Bagheera Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 I have an euc that is some type of IPS euc that has been branded as a monowheel by a swedish company that doesn't exist anymore. It has started jerking after a crash and is not rideable anymore. I really wish to get it back up and running, I could really use some advice. I made a post in the IPS section, but it seems dead there. More details in that post: If anyone could give me advice how to find the problem and fix it I would be very grateful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 4, 2020 Author Share Posted June 4, 2020 Here is a video of the problem when I have taken it apart, it is jerking the same when assembled. After jerking a bit the wheel becomes locked and wont rotate freely, jerking if you tilt it back and forward. https://youtu.be/g3W20Iowocg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, Bagheera said: I made a post in the IPS section, but it seems dead there. More details in that post: I have no experience with this ?rebranded? IPS wheel and this "error code". As this seems quite old (?about 1st generation EUC?) this could be true for most other members here? Only thing to say is that on connector is not connected in https://ibb.co/YR733bG - but this is trivial and you should have seen, too? Ps.: You are sure about the 12 cell battery - would be a very uncommon configuration. Edited June 4, 2020 by Chriull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 4, 2020 Author Share Posted June 4, 2020 10 minutes ago, Chriull said: As this seems quite old (?about 1st generation EUC?) this could be true for most other members here? Yes I would believe that is true, it very slow, 10km/h I think. 12 minutes ago, Chriull said: Only thing to say is that on connector is not connected in https://ibb.co/YR733bG - but this is trivial and you should have seen, too? That is the buzzer, because of the error code it buzzes constantly, so I disconnected it. Which was fine, used it like that for a few weeks. 13 minutes ago, Chriull said: You are sure about the 12 cell battery - would be a very uncommon configuration. Pictures of the charger that came with the euc. https://ibb.co/VLQrgZ7 https://ibb.co/vjRbgG5 I saw a video about calibrating an euc that had the same body but different circutboard, I can't understand if there is a calibration feature on mine. Saw a video about mosfelts that could be broken, tested mine when they still where on the circutboard, they seemed fine, but I am not 100% sure that I did it correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 I ordered some new mosfet and I am planing on replacing them. First time when the EUC got the jerking error I was driving off road on some roots, sometimes it did not have enough power to get over the roots, which usually ended in me falling off and the EUC going crazy and started jerking. During this moment when the EUC gives full power but the wheel doesn't move could hurt the mosfets I guess. After that the EUC become normal after a few minutes, I used it for a few more rides everything seemed normal, then the last ride before it started jerking I felt a tiny bit of jerking during normal cruising on road. After 40 minutes of resten in the car it did not want to work more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 jerking, "hall sensor deffect" ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 18 hours ago, Cody said: jerking, "hall sensor deffect" ? Those 5 smaller cables coming from the motor I guess? Any idea how to test them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Bagheera said: Those 5 smaller cables coming from the motor I guess? Any idea how to test them? One wire is supply voltage (?3.3V or 5V?, probably red), one is ground (0V supply, probably black) The other three wires are the outputs of the hall sensors. The should give depending on the wheels rotational position a signal according to their 120° shifted position. (?Could be that they have open collector outputs and need pull up resistors to measure anything?) Edit: here are (somewhere...:( ) detailed reports of hall sensor analysis and replacement ... Googling site:forum.electricunicycle.org hall sensor brings many (hopefully usefull) results... Edited June 8, 2020 by Chriull 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuweng Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Could it be the classic loose axle nut or loose motherboard that causes these jerking ? Suggestion to MOD to may be start a sticky post at Mods, Repairs, & DIY as a simple guide for troubleshooting or links to solution post as i've seen various different solutions to various different problems & also same problems/ solutions repeated & scatter all over various posts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 35 minutes ago, yuweng said: Could it be the classic loose axle nut or loose motherboard that causes these jerking ? The motherboard was not loose when I took it apart, I haven't noticed that the wheel/axelbolt would be loose as well. I am going to check the hall effect sensors when I get back home in a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 i think more to the hall signal, than the axe, when it's the axle, tou can ear metalic noise and you see it spinning "small angle, softly" if it's thats hard, it's mostly because controler LOOSE position of Motor... [it can be mosfet internal short that ocur too / or electrical wires shorts ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 On 6/8/2020 at 6:29 PM, Chriull said: Googling site:forum.electricunicycle.org hall sensor The links I checked did not help me at all, so I gave up on finding hall effect info on this page. Found some videos on YouTube that help a bit. Not sure what voltage my hall effect sensors should have. I tried with 5v and got some reading which seems to indicate that they are fine. Here is a video of me doing that test: Today I received the mosfets, so I am going to give it a try replacing all 6 of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Hum 5v is not fine or bad... you seed to 'Plot' each sensors for an whole turn of the wheel while it's powered at differents speed [and use an small fuse or a bulb to be safe] Sometime reading by hands are fine, but when motor is powered, the current inside motor can lead to fault results in hall sensors... & then fuse burn/ electronics melts, or simply, you fall ;3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Cody said: Hum 5v is not fine or bad... you seed to 'Plot' each sensors for an whole turn of the wheel while it's powered at differents speed [and use an small fuse or a bulb to be safe] Not sure how I will be able to do that, my wheel wont turn at all with the original electronics, if I had some other blushless motordriver then that could be possible, but I don't have anything else. Now I have replaced all the mosfets, but I forgot to put som plastic stuff that where between the screws and the mosfets, so it shorted when powered on. Poped the new mosfets. I have tried replacing those that Poped, but now I am not sure if the new ones are the same as the old ones, or that all of them got damaged from the first shorts circuit. However it seems as if one of the original mosfets was shorted when I tested all of them. Now I am gonna try to buy new mosfets that are hopefully the same and replace all 6 again and not short them. I bought 10 mosfets, during my 3 different tests, it has always ended with exploding mosfets. I am not so experienced with this kind of stuff and I am still learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Original mosfet https://ibb.co/CKxjtPk New mosfet https://ibb.co/km9F1N0 Anyone know where I can get replacements? I tried googling the number but didn't find many selling. Especially in europe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 10 minutes ago, Bagheera said: Original mosfet https://ibb.co/CKxjtPk New mosfet https://ibb.co/km9F1N0 Anyone know where I can get replacements? I tried googling the number but didn't find many selling. Especially in europe. The number is p75nf75 and they should be nicely available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 19 hours ago, Chriull said: The number is p75nf75 and they should be nicely available. So the rest of the number are not important? Then if they are the same, I would assume that something else is broken 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 1 hour ago, Bagheera said: So the rest of the number are not important? Yes - the rest is just some batch number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagheera Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 I have given up on this repair. I got a friend to look at the circuit board and after that I can't come up with other ideas what to do with it. I killed it with the short circuit after replacing the mosfets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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