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WARPed1701D last won the day on May 25 2018

WARPed1701D had the most liked content!

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About WARPed1701D

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    Veteran Member

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  • Location
    Saint Petersburg, FL, USA
  • EUC
    Inmotion V8

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  1. Bridge crew is awesome but being an introvert I've not had much chance to play others which is really how it should be played. I need to join one of the online groups where people sign up to play seriously rather than get randomly matched with a load of weirdo's. There is too much going on for one person to do all roles and while you are supposed to be able to issue verbal orders to NPC Bridge officers from the captain's chair, the speech recognition (powered by IBM's Watson) isn't accurate enough. I recently got a licence for the wife to play too out of VR but not tried it yet. They recently released an expansion that includes TNG bridge and related missions. I need to try that next as the reboot (Chris Pine) bridge and TOS bridge are not really my thing. Doom VFR got some questionable reviews. Instead I've played Doom 3 BFG edition with the community developed VR patch and that was incredibly good for a community driven port. I spend much of my VR hours in Elite Dangerous. Next up I want to get the wireless adapter and then a Vive Pro. So much money.
  2. Check that your wheel is in fact 100% charged before use. A large number of chargers have been going bad and putting out voltages below normal resulting in less charge in the battery to start with. If you have a voltmeter then check the charger output is around 84.6v. Otherwise use WheelLog to see your battery voltage after a full charge and ensure it is in the 84v range. Also check tire pressure. Lower pressures will significantly reduce range. Finally ask yourself if you are riding faster/harder than you used to initially. That will make a dent in your consumption. I get around 23 miles maximum (to 0% battery) from my V8 in an area with no hills, warm temperatures and a fully loaded rider weight of 170lbs. So most people will get less miles than me.
  3. Isn't Tampa Bay great! Wishing you a speedy recovery. The risk of car impact is why I wear full body armor beyond the usual knee and elbow pads including full back protector along with under garment padding for shoulders, ribs, sternum, clavicle, tail bone, sit bones, hip and thigh. Trust no one.
  4. Another vote for a Mini Pro. While slow speed riding of an EUC can be fine it is more challenging. You can stop entirely on a mini pro if you want. I know we want to promote EUCs here but I honestly don't believe it is the best option for the OP.
  5. It is by G-Form. ProX Shirt and Shorts. Elite Knee and Elbow pads. You can now get the Elite knee pads with shin extensions which I would likely have got had they been around when I brought it all, although I think the shin combo doesn't have the additional ring of protection around the upper/side knee . I just call it the Bat Suit. It goes under my clothing so as not to draw attention to all the protection by either the public or the office staff when I arrive at work.
  6. It's a pain in the arse but it will go back in. Spit (literally) and perseverance is your friend. You could try a dab of dish soap but when I did mine I was concerned about the long term effect of that on the rubber.
  7. Did you calibrate it properly as shown in this blog post? It should be sitting on its rear bumper. https://www.myinmotion.com/blogs/news/v10-firmware-update-2-2-7 I imagine a bad calibration may make it think it is tipped over and so won't activate the motor.
  8. @palachzzz Nice work on the new update. I wanted to provide feedback on the voltage output. It seems very accurate so far. After several full drain/charge cycles that I monitored using a Charge Doctor and PC I calculated and then set my CD to charge to 85% of cell capacity (this is 85% of the full 480Wh capacity and so includes the 60Wh of capacity we cannot use as it is below minimum InMotion shutdown voltage). Usually this results in a reading of 100% in Wheelog/Inmotion apps post charge as the cells were abovew 82.5V (InMotion 100% value). After applying the Wheellog update I noticed that this morning's reading after charge (and a 30 minute rest period) was 88%. This is much more in line with my calculated cutoff amount and therefore much more accurate. The extra few percent shown in wheellog can be directly attributed to the fact that I'm sure you rightfully ignore the unusable capacity that I accounted for. Also, probably related to the adaptive sample speed, my phone (OnePlus 5T) was quite hot when I got to work this morning (Wheellog generally doesn't heat my phone up). I'm guessing WheelLog is working it harder. I didn't notice significant battery drain but where there is heat there is power draw. Maybe the adaptive sample rate should be an option so that people on long rides do not end up with a depleated battery in the phones. Great work!
  9. I think Stan is getting a bit confused between comments. The OP doesn't have a charge doctor it sounds like he just has a wall timer so his wheel isn't on the charger all night. This need not be to do with anything as complicated as charge limiting (especially as he is trying to get to 100% charge). It sounds like the guy just doesn't want his wheel on charge unnecessarily which is wise move given the recent video of an exploding Scooter battery. @Proflee This is very likely a charger problem. Not fixing it will not be a big deal to start with but may cause problems over time as the battery charging circuit will not enter balancing mode which ensures weaker batteries in the pack get an additional boost to bring them up to the same charge levels as stronger cells. By not balancing the weaker cells will just get weaker until they cause the pack to shutdown prematurely. This could happen unexpectedly while riding so there is some concern there and really you will need to address it at some point for your own safety. If the wheel is less than a year old try to contact the last owner to find out where he/she brought it from and ask the reseller to get you a new charger under warranty. If that is not an option then you can buy one from a reseller yourself and hope that it is indeed the culprit. If you want to confirm the charger is the issue before spending your money then you will need a voltmeter that goes up to 84v DC. Simple ones can be purchased quite cheaply and measuring the voltage is simple if you wish to do so.
  10. This is likely a faulty charger. Inmotion chargers have been dropping like flies lately. To confirm the fault you will need a multimeter to measure the output voltage at the charger output plug. It should read in excess of 84v (mine is 84.7V according to my Charge Doctor) across two of the pins. Yours will likely read less if the charger is at fault. If this is the case you will need a new charger.
  11. Above 5kph the button is disabled. Below that it will activate and stop drive to the wheel. This is to facilitate quick pickup while walking without stopping. Forward riding doesn't generally cause a problem as you are almost always over 5kph but learning backwards I'm sure you are within the threashold much of the time and risk the issue faced by the OP.
  12. Given KingSongs history of under/overreading correct battery voltages I'd be inclined to measure the battery output voltage direct at the connector to confirm if this is another instance of incorrect voltage reporting on the mainboard rather than a battery BMS issue.
  13. I think this is great for all round cranial protection while cycling but for EUCing I am not convinced it will offer such great protection in a face plant as a solid helmet would. The way you fall is radically different and I think that soft shell would push backwards allowing your face and nose to impact the ground. Better than nothing, yes, but maybe not the best for our use.
  14. You need to be careful with Wheellog's naming conventions as they aren't consistent. For the V8: The InMotion app reports "Mainboard Temperature". In the live Wheellog screen this is reported as "System Temp" but in the Wheellog CSV it is recorded under the "Battery Temp" column (all data locations showed the same numeric value). Looking at my ride to work this morning in 30C ambient temperature (having left a 24C house) this value remains very constant only slowly creeping up from 25 to 40 degrees over my 20 minute ride with no erratic changes. For the mystery value the Inmotion app has nothing. The real-time screen in Wheellog shows it as "CPU(?) Temp" but the CSV records this value as "System Temp". Note the inconsistency seen in the naming of the two temperatures (CPU, System, and Battery is used and System can refer to either value depending on the way you read the data (live or CSV) so caution is needed when reading the values). Looking at my ride in this morning (detailed above), this temperature started out at 30C and peaked at 47C towards the end. This temperature change, while showing a trend of increasing, was more erratic and jumped up and down by up to 5C between readings less than a quarter of a second apart at times. I don't see a correlating surge of power to account for the heat increase which is odd and would be expected if this were heatsink/MOSFET temperature. It should be considered that given that there is a large amount of communication between the InMotion BMS and the mainboard this could indeed be a battery temperature (as suggested by a wheellog column title) but I cannot understand why the temperature would fluctuate so much if that were the case. I imagine these cells would retain heat and take more than a 1/4 second to gain multiple degrees given my load was quite low (500W general consumption). Perhaps @palachzzz can chime in on the data sources and might want to fix the naming inconsistency between the live view and the CSV.
  15. Search the video thread for the recently posted video of a scooter bursting into flames. If you want a front row seat of a similar event then go ahead and buy practically the same charger. Or heed the advice here and do not deviate from specification.
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