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InMotion V14 riders : Share Your Tips, Tricks, Modifications, Upgrades, Hacks, Setups & Feature Requests


Kmil

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10 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

good reasons, all of them. I wasn't saying not to use it, i was just saying in my opinion its overkill. Did you also use it to attach the pads to the fairing plate?

Nope as once they are fitted then I am not moving these. Also since the Velcro is preapplied I didn't bother to remove it. 

The plates had dubble adhesive tape so I just placed the 3M dual lock on the sticky part (and left the adhesive alone). But this makes it easy to remove the plates and to lock them back on place. It has this nice clicking sound as it interlocks.

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4 minutes ago, Kmil said:

Over the moon about my custom V14 seat bracket design! After 1 month and 500km+ of testing, including hill rides, a 70km trip, and off-road adventures, I'm more stoked about this than when I first got my V14!

1_SH_seat.light_ti.photo_2024-06-04_00-50-36.thumb.jpg.2936a0b98e25fbbcfc9bb6e7ea43b313.jpg

seatGroupPgHillphoto_2024-06-02_15-26-44.thumb.jpg.c441afd98878f41c40ae752e98be0ac8.jpg2pgHillGlass.photo_2024-06-04_23-23-03.thumb.jpg.367ac12f4e4f31597af7960089fd54ea.jpg1pgHillGlass.photo_2024-06-04_23-23-20.thumb.jpg.3450577d6cc7bb9d2e8d1bc9b8496611.jpg

The comfort and support are a total game-changer.

For those who like seated ride, could consider getting a bracket like this. Can put on any saddles, and then fine tuned your own seated ride position :D

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22 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

The rim/tire is bolted to the frame by 8 bolts, those eight bolts remove the rim/tire. In order to be able to slide out the tire you need to undo the clips on the wire so you have some slack. In order to do that you just unbolt 1 battery (you don't even have to disconnect it). You don't need to remove the pedal hanger,you don't need to remove the other battery, you don't need to remove the battery lower bracket. Just the 8 central hub bolts and 1 battery so you can unclip the motor wire for some slack. No you aren't disconnecting the orange motor wire just undoing a few clips  that hold the wire against the frame. There should be enough (slack) st that point to remove the rim/tire from the frame so you can change the tire....with the wire still attached to it.

So undo the 4 bolts in the center and flip the wheel over and undo the 4 on the other side then flip it back and slide out the rim/tire

Thanks, I have successfully removed the wheel.  It was actually a bit easier for me to unscrew the batteries instead of ripping off the adhesive.  I guess the orange wire doesn't detach at all?  On my V11 i had removed the wheel part all together and my local bike shop was able to replace the tire - so I guess that's not an option. Is there a guide on how to change the tire on the v14, I've never done it (not a bike tire either).

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19 minutes ago, miketunes said:

I guess the orange wire doesn't detach at all? 

It's detachable but much more work and you don't have to. Here is a vid from our own @mrelwood who hasn't been on for awhile unfortunately but i thinks it's most helpful for tire removal. The tire removal starts at 3:45 and he gives good tips like using dish washing liquid for lubricant. And making sure the opposite side of the tire you are trying to pry is sitting in the drop center of the rim. You can use a dish wahing liquid and water combination, i wouldn't use it straight because you want it to dry up and not be slick ounce you are done. I'd go 90% water 10% liquid. Make sure you are using tire spoons and not flat head screwdrivers to remove the tire, do not push the spoon any more than 1/2" into the rim area or lift the spoon any more than 90° because you can puncture the tube easily. Second to last when mounting the new tire mount one side first then stuff the tube inside and inflate it just a tiny bit so it wont fold and pinch when you seat the other side of the tire bead. Lastly make sure the tire is evenly spaced all the way around before inflating it. If it isn't even it will wobble, if it does just deflate it fully and try to even the tire up again the re-inflate.

PS: make sure the wire faces down on something that won't harm it and remove the tire from the top

PPS: if your having to use a ton of pressure to pry the tire then the opposing side is not fully sitting in the center of the rim.

 

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Posted (edited)

Inmotion just released an update on their app adding a new option called Dual Battery for the v14 . Does anyone have an idea what is ?  Does Inmotion add somewhere to read what all those options do ? I find hardly anything about all these things.  How change the suspension etc. Ive seen one Video from someone else how to change tyre and i saw this Vid from Ning how to fix the sliders on batch1 but thats about it. 

Edited by LuckyV14
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Hey there! Does anyone know where I can buy V14 shell, handle, protective cover (don’t think it exists yet, after asking around). I’m a newbie and have scraped, dented, chewed up the plastic, and peddles already. I live in Mtl, QC, Canada. Thx!

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3 hours ago, Capra said:

Hey there! Does anyone know where I can buy V14 shell, handle, protective cover (don’t think it exists yet, after asking around). I’m a newbie and have scraped, dented, chewed up the plastic, and peddles already. I live in Mtl, QC, Canada. Thx!

I think spare parts are easiest to come by at Ewheels or any other big EUC dealer in the US since you are in Canada. 

I asked Roll.nz about a cover design for V14. But they are not planning to design one. Others might do it but I have not seen it. 

So the other option is to add foam as in the old days with adhesive double tape.

This is from when I started on my first EUC a Inmotion v8.

5aacd574a9e04_foamsuggestion.jpg.4c1e9ef07b57c681bf9501d765fc7066.jpg

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Posted (edited)
On 6/4/2024 at 6:34 PM, Punxatawneyjoe said:

It's detachable but much more work and you don't have to. Here is a vid from our own @mrelwood who hasn't been on for awhile unfortunately but i thinks it's most helpful for tire removal. The tire removal starts at 3:45 and he gives good tips like using dish washing liquid for lubricant. And making sure the opposite side of the tire you are trying to pry is sitting in the drop center of the rim. You can use a dish wahing liquid and water combination, i wouldn't use it straight because you want it to dry up and not be slick ounce you are done. I'd go 90% water 10% liquid. Make sure you are using tire spoons and not flat head screwdrivers to remove the tire, do not push the spoon any more than 1/2" into the rim area or lift the spoon any more than 90° because you can puncture the tube easily. Second to last when mounting the new tire mount one side first then stuff the tube inside and inflate it just a tiny bit so it wont fold and pinch when you seat the other side of the tire bead. Lastly make sure the tire is evenly spaced all the way around before inflating it. If it isn't even it will wobble, if it does just deflate it fully and try to even the tire up again the re-inflate.

PS: make sure the wire faces down on something that won't harm it and remove the tire from the top

PPS: if your having to use a ton of pressure to pry the tire then the opposing side is not fully sitting in the center of the rim.

 

Thanks for the advise, I have the tire successfully changed. I believe I have the shock done too, but I have a few leftover rubber washers.  Do you know where they go?  And FYI for anyone else, you don't need to drill out the plastic inserts on the original shock - you can pry them out, they are split in the middle.  

20240609_130020.jpg

Edited by miketunes
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I'm not quite sure if I did the shock right.  I took out all the air and I'm verifying it can move through the entire travel, but it doesn't seem to move up anymore.  Only down.  I believe the sliders should go down when I pick it up.  Any ideas on what to look for?  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EhTE4kC49brqC8Aj9

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36 minutes ago, miketunes said:

Any ideas on what to look for?  

Try pumping it up, it looks fine just not pumped up. Think it causes a vacuum when lifted if not pumped up and it's holding it from dropping down.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Try pumping it up, it looks fine just not pumped up. Think it causes a vacuum when lifted if not pumped up and it's holding it from dropping down.

I tried 100psi, but It won't lift higher.  I took pictures of with the shock and without, with the shock I can't move it to the top like I can without.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/gPndZ8z5BM9kQ51N8

Edited by miketunes
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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, miketunes said:

mine seems is locked, doesn't move at all

The picture on the right looks correct with the shock in it and pumped up. The one on the left with the shock disconnected would only compress like that in a jump. The one on the left is max compression. In other words even with 100 psi it looks pumped up. I am currently running 300psi.

Edited by Punxatawneyjoe
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I don't have enough physical force to push the piston in any more to reach the hole.  That's what it's trying to do when I pick it up.  Sounds like that is normal since i would only be used landing a jump?    20240609_160842.thumb.jpg.3d5efde5c49fbb9aac6d0c04aff99948.jpg

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17 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

The picture on the right looks correct with the shock in it and pumped up. The one on the left with the shock disconnected would only compress like that in a jump. The one on the left is max compression. In other words even with 100 psi it looks pumped up. I am currently running 300psi.

Thanks, I think I have it right.  How did you calculate the Sag - would that be 30% of the 85mm wheel travel?  Or 30% of the 55mm/2.25" shock size?  Did you use any volume spacers?  

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, miketunes said:

How did you calculate the Sag - would that be 30% of the 85mm wheel travel?

I didn't, I'm 195lbs i pumped it up to 250 to start and tried it then 275 then settled on 300. For me it's "probably" 30% sag of the 85mm wheel travel . I just wanted it to be smooth off road and able to not bottom out on some small jumps. Finally got to take it for a trail ride yesterday and it definitely seems much more swirly than my v13 but overall it is super fast and powerful. I couldn't get any beeps out of it on acceleration, it would just burn up the tire until it got traction again.

and no volume spacers

Edited by Punxatawneyjoe
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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, miketunes said:

I don't have enough physical force to push the piston in any more to reach the hole

The force after the linkage is probably 2 to 1 so you won't be able to push it by hand for sure even at 100psi

Also , the black o ring on the shock is to use to determine sag and travel. you just roll it up and stand on it to check sag, when you get off you have a marker.

Edited by Punxatawneyjoe
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14 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

The force after the linkage is probably 2 to 1 so you won't be able to push it by hand for sure even at 100psi

Also , the black o ring on the shock is to use to determine sag and travel. you just roll it up and stand on it to check sag, when you get off you have a marker.

Ok go by 85mm, not the sag distance in the fox manual?  

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2 hours ago, miketunes said:

I don't have enough physical force to push the piston in any more to reach the hole.  That's what it's trying to do when I pick it up.  Sounds like that is normal since i would only be used landing a jump?    20240609_160842.thumb.jpg.3d5efde5c49fbb9aac6d0c04aff99948.jpg

I would release any air that is in the shock and then it will probably compress enough for it to fit.

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