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Ninebot ES2: Error 18 and Electric brake / motor issue

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Hello !

I have the Ninebot ES2, with additional battery. It's been running fine for about 200km now, i just started running into issues :

- The first one is the infamous "electric brake kicks in when the headlight is on", which i reckon can be fixed quite easily.

- The second one is weirder. When i get close to the 30km/h max speed, the engine start to act up. It stop accelerating, seems like it's really struggling, and then it just stops. I have to turn the scooter off, wait for a couple minutes, turn it back on. And most importantly, i have to stay below ˜22km/h, otherwise i get the issue again.

- Now, the scooter won't start anymore. It beeps, and gives out error 18 on the screen :( 

Is there a solution ? I'm confortable soldering / replacing parts, i just don't know which one ...  

 

Thanks a lot ! 

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Error is 18 is that wire below the controller and battery are having issues and you need to take apart the unit and look at those wires, check for wear and tear. you might have a short on one of the 3 main wires, the yellow, Blue, Brown. (could be different colors, depending on what manufacture date is )

as for the rest, the symptoms tend to point to the controller board and could be the main fuse is failing (common problem) . This fix is not for casual people, you will need to remove this item and then resolder a replacement . This 'B' item is a high-speed 125 mA self-resetting fuse.  This degrades over time and needs to be replaced.

when you turn the light on it causes more power draw and causes this to constantly set and reset, slower speed and lockups on getting to hot

You could just build a solder bridge across the points, but this will increase your chances of a complete controller board burn-out. Its has been done and it will work but you really should order the replacement fuse and solder that. You will need long pointed tweezers to get this one off the board.

 

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Edited by ionbrain
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Hello.

Where to buy this fast acting fuses ? Or maybe try to replace it with a bit higher acting current ~150-200mA ? 

Regards,

Tomek

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I have the same issues, but it’s ridiculous to change a fuse every 150 km. I have the additional battery installed and obviously then it fails much earlier.

my scooter doesn’t even have a failure code, it’s just not powerful at all anymore and the motor doesn’t keep a constant speed when the wheel is free spinning.

Edited by Captainkirky

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you will have to look for SMD (surface mounted) fuse with the high-speed 125 mA self-resetting fuse online or at your electronics store and yes you can go higher, after all some people just build a soldier bridge and keep riding until the whole board is burnt. ( This does depend on the temperature of how hot you let the unit get)

but its also was installed so there would be a person needed to repair and replace the unit. (Product security or always needing new parts)

 

 

 

 

Edited by ionbrain

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Hello. 

Thank You, but if somebody here try to replace this fuse with other type (less prone to degeneration - different manufacturer or current) I'm interesting in result of this. 

Yes we know that bridge of it (0ohm, no fuse) still works, so maybe replacing this fuse with one with a bit higher current = less often acting, not damage the controller and simultaneously extends degradation of this element (if this is direct reason of malfunctioning of the controller).

And maybe somebody share source of those elements - I try to found any, but I''m not sure about type:

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/resettable-ptcs/surface-mount.aspx

No identical elements on aliexpress or ebay ... or my bad searching.

Regards, and thank you for information (twice ;)

/Tomek

 

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Well I replace them with this if I have the time, otherwise it's a soldier bridge. Hope this helps

 

The Chip Specs are 0.063W 0603 0 Ohm, 5%, Chip Resistor (SMD)

PartNumber: RC0603JR-070RL

Installation smd 0603

Nominal resistance 0

unit of measurement om

Accuracy,% five

Power rating, W 0.063

Working voltage, V 50

Operating temperature, C -55 ... 155

Body length L, mm 1.6

Width (diameter) of the housing W (D), mm 0.8

 

 

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Hello,

So I bridged the resistor, but then I noticed that there were blown up circuits on the back side of the board. I tried to fix those with solder but when I wanted to connect the battery I had a massive spark so obviously something is shorted. Maybe a FET is shorted? I'm not a specialist.

Now I can order a new control board and have to replace the battery connector.

Does anybody know where to get the genuine board? Does it work plug n play?

Thanks

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Well the soder should only cover thee FUSE and the next resistor in a single line

if you got a connection on the Brown resistors then yes it would blow the whole circuit since your crossing the power supply lines

and forcing the full voltage around your bridge ( the aluminum back panel ).

At this point you could order from Amazon so you have the ability to get a refund if the unit is not a genuine.

When you get the part you will get errors because the EEROM is not in sync with the BMS EEROM or the Dashboard EEROM

you will need to be quick on the bluetooth activation to get the update firmware option from your phone to fix those issues and you will be good to go.

I do recommend taking your scooter completely apart and getting it to work in pieces on the floor before reassembling it and trying to have a go at it.

This is because you will have to disconnect the Controller from the battery a few times to clear out cache values and you will also need to set phone to Airport mode to clear out its cached values and try the whole process again and again until it syncs all the EEROMS

Segway has just release a 2019 update to the firmware which makes the scooter limit the speed to 20 K as a default now.

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