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Showing results for tags 'headlight'.
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After seeing the compact quad LED Lights on the KingSong scooter that Adam reviewed in his Wrong Way videos I wondered if something like that might be available on AliExpress… I’ve tried lots of different lights with my Sherman, all sourced from AE, but most often I return to the OEM front light as making custom brackets and squeezing in over sized lights isn’t best in the long run. There are others that fit, but have a weird beam pattern for off road riding. This mini quad light fits perfectly - it lines up with the original bracket and just screws straight in. No faff. Easier than the original light. The beam is fantastic: good long throw (easily half a mile ahead) and very good spill to the sides and above so you can see low branches and so-on. Very pleased. The negative: it doesn’t look the best weather sealed light ever. It could use a gasket or some silicone between the front plate and the main body. As before I soldered a mini right-angled jack connector in place to use the light with my Sherman.
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Curious if anyone else has a V12 with an inoperative automatic headlight. I've been enjoying an otherwise perfect V12 for about two weeks now. Loving it so far, but the headlight only works in manual mode. I can operate the headlight at all intensities (off, low beam, high beam, both) but in automatic mode it never illuminates regardless of the ambient light level--even in pitch black conditions. I've tried adjusting the threshold values in the app as well. ...no luck. Upgrading the firmware to V1.4.5 made no difference either. I carefully dissected the case and traced the connections from the photo resistor to the contact PCB in the top cover. Measuring the resistance across the contacts seemed to show a normal operating range ( ~200 ohms -> 380k ohms) from light to dark. I assume the problem is deeper in the control circuitry, but have not pulled the main controller yet. Since everything else is fine, I'm reluctant to start scraping off the Silastic and disconnecting harnesses. And unless there's something brutally obvious (like a smoked component) I'm not sure I have the expertise to diagnose the issue any further. Does anyone else's V12 suffer from the same defect? I've been in contact with Jason and team at EWheels and they have been extraordinarily responsive, as usual. A big shout-out to them! Given there are many other new V12 owners with far more serious issues to resolve, I suspect this will take quite a while to prioritize and fix. Nevertheless, It could be helpful to know if this is just a one-off failure, or a more prevalent problem with the V12 design or implementation. Has anyone else seen this problem? Any other insights or ideas to share?
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Good day all, new member and new rider here. I've been learning on a borrowed KS-18XL and had the opportunity to pick up a second hand one in great shape so I have. So far very happy except that the headlight on the one I bought is utterly and completely useless - the output is just nothing like the other one (or what it is supposed to be, based on looking at others' comments and reviews). The obvious fix is to replace the headlight module (not especially costly, so no huge deal) but first I wondered - has anybody here tried to replace/mod for even better lighting? If so - what did you do and how is it working? If an upgrade can be done instead of just a "repair" I would likely go for it, any input appreciated. Thanks!
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During the past month, we have sent out some V11 for review and testing. One of the frequently asked question is that if we can denoise the sound of the fan. After received the feedbacks about the noise of the fan on Inmotion V11 EUC, we noticed that most of the compaint is about the sound when it's stationary. During cruising in high speed, the sound of the fan is not noticeable. To solve the problem, we will launch a new function on the app to kill the sound at July 18th, 2020. "Fan Denoise" Function On When it's activated, and the V11's stationary. Brightness Level of the Headlight: Above 40%, the brightness level will be adjusted to 40% automatically. Meanwhile, the fan will stop. Below 40%, the brightness level will stay at the same level. Then, the fan will stop. "Fan Denoise" Function Disabled When you open the headlight, the fan will be activated no matter in what condition. If you guys have any better suggestion, pls comment below to share your thoughts or join our Telegram group chat with other passionate riders. Come and Join us: https://t.me/Inmotiontelegram
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New to the forum as well as the EUC world. I just purchased my first EUC the mten3 and it arrived today. I am in the process of learning to ride and understanding my wheel. I am having a difficult time figuring out why the headlight keeps coming back on after I shut my wheel down completely. I shut the wheel down and everything looks fine than approximately 10-20 minutes later it is back on at a very low intensity but it is on. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi I just got a KS-N1-B for my wife who can't ride euc. Basic question: How do you turn the headlights on? I've tried turning it on in the dark in case they are automatic like my 18L. I can't see a switch anywhere. 😒 @The Fat Unicyclist
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As a long time reader but not so long time contributor to this forum, please let me introduce myself: the name's Jens, I'm German native, but living (and riding my EUCs) in France, Normandy region. I have been learning on a Ninebot 1s2 and currently upgraded to an Inmotion V10F. Engineering background and studies, currently working in the automotive industry. OK, so when upgrading to the V10F, there were some additional features, the Ninebot did't have, for example the head- and taillights. Not the most important, but the ones this post is about. This of course brings a first night ride on the plan, thing I avoided on the 1s2, I didn't feel secure enough. I might need to add that I'm not riding in the city but countryside, smaller roads which are well shared between cars, bikes and pedestrians but at night completely dark. The headlight on the V10F is bright, and at first sight quite well oriented, you see the road and what's around you. Nevertheless the upcoming traffic let me know quite quickly that the light is blinding them. It is true for my wheel, as well as for most if not all others, the headlight is a more or less bright LED chip with either a reflector or a lens. These lenses/reflectors haven't been given a second thought obviously, as they are projecting a circular light beam which opens equally in all directions including the upper direction just like a handheld flashlight would. The part of the beam directed upside is blinding upcoming traffic, it is like driving your car or motorbike with the high beam permanently on. We could argue that this way at least we are seen which brings security but personally I don't agree. A blinded upcoming driver is disoriented and could steer towards you as he will by instinct fix the light source and automatically go that direction. Only few of us (manly motor bikers) are trained to do the opposite. I was thinking about the solutions that are known to me. How is it done for motor vehicles? Well for the older ones, a combination of reflector and diffuser was used to form the light beam to a certain shape. In modern cars the same is achieved either through ingeniously formed reflectors or lenses, which can even be oriented in some higher-end vehicles. In all cases, the beam is shaped in a way that the upper part is cut off or redirected downwards, the same for the outermost left part for left-hand drive vehicles (right part for right-hand drive). I wanted a simple solution which can be applied by everyone with the least modification to the EUC, especially if you still have warranty on the device. So what do we need? The EUC (obviously), it's software or phone app, some electrician's tape, a wall perpendicular to the ground (ideally a bright color, but not necessarily) and 6-10 meters distance to this wall. Preparation: power up your EUC and your app and make sure that the inclination of the pedals is set to your liking. Step 1: switch on the headlight and move your EUC the closest possible to the wall so that you see the light spot on the wall and have just enough room to tape a chunk (20-30 cm) of electrician's tape to the wall. The tape should form a horizontal line. The lower edge of the tape should be aligned with the upper limit of the light spot. Step 2: reverse from the wall, put a maximum of distance between your EUC and the wall in a way that you can still clearly see the limits of the projected light circle (6-10m should do) as well as the previously installed tape. Step 3 (base version): tape a piece of electrician's tape of 3-4 cm length horizontally over your EUC's headlight in a way that the upper limit of the projected light circle is cut and the limit corresponds to the lower limit of the tape strip on the wall. Step 3 (improved version): tape a piece of electrician's tape of 3-4 cm length over your EUC's headlight inclined to the side where opposing traffic usually comes up, i.e. inclined to the left for countries with LHD cars, right lane traffic and inclined to the right for countries with RHD cars, left lane traffic (in the UK and Commonwealth). Taking the example of the LHD version, the lower cut of the light beam (on the left) corresponds with the lower edge of the tape strip on the wall. I attached a small PDF file to put some images to these steps for your convenience. The improved version has the advantage that you still can see further in front of you, better anticipating your surroundings at night (pedestrians who want to cross the street, ...) as opposed to the base version where you only see what's on the road. I have tested both, I am more at ease with the improved version on our dark countryside roads. No more complaints from upcoming traffic so far. An even further improved version would need to cut the tape to shape, more or less a 'H' shape without the upper left and lower right dash for countries using LHD vehicles, right-lane traffic (without the lower left and upper right dash for countries using RHD vehicles, left lane traffic). I haven't pictured this as the idea came later on. Well, I hope that this first technical post of mine was understandable and will be of use for you. If any questions, comments or further improvement ideas don't hesitate. EUC headlight antiglare mod.pdf
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First: Changed the headlight SMD with about 80 Lumen(right) to 300 Lumen(left) output. The new one is the same like the SMD from Cateye Volt300. Forgot to make pictures before and after. Unfortunately... But it's really bright right now Now I just hope the heat dissipation works well enough Second: Add some SMD to the backlight. Second picture is the original LED strip. Third pic with the modification.