Elwood

I just got a master, have a Nik+ and a V8f, and I just changed the master tire to street, so this interests me. In my thinking, something more or less stationary isn't going to "rip" off. I think through some deflation event, or just riding at to low a pressure, the tube isn't pushing the side wall of the tire to the rim hard enough, and the rim spins inside the tire, and rips off the stem. If pressure is low enough to let the rim spin inside the tire, tube or tubeless probably won't matter much. Since tons of people ride around on the bigger tires (16x3 and above) at psi's in the mid 20's to low 30's, that seems to be enough to hold the tire to the rim in most cases. I think he got a leak, or started out way to low, and hit the failure point, and went down. I imagine that the bigger tire spinning at 35mph has a crap ton of inertia (scientific term), and a little breaking would put a lot of force on the grip of the tire to the rim. All empirical of course, the stem could have just "ripped" off. Another thing is he sprayed the tire down with bullsnot mounting lube before popping it on. No idea if that stays slippery or dries out. The wipe out happened a few weeks after he installed it.

I came up with a new theory last night while riding. It charges to 134.4, but when you turn it on and everything gets charged, you lose about 2/3's of a volt. If I check it, and come back and power up and check it again, it drops like you mentioned by about the same amount. As long as I keep hitting the 133.6, I'll assume it's all good and carry on. Thanks for the replies.

Got a new master, topped it off 4 or 5 times, darkness bot shows 100% at 133.6 volts each time. Is this most likely a off calibration, or am I losing close to a volt from the charger? I don't actually need the volt, but I don't want to go unbalanced due to the bats never receiving a full charge. If it's always 133.6 is it fine? Just wondering, don't wanna buy a special charger and do each pack, if it's actually getting full and just reading a bit off. Thanks for the replies.

If you're getting a wheel with a large battery pack like commander Pro or EX30, and you ride maybe 15 or 20 miles max, and don't push over 35 or 40 mph for brief periods of time, does it matter (or could you even tell) if you have 50E or 50S batteries? There seems to be fairly good deals on these wheels with the 50E batteries. Thanks for the replies.

I got mine for a 2019 Nik back in June. Just need proof of disposal. A couple of emails, then just the Fed Ex wait.

I've got a Nik+, and after a couple hundred miles I find I'm riding in the upper 20's low 30's mph. I'm old so I don't want to go sliding and bouncing across the pavement so I researched and played with settings to avoid that. Seems like the Nik will safely do 33 to 35 ish even down to around 20% battery. I set tilt back to around 20mph and got a feel for it so it won't surprise me when it happens. (Gotway tilt back is way more gentle than my V8F, you just smooth into it), then set tilt back to 33mph in darknessbot. Beeps are impossible to hear with wind around the 30 mph mark, but feel still works good, lol. I have the new eWheels batteries, and I can't tell any real difference in them compared to the old. The way I ride I never get much above 30 something amps or 70% pwm in darknessbot, I use full gear, even put a bike helmet mirror on my Bell Adventure ( one of the best things ever for riding on streets, I think), keep the battery over 30%, and barring electronics failures, I should be safe I think. This may seem lame to the daredevils, but I think the majority of riders might be like me and in that 45 to 60 year old range. We're so much more brittle, lol.

I got the new batteries from eWheels for my 2019 Nik, keep it in the basement surrounded by concrete, but no longer cover it in the fire proof kiln blanket like before. I think if things are operating normally, there's cause for optimism that things won't firebomb you. If things aren't normal in any way, get the bats out and put 'em in a metal trash can or something until you figure out what you're gonna do. These companies are running decent sized businesses for numerous years, so the volume of sales has to be fairly high, and the number of fires seem to be like below 50 or so, most with circumstances; I'm more likely to die pushing the speed limits than my wheel catching fire. These things are so stupid, yet utterly amazing, lol.

Got mine installed on the Nik tonight, walked out of the basement for a test ride, and it was pouring rain, lol. Fairly easy to do; could have used a few more inches on the speaker wire for the controller side. Crazy customer service on the ewheels side.

Never mind, think I found it in the forum. Thanks

The screw that locks my pedal rod in place worked its way lose and fell out, and I can't track one down on the internet. Is this some standard thing used in other applications? Anyone know the size?

Just ran across this, not sure what he means; seems like a fuse blew and the batteries that had the connection killed were fine, and the bms killed the rest of the cells? Since it's all about the batteries, some one might find it useful. https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/26868-msx-pro-bricked-m50-packs-and-fried-controller/

I have no idea what you guys are talking about. Is my Nik+ gonna blow up in my basement if I'm the kind of rider who never tops 30mph street riding? I never let the batts go lower than 40 %. It rides so darn good

I bought a used ewheel nik a few months ago, think it was a 2019 version. Only had 175 miles on it, charges fine to 100v, dream to ride, even came with one of the covers, never dropped, probably never ridden hard ( with only 175 miles, basically brand new tire and no body dings, so probably no board replacement). Hard to decide if it's problematic or not. I guess second owners will still be in if there's a recall, not sure how it would be sorted out or notified. For the "it was just sitting there and burned up" stories, it seems that's rare without some previous problems. That Swedish msp guy in the wrongway vid comments added that he smacked a building, blew the board, replaced it, then two weeks later " it just burned up". I used to build fpv drones and had a few of them burn up with shorts, but that was the soldering learning curve; if they lasted a few flights and survived a few ground bounces, things worked fine. There has to be 1,000's of niks out there of original stock ridden all kinds of ways not burning up. I'll just not let the bat go below 40%, charge to full each time, alarms at 25 mph and 25 amps so I know where I'm at. Sit by it when charging, store in the basement wrapped in a 2100 degree ceramic blanked and keep on trucking.

There's a 1 by 24 by 60 ceramic fiber blanket on amazon for like 50 bucks. Think I'll get one to wrap the wheel in storage, and just sit close while charging

I changed my stance a bit today, and it made all the difference. I was doing Mickey's offset to avoid wobbles from his vid's. I moved the back foot up more forward and it locked the whole thing in tight. Hit 26mph without any squirreling effect. Actually made everything more steady. I'll bump the tire up to 34/35 and see how that goes. What a difference a inch or two makes.