h3X Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 I'm about to throw my wheel in the garbage because the wheel doesn't stop going flat. How do you convert it to tubeless? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Purchase a tubeless tire, tubeless valve, and tubeless sealant. Drill the valve hole larger to fit the valve, and use a compressor for the initial fit. Or just use Slime or other good quality sealant. Depending on where the puncture appears, it could be all you need. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) 25 minutes ago, h3X said: I'm about to throw my wheel in the garbage because the wheel doesn't stop going flat. How do you convert it to tubeless? Are you sure that going tubeless is the answer to your problem? I would think that if you had problems keeping air in it, it would be easier to use a new tube. If the tube keeps going flat, maybe theres something in the tire causing it? Personally, I think its much LESS gamble to have a tubed tire hold air, as its pretty easy to swap a tube and costs less than a tire. Tubeless tires can be a little finicky about sealing on the rim or the valve stem sealing in the rim as well. Tubeless is one answer, but it really shouldnt require such excessive efforts to get a tube to hold air. Just check the rim for abrasions and use an old tube to cut a rim strip. CHeck the tire on the inside for any wires or stickers or thorns, and use a new tube. I feel your pain, but i thiink a new tube installed correctly, is the safest and easiest 'fix'. If the tire has a major flaw, youll want a new tire too, but you shouldnt need replace a tire on a tubed wheel, until its shredded or out of tread altogether. Edited July 7, 2020 by ShanesPlanet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3X Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 I bought a new tube and checked rim + tire for abrasions. The new tube lasted one day, and the new puncture happened in a new location on the tube. I repaired the hole with a patch, but the air tunneled out. I tried covering the patch with epoxy, but that was a stupid mistake. I changed back to the old tube and filled it with tire foam (not slime, which is unavailable here). That lasted nearly a week. It has a slow leak, and when I was going to work this morning it was flat again. I've seen some rubber inserts that replace a tube in bicycle tires, unfortunately it doesn't exist for my wheel since it is in the kids' bicycle size (16). All suggestions are very welcome because I'm at my wit's end with these punctures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Forget tire foam and other stuff you can get locally. Buy “Goop” from Ebay.co.uk, and clean the valve threads after installing. Stock up on tubes until you find a solution. Make sure you buy the right size and type. This is not a common thing, so there will be a solution! How much pressure do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3X Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 I have a spare, new, tire that I'm going to install. I just bought five tubes from the same brand, as well as sealant (schwalbe blue doc), which apparently is for both tubeless and tubes. I usually ride on 65 psi which is the max printed on the tire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibbles Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) woah 65 psi sounds like waaaaayyyyyy too much Edited July 7, 2020 by shibbles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delmeekc Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Yep, I ride as follows, 14*2.125 at 45psi, 14*2.5 at 35psi and 18*3 at 22psi and weigh 90kgs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3X Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) When I fill my tire, I pump it to the top end of the specification and then inevitably let out a little air when removing the pump from the valve. I'd estimate the actual pressure to sit between 55-60 in the first few weeks after topping up. I prefer higher pressures than most wheelers because I do a lot of jumps and don't want the tire to bottom out and push the tube into the rim, or squirm when cornering hard. By keeping a high pressure, the pressure sag takes longer time. The worst thing about it is vibration transfer into my legs. It might increase the probability of a blowout, but all my punctures have been pinholes. Edited July 8, 2020 by h3X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) 20 minutes ago, h3X said: When I fill my tire, I pump it to the top end of the specification and then inevitably let out a little air when removing the pump from the valve. I'd estimate the actual pressure to sit between 55-60 in the first few weeks after topping up. I prefer higher pressures than most wheelers because I do a lot of jumps and don't want the tire to bottom out and push the tube into the rim, or squirm when cornering hard. By keeping a high pressure, the pressure sag takes longer time. The worst thing about it is vibration transfer into my legs. It might increase the probability of a blowout, but all my punctures have been pinholes. Wow, thats a lot of pressure. I'm not sure thats the problem tho. You MUST have something in the tire (some grit) or old tube, burr on the rim, something.. (are the holes on the tube on the tire or rim side?) These are little different than millions of aluminum rims on bicycle tires with tubes in them, all over the world. If you get another flat, air it up and spray it with soap water. Look for bubbles. Mark the tire. If you dont see bubbles anywhere but around the tube valve or rim, it may be something between the tire and tube and the tire hasnt been punctured. Clean the tire on the inside perfectly, and clean the rim. Feel for ANY imperfections on either. You're just having bad luck. Seriously, its just a tube a rim and a tire. Be sure to fill a new tube in stages... 10psi, let the air out.... 15psi, let the air out....25psi, let the air out, etc... While you do this, you are not only ensuring the tube doesnt get twisted, you can watch and help adjust the tire bead for an even seat. DO NOT buy solid type tubes, it will hurt you and the euc. Tube patch repair kits are only thing that works to repair very well. At such high pressures, you better patch it well. Be ready to clean a LOT, if you use some kind of slime and end up having to repair anyhow. Edited July 8, 2020 by ShanesPlanet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3X Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) The first hole was on the tread side, opposite of the valve side. The second hole was on the rim side, also about 180° from the valve side. I washed the inside of the tire as well as the rim with soapy water after inspecting them and running my fingers over to feel for abrasion. Edited July 8, 2020 by h3X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) If you air up the OLD tube, does it seem porous? Ive seen tubes get old or made so cheaply that they just fall apart or leak. Run a scotch brite pad over the rim and perhaps wash the inside of the new tire and scotch it too. Air up the new tube before installing it, and just look to see if it seems good, as it gets big. Install it and MAYBE see if you can run a little lower in pressure? Is this a new wheel for you, or did this problem just happen all of a sudden? As always, careful you dont pinch the tube and try to not use a sharp screw driver to install. Edited July 8, 2020 by ShanesPlanet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3X Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 It's my Inmotion V8 which i've ridden a little over 2000 km by now. The tube is the original Kenda that came with the wheel. It doesn't feel porous. When I install the tube I use plastic tire levers and only on the last few inches of bead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 20 minutes ago, h3X said: It's my Inmotion V8 which i've ridden a little over 2000 km by now. The tube is the original Kenda that came with the wheel. It doesn't feel porous. When I install the tube I use plastic tire levers and only on the last few inches of bead. Thats quite a few KM. I'd bet a new tube and tire and youll be fine. At least you can know you got some distance outta the old one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro.man Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 The only time I had to repair a puncture (small nail) I decided that I do not want do it again and added the sealant right into the tube. So far, so good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro.man Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 Running tubeless might have another benefit, you will have less rolling resistance and won't have "snake bites" on low pressures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetricUSA Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 This might the absolute trick on getting tubeless!!! I have a large slit in an old tube, and definitely going to give it a try if I ever find a tire for 18xl... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 23 hours ago, MetricUSA said: This might the absolute trick on getting tubeless!!! I have a large slit in an old tube, and definitely going to give it a try if I ever find a tire for 18xl... Why though? What are you hoping to achieve? That trick helps if the tire bead keeps leaking air. But I never before heard that to be an issue on tubeless EUC installs. The issues why I always recommend to stay away from converting an EUC to a tubeless system are: - Large amount of work with very little if any gain. - Requires permanent modifications to the rim to fit a tubeless valve. The trick on the video makes one do without if one uses a Presta valve, but it won’t fit on any EUCs. The trick might not work with Scrader valves since the valve stem isn’t tightened against the rim and is free to move about. - The trick costs one new tube and the extra work it requires for every single tire change. - To make the initial seal, a high pressure compressor is basically a must have. - There we’re no clear improvements in the ride quality when I converted my V11 to tubeless. - A tubeless system is useful only if you’re constantly having to repair snake bites on the tube. With the motorcycle tires we’re now running, snake bites are extremely rare to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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