maxkan Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Hi, I've got an incident today. I had to replace a tire. After that the wheel worked for around 5 mins and then stopped at the middle of the ride. When I try to switch it on it turns on OK if vertical but if I tilt it back or forward it starts saying "please repair". Android app is showing "motor hall signal error". I'm in NYC area and I bought the wheel 2 weeks ago only... I had plans to ride it to work every day... Could you please suggest the next steps to make it work again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post WARPed1701D Posted July 20, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted July 20, 2018 1 hour ago, maxkan said: Hi, I've got an incident today. I had to replace a tire. After that the wheel worked for around 5 mins and then stopped at the middle of the ride. When I try to switch it on it turns on OK if vertical but if I tilt it back or forward it starts saying "please repair". Android app is showing "motor hall signal error". I'm in NYC area and I bought the wheel 2 weeks ago only... I had plans to ride it to work every day... Could you please suggest the next steps to make it work again? I'm guessing you didn't connect the hall sensor cable back to the control board properly or a wire was damaged in the process of repair. I think you'll need to open it up again. Trace all wires coming from the motor and ensure they are connected to the board properly. Report back. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxkan Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 There are 4 cords, from what I understand 3 for power and 4th is the control one.. They are all attached, and the order of power cords are the same as in this picture from youtube: blue, green, yellow The actual photo of my board That's the main drawback of the electric unicycles. Flat tire in 3 days.. really? I need to disassemble the whole thing to change a tube... what?? And to make it even more frustrating: It does not work after you assembled it back. Someone need to come up with the design that does not require disassembly to change a tire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Keith Posted July 22, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) 58 minutes ago, maxkan said: There are 4 cords, from what I understand 3 for power and 4th is the control one.. What it is telling you is that the problem is with the 4th one - the multiple wires going to the white plug. If the error statement is correct, one or more of those wires is not making contact properly or has a break in it. 58 minutes ago, maxkan said: That's the main drawback of the electric unicycles. Flat tire in 3 days.. really? I need to disassemble the whole thing to change a tube... what?? And to make it even more frustrating: It does not work after you assembled it back. Someone need to come up with the design that does not require disassembly to change a tire. That is why there is so much discussion on this forum about using Slime, or similar, in the tyres so as not to have to dismantle the wheel. Everyone who does so seems to be reducing the incidence of punctures by a very big percentage. In fact, from the surveys we have done in the past it does appear that EUC’s are much less prone to punctures than bicycles. Arguably you could say the odds go down by 50% just by going from 2 wheels to one, but I also think it is easier for the rider to see and avoid many gotcha’s like bits of broken glass. I would fully agree though that that aspect of the design, especially on such an expensive product could be so much better. All the power and Hall effect wires tend to enter the wheel on one side so the only thing that is in the other case half is - or should be with a bit of thought - a battery which typically has a simple XT60 plug on it for power and a Deans plug or similar for charging. They are easy to connect/disconnect. It REALLY should not be difficult to design the wheel such that one case half comes off easily or even just a circular section covering the tyre such that a tyre can easily be repaired or replaced. Edited July 22, 2018 by Keith 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WARPed1701D Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Your wiring configuration matches mine so it is certainly wired up right. As @Keith said the problem is related to the multipin connector. Try removing it and reseating it. Check for anything in the terminal connections that may break the contact. Inspect the wires very carefully for damage. Where did you buy it from? I would now speak to your reseller about repair/replacement options. Unless you can repair a cable break outside of the hub then the option to fix this would require a whole new motor assembly and even then it could possibly be a mainboard issue. eWheels sells the necessary parts if you decide to go this route. You could also contact Inmotion USA for a repair quote but they may not be able to assist if you purchased this through questionable channels. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post maxkan Posted July 24, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 24, 2018 I wasn't able to respond yesterday because of message limit. (? it was just 3 msgs) I bought the wheel at amazon.com. I've contacted Inmotion support. They offered me to 1) replace a motor (good option) or: 2) send a replacement motor for me to replace it myself. (I'm not sure if it would resolve the issue so a bit questionable) I opted for option 2) being optimistic, because its less expensive for them.. We'll see how it goes 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxkan Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 They shipped me the engine. Subtotal $151.80, Discount WARRANTY PART - $151.80, priceShipping $3.18 Delivery time around 3 days 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxkan Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 Ok... Reporting: I've received the replacement motor today. It came with the new tire on it. Yes, the problem was in the motor or its connectors. I tested it for 1h, smooth riding, no issues However during the installation it turned out that new power connectors are slightly longer than old ones. By 1.5-2 mm or so. As a result control board lid is resting on them when its put in place. Also I cannot properly screw one side out of 4 because of that... Do you think it makes sense to reduce power connectors using grinder for example? Or should I just leave it as is? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WARPed1701D Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I would contact Inmotion to ask them about this. It seems odd. Are they all impacting the cover? Note on my V8 one of the connectors is at an angle. Maybe due to clearance problems? Are yours all upright? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxkan Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 They are all upright, I feel that they all impacting the cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WARPed1701D Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I would contact Inmotion again. Let them know the deal. The last thing you want is one of these falling off because of a bad fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxkan Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 I forgot to report: I contacted inmotion again. Here is the response: "It's okay to bend the 3 contacts very slightly in order to get the lid to fit. Be sure not to use too much force or bend it back and forth." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mono Posted August 19, 2018 Share Posted August 19, 2018 On 8/2/2018 at 3:49 PM, WARPed1701D said: I would contact Inmotion again. Let them know the deal. The last thing you want is one of these falling off because of a bad fit. The good thing about the design is that they can only fall off after the cover has fallen off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soc101 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 (edited) Similiar boat. The v8 will not start up & have tried the battery cycle waited the 3 mins. All connections are tight, euc has over 1600 kilometers. From the pic looks as if the soldering at the bottom of the unit is starting to discolor/corrode/wear down & with some white spots (wiped most of it away think it was from all the heat melted off the silicone sealer . Some visible heat discoloration on the inside of the plastic control panel cover direct across from the three green, blue, yellow wires. Died during this samd slide attempt the second one . got my 2nd v8 control board covered under warranty as it was brand new thats the first one in the video. Edited August 24, 2018 by soc101 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uppuddle Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 I had this problem with my v8f. It was clicking and beeping while I was riding it and when I got off it wouldn’t self balance and kept saying “Please repair”. I took a look and found that the control wire from the motor wasn’t in plugged in all the way. It’s the wire that plugs into the board coming from the motor with the phase wires. The plastic clip must have gotten loose while riding. This fixed the issue for me and runs fine now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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