Zombie Batman

There's a new EUC group in Reston Virginia. We got a website. https://restoneuc.com/

I started on an E+. Newer wheels feel firmer and react to balance you quicker. The the hardest mode on the E+ is still 10 times squishier than soft mode on a modern wheel. I've go back and ride my E+ sometimes and find it is nearly unridable. Once you get used to a performance wheel the E+ feels like a death trap.

This tool helps change the visor on a TSG Pass helmet. This tool is about as effective as using a quarter. But it has more contact area and it doesn't scratch the finish on the screw. This is not an original idea of mine, but I couldn't find an STL. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4856368

Blue Skies

Never. It's too much work to make something like this. The price would not be reasonable.

I built an infinite tail light for my Sherman. I'm really happy with how this project turned out. It's made from a 3" PVC pipe. Two rows of LED strips are glued to the inside walls of the PVC pipe. A mirror in the back reflects light to the glass in front which is treated with a one way window film to get that infinite mirror effect. The LEDs are controlled by an LED controller which is power by the 3.5mm tail light power source. The mount was built from a hyco bar; which was cut, bent, and the corners ground down. Version 2 of the Infinite Tail Light has some improvements. The control board is now an Arduino Feather running custom patterns. The metal mount is now secured with 3 bolts. The control board now also controls an outer ring of LEDs and two external LED strips which run on the sides of the wheel. The trim piece and tail cap are now 3D printed. The 3d printed cap is much stronger than the version 1 cap. Version 2 also includes bluetooth and wifi. It can be reprogrammed wirelessly. The tail light is powered from the rear light power source. There are three contacts on the 3.5mm power connector. The tip is 5 volts. The middle contact is 1 volt and is used in the stock light for signaling. The base contact is the ground. There is a limit to how many amps can safely be pulled from the wheel's tail light jack. I do not know what that limit is but I think this mod comes very close to that limit. I've found that while in motion, with the front light on, pulling any more than 3.9 amps in the tail light will cause the front light to blink off momentarily. The good news in that the Sherman engineers appear to have delivered a robust power supply. When I pulled 4 amps the wheel did not smoke, and the wheel did not shut off on me; the head light simply blinked off momentarily. For this reason the code limits the brightness of the LEDs to 75%. With that fix in place my tail light with the two side LED strips draws a maximum of 3.1 amps which seems to have fixed the issue. Care should still be taken with this mod or any other mod that uses more than 2 LED strips. There is a danger of damaging the main board if too much power is drawn. It may be better to use a separate USB battery pack or some other power solution. Materials: 3" PVC Pipe https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-3-in-x-2-ft-DWV-Schedule-40-Foam-Core-Pipe-PVC-04300-0200/202018043 LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDTE6Y6/ One strip is needed for the tail light. Two more strips are needed for side lights 3" Acrylic Circles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087C1YCMX LED Controller (choose off the shelf or Code your own with an Arduino) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YW6PP41 https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spled.ppze&hl=en_US&gl=US https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCRYHDL 3 pin LED cables https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBSH4CA 3.5mm right angle headphone cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RYPJ49R Hyco Bar (for the bracket) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-5-8-in-x-18-in-14-Gauge-Pipe-Support-Hyco-Bar-33535/301505433 One way windows film https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PY23G8B There is enough silver here for 100s of lights. I don't know where to get smaller sheets 3" Mirror https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T56PLJQ Cap (version 1 used a off the shelf cap. version 2 used a custom 3d printed cap) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-in-PVC-Pipe-Test-Cap-with-Knockout-39102/100122751 3D Printing STL Files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4851652 Arduino Code: The code is a work in progress. But here is what is running in the second video. Album of Build Photos: https://imgur.com/a/DymLDUa

Yes! That is exactly what I'm doing. But nothing is ever simple. Be very careful with how many amps you draw. The buzzer is run from a single tiny CPU pin. It can only supply 40mA and many wheels are already drawing very close to the limit with 30mA buzzers! If you draw too many amps the main board can have a fault and the wheel stops balancing.

I take it you mean how reliable is the connection. All wireless device can run into problems with interference. I use 433Mhz ASK with a 20bit identifier. I've found it to be as reliable as the two bluetooth connections needed by EUC world when riding in downtown DC. But its not an all or nothing sort of thing. I ride with my ExoBuzzer, EUC World bluetooth alarms, and the internal buzzer. EUC World requires two bluetooth connections, one to the wheel, and one to the speaker. Bluetooth has its share of bugyness. But, for me at least, I've found the Android audio system to be a bit more buggy than bluetooth. With the wrong app running in the background, I can miss audio alarms or navigation prompts from the GPS navigation. But audio bugs and RF interference still pale in comparison to human error. And there are many chances for human error. I have to remember to charge my phone, and have bluetooth enabled, remember to take my phone off vibrate, and remember to set the volume high enough, and then clip my bluetooth speaker on my backpack, oh wait, where is my backpack?, now turn on the speaker, is the speaker charged (I can't remember), connect the phone to the bluetooth speaker, and start the EUC World app, and finally make sure EUC World connects to my wheel. If I miss a step I can miss an alarm.

That would be cool. I'd defiantly want to see a demo. If you build it, I would probably want to buy one from you. You and I are solving different problems. I see more than enough room for both. To get the speed you'll need your own GPS or use a phone's GPS. I'm interested in knowing if I am at the wheels limits; which is not exactly the same thing as speed. On Gotway wheels, the app has to make a guesstimate of when to sound the 80% alarm. My setup intercepts the beep as it is triggered by the wheel's firmware. As I understand it, app based solutions can not do that for many types of wheels. The ExoBuzzer setup triggers within 1/20 of second on a beep. The phone/bluetooth solution is, at least in practice, much slower. Any Bluetooth and app based solution can never be faster than a round trip through your phone's bluetooth stack. If you add in a dsd6 (depending on how you implement it) you may even need two round trips through the bluetooth stack before you hear, feel, or see an alarm.

I have no website yet. I am Jason Macpherson. You can order by DM either on this forum, facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100014010919350), or telegram (https://t.me/JasonMacpherson) It comes as a DIY kit. The transmitter box needs to be installed inside of the wheel. It works on all Gotway wheels, and the Sherman. I make three models. I posted images of the Terminal and Mirror models above. The third model is the "Unibrow". Depending on your helmet you might choose one model over another. The Unibrow will not work with a flip up visor. The Terminal works with motorcyclecle helmets, and allows for the most customization, but requires you to run some wires. The mirror model is great because you cannot ever miss the LED light. Personally I ride with the mirror. $200 Unibrow Receiver with a transmitter. $200 Terminal Receiver with a transmitter. $240 Mirror Receiver with a transmitter. $90 for an extra standalone transmitter (so you can install a transmitter in other EUCs) Orders typically take a week to build and ship. More photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RD9VLFQ1HxXBFBShmfpo9plp1Dpqx3Qf?usp=sharing

I build a version that is integrated into a mirror as well. It works really well. I can see the LED well and never miss a beep.

I build wireless devices that works with haptic feedback motors, lights, and buzzers. There is a transmitter that is installed in the wheel. Whenever there is a beep a little box mounted on the helmet beeps too. I'm building a model called the "Terminal" which has wire terminals. It can be wired up with a LED light or a vibration motor, or another buzzer. I've tested it with all sorts of feed back mechanism. Putting the haptic feedback motor on my skin behind my ear worked well. But I prefer to just have it all mounted to the helmet. A helmet dampens the vibrations of those little motors. So I current ride with a LED light and a buzzer mounted on my helmet. It works great. I used to have trouble hearing those beeps.

I love EUC World. I setup my wheel to Quack. All sounds file came from freesounds.org Sound files: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1LAyJmauKGvG6P9c8J2W967jTT4R_Z6n6?usp=sharing Avaspack: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FCz1F3urTQizL3mn9LcuzQP-83o4DhOu/view?usp=sharing

That is my motivation as well. I want the actual alarm generated by my wheel.

That's what I've done. I've built a wireless alarm to be worn in a helmet. It works great on my wheel. The problem I now face is that different wheels may (or may not) vary in buzzer voltage and the polarity of the buzzer connector. Short of buying every wheel and testing it myself, I was hoping that others might know what voltage their wheel's buzzer runs at. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9AcjCJJVHLuFw2Cn9