywhere. 😒 @The Fat Unicyclist
  4. Got my new headlight few days ago. Hope it helps for those interested. Enjoy!
  5. As a long time reader but not so long time contributor to this forum, please let me introduce myself: the name's Jens, I'm German native, but living (and riding my EUCs) in France, Normandy region. I have been learning on a Ninebot 1s2 and currently upgraded to an Inmotion V10F. Engineering background and studies, currently working in the automotive industry. OK, so when upgrading to the V10F, there were some additional features, the Ninebot did't have, for example the head- and taillights. Not the most important, but the ones this post is about. This of course brings a first night ride on the plan, thing I avoided on the 1s2, I didn't feel secure enough. I might need to add that I'm not riding in the city but countryside, smaller roads which are well shared between cars, bikes and pedestrians but at night completely dark. The headlight on the V10F is bright, and at first sight quite well oriented, you see the road and what's around you. Nevertheless the upcoming traffic let me know quite quickly that the light is blinding them. It is true for my wheel, as well as for most if not all others, the headlight is a more or less bright LED chip with either a reflector or a lens. These lenses/reflectors haven't been given a second thought obviously, as they are projecting a circular light beam which opens equally in all directions including the upper direction just like a handheld flashlight would. The part of the beam directed upside is blinding upcoming traffic, it is like driving your car or motorbike with the high beam permanently on. We could argue that this way at least we are seen which brings security but personally I don't agree. A blinded upcoming driver is disoriented and could steer towards you as he will by instinct fix the light source and automatically go that direction. Only few of us (manly motor bikers) are trained to do the opposite. I was thinking about the solutions that are known to me. How is it done for motor vehicles? Well for the older ones, a combination of reflector and diffuser was used to form the light beam to a certain shape. In modern cars the same is achieved either through ingeniously formed reflectors or lenses, which can even be oriented in some higher-end vehicles. In all cases, the beam is shaped in a way that the upper part is cut off or redirected downwards, the same for the outermost left part for left-hand drive vehicles (right part for right-hand drive). I wanted a simple solution which can be applied by everyone with the least modification to the EUC, especially if you still have warranty on the device. So what do we need? The EUC (obviously), it's software or phone app, some electrician's tape, a wall perpendicular to the ground (ideally a bright color, but not necessarily) and 6-10 meters distance to this wall. Preparation: power up your EUC and your app and make sure that the inclination of the pedals is set to your liking. Step 1: switch on the headlight and move your EUC the closest possible to the wall so that you see the light spot on the wall and have just enough room to tape a chunk (20-30 cm) of electrician's tape to the wall. The tape should form a horizontal line. The lower edge of the tape should be aligned with the upper limit of the light spot. Step 2: reverse from the wall, put a maximum of distance between your EUC and the wall in a way that you can still clearly see the limits of the projected light circle (6-10m should do) as well as the previously installed tape. Step 3 (base version): tape a piece of electrician's tape of 3-4 cm length horizontally over your EUC's headlight in a way that the upper limit of the projected light circle is cut and the limit corresponds to the lower limit of the tape strip on the wall. Step 3 (improved version): tape a piece of electrician's tape of 3-4 cm length over your EUC's headlight inclined to the side where opposing traffic usually comes up, i.e. inclined to the left for countries with LHD cars, right lane traffic and inclined to the right for countries with RHD cars, left lane traffic (in the UK and Commonwealth). Taking the example of the LHD version, the lower cut of the light beam (on the left) corresponds with the lower edge of the tape strip on the wall. I attached a small PDF file to put some images to these steps for your convenience. The improved version has the advantage that you still can see further in front of you, better anticipating your surroundings at night (pedestrians who want to cross the street, ...) as opposed to the base version where you only see what's on the road. I have tested both, I am more at ease with the improved version on our dark countryside roads. No more complaints from upcoming traffic so far. An even further improved version would need to cut the tape to shape, more or less a 'H' shape without the upper left and lower right dash for countries using LHD vehicles, right-lane traffic (without the lower left and upper right dash for countries using RHD vehicles, left lane traffic). I haven't pictured this as the idea came later on. Well, I hope that this first technical post of mine was understandable and will be of use for you. If any questions, comments or further improvement ideas don't hesitate. EUC headlight antiglare mod.pdf
  6. First: Changed the headlight SMD with about 80 Lumen(right) to 300 Lumen(left) output. The new one is the same like the SMD from Cateye Volt300. Forgot to make pictures before and after. Unfortunately... But it's really bright right now Now I just hope the heat dissipation works well enough Second: Add some SMD to the backlight. Second picture is the original LED strip. Third pic with the modification.
  7. Can some of you guys give me some suggestions on headlights i can attach to my monster for night riding? Preferably rechargeable.
  8. Hi folks, I am just back from a test ride... With a new headlight ! I managed to fix two bike LED headlights, each powered by 3 AAA batteries. And it is great ! I can see street traffic signs reflecting my lights 100m ahead ! Cheers
  9. Picked up some electroluminescent tape (red & white) from Tinkersphere in Manhattan. Ran the wire in the frame and connected to the existing LED power lines with a 12V inverter and some soldering. They are on when the LEDs have power, but can be turned off. https://youtu.be/_43grjw-YKk
  10. I tried taking apart a bike light I had to make it fit better, but I burnt out the board trying to power it, I ended up buying an RGB LED ring and put it behind some pieces from the bike light. The RGB controller was required and you can do color changing and modes, but I stuffed it in the pad with the other wiring. I added a little toggle switch for it, but I plan to make it a cooler push button with LED indicator Front Headlight LED: http://tinkersphere.com/led-rings/1182-8-x-ws2812-5050-rgb-led-ring-with-integrated-drivers-neopixel-compatible.html Front Headlight Controller: http://tinkersphere.com/addressable-rgb-products/1052-5v-addressable-ws2812-rgb-led-strip-controller.html This is the headlight I burnt out the bored on but used parts from: http://usd.knog.com.au/bike/lights/blinder-mob-the-face.html Lights are wired to the internal 5V LED power. Note: I bypassed the control wire on the internal LED controller so that I could have a constant light, but the controller does actually control the LED and the ring can be used as a battery level indicator or etc for whatever the lights do. I only use the internal LEDs for batter currently, though I'm working on another solution...
  11. For the impatient: headlight effectiveness is visible from about 5:00 As days become shorter, I needed a brighter replacement for my just-enough-to-be-seen flimsy headlight to continue commuting with my Msuper. I'll probably bore you to death with my lengthy daylight introduction to my favorite stretch on the commute, which leads through a forestry park (recognise anything, @ScooterB ? ). It's perfectly smooth, interrupted by 20m of the nastiest cobblestone ever and there's always a chance of that tree branch lying where you don't want it. And after sunset, most of it is pitch black. After some searching, I found this 3 LED light http://www.ebay.de/itm/391104476033 for some 15 Euro. I'm sure, you can find similar on ebay.com or ali. While most LED headlights are made for bicycles and only mount to a handlebar, this one comes with a strap to tie it to your forehead. After removing the straps, the base plate can be easily attached to the Msuper with a couple of cable ties. The light itself is held to the base by a rubber string - firm enough to stay in place at bumpy rides, but I sure hope it comes off in case of a fall and does not act as a lever to break the wheel's shell. On illuminated streets I use the lowest setting to avoid blinding. On the dark stretch, I pushed it to max. power (it offers 3 levels, plus a sickening strobe). Batteries are in a separate pack with 4 x 18650's which I attach to my belt for the time being. Have mercy with my choice of music - I picked more or less the first soundtrack Youtube offered . I also used Youtube's anti-shake stabilizer. The effect on the victory column is quite spectacular .
  12. vido


    Hey guys, what kind of headlights you guys attach to your bot? I recently got one but the range ain't so good unless I set it to high, but they battery would die with in 2 hours. Please mention the name of your headlight if you can or pic
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