Rywokast Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) just got the monster V3 84V 2400 Wh (newest version with dual headlight) and noticed when i plugged it in shortly after the charger turned green,, i just thought it must have come fully charged which was weird (the ten rear tail lights were also all lit up indicating full charge).. but when i opened the app to change the settings around i noticed it was not fully charged, it was only at 79.3V, first thing i did was try another known working charger... same thing, said it was full.. its always fun having to crack open a brand new wheel but after taking out the hundred screws on the side panels i tested all three batteries because my assumption was there must be one or more dead cells in the pack(s) but alas all read the exact same 78.6V, i double checked to make sure everything was connected properly and put the side panels back on. tried going out for a little bit and taking the battery down ~10% and then charging it back up, but it stopped charging at precisely the same point as before... anybody have any clue as to why this would be happening? Edited April 28, 2020 by Rywokast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) aww man, son of a BI**H! That is one sexy and expensive beast you have there. I've been eyeing them for a little while. Whats the voltage coming out of the charger(s)? Fingers crossed, this HAS to be something stupid simple, as I'm feeling your pain. Maybe it's just a balance issue that'll sort itself thru charging? You've already tried the only things i can think of. Maybe leave it on charge for hours, regardless of if its green or not? Ship it to me and I'll test it for a few thousand miles? Edited April 28, 2020 by ShanesPlanet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 1 hour ago, ShanesPlanet said: aww man, son of a BI**H! That is one sexy and expensive beast you have there. I've been eyeing them for a little while. Whats the voltage coming out of the charger(s)? Fingers crossed, this HAS to be something stupid simple, as I'm feeling your pain. Maybe it's just a balance issue that'll sort itself thru charging? You've already tried the only things i can think of. Maybe leave it on charge for hours, regardless of if its green or not? Ship it to me and I'll test it for a few thousand miles? I haven't checked but I've used three and they all work I have lots of eucs so it's not the chargers.. it's not a balance issue as I've tested each battery pack,, would take about ten years to balance charge it on green at 79V lol.. something is telling it to stop charging but I have no idea what Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xorbe Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) You're gonna have to check the voltage on all 20 cell groups (in 3 separate packs!) effectively. Each one should read 4.17-4.20V after full charge. Either a dud group, or a dud BMS, is my guess. Sadly the way you checked wouldn't spot the problem. Bad pack is 19*4.2=79.8V ... and good pack in parallel is 20*3.99V=79.8V ... see the problem? So the bad pack groups hit 4.2 early compared to the two good packs, and charging stops. Edited April 29, 2020 by xorbe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I would disconnect one battery and put it on a charger while still in the wheel.It won't take long to determine which pack is faulty.The faulty pack is preventing the other 2 from charging up to full voltage.At least with 2 good packs you'll have a 1600wh Monster until u can fix or replace the bad one. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 1 hour ago, xorbe said: You're gonna have to check the voltage on all 20 cell groups (in 3 separate packs!) effectively. Each one should read 4.17-4.20V after full charge. Either a dud group, or a dud BMS, is my guess. Sadly the way you checked wouldn't spot the problem. Bad pack is 19*4.2=79.8V ... and good pack in parallel is 20*3.99V=79.8V ... see the problem? So the bad pack groups hit 4.2 early compared to the two good packs, and charging stops. what are the chances that all three packs would have an identical reading of 78.6 though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xorbe Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Rywokast said: what are the chances that all three packs would have an identical reading of 78.6 though? 100% since they are connected in parallel? 1 hour ago, Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" said: I would disconnect one battery and put it on a charger while still in the wheel.It won't take long to determine which pack is faulty.The faulty pack is preventing the other 2 from charging up to full voltage. Ooh clever idea. Edited April 29, 2020 by xorbe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 7 minutes ago, xorbe said: 100% since they are connected in parallel? Ooh clever idea. ah, yes.. duh lol.. idk why I was thinking that the one bad pack would show differently since obviously when the bad pack stopped they would all stop haha.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 well luckily I didn't get this one from China.. I don't have the tools to deal with this shit and im definitely not shelling out for another battery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) This kind of thing pisses me off to no end. Maybe its unfair of me to wish they would check this shit and do a burn in test on EVERY wheel before leaving the factory. Some form of testing to check charging systems and load management. Maybe some kind of rig to let the wheels run for 100 miles at varying speeds and loads in the factory. You shouldnt have to do ANY of this. You buy a new wheel and it should freaking work. Its slowly becoming apparent that the consumer is having to pick up the slack, where the manufacturer left off. Or this hassle gets passed on to the retailer. Perhaps I'm asking too much, or perhaps these things go bad just sitting in a storage room waiting to be sold. I dont know, but at $2k or more for something (especially something a BITCH to ship), I'd surely expect to NOT have to own ANY damn tools, to use it. Right here is why I worry so damn much about buying a wheel at $3k thats mostly batteries. Best of luck man, I REALLY hate this for you. Glad you didnt shop from ALI now aint ya?! Fwiw, i paid barely over $2k for my car and its hasnt left me stranded in over 12 years and 200,000 miles. The EUC manufacturing bar is set MUCH lower and its total bullshit. Edited April 29, 2020 by ShanesPlanet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 20 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said: This kind of thing pisses me off to no end. Maybe its unfair of me to wish they would check this shit and do a burn in test on EVERY wheel before leaving the factory. Some form of testing to check charging systems and load management. Maybe some kind of rig to let the wheels run for 100 miles at varying speeds and loads in the factory. You shouldnt have to do ANY of this. You buy a new wheel and it should freaking work. Its slowly becoming apparent that the consumer is having to pick up the slack, where the manufacturer left off. Or this hassle gets passed on to the retailer. Perhaps I'm asking too much, or perhaps these things go bad just sitting in a storage room waiting to be sold. I dont know, but at $2k or more for something (especially something a BITCH to ship), I'd surely expect to NOT have to own ANY damn tools, to use it. Right here is why I worry so damn much about buying a wheel at $3k thats mostly batteries. Best of luck man, I REALLY hate this for you. Glad you didnt shop from ALI now aint ya?! absolutely... this is completely unacceptable and beyond ridiculous.. I paid 4400 dollars for this it's not some cheap toy.. and yea now I'll have to pack up and lug this 70 lb thing to the post office because they have absolutely no quality control.. no wonder it's been so long since I've bought a gw wheel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 and how the hell is someone expected to ever work on this.. looks like someone squeezed half a tube of toothpaste all over the board, wires just going everywhere, no spark arrestor so you damage it every time 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) I was a tech for years and a VERY OCD one. It may be irrational, but you are showing me exactly what I was worried about with GW. I spent a LOT of extra time at work, meddling with cable management, rewiring engine bays, basically everything. I was methodical and in demand for my insistence. Usually people dont see what is under the hood. But, when people do (some of us are tech minded), they really equate cleanliness and order, with quality. I opened my KS wheel and it was a little more comforting than what i saw in my GW wheel. Now Im not saying that this OCD cable management and extra thought in layout, has much to do with performance. BUT, I am saying that its no doubt a good sign when a company bothers. I mean hell, if they make it look good and put it together properly everytime, they probably did a better job of the rest of the process. I may be unfairly biased, but I'm not even NEAR as on the fence about getting a monster, as I was. I want a wheel that doesnt look modded, until AFTER Its been modded. One that works would be nice too. Sometimes the difference between quality and scraps, is mere PENNIES difference when purchased in bulk. Imagine how nice it would be to see quality metal screws in ANY euc made. Im sure it would be a whopping increase of $2 per unit made. It would be amazing to see quality boards. Connectors with built in locks instead of the cheapest common denominator? Solder alone on a vibrating part was NEVER considered a mechanical connection in my book. I guess with enough glue....How many versions of monsters need made, before it stops looking like something I put together in my basement with a glue gun and pliers? The proof IS in the pudding tho. Once you get this straightened out, youll have a wheel in a class of its own! Edited April 29, 2020 by ShanesPlanet 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 13 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said: I was a tech for years and a VERY OCD one. It may be irrational, but you are showing me exactly what I was worried about with GW. I spent a LOT of extra time at work, meddling with cable management, rewiring engine bays, basically everything. I was methodical and in demand for my insistence. Usually people dont see what is under the hood. But, when people do (some of us are tech minded), they really equate cleanliness and order, with quality. I opened my KS wheel and it was a little more comforting than what i saw in my GW wheel. Now Im not saying that this OCD cable management and extra thought in layout, has much to do with performance. BUT, I am saying that its no doubt a good sign when a company bothers. I mean hell, if they make it look good and put it together properly everytime, they probably did a better job of the rest of the process. I may be unfairly biased, but I'm not even NEAR as on the fence about getting a monster, as I was. I want a wheel that doesnt look modded, until AFTER Its been modded. One that works would be nice too. Sometimes the difference between quality and scraps, is mere PENNIES difference when purchased in bulk. Imagine how nice it would be to see quality metal screws in ANY euc made. Im sure it would be a whopping increase of $2 per unit made. It would be amazing to see quality boards. Connectors with built in locks instead of the cheapest common denominator? How many versions of monsters need made, before it stops looking like something I put together in my basement with a glue gun and pliers? The proof IS in the pudding tho. Once you get this straightened out, youll have a wheel in a class of its own! exactly my thoughts.. if I'm spending this much money already as if I wouldn't shell out even another few hundred dollars to get something that doesn't look assembled by a 12 year old.. pass the cost on nobody cares if they have to spend more for quality.. KS and IM wheels are a delight to work with in comparison,, its hard to even tell wtf is going on when you open a GW wheel lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 2 minutes ago, Rywokast said: exactly my thoughts.. if I'm spending this much money already as if I wouldn't shell out even another few hundred dollars to get something that doesn't look assembled by a 12 year old.. pass the cost on nobody cares if they have to spend more for quality.. KS and IM wheels are a delight to work with in comparison,, its hard to even tell wtf is going on when you open a GW wheel lol Get it sorted out and I hear that theres this odd thing that happens when you cruise around at 35mph on a 20" wheel. I believe it all becomes worth it and your past troubles get forgotten Thanks for sharing your plight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rywokast Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 1 minute ago, ShanesPlanet said: Get it sorted out and I hear that theres this odd thing that happens when you cruise around at 35mph on a 20" wheel. I believe it all becomes worth it and your past troubles get forgotten Thanks for sharing your plight. haha,, well I very much don't want to ever ride an euc that can't charge but for the short ride I did do on it it's like speed doesn't even exist, as smooth and effortless at any speed you think you're going 20 kph but it's actually 40 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Martin Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Did you ever get this sorted out? My monster V3 just started having this exact issue. It will not fully charge. Gets to about 88% and then charger goes green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwent1 Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 On 7/30/2020 at 5:42 PM, Jim Martin said: Did you ever get this sorted out? My monster V3 just started having this exact issue. It will not fully charge. Gets to about 88% and then charger goes green Ugh. I'm having the same problem with a V5F. Sure would be nice to have a little more visibility into the BMS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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